BURGESS.DJ

Hi there would this be the same as Mazda Mzr engine in NC MX5 ? As im having a couple of issues trying to get it to work on that vehicle trying to control the D terminal initially i started with the NB1/2 Plug in config but nothing is making any difference Running FURY X Latest Firmware Thanks

Thank you

Hi I have a question in regards to an old post on this forum I have a bosch 3 wire idle solenoid I will be using for an antilag bypass to intake manifold the ecu is for a subaru v9 wrx sti plug in so the normal outputs for an open closed function are not available and not interested in repinning etc as car will likely be reverted to factory ecu at some point in its life. Anyway on the plug in aux 8 9 and 10 are free through the xs loom on the mentioned post Link Adam added a diagram for a circuit to run a 3 wire solenoid with 1 aux output I'm wondering if this is still relevant for the g4x as this would be the ideal solution as we allready have the solenoid plumbed ready for wiring. Thanks 3_Wire_ISC_with_1_Aux (1).pdf

I just wanted to be sure if someone could just say yes or no I have looked at the st205 and st185 base maps and both settings are the same with cam pulse x1 also

Have wired a g3 Lem to a 4efte starlet With the factory dizzy which has g- g2 g1 and ne pins and have wired as per diagram in the g4 manual for toyota 24 tooth trigger So I'd assume it's a toyota 24 crank 1 cam pickup In the setting have set trig one to 24 teeth cam position and reluctor etc etc Trig 2 is set to reductor sync is 1x cam pulse it starts and runs now on all cylinders for about 4 seconds with only trigger error on cranking Question is looking at the pickup for the cam sensor it's not actually just a tooth it starts as small raise then slowly tapers inward until it fills the void where the cam sensor is then steps to a tooth approx 1mm total then drops back to the small section again after 1 full rotation Is this a suitable pickup for the cam ? and are my settings correct? I have the default arming voltages for the 4age engine in the setting aswell so they should be okay? The pickup looks the same as this picture although the body of dizzy is different

I am on the latest g4 firmware from the website yes idles lower and the direction is correct :s Have got it a bit better winding the throttle open and adjusting target and base numbers to suit but still stalls also on start up after sitting it will review up to 2000 and immediately drop start back and stalls

Hi guys Have the engine all started running and tuned at cruise wot etc etc I have a commodore 3.6 4 wire stepper wired into it for idle control and so far it's been working okay for idle my motor has a light flywheel and whenever I come to a sudden halt or even clutch in when rolling the revs will drop and the motor will stall before the idle control can catch it unless I let clutch out to get the.motor to turn enough to kick it over again and it will idle at the target idle no problem What should I be looking at to fix this as it happens even with a free Rev and it's getting really annoying do you have any base settings I should try to correct this and also a wiring diagram to check wiring I have wired it as per your ls1 stepper diagram on Aux5-8 making the base table number smaller makes idle increase Unsure on clamp.settings either but they seemed to.work so I just left it and the idle resets perfect everything for starting Thanks

Thank you

Just want to check up on something Have wired up.injectors set to multipoint grouped outputs 1-4 selected Firing order is 163254 So I have wired them inj1 cyl1 and 2 inj2 cylinder 6 and 5 inj3 cylinder 3 and 4 is this correct Also when I select multipoint group I don't get an option to select 1-3 outputs only 1-2 or 1-4 1-6 1-8 I was hoping to run the 4th inj output for the cam switched option because I have a v6 commodore throttle body with stepper motor when I originally set this up it allowed me to set it as cam switched now inj4 is locked as injection Is this set up right and can I do anything about inj 4 ?

Thank you for your valuable input now obviously the altezza plug in works with all the systems on the vehicle and everything including climate control works as per oem ecu

Okay what about this the altezza link g4+plug in has the capabilites to run the oem canbus communications where the fury will sort of but I'll still have issues with the climate control fuel gauge etc etc. So run the factory 3sge header plug and connections to the oem harness of communications and chassis functions cut off the engine side wiring and crimp to suit the 1jz loom ? Will this work and the altezza plugin be able to change the trigger pattern to suit the 1jz motor and use the aux ign and aux inj channels 5 and 6 for that motor also being that it's a 6 cylinder not a 4 Thanks

