1qwkmini

Sent it to ATI for a rebuild...they supply the shells

I did make some additional changes to warmup...still an ongoing process. No older logs except the one in the earlier post in this thread. I tested the intake for leaks and it all tested fine. It runs like it wants to go but just can't really rev up. Is it possible the CanLambda is messed up? New 02 sensor in it now. Would cracked exhaust cause the symptoms? Haven't thought of/looked into that possibility.

Cleared some upload space.. PC Datalog - 2022-10-1 4;48;50 pm.llgx

It's been a long time, but I made the adjustment to the map and put the car away last fall. I pulled the car out in the spring and it started destroying the serpentine belt....2 ATI damper shells later I discovered that the alternator was seizing and causing the issue. All back together and now another issue has come up...it now runs lean on acceleration (lambda 1.5). Only changes to tune have been related to starting and idle (at least it starts well now). I've done a file compare and don't see any obvious issue that I have created with the start/idle. Have replaced the MAP sensor, O2 sensor, plugs/wire and coil...no change. Map sensor is an Omni Power 2.5 bar...Could it be that I need to set the MAP limit to 245? rather than 250 (sensor limit)?? Have attached the current tune ...any insight would be much appreciated. Log file attached in next post Sept22#2.pclx

I thought of that just after I posted, but I thought I was fine. Did realized it had a 10kPa control range. I will make appropriate adjustments. Unfortunately this was the last track day for the year and it will be a while before I get to test it out. Thx

Running into an issue with my Mini Cooper that I can't get a handle on. Car ran fine in the spring, then at a summer track event it started acting like it was running into a rev limiter at around 4500 rpm in 3rd and 4th gear. Had a look at my AIM data and it looked like the ECT was dropping to -40, so suspected the sensor/wiring. Replaced the sensor and the wiring harness and went out to the track this morning and same problem, but ECT looks fine. Replaced the MAP sensor (new)...still same issue. Now I suspect something in the current tune, but can't see anything obvious to me. Have included the current tune and a log of today's issue (see late in the log). Any help would be appreciated. I've obviously done something stupid, but can't find it. Mini Missfire -2021-10-23 10;10;00 am.llgx MiniOCT21-tune.pclx

Perfect...all cleared now. Race car--has master shut off...just changed the OBD setting and everything is working perfectly. THX

Nope...didn't work...ECT still pinned and red warning light on (after cold start). AIM Dash shows 16C which about right for the garage. ABS etc warning lights stay on. Maybe I still have it set incorrectly. 1QWK_NEW_Test.pclx

Finishing up the setup on my R53 and noticed that the Speedo/instrument cluster isn't working properly. ECT is full max and all the warning lights stay on. I suspect that the CAN supply to dash needs some configuration or?? CAN 1 is configured for CanLambda and Aim MXL dash. Do I configure CAN 2 for MiniLink? and what is the proper setup to get the instrument cluster back to proper function (worked fine with the old Vipec) Thx

Thanks Adam...will work on it tomorrow...I'm in Canada so late here.

I just saw in another post that Evans has a training course for the G4x...I can't find any contact info. If I buy the course is it accessible for life or limited time?

ADAM---YOUR THE MAN Idles quite nicely. I returned the fuel and Ign tables back to the original Vipec settings before trying your fix..file attached...thought that might be the best place to start. I made changes to the warm up enrichment and played with the fuel table a little...running pretty rich at idle...file included and a log. Do I correct the Lambda in the fuel map or is there somewhere else to adjust? Accel enrichment also needs a little work...rpm drops a lot on return to idle...see late in the log. THANKS SO MUCH Newidle-original F-IGN.pclx Newidle-original F-IGN--wu changes.pclx PC Datalog - 2021-01-6 9;29;59 am.llgx

Thanks Adam...Map sensor is not a stock Mini unit...it is one provided by Jan at RMW to counter the problems with the stock unit at higher boost (when I was still running the TMIC). But at this point with the FMIC I don't get anywhere near the same boost and could actually go back to the stock sensor. Will give the new idle.pclx a go.

