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Brendon001

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Brendon001 last won the day on January 2 2017

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  1. I Have a modfied toyota altezza with the 3sge beams. forged bottom end running 9.0:1 comp and 272/270 cams retaining vvti. I had converted the oem partial drive by wire throttle to full cable throttle hypertune throttle and a 2 wire ford idle valve but had a horrible time with stalling issues. Have replaced this with a bosch 3 wire idle valve and configured it. Car has been tuned on a hub dyno by a tuner who set up all the idle settings and idle igniton etc. the issue im having is coming to a stop at traffic lights or pulling into a park etc on overrun off throttle, let the revs get down to a
  2. Anyone have ideas on my last post re speedo jumping from 0kph to 13kph?
  3. Update; Have joined the existing r154 gearbox speed sensor straight through to DI3 input and got that reading correctly in the ECU based off GPS speed. Then i have wired and configured an AUX out to the speedo orginal input on the cluster. Set up key sweep and max HZ based of what the key sweep gets to (180kph) and now have a multiplier of 0.87 and the speedo is reading correct at all speeds. Final question is at very slow speeds (1-13kph) my gauge and electeonic gauge jump from 0kph to 13kph (any speed under that shows 13kph until i stop and goes 0kph.). Is this something to do wi
  4. So tried this now have no speed at all. Put a spare pin in the abs module plug as per the instructions and cut the existing speed input to the cluster. Cant seem to get a signal from that ABS pin that is stated. Wondering if its differnet between the is300 US LHD models and ours altezza RHD. Trying to find a pin out for the auto altezza abs module if you know of one
  5. That makes sense as to why my pinout diagram for the cluster specifically references the speed input as 6MT etc. That seems like an easier way to sort it. Am i correct in saying that the speedo would not be out again if my gearing changed or my final drive changed as it would then be off the actual wheel speed. I would take it that rim and tyre size would still affect it slightly.
  6. Hi Thanks for the reply. That confirms why i cant get i working on the dash correctly... i think i will just take the speed input into the dash and the speed out to the ecu and join together to get the VSS straight to the ecu. Then just use a spare aux out on the ecu to send back to the old VSS input on the dash. That way hopefully would work and only need one wire from the ECU to the dash then i presume once i configure the digital input i can configure the output to the dash etc. Cheers!
  7. Hi Guys Just trying to work out how to get my speedo accurate (have facelift cluster with needle gauge and digital gauge). It was running fine same as gps speed with the factory j160 6spd setup but have now swapped to a r154 gearbox 5spd with jzx110 3 wire speed sensor. The speed sensor works fine and have been able to adjust the digital input frequency up to around 305hZ from 244hZ on DI3 and this now shows the same speed in the link ECU as a gps speed. However my dash still is out, ie at 50kph ecu speed dash shows around 58-60kph and at 100kph ecu speed dash shows around 115kph. T
  8. Hi timmy. Tried the above suggestion and would work with increased values when IAT sensor was around 50-60 degrees but then when at 90degrees ECT and normal 20degrees IAT engine would flood and foul plugs. Ended up leaving those settings and doing similiar to the HP academy 350z tune and put positive values in the 0%TPS row from 40degrees to 80degrees IAT on the IAT compensation table, starts perfect any temperature now and even when the sensor heat soaks after 10-30 minutes the positive values give the extra fuel required
  9. Hi Adam and Timmy, have added another question regarding warm start issue if you could make any suggestions! Thanks Brendon
  10. Thanks guys pretty much sorted now! Updated the firmware, raised the idle ignition rmp lockout, raised the idle ignition value to 16 at 0 error and adjusted all the upper and lower error rpm columns, and updates the overrun rpm ect activation table at the warm temperatures. This gave the idle setup more chance to catch the rpm and now it will drop to around 650-700rpm, raise to around 1000 then settle to idle pretty quickly with no bouncing. Just need to fine tune the idle dc settings on the solenoid and will be sorted! Thanks Brendon
  11. Hi guys Edit: I am also having another issue where once warm/hot the car will not start if i leave it for more than a few minutes. Starts and restarts cold and warm every time if not left for long (when warm can turn it off and restart repeatedly) but when up to 90degrees ect and left to heat soak when the IAT is around 40-60 degrees the car will just crank continuously but not start. As soon as the IAT cools down to 20degrees it starts fine with no throttle. If i hold 100% throttle it will rumble into life after 10 seconds or so. Do i need adjustments to my warm crank enrichment and add
  12. Sorry attached is the log. Still seems to be the same? The FPS calibrates fine every time. The TPS sometimes comes up Error 16:cannot reach target 98% but sometimes calibrates and sets ok. Any thoughts? Thanks Brendon E throttle with calibrated sensors.llg
  13. Ok thanks for the info. I will keep an eye out on the accumulator. That error scenario seems slightly different to mine however as if it applies the 1800RPM limit it shouldnt stall out the engine?. When the rpm limit came up on the logging during dyno day it did not light a CEL it was just an internal code I think. The engine would literally be idling at 700RPM for 5 minutes then all of a sudden completely stall with no struggling etc. Sometimes it would do it withing a few minutes, sometimes it would idle fine for 10minutes then stall etc. I would have to turn ignition off and the back on to
  14. Ok thanks will try again. So if the error accumulator reaches a certain amount (how many roughly is this?) Would this cause the 'rpm limit' limp mode you say rather than an e throttle error and CEL? Cheers Brendon
  15. Hi there I have done a quick log with engine off. I have attached a file of my current tune/setup. Dont look at fuel numbers etc as on new injectors and a very base tune but that is not the issue. Was still doing the rpm limit stall on old tune (all other settings are the same). The quiet throttle option does stop the hum at key on engine off. Sorry dont know why log file shows different values, adjust it to ANV2, ANV3 for fps sub and main, and ANV5, ANV6 for tps sub and main and should show graph. E throttle Forum.pclr Log E Throttle Engine Off.llg
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