superstockneo

Hey @Adamw just wondering if you've managed to play around with this issue on bench. At the moment i'm still running open loop which runs just fine. I remember you saying a possibility of resistance in the throttle blade itself could cause this?

I've posted one here, it's been discussed but being a 5speed H pattern trans with now way of indicating to the ecu what gear you are in, it is a bit tricky.

Oh I didn't know the Haltech gaugeart can gauge is proprietary to work with haltech ecu only. My apologies.

Hi. Are you looking the set the gauge up or configure the canbus parameters in Link? If setting up the gauge you'd need to download the app (ios/android) and connect it via wifi.

Thanks @Adamw I'll try and give that a try

Just an update. I've reverted the idle base position table to span a single axis. and i have reverted to open loop idle. Was stuck in a 2 hour traffic jam yesterday with IAT hitting 69degC (kinda hot because i'm running an open pod). Seems to be running pretty good with barely noticeable undershoots or overshoots during AC operations. Only the neutral decel overhangs. But i did managed to max out the speed lockout. Open loop seems to run better, but I dont have a log for this. Will take one with i've got the time.

I tried the method of zeroing the AC offset table, and span the idle base position table vs ac request digital input. I've increase the clutch delay to 1sec. i did however left the AC Idle up actuator at 50rpm unchanged. it did slightly improve but occasionally i do get undershoots down to 900rpm before going back to target which is about 1050rpm. dont get me wrong 900rpm is fine for most engines but mine tends to idle comfortably slightly above 1000, also having solid engine mounts it helps reduces the vibration a bit. But i have to increase the base position on AC by 1. or i should say even numbers. it tends to react slowly on small increments which Adam suggested this could be a firmware issue, or something else in the hardware or tune. because it happens prominently during hot standing traffic or just sitting in the parking lot where IAT is almost 60degC. But Thanks @koracing for the tip

Thanks @koracing. I'll definitely have a go at that. Previously I did bring the timing in the region below 2000 down, it's roughly around 14-11degs now. My target idle ign is set at 10deg. I could try running a lower timing. But during neutral decel will in fall into idle control mode as i believe speed lockout is still activated. i've set my lockout to be at 20kmh if i recall correctly. unfortunately reducing clutch delay did not do anything. Maybe as another workaround i'd revert back to open loop idle for the time being. the issue is just prominent during hot conditions like traffic and such. or idle stationary when ect is around 80deg. i'm not sure if this is related to other tuning matters like fueling etc.

Hi @koracing, appreciate the input. I've tried messing about with the idle actuator integral gain but seems to not getting any changes. i've also tried messing about with increasing base positions. it reduces undershoots but still slow to respond and gets high overshoots during neutral decel. Spoken to @Adamw offline and he believes it could be firmware related. Thanks Adam for looking into this.

LinkEcus do not support direct EGT input as far as i know. Like @koracing mentioned, you would need a controller that can output analog voltage signals for the ecu to interpret. i've used a reveltronics egt-k thermocouple amplifier. they are pretty affordable.

I’ve done with Defi pressure sensors no issues. They’re basically pretty generic 5v 10bar/150psi sensors. Just use the 150psi ti calibration from the dropdown in pclink. As for temp sensors I’m not so sure, i havent gone to the extent of measuring them yet.

Hi, I looking for some advice. I've been chasing around this idle issue especially when conditions are hot (ie; stationary traffic) especially when AC is on. 1. My target idle tends to oscillates a bit 2. When in hot traffic and AC is on. When AC kicks in RPM would undershoot way below target badly and then recovers to target with AC step up after a while. But it happens the same when AC kicks off, RPM will undershoot below target before recovering to target as well. 3. If I try to overcome this by increasing base position or ac step up table, i will get high overshoots especially during situations when the car is moving and not under idle conditions. Such as coming down to a stop, decel and clutch in to neutral. It's on closed loop DBW. Appreciate the help and advice. Throttle is a bosch motorsports 68mm Link to the logs below OneDrive

You can try using the bosch 10bar calibration or the 1000kpa ti from the drop down. Should work fine.

Just an update on this, I did try the GP RPM for fuel cut method to mimic ORFC. But once fuel cut comes in during decel, throttle becomes very lumpy when tapped or blipped. Haven't got around to get a log but will try to get one. Did managed to get something silly with the cut off, but very mild pops i would say. Just pulled out timing on the 4d/5d ign, didn't add fuel tho.

Thanks @Vaughan. I'll give that a try. Time to get silly then. Also interested to know how can I achieve silly ness with the anti lag function tho. seems much simpler. but looks like it needs to with with tps/aps lockouts too.

Thanks @Vaughan. If I were to use the GP idle trim, it will tell the actuator to open by percentage, should the gp idle up RPM remain zero? Also would this function be locked out because of speed lockout since the car will be moving?

Hi @Vaughan, say I implement something like the one you're suggesting, can I also combine this with a 4d/5d ign table correction to trim the ign for during this "overrun" is activated? Just like the original ORFC function.. 2. Since being silly sometimes requires the throttle to crack open a bit to give it some air, can I use e-throttle table 2, and set it to crack a bit at zero APS in a certain RPM range (even though in g4x it is recommended to leave that area 0). 3. Referring to #2, since being silly some times does not require dumping a lot of fuel, can i also use 4d/5d fuel table correction to trim some fuel out?

Thanks Bro. This did the trick.

Hi All, Would I be able to control the AC clutch with additional logic? Currently the software only allows clutch disengage via TPS/APS value. I'd like to make such that AC clutch will disengage when TPS/APS is over 30% or engine speed is over 3500RPM. Not sure if this setup below makes sense. AC request is Di3, AC Clutch out is AUX7

Can this work if I have idle ign on? I don't have a spare ign table since i'm using both tables for mivec/non mivec conditions. Would it work if i apply to 4f/5d ign instead?

Thanks Adam. Works great now. What do i need to play around with when, i have situations when rpm hangs slightly high when clutch in decel, and sometimes it drops below target then recovers back. Not sure if this makes sense. But most of these happen during low speed, and especially when AC is on. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Al7C1wyXCi4aqneaLQitx57-fXKC?e=Im2583

Do we need to do TPS calibration every time we change e-throttle settings? like PWM freq and PID. And what is the best practice? Change first and calibrate?

Thanks Adam! The virtual aux was originally set on conditions when the vehicle is not moving and no tp command, was trying out that GP idle switch setting, so i wouldnt have to step up the AC so much, because when driving, say during decel approaching a speedbump, clutch in, rpm drops to say 1.3k then shoots to almost 2k when AC request is in. If i trim more on AC stepup then i would get very bad idle when stationary. Somehow it's fixed now even without using the gp idle switch. or maybe i'm just ignoring it. lol.

Hi, I'm having some issues with DBW closed loop idle control. It's not happy with closed loop on. Open loop works fine, not perfect but okay. Wanted to try and run closed loop. As far as PID for the DBW, I think It's in reasonable range, and close to target. But could do better i think? Can I get some help on how I can make this work better? Current setup is Bosch Motorsport 68mm DBW, Mitsubishi 4G93 engine, Link FuryX. Here's the onedrive for the logs and tune. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Al7C1wyXCi4aqnBFnz3bmIYzeMDn?e=hIRxqA Thanks appreciate the help

Thanks Adam, I'll try and get some data and open up a new thread for this. Don't want to be hijacking this thread