BTW--full race car, idle target is 1300. Running TVS S/C, FMIC, CatCam 279/238 deg on 100 octane gas

I recently replaced my Vipec with a G4x. I was having issues with throttle causing it going into limp mode. Due to COVID Lockdown here I can't take the car to anyone to set it up, so I have been learning more about tuning and working on the transfer myself. Unfortunately the files don't transfer directly, so I have been transferring the important parts of the tune manually and the car now runs. I have started with getting a stable idle (also a problem on the Vipec) and E throttle setup at 0 APS seem high and I have need to lean out the fuel table and reduce the timing to get a stable idle. I think I must have something fundamentally wrong somewhere. Maybe someone else can find it. Attached are 2 previous Vipec files, current stable G4x file and a log of stable idle. Any help would be appreciated.

Sorted...stole those setting from a friends tune. It is working now. I swear I tried that and every other combination...but this morning it's working. THX

I recently installed a G4x in my Mini Cooper (upgrade from early Vipec)...I've managed to get the ecu and Can Lambda working. I've wired the Can Lambda into a modified Can Dash Cable connected to the PCB cable/port on the ecu. Basically a version of these 2 cables (basically first cable with the made from my Can Dash cable and some Deutsch connectors) Problem is no matter what settings I use in the MXL...I can't get any data on the Dash (ECT,IAT, Lambda) so no Can Data visible. I followed the instructions/settings in HELP and any others that I could find. Not sure if both CanL and AIM should be setup in the Can 1 screen in G4x or??? Pretty sure it's just a setup thing, but I can't find anything for the setup of the CanLambda and Dash anywhere (can find either seperately). Can someone walk me thru the setup of both, or is my cable setup flawed (btw tested Can Resistance and it is 65 Ohms so cable/connection appears to be fine) Thx

Thanks, I'll pass the email on to Jan(RMW)....but he should already know this stuff.

I've gotten past the voltage drop issue...tested everything and I can't find anything causing the drop, so I will assume that this is normal on a Mini Cooper and it doesn't seem to shut down the ECU. Now another question: On the no start on refire....If I simply turn off the ignition key and try and refire, it simply won't start. If I however cycle the master power breaker (race car) and try to restart...it fires up just fine (maybe not as nice as from cold). Is there anything that may be setup on the ignition circuit that isn't getting turned off with the key that could be causing an error with the Vipec?? sensor or something? It may be something that is getting constant power that needs to be switched power. Any ideas appreciated. Could it be the Vipec unit?

It's had a few different (known and tested) batteries in it and same thing happens. I'm working my way thru all possible tests today. Alternator---I completely disconnected it and same thing. When the car is running I have 14+ V. I've disconnected all possible high draw accessories with the same result. What I really need to know is if the momentary drop to 10.5ish Volts will cause a problem for the Vipec----because the car fires up great from a cold start....just not on a refire. It could be the way the Vipec is setup that is causing the Refire issue...but I need to be sure it's not the voltage causing the issue

My battery voltage drops to 10.4-10.8 range for a split second and returns to 12+V when starting my Mini. Is that unusual and will it cause a problem with the Vipec (Voltage too low). I've been chasing this problem for a while now. The car starts fine from a cold start (even with the voltage drop). But has real difficulty refiring if it stalls or starting if the engine is partially warm. It tends to be easier to refire if I cycle the master power switch off and on again. BTW I know s*^t about setting up this thing (Jan from RMW set it up). I think it's time to find someone local to tune this thing. ANY THOUGHT/HELP APPRECIATED!

That is what I referring to.....all I'm after is: 1-Aquamist failsafe automatically triggers base fuel table when the it runs out of meth but runs on a second fuel table tuned to 100%meth under normal conditions. Not problem there (as far as I know). 2-Ability to switch fuel tables (without needing to plug in a laptop)...essentially telling the Vipec that the Aquamist is out of fluid.

It there a quick and easy way to install an external switch to control table switching?? Trigger default table with switch to use 50/50 meth and use the secondary table with the failsafe when running 100% meth.

Can you use the ground wire (along with the signal wire) on the original O2 plug (Mini Cooper) or is it best practice to use a direct ground back to the ECU ground point? There some discussion/concern about the accuracy of the Wideband if any ground other than the ECU is used!!!

For the Aqaumist failsafe---is it sending a signal to the ECU to turn on the secondary map and the signal stops when the tank is empty? Or does it send a signal to the ECU when the tank is empty. I'd like to put a switch in the failsafe circuit to cause the ECU to default to the primary map...trigger the failsafe (when I run a 50/50 mix but tune for no meth...just for a safety factor) and use the secondary map when I use 100% meth for competition.