Jump to content

lysaer

Members
  • Posts

    43
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by lysaer

  1. Hi all on my r33 gtr rb26dett How can I double check my 2nd fuel pumps cut in injector duty please Also how can i increase the coolant warning, I think currently it warns me with the check engine light at 100c which is to low for the hot weather Thanks in advance all atest-gtr.pclr
  2. Re-did all my wiring etc and added the cap but had no luck, today I swapped out the sensor and now it is all working, it needed all the power wiring sorted anyways and I have left the cap in so hopefully now it all stays working
  3. Switched out actual sensor today and is now working , will post a log up for you in a bit Thanks for all the help, at least I got all decent wiring etc running there now as well Uploaded log to my Google Drive here as I don't have any space left on the thread for uploads https://drive.google.com/open?id=10vuPvfWhPcwv-wVLWtquA_ZmPBnqB6QV I have an issue with my A/C where it stalls the engine, it would be near the start of the log, not sure if that is related or how I could remedy that as well Thanks again Adam
  4. I know you mentioned in the other thread about it being a faulty unit, but remember I fitted the new unit so right now there is a brand new one in there I have got the capacitor so will connect that to test, if it ever stops raining in the UK....
  5. What size deutsch pins are they please, going to redo mine as well
  6. Tested with the jumper pack today, still same error 16 and 33 I've ordered a 22uf capacitor to give that a try as well
  7. Yeah I just was having a search and it seemed like the exact same error so was going to see how he resolved it Interesting, I will look into this, going to connect direct to a battery jump pack for now Hmm I might give this a try as well since it seems to have worked for you
  8. Yeah power is now direct from battery via relay and I replaced the wires going to the CAN Lambda with 14awg Nothing unusual, battery is in original location I have one of these jump starters which I could connect the wires to and run it in the car to test NOCO Genius Boost Plus GB40 1000 Amp 12V UltraSafe Lithium Jump Starter https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_w2l-BbPEYM8GH
  9. Sorry to resurrect an old thread, I think I am in a similar scenario to yourself as am getting the same errors. How did you end up wiring it in the end to resolve it and what kind if lengths were your +/- cables ? Thanks in advance
  10. Was unable to check yesterday as was raining all day so couldn't pull apart All blocks are now green in the CAN tab and in the ECU status tab it shows CALIBRATION but showing error 16 and 33 under "lambda 1 error", have a log but I don't have enough space to upload it so have linked to my Google drive https://drive.google.com/open?id=1N-qAqRcEqtmGs05HKuQLXJz276YgCEHa
  11. I'll check tomorrow when I pull it all back out
  12. Yup went direct to battery and fitted the relay, before putting it all back tested it and all blocks were green on CAN 1, started engine still all green, switched off engine, exited software, reloaded software, switched it all back on and still all green Put it all back together and now same red errors Really appreciate how helpful you guys are
  13. So I boxed it all up and put it back together and now the error is back :/ I wonder if there is some EMI, I have ordered some copper sleeving and will pull it apart again tomorrow and see if the error goes away
  14. I want to make sure that I keep the good current coming directly from the battery, if I wire in a relay to work with ignition on the 14 gauge wire I have used directly from the battery will that be ok, or will it cause interference again or power up issues ?
  15. So connected directly to power and this is what the runtime values shows for CAN The lambda is still not showing a value restarted ecu and now Ok, fitted a brand new CAN Lambda, kept the old sensor and connected it up, disabled the gaugeart dash on CAN 2 and now am Green, but still not showing an AFR reading in the software in the lambda box, added log as well Log 2018-11-18 2;16;50 pm.llg
  16. Great, noted Could a fouled lambda sensor give the same error I am receiving or is it specifically related to CAN lambda power?
  17. I ran through the CAN setup and when I do find devices the only one showing up is the CAN lambda, would that be correct or should there be other sensors, I'm guessing EGT?
  18. I have updated the firmware and I checked the voltage on the CAN Lambda it is showing 14v when engine is on Going to check wiring properly tomorrow to make sure cables are large enough and see what they are connected to in case of interference as I did not install it I have a direct to battery ignition relay for running equipment in the front of the vehicle, like LCD dash, cameras, telemetrics etc etc https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stinger-SGP38-80-AMP-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001HC6UJ0 If I connect it directly to that for testing purposes would that suffice, or should I just connect directly to battery live and bypass ignition then run a LOG and test ? Also as a side note, is there EGT data being displayed in the log as I am unsure if the EGT sensor is connected Thanks for all the help so far
  19. I will check the ignition power it is connected to to make sure there are no issues and also update the firmware on the device, is the firmware just downloaded from the site ? I did notice the Lambda gauge on the software was not displaying anything, is that because of the error or do I need to enable to something else so it shows AFR ? I did not fit the ECU or sensor but I would assume the mapper did when the car was originally setup I pulled the plug again today and there are small signs of oil on it, since the compression seems fine I am guessing it might be a valve seal that has gone, I think next step will be a leakdown test to see if I can hear any air coming out the head
  20. There is a lambda on the CAN connection ECU CONTROLS --> CAN SETUP it is on CAN 1, I did not do the map on the car originally so where would I disable the CLL ? It is only cylinder 1, I had the injectors taken out and flow tested and they are all running perfectly, so am sure it isn't a sticky injector there is a lambda sensor installed on the CAN, if I go to ECU CONTROLS --> CAN SETUP it is on CAN 1 I dropped the IN DC% on fuel pump 2 to 50% and it shows the 50% figure in red, is that an issue ? Fairly new to settings As @Adamw stated I have the HKS V-Cam in the vehicle, mainly it is a HKS 2.8, V-Cam Step 2 head, twin 2530-kai turbos and a lot of other supporting mods I guess it could be a valve seal has gone and some oil is getting through, the build is fairly new with all new components and only covered about 8000 miles though, so wouldn't think it was that
  21. here is a copy of my map as well r33_gtr_may_2018_oil_pressure_enabled.pclr
  22. Hi all Recently my cylinder 1 spark plug has been fouling badly and becoming carbonised I have done a compression test and compression is perfect and equal across all cylinders I took a driving log and was wondering if there was anything in the log that might indicated why it is fouling up, the log is pretty big so zipped it with 7zip Thanks in advance all Log 2018-10-18 7;41;11 pm.7z
  23. Will do that today for you
  24. So I have been testing with different variables the last few days started at 5% then 6% up to 10% but still getting stalling when coming to a stop I stuck in 25% just to test it at standing idle and as soon as I turn on the AC it just dies. Wasn't sure how much over 10% I should go for driving or if there is somewhere else I should be looking at resolving this Thanks again in advance
  25. Brilliant will give that a shot and report back
×
×
  • Create New...