Rich RDE

Sounds like this is some sort of interference issue. Things are moving around enough during a fast run and then the problem pops back up. I would check connections, pins, and shorts.

If you download PC link you will be able to go to help and find the wiring pin out in there. It will give you a full diagram.

Is this the 60-2 newer RX8 trigger pattern? If so just set to RX8. You can set multi tooth and then in trig 2 set sync as none. RX8 and FD3S reluctors look identical externally but have reversed polarity, this is crucial for proper engine operation.As the FD sensor is installed, the positive pin is on the right side (looking at engine).

You will want to follow this. Are you running an aftermarket sensor of the factory sensor?

The Main purpose of this feature is to control the fuel better when the air is at a slower velocity through the intake system. Some cars have Composite intake manifolds while others have Cast Aluminum type. The air while at slower speed tends to grab the latent heat. This can cause the IAT to heat soak and the values for the correction may start to change as the air speeds up. But the IAT may not always react as fast as we need it to. So we have this algorithm that allows us to manipulate how the ECU calculates the multiplier for IAT and ECT. A higher velocity of air through the intake system (depending on the type) will have a better fuel calculation for charge temp. via IAT as it does not soak as much heat and is more consistent (i.e ECU can calculate the charge temp. much better). When there is very low velocity of air through the intake system. We tend to look at ECT for our fuel charge temp. corrections as the ecu knows that there will most likely be more heat for the Charge temperature. Each car and system tends to be different in the 3D table for this function. I have tuned multiple cars using this and find that in traditional mode. You will see the car no matter how close you get it in closed loop every so often shifting -5 +5 on fuel trim depending on the day. Which is not a bad thing. But when I have done the Modeled equation you can get very close and it is very accurate when setup properly. The only thing I wish we could have added is a little more resolution in the 3d table to change the values of X and Y axis. Especially when tuning twin charged vehicles.

So you are wanting to add some logic here? I think the boys could make this possible but there are going to be many multipliers and factors here. Run time vs knock vs threshold vs RPM vs MAP vs other things. This would be a Knock Learn section. Decay Rates, Learn up and Down values. Interesting! Hopefully I am following what you are asking?

mr2slow Hows it going.... If you are located here in the states where about's? I am the Pro Dealer on the west coast and can help you with this issue. PM me and I can get a quick remote access to see what is going on. Most likely something very simple. Cheers, Rich RDE

Grant, We have setup a few. The biggest hurdle is gathering the data from the bus. Then determining what the math is to control certain functions. I have been doing my research and am excited to try some micro controllers and such to start diving deeper down the rabbit hole. LOL You currently trying to communicate with factory dash or controller? - Rich RDE

Anthony get one a hold of one of the dealers in your area. I am sure they would be willing to work with you and help with some development. I am a true believer in the Link platform and have been starting to R&D jumpers here in the US for all kinds of platforms. Awesome project by the way!!! Very exciting stuff. Good luck. - Rich RDE

David is correct here. You will want to setup internal logging for when it hits certain points or say you are in a range of RPM. Their are many ways to set this internal logging up. happy motoring!

Perfect glad that you got it sorted. I ran into an issue like that on a 1jz. Damn rattly gears. LOL

Hi David, Have you done the cam angle test yet? If I were you I would start there and see what the results are. It is not bad to have no cam timing and to be in the resting position. Try this and let me know the results.

Anthony, The G4+ Thunder seems like it is going to be your choice. Extreme does not offer dual E-throttle control. The Extreme does not have a 3 axis accelerometer. The thunder has many more Aux inputs and outputs to start. It just has all around more of everything! If using on the track and want full control or the decision to expand to more sensors down the road. I recommend the Thunder in your particular situation. Distributed, wasted spark, coil per plug, Boost Control (open or closed loop) , Cam control, 1, 2 or 4 cams, O2 feedback, Pressures, Temperatures,Transmission requirements, Logging requirements Traction etc. These are just some examples of what it does. Lots of amazing features. Cheers, Rich RDE

Grant, I believe it is the same as this diagram. Hope this helps. Cheers

emretunali, It is very hard to get the ABS off as I believe it is on the Kbus side of things. I do know that we can get the CEL, RPM, MPH/KPH, and a few others. I do have some information about this. I believe that the Mini is very similar to the E46 can bus and some of the coding caries over. This would be interesting to compare. Maybe Simon or Scott can chime in. Cheers, Rich

You will always want to verify timing before tuning. Lock@ 10 deg. and then change offset to match crank timing if needed. Hope this helps. If you need any other assistance let me know. - Rich RDE

Hi Smokedogwest, Take these steps and you should be good to go!!

Can you post the problem so we can help resolve this?

NappiBoi, Please email me at [email protected] and I can assist you here. Please provide any additional sensors, what channels they are on, and what coils you are running for the correct Dwell settings. -RichRDE

You can get a base map from the G4+ file folder when downloading the PC Link. Your ECU should have came with a Base Map loaded. Location? Please email me if you need some assistance. Otherwise that will get you going. [email protected] - RichRDE

BUMP this to http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/forum/19-wishlist/

You Can reduce the gain channel which will help dial in the overall knock level. Have a look.

Grant I have a lot of experience with this particular engine. You will want to use 6 kHz as mentioned. In some cases 7 kHz. But you will get the level of feedback needed with a gain of 1. Adjusting per cylinder is needed as well. These engines tend to produce more noise on certain cylinders then others due to design and Knock sensor placement. So monitor this and adjust the cylinder gain accordingly. A typical threshold is set to somewhere around 570 for knock level. You will want to monitor this and adjust to your needs. Each engine differs with internals, fuel, and amount of ignition timing applied. Good luck and stay safe. - Rich RDE

You will need to set to narrow band at 6khz like Grant mentioned. Then you will need to start monitoring the knock level and adjusting gain and threshold. The only real way of setting this up correctly is listening to physical knock. But yes you will want to adjust these parameters to suit your needs. - Rich RDE

Hi hspeck..... These are very non linear injectors and I assume that you will have a difficult time getting these dialed in. SARD / HKS only uses 1.6 ms as a base latency for unknown voltage. They will be a pain to dial in at idle. I have worked with a few of these. They take a little longer then normal. Start with these settings. 11.00v 12.00v 13.00v 14.00v 15.00v 1.94ms 1.78ms 1.62ms 1.52ms 1.42ms You will need to dial this in more. It involves logging STFT and LTFT as well as Average IPW and bit of math and time. Fuel pressure on these injectors plays a huge roll as well. I think that SARD / HKS rates the base @2bar so if you run @3bar you will be changing the values, as this injector is most likely a 845cc injector. I hope this was helpful. Please feel free to PM me or email me for more assistance. [email protected] RichRDE