Rob W

The charge temp table from our WRX11 base map will be pretty close.  The general way to tune the charge temp table is to hold one variable as constant as possible while varying the other one.  On our subaru it was easy with the top mount intercooler, with my intercooler fan off I could just hold it at constant load/speed on the dyno, the water temp would stay reasonably static while the IAT would quickly run away.  If charge temp approximation number is correct the lambda will stay on target.  If it goes lean as IAT increases then you need more bias towards coolant.  I do that at say 6 different loads/RPM's and that gives you a pretty good feel for the trend.
IAT fuel trim should be off.  

You can import the fuel table from our G4X WRX11 base map which is an EJ205 using modelled fuel.  It will probably be a decent starting point.  

Yep, an existing Traditional mode fuelling table won't be much help.
You could however look at one of the existing base maps, from memory the Atom base map is in Modelled Mode, this should get you a rough starting point to get you up and going.

Update on this.
I installed the latest firmware and the issue has stopped

All flex fuel sensors do that.  The signal is a PWM, the Ethanol % is the frequency and the temp is DC or pulse width.  You just set the DI to "ethanol sensor" and both Ethanol % and temp will be available in the ECU.

There is no way to know without being there yourself.  The original explanation of the problem was "What I'm getting is immediate loss of power when I put my foot down" so I get the feeling from that it is not just a problem at peak boost but all the way up.

Without this the ECU will turn off as soon as ign is turned off so the stepper cant re-zero itself.  This means next start up it will not be in the position the ECU believes it to be and will mess up idle control a lot.  So this is the first thing that needs to be fixed before we can really diagnose if there is an idle problem.  As per Ducies advice, 5 seconds will do.  Do us another log after changing this. 
 
Edit, added later:
In both places it nearly stalled the fan had just turned on as it came down to idle, Your fan step is set to 70 (crazy number?) but the idle valve only changed by about 3 steps - did you change this setting after the fact?  Your fan is turning on/off a lot so I would set the hysteresis higher so that doesnt happen as often.  You will want to set the fan step properly.
It looks like overrun fuel cut is also playing a part.  I would either turn it off temporarily to see how much it is interfering or bump up the highlighted cells to about 1800RPM.

In the help file type in Stepper Reset, explains 2 different ways for a reset. 5 sec hold time should be enough i reckon. I would give it a clean first so it give repeatable results.
I would also target a slightly richer AFR at idle until you get the idle sorted .95 is always my start point until i get idle stable.
 

Few things i've noticed
While your dead time are correct you don't have any figures in the SPAT.
You have got the idle stepper reset on key off but don't have a ecu hold time.
 

It cant be done unfortunately (would be nice to be able to I agree).  Most people have a google or onedrive account these days, so the easiest option is often just log into your drive, choose upload file, right click and "share link".  Pretty sure dropbox is the same but if you dont have an account you will need o register etc.  Also, wetransfer is another easy option - just go to the website, click add file, then get link.

Both values are applied live as the operating point moves.

30% eth @9:1 with 70% petrol @ 14.4:1 would give you a stoichiometric ratio of about 12.78:1.
Density will be about 0.758.

Simon, seriously mate, take the Horsepower Acadamy courses. You already seem to have a fair idea what you are looking at. HPA will simplify the whole process for you, break it down into a couple of main areas  and give you the skills and confidence to slowly sort out this nightmare properly yourself. Not only will you gain a fuller understanding of fuel and ignition requirements, all your trims and enrichments, boost set up etc,  they also do full video demonstrations on all aspects of tuning on many different platforms and those videos are available to watch over and over.

I just had a quick look.  There is some pretty odd stuff in there. 
It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content.  Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for?  VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly.  The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position.  That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either.  I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving.  I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested.  If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
 
 

Hope you get it sorted ok mate you shouldn't have too much trouble finding someone in Melbourne

Is the turbo too small? It's not holding boost
There are huge swings in Lambda at cruise from very lean to very rich. Quite frankly Lambda is way off its targets almost all of the time. Probably due to the large jumps in the fuel table between load points. At one point in cruise it is as high as 1.2 (17afr) @3000 rpm at steady throttle. It is also very lean at times in boost like .956 (13.8afr) @18psi. Just two examples of a constant theme.
For some reason it has 2 x Lambda Target Tables on one fuel type.
Generally 2* timing comes out for every 20kpa (3psi) load. Have a look at the ignition table - It's just sitting there in big blocks of the same and higher numbers.
The CLL is turned on with 0 gain and it doesn't seem to be making any corrections although the fuelling needs to be pretty close for it to work well anyway.
Put Lambda avg and Lambda Target together in your logging time plot and you'll see what's happening.
The knock control is turned off so we can't see what is going on there.
 

What engine by the way, Subaru???

Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear. 

Yes, its there for that exact reason it will also mean that Lambda 1 is Stoic.

Thats not really the idea behind hold power. Its supposed to be so you can reset idle solenoids and the like back to zero position. Trying to use it to avoid something like this runs a big risk that if you crank it for too long, the hold power timer expires, and the ECU turns off while its still cranking and you probably wouldnt even notice. 
Better bet would be to re-wire your key output in this case so that the main relay is triggered by IGN1 key pos *and* by start key pos (ie run a wire from the key start position output to the main relay trigger).
Are you sure your ignition circuit drops out entirely when key is at start pos? Ive heard of accessory power dropping out, and in some cases there are 2 IGN feeds off the key and 1 will drop out (for heater, aircon, wipers etc), but in most cases where people think they have this behaviour its actually just voltage drop due to the load being drawn by the starter. 

Well said Ken. I mentioned in another forum that the wideband only measures "burnt fuel" and the cams skew the readings.
Mine Ej engine runs best at cruise .9-.95 with cams rather than the more traditional 1.0+

Hi- An old saying is - An engine wants what it wants - . Perhaps make it richer in the areas where you feel this noticeable bucking. To me this is a sign of running lean . With your cams you can get intake reversion and all sorts of weird pressure waves happening that can effect smooth running . Especially at that point of light throttle and low/medium engine speed . Dont be stuck on A/F targets at this particular problem area - Try it at 0.9 and see how it runs . 

update: my lambda values on the ecu was crap since calibration was wrong. could not find the correct values but we have retuned fuel according to gauge this time. most of the bucking went away and it's better now. so there were wrong afr values in ecu readings. now only in 2nd gear if you force to drive constantly at 2500 rpm there is a little bucking and i guess this is normal?

It's a graphics driver issue, fixed it for 5.6.6

Hi timmy. 
 
Tried the above suggestion and would work with increased values when IAT sensor was around 50-60 degrees but then when at 90degrees ECT and normal 20degrees IAT engine would flood and foul plugs. 
Ended up leaving those settings and doing similiar to the HP academy 350z tune and put positive values in the 0%TPS row from 40degrees to 80degrees IAT on the IAT compensation table, starts perfect any temperature now and even when the sensor heat soaks  after 10-30 minutes the positive values give the extra fuel required