Mattias Sandgren

We're going to look into how everythings is grounded and report back. The wiring guidelines from the help files have been followed but you never know.

Genuine Denso coils with 2 pins, we're using two 3-channel Bosch modules. Here they are visible under the BMW e-throttle motor.

I noticed as well, but after we removed the internal lambda I've never had an issue. We dynoed and ran the engine successfully without any errors for a few hours. You already have info about this engine when we failed to get it working with a G4+ Fury, see e-mails with tech support. Case # SUP41671 "Ford Duratec V6 with VCT (VVT) issues" We got it working with a borrowd G4X Storm and later got an early G4X Fury (because G4+ development probably stopped). Unfortunately we wasted an entire season already at that point, we have real winter here. The owner repairs elevators for a living and is very knowledgeable about electrical wiring and noise (and suppression) and has built several cars before (mostly rally). The loom is custom made by him. The coils are stock, with new capacitors at each bank to filter the power at the coils. Plugs are NGK Iridium TR6 with resistors, at first 1.1 mm gap so we had issues from mis-fires already at low load, that might cause noise. We closed them to 0.7 mm and never had a hiccup in the dyno session. The throttle motor is from BMW S54 and controls the custom ITB setup, a few quirks to work out with that as we are still running in setup mode.

Great, to get the the car dynoed and running I connected an old Innovate LM-1 to the only free analog input.

Wiring has been confirmed, it all looks perfect and has been built by a professional. We never had a lambda glitch with the G4+ Fury, but strangely had to exchange it for the G4X Fury to get support for the Jaguar V6 trigger. Can we get Link tech support to look at the datalogs please?

I'm having trouble with a customer car that shows lambda well at idle but any load or revving gives off a lambda error code 4 and ultimately code 5. The temperature of the sensor is 780 C but suddenly drops and comes back several times (about 5-6 times in 20 seconds). The status switches between "Diagnostics" and "Heating", and ends up in "Calibration". It might be wiring or noise related as a new sensor gets the same bad result. I will check that out but would like to hear what kind of issue this behaviour usually points to? I attached a config file and datalog for good measure. The ECU is running the firmware 6.20.40 (latest public fw as of now). 2020611-lambda-error-4.pclx PC Datalog - 2021-06-11 9;14;07 pm-lambda-new-sensor-still-error.llgx

I'm running 6.19.99 on my tuning laptop and remember this was an issue for me already back in whatever version was the latest in August 2020. Graphics and windows are not scaled and sized properly. Examples are attached. The large screenshot is where the log list doesn't show the last two rows, can't reach them. Not as irritating as the too small request windows. It's a Lenovo X1 laptop running the latest drivers in Windows 10. Can I supply any information that could help?

Ah, I should've read about the update. I will use the older PCLink version. Thanks! http://forums.linkecu.com/topic/8841-update-pclink-5663564-on-hold/

Was going to re-tune a customer car, and upon connecting to it I only get an error message. See attached pictures. Car works and runs, but requires a retune with another cam. What is usually the issue with this particular error?

Awesome. Wondered when this would happen. Good work!

I just like to add that I had throttle sticking issues with the S54 with a Link Fury. At low opening (1-2%) it hung a bit and would overshoot once it moved, and removing half the springs solved the issue.

Running a Link Fury G4+ on a customer car, with a Race Technology Dash 2 and their CAN adapter (ECU interface). I would just like to add that using the CANSER cable was not a good idea. Plugging that in caused serial port interference and stopped the communication to the (PC) tuning software. I just added the CAN wiring to the ECU connector instead, and wired that to a DSUB9 connector (pin 2 = CAN L/-, pin 7 = CAN H/+). In the DASH 2 setup I used the Vipec CAN protocol, seemed like the only option. The old G4 protocol didn't have lambda, etc.

Turning off the engine now works, but did a quick solution. Out of all the "key on" signals in the car only one was found to really turn off at the key, so wiring in a relay was the best option. There is probably some kind of "hold relay" in the car that is controlled by the stock ECU and chassis electric units, might be a signal through CAN-BUS. Also this particular model car with APX engine apparently is the only one to have this particular Bosch ME 7.5 ECU, oh well.

This should be adressed in the trigger code for low inertia engines and can be easily solved using the cam sync pulse. Remove all ignition plugs and watch the trigger scope where the cam sync pulse occurs in relation to the crank missing tooth. You can then figure out how many degrees (and number of crank trigger teeth) before TDC cyl 1, a timing light while cranking if you want to be accurate. It would help a lot if that information was available during cranking. In the case of the Rotax ACE 900 with a 36-2 crank trigger wheel and cam sync, it would be a 34+1 trigger until it starts (exceeds rpm threshold) and only then be treated like a 36-2+1 trigger. Basically at low cranking rpm the code should care less about the missing teeth and calculate ignition timing based on cam sync pulse instead. This is typically also a problem with Suzuki motorcycle engines, GSX-R with 24-1 and later ones have a bit easier larger missing teeth 24-2. I've also seen this problem on huge engines (27 litre V12, trigger 24-1 no camsync) where the first few pistons will accelerate the rpm quickly and the missing teeth are lost.

Integrale8v, race jase: Did you ever get this issue sorted ?