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T4700

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Posts posted by T4700

  1. Yesterday I reversed the polarity on the crank sensor and aligned the trigger cal. The significant 10 deg jump to the right is gone now.

    When I rev up, I can see very very short (short like a flash) jumps of the mark to approx. 20 deg after TDC.

    Except that, the mark is rock stable without a shift. Only short blips to the right.

    I'm not sure if they are really present or if there is something wrong with the strobe signal. Will test this again with my old ECU.

    I can confirm, that the arming voltage has no influence to anything, I can change the values from 1 to 3 V without anny difference and without any trigger errors.

    I only reved up to 4000 rpm...  will test the full range soon - didnt want to provoke my neighbours yesterday ;-)

     

     

     

    Season is over now...  had no time to do further testing. Engine will be converted from Auditrigger to 60-2 this winter, so no more investigations necessary. Thanks again for fast support here.

  2. Yesterday I reversed the polarity on the crank sensor and aligned the trigger cal. The significant 10 deg jump to the right is gone now.

    When I rev up, I can see very very short (short like a flash) jumps of the mark to approx. 20 deg after TDC.

    Except that, the mark is rock stable without a shift. Only short blips to the right.

    I'm not sure if they are really present or if there is something wrong with the strobe signal. Will test this again with my old ECU.

    I can confirm, that the arming voltage has no influence to anything, I can change the values from 1 to 3 V without anny difference and without any trigger errors.

    I only reved up to 4000 rpm...  will test the full range soon - didnt want to provoke my neighbours yesterday ;-)

     

     

     

  3. Hi T4700,

    I don't see any big problems except that 135 teeth is always going to be difficult to work with for most aftermarket ecus - it will only take a very small amount of cam belt stretch or hamonics etc for the trigger 2 edge to jump across to the next tooth.

    I suspect that the odd spike that is visible in some of your scope traces (example below) is probably a software artefact rather than a real problem.  Maybe Link techs will have more experience to share:

    Capture.png

    Have you tried using rising edge for trigger 2? 

    Have you tried swapping polarity on crank trigger?

    I can see the cambelt stretch on Trigger mark, when reving the engine up. The Trigger mark is shifting smooth a very small amount around the TDC mark. Very very small and smooth. But when you go over 3000rpm it is jumping to the yellow mark in one step. If you hold the RPM at the angular point, the mark is jumping forward and backward between those two points.

    No, I dont tried to switch polarity or edge. Will try soon.

    I heard of some 135th cars, running LINK without issues - I hope this will be possible for me too. 

    Seems to be the same issue member "150" described in the top of this topic

  4. After a long break, I got back to my LINK Thunder.
    The car was firing up with the first keyturn and has stable idle.

    After warming up, I was calibrating the trigger with a timing light.
    The OT trigger Offset is -70 deg. Reference timing was set to 0 deg.
    Timing is stable until 3000 rpm. Above that, trigger starts to jump significant degrees after OT.

    Trigger 1 Type Reluctor

    Trigger 1 Filtering Level 1 (LOW)

    Trigger 1 Aiming Threshold

    0 - 0.5

    1000- 1

    2000- 1.5

    3000- 1.5

    4000- 0.5

    5000- 0.2

    6000- 0.2

    Trigger 2 Type Optical/Hall

    Trigger 2 Filtering Level 4 (High)

    Trigger 2 Pullup ON

    Trigger 2 Edge Falling

    Sync Mode Cam Pulse 1 x

    Any Ideas? Wiring and Polarity are checked.

    Picture below are on idle.

    u2yqt99h.jpg

    7iu8vggl.jpg

  5. So finally my good old 5 cylinder 20VT is running with my new Link Thunder.

    OT Trigger is indeed around -70. Maybe ist because of a shift between hall window on cam sprocket and the flywheel pin.

    After doing lots of study and workbench pre-mapping the Link ECU, the engine started up with the first keyturn after 3 seconds.