Hey guys looking for some information and experience I am doing an install shortly into an altezza with a g4+ fury and the 3sge is being replaced by a 1jz I would like the dash to work like factory if that is possible I have looked through the altezza plugin can information and it uses a can to bean converter does this mean I will not be able to wire the fury into the can network and make it work with the same values as the plug in version? If not will the tacho and speedo work without the rest of the listed information bring transmitted. ? Thanks

okay that is a good idea NEXT QUESTION the vehicle has a quickcar tachometer which is fairlly common for speedway stuff these work with magneto and all sorts of electronic ignitions and is self powered by a 9v battery http://www.quickcar.com/611-100-Gauge/ same model as this http://www.quickcar.com/product_images/InstructionSheets/611-099_611-100_InstructionSheet 10.pdf will this work with link ecu ? 1 wire is for ground and the other is signal or do I possibly have to use a Pull up resistor from 12v onto the signal wire so it can see a change from 12v to the pulse how it would if it was set up on a dumb coil Thanks

Quick question is it possible to have a trimpot say connected to anvolt 2 when set up correctly calibration 0-10K ohm range in ecu for that input basically so you can use the trimpot to plug into the ecu in the pits for a trimming setting on the programmed function ie ignition timing or boost (not sure yet) and then unplug and keep that setting until next time you plug it in and change again? all without plugging into a laptop i guess by unplugging it the input signal will just go high or low depending on the pull up/down setting reason Im asking is because in the speedway class of racing the car im wiring/setting up is in it does not permit in cabin adjustment while racing even on yellow flag and my customer is not very tech savvy especially with adjustment of the ecu controlled timing or boost settings hence a dial that plugged in to trim then unplugged between races in the pits would be ideal for him obviously a dial mounted out of the cabin would work but i am just wondering if it is possible to unplug and plug in Thanks

Thanks for the reply I figured it out. I did a trigger scope and wave patterns are polarity correct I then recalibrated the trigger and entered a new value into ignition delay this time and pressed enter and it worked. haha. Didn't know I had to press enter while still in the screen.

Fixed got that sorted and works good now another question I wanted to check timing so I did the calibration as per the manual Locked at 10 and it was bang on o no adjustment required there but when I bought revs up to 3500rpm.and held it retarded to 5 degrees I started to enter numbers in to delay and recheck each time larger and larger start at 10 ended at 500 and no change at all The motor is a 1uz with twin distributor running stock coils and ignitors is there a mechanical reason there was no.change at all ?

The idle is 400-500 rpm even after a reset still 400 -500 needs to be at 300 ish for the idle to.come up to acceptable value Does someone have a pinout with locations of where aux 5-8 go for the toyota 6pin stepper otherwise I will try a few different combinations from other ecus but it seems they run with 4 wires only

Have tried this tonight and no improvement changed wiring to another configuration listed on here for an i88 running the same 6 pin stepper on a supra after another user had the same problems wiring is as follows aux output to pin on stepper motor AUX 5 to pin 4 Aux 6 to pin 6 Aux 7 to pin 1 Aux 8 to pin 3 I have confirmed wiring is correct with the larger number on idle base table lower revs When I do the key off and the stepper resets the numbers of the Min and Max clamp values were 50 and 155 where the stepper was not clicking at the end of travel but for the engine to engine to idle correctly the base value needs to be approx. 300 at 80-90C so the clamps need to be changed for this from here I am confused as to why this wont work as when I enter the number to get the correct idle speed I want and then reset the idle is crazy low 400-500rpms again each time no matter what min and max clamp is set to

Do you mean max clamp?

Hi I have recently wired and set up a 1uz with the factory 6 pin idle control Wiring the 6 pin stepper as per manual Aux 5&6 to one set of coils with common 12v and aux 7&8 to the coils I have got the engine running and set the idle base positions map to get a 800-900 rpm hot idle and have set up to run ecu hold power. And checked to make sure it all worked. Whenever I switch off engine ecu hold.power activates and the stepper count drops to zero and pauses for approx 3-4 seconds then rises back to my set number for the temperature of coolant. But when I go to start it again it's at 3000+ rpm but the step count is at the idle number is this what happens when aux 5&6 are around the wrong way? So when it resets the stepper it actually goes the wrong way and ends up thinking it's reset for idle again but it actually open all most fully? Thanks