shrug

Awesome thank you, was just making sure. never dealt with one before and there is one up for a good price.

Can these be used in non gdi cars?

I’ll take one today and post it. Thank you.

Having issues with launch control not holding rpm and continuing out to normal limiter even with a hard limit set 200rpm above launch control limiter. It starts retarding timing where it should be limiting rpm but continues out to normal limiter, anyone had this issue with Lem g3’s? Want to sort out the daily for a autocross this weekend.

Yeah they were around the right way, I even continuity tested it to double check and that’s why I assumed the wiring itself was okay. Adding in my own triggers has seemed to solve it and car is now running perfect. Thank you everyone for the reply’s and help.

Solved, even though the factory body harness continuity tested fine and had rpm signal I run temp triggers direct from ecu to sensors and it fired right up. Obviously some issues in there somewhere in the loom so just going to add my own triggers.

I chucked another set of plugs in it yesterday afternoon and still does the same thing. The cam trigger voltage doesn’t seem to be changing much but showing constant 200ish rpm cranking and no errors now, it does nothing but the odd back fire and tries to stumble on occasionally when you stop cranking like bad timing, it’s acting like ignition timing is way off backfiring out the intake and the odd boom out the exhaust. Kinda weird, never wired in a ecu and had so many issues trying to make it run.

Okay it’s showing solid cranking rpm now, cleaned the plugs up and it still does nothing. Injectors and coils all firing fine on test mode, it doesn’t do much but the odd backfire cranking and when u stop cranking it splutters and coughs and attempts to fire abit. Seems like the timing or something is way off but I don’t see how using factory triggers and subaru trigger settings. This is a quick video that the site will allow me to upload. 36E849FA-D53C-4C08-916C-C5CC3F8398C5.MOV

All sensor gaps are factory mounting / sensors changing the engine harness has seemed to of solved the trigger error issue, just finishing lunch and going to pull the plugs to make sure they aren’t why it won’t do anything more than back fire.

Unfortunately it’s a g3 so doesn’t have it, I tried to post there but had no reply. I think I have solved the trigger issue with it being a faulty engine harness that tested fine polarity wise, I changed that and now not getting errors and solid 200ish rpm signal but the most It does is the odd backfire, used the basemap for 5/6 basemap and just changed the aux’s and ignition to direct spark since it’s actually in a b4 legacy that’s single turbo. Thank you for your reply

Have posted elsewhere but no reply and kinda stumped have tried just about everything. Trigger voltage is real unstable jumping from .50 sitting to between .7/8 cranking to 1.3/5 and rpm from 250/300 to 4-800 and has a trigger error every revolution. V5/6 wrx setup wired using stock harness and ecu plug onto that, have changed sensors and polarity tested loom, have changed trigger arming thresholds abit and still no difference. Anyone come across this before?

Anyone? Today voltage is jumping from .50 to about 1.2/5 and rpm cranking around 250 jumping to 450-600. Anyone have any ideas on why the voltages from the sensor would be so unstable? Getting constant trigger error every revolution.

I’ve wired a lem g3 into a single turbo b4 (v5/6 wrx setup) and having issue trying to get the car to start. Keep getting trigger errors, crank is wired to trigger 1 and cam to trigger 2 and it seems as tho they are both giving signal but throwing the rpm signal off and throwing errors. Has anyone else had this issue and solved it? Trigger voltage is jumping from .50 to .79/80 on both cranking so presume it’s seeing the triggers but getting a fault for trigger 1 and no start every revolution, changed crank and cam sensors to try that and no difference RPM is jumping from 250-300 to 800ish well cranking too

Would any body know what the layout of the plug on the g4+ knock block? Wanting to know what’s signal etc so I can make a patch loom for tapping into stock knock sensors.

As far as I’m aware the are 3sge beams injectors so unsure on exact size, if they don’t flow enough I’ll put some subaru 565’s in it. Thanks for your help to you both, that saves having to rewire how the injectors have been done, just trouble shooting what exactly had been done on the car since it was wired 3 years ago and only just got to the stage of running / tuning. It’s a track car so idle might not be such a issue, if it does present too many I’ll re-wire the injectors to how Richard suggested as I was kinda questioning how they had been paired.

Thank you I thought so just thought it was better to double check than assume. Car is already wired and running just being converted to cop since it’s supercharged and has endless issues with the dizzy setup. Injectors are paired as so.

Hey all just double checking before I wire it like other v8’s I’ve done as I’ve never done a 1uz but I’m assuming on a monsoon only having 4 ignition drives to be wired as so. Drive 1 coils 1&6 Drive 2 coils 8&5 Drive 3 coils 4&7 Drive 4 coils 3&2 then just set the firing order accordingly?

yeah i figured it was the tps itself. Might do what you suggested but use a subaru one. have heaps of them around

Anyone else come across RB20 / series one 25 tps always coming back to a different closed throttle position from not being sprung? Had this issue on two cars now albeit it both with aftermarket throttle bodies, one owner did try epoxying it to the shaft of the throttle body but didn’t make any difference, keeps putting ecu into decel from seeing closed throttle on partial throttle (just off idle low rpm cruising) then no decel from seeing like 1-3% throttle next time u open and close it. Anyone know any spring return tps that use the shaft design to ditch these horrible things? Both tps are both brand new genuine Nissan ones too so not faulty tps causing the issues.

Oh safe as then, nothing to worry about I’ll grab it.

Yes I know this, but people buy them for projects and never use them hence making sure it’s actually had a code issued. Can’t be bothered going threw the hassle of trying to get it and prove purchase etc. Being at the other end of the country I’d rather check than end up with a paperweight.

Looking to see if this storm has had a unlock code issued before I buy it. Serial 3438 Thank you.

Oh awesome, he must of made contact with them to get the code, Saves me the hassle. Hopefully he brings it to me in the morning then. Thank you amazing customer service as always.

Had a customer buy a link and not keep the email for the unlock code, would you please be able to tell me the dealer for serial 02814 so I can contact them to re-send the ecu unlock code please thanks

Ah duh, I didn't read that bit looking for it I went threw the help menu... Always the simple stuff you look past lol, I was trying to use ctrl like most other programs to multiple select things.