    For now, I am happy with the first 20min of engine runtime :-)

  6. Hi T4700,

    Thanks for updating your post above.

    Which AL Ign Retard Mode are you using? The Percent mode gives increments of 2, while the other two modes give increments of 1.

    I use Retard Absolute.

    If I type in a value it will allways be -1 lower. -45 results in -44, -20 results in -19 and so on.

    I also tested percentage. If I type in 12 it will be 12, if I type in 11 it will be also 12. So I think this is not an issue like you said.

    But the other two modes have the known "allways -1 issue"

  7. I tested the newest LINK Software (3012)

    I wrote results into my postings above.

    Issues still present -> max 500 kPa in Lambda, Engine Protection and IC Spray.

    New issue in ALS Ignition Table. Now you type -45 and get -44. This was not an issue before software update.

    best regards

  8. Ok I see the link to the bottom of the page is no longer present and there is a third new version of the V5.5.7.3012 Software on the top (first was 42,2, second 57,2 and now 58,3 MB)

    So I will install the new version on the top of the download page now.

  9. Hi T4700,

    This is the current version. When you are on a table view hit the 'H' key to see the colour gradient applied to the table. You can customise the colours used for the gradient under Options > Colour Theme

    Hi Scott,  perfect - thanks

  10. Okay so that's not to say you would potentially need two maps for use with the Link ecu? I'm not getting my hopes up that vvt will make that much of a difference for my application as I realise my build is going to be laggy, but it's Interesting that me7 actually has two maps which is changed depending on vvt position.. The more I read about me7 the more I realise how advanced an ecu it actually is.. 

     

    A massive thanks again, the info is greatly appreciated. 

     

    I dont think you need two ignition maps... you only need two ignition maps if you want to set up the VVT independant from the ignition table.

    For example, if you have two ignition maps, you can play with the VVT switch points an dont have to touch the ignition maps again.

    If you use a two point VVT with fixed two point RPMs you can just use one ignition map. But if you change the VVT triming you have to adjust the ignition map again.

    OEM Motronic is the most complex system I have ever seen - you are right...

     

    If you have retro-fitted the VVT solenoid then you can make use of it, but in any case the factory used VVT overlap more for emissions than anything else

    Nope, there is a significant gain in torque between 1600 and 5300 by camshaft switching.

  11. Full description of the Audi two point camshaft adjustment system can be found in SSP 182...  the cam chain tensioner is an electric-hydraulic combination of two functions.

    Idle = adjustment off

    between 1600 and 5300 rpm - adjustment on 

    over 5300 rpm - adjustment off

    regulation can be seen in measurement blocks and inside ECU code.

    there are also two different ignition maps for each camshaft position and influences to torque control system.

  12. There are a number of ways you could do the water/meth injection using a G4+ ECU, depending on how advanced you want to get. For most installations I think using the GP PWM function would be best.

    This gives you:

    • up to 3 switch on conditions
    • a 3D table on which you can specify two variables as control over the duty cycle (0 to 100%)
    • a 3D frequency table to vary frequency of injection based upon two other variables.

    However I still like Blaines suggestion of a safety table. 

    got it...  thats nice

  13. Great info T4700!

    Is it then possible to "clone" the output signal from the map sensor to get it to work?

    I realise that it won't show the correct pressure when having another sensor than 250kPa but at least it will show something. :) 

    Regards

    Hans

    right, it will not show correct when you use a different map sensor...  the gauge is only a DVM, calibrated with resistors to show the right pressure for a 250KpA. Maybe it can be re-calibrated If getting deep into the circuit and its resistors...  but I never cared about that...

  14. Yes, thats right...  also the old AAN has hall sensor at the distributor dummy...  maybe thats the reason for the offset because Link does not care about the OT pin on flywheel...   on Motronic, the distributor hall window can not be shiftet that way because it has to match the OT pin...

    ...to much motronic in my mind :D

    in a few weeks we will see what happens when my thunder is going into my first quattro...

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