Warchild
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Posts posted by Warchild
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1 hour ago, Adamw said:
Ok, a few mistakes in there:
- You have Aux 3 is set to Inlet RH, if im reading your notes above correctly I think this should be Exhaust LH.
- Aux 8 is set to Exhaust LH, above your note says it is wired to Exhaust RH.
- Trigger 1 is set to optical/hall, this should be set to reluctor.
- One or more of your DI's cam assignments are wrong too by the looks. You have both trig 2 and DI1 set to LH inlet. What cam is DI1 wired to? I assume one of the exhaust cams?
- DI 2 I assume is RH Inlet? If so the pull-up should be turned on since it is a hall sensor.
- The exhaust cam DI's should have the pull-up turned off. (DI4 is currently on).
For the offsets you need to run the cam angle test on each cam individually. Instructions are in the help file. Use a test pulse count of 3 when testing the inlet cams and a test pulse count of 2 when testing the exhaust. The lowest absolute cam angle reported when doing the cam angle test is the value you enter for your offset. G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > VVT Control > Tuning VVT Control > Cam Angle Test
Please check if this is correct now please
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1 hour ago, Adamw said:
Please do the trigger scope so I can confirm the set up. Cranking or idle is fine.
OK, latest CAL file and Trigger scope.
Please double check what I have posted as to what sensors we used where NAD WHICH SIDE of the engine, we might have sensors wrong way around etc.
THANK YOU ADAM !!!!
latest 3 sept 2022.pclr trigger scope 3 sept 2022.llg
1 hour ago, Adamw said:Please do the trigger scope so I can confirm the set up. Cranking or idle is fine.
OK, latest CAL file and Trigger scope.
Please double check what I have posted as to what sensors we used where NAD WHICH SIDE of the engine, we might have sensors wrong way around etc.
THANK YOU ADAM !!!!
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Hi Adam.
Just a (positive) update, the car starts and idles !!
We went back to basics and just checked every last thing, replaced the spark plugs, each injector connector checked and replaced, each coil connector checked and replaced where needed, each and every cam sensor wiring checked and fixed, just so many things. Went through the help file, followed all related settings we could find, rewrote all the needed configs, saved, stored and started first time !! Idles very high (2000rpm) but don't thinks it is related to anything config, whole engine and parts were rebuilt etc.
Attached CAL file, PLEASE , with my latest post about where and how we connected stuff, please verify that our settings are correct? Specially about the following
1.) DI - 1 : This is a standard input on the STI V7 as you know, but it now runs on a ej25 QUAD AVCS head. What must the offset be?
2.) DI - 2 : What must the Offset be ? Offset is now 17.0 ATDC where DI-1 is 300 ?
3.) DI - 3 : What must the offset be ? Currently it is 288.0 ATDC
4.) AUX1 - Stock settings (for STI V7 heads), Offset is 300 Hz, correct for the EJ25 QUAD AVCS heads?
5.) AUX2 - same question as question 4
6.) AUX3 - the new cable pulled and configured, also same setting as AUX1 ? or what must they be ?
7.) AUX8 - same question as point 4-6
I thank you in advance for the help ! Please provide feedback soonest, much appreciated.
Here is the CAL file, wouldn't let me upload with previous post
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Just to keep all info in one place, this is what we have done, please, please help, as the car does not start.
AGAIN, is is a standard STI v7 bottom end and DUAL VVT EJ25 heads.
Attached the LATEST file on the car now. But PLEASE read the following, explaining exactly where what cable is to what sensor.
1.) Intake RH bank ( so standing infront of car, the banks then on your left hand side), WAS a 2 sensor wire, that has been moved to the new DUAL VVT head, RH intake sensor, which is a 3 sensor plug, and given 12v power. As you said we should do ?
2.) Intake LH cam pulley sensor (stock one) has been moved to the new DUAL VVT head intake cam sensor, also a 3 wire now, at the back of the head. as suggested.
3.) the LH side cam sensor, on the stock sti v7 head, is a secondary sensor, has been moved to the LH side EXHAUST cam sensor on the new DUAL VVT head.
4.) A new cable was pulled from the ecu (DI4) to the RH EXHAUST cam sensor on the EJ25 DUAL VVT head.
5.) A new cable was pulled from the ECU (AUX3) to the LH VVT Solenoid
6.) A new cable was pulled from the ECU (AUX8) to the RH VVT solenoid.
So please have a look at the attached file and check if all is correct.
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On 8/23/2022 at 11:56 AM, Adamw said:
Map below should be somewhere close. Use the "test PWM" function on each aux to confirm they are wired/assigned to the correct cam solenoid.
Also, check your DI's, you had DI1 set to LH intake but that cam should be wired to trig 2 so I have changed DI1 to RH intake. I changed DI2 to LH Exh and DI4 to RH exh.
Hi Adam, sorry where is the test PWM function?
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Yes 3 pin on intake and 2 pin on exhaust
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I change DI4 under the "Digital Inputs" section to VVT Cam Position, Cam Type= Exhaust R/H, Pullup Resistor=ON, Active Edge=Rising, Offset=0.0ATDC (this correct?)
I changed AUX5 under "Auxiliary Outputs" Function=VVT Cam solenoid, Frequency=50Hz (standard setting), Cam Type=Exhaust R/H
I changed AUX8 under "Auxiliary Outputs" Function=VVT Cam Solenoid, Frequency 15Hz (standard setting), Cam Type=Exhaust L/H
What is still wrong ? Thank you in advance
After new engine install 2022 - changes for cam sensors.pclr
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On 8/8/2022 at 12:16 PM, Adamw said:
The V7 engine would have originally had a cam sensor at the front of one head behind the sprocket connected to trigger 2 then 2 further sensors at the back connected to DI's.
You will now no longer have or need the front sensor, the LH intake cam sensor at the back will now need to be connected to trig 2 instead, the other 3 cam sensors will need to be connected to 3 DIs between DI 1-4. DI 1 & 2 will already be there at the back of the heads so you will just need to run 1 further DI from ECU to cam sensor - probably DI4 is easiest (was IC spray switch in some models). You will need to run power to the cam sensors too.
The new extra 2 AVCS solenoids need to be connected to any aux between Aux 1-8. Probably the easiest is Aux 8 (was o2 sensor heater) and Aux 5 (CE light), the CE light could be moved to any other spare output.
HI Adam
Ok, after we have done this, sorry there is just MASSIVE work that was needed on the car, so we are completing this now. So once we have connected this as you described, what changes inside the Link ecu software must be made now to complete this upgrade and for the car to start and function normally? Sorry, first time doing this, want to make sure it is done 100% for this car. Attached the latest file I have for this car, kindly change the file and confirmed what you changed so we can learn from it if you don't mind ? Thank you so much in advance
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9 hours ago, Adamw said:
What you are calling "AN-Block" is the expansion port. No you wont be able to use these for your AVCS. You need the cam position sensors connected to DI1-4 and the cam solenoids connected to Aux 1-8.
Thanks again for the info, we will change accordingly.
Kindly confirm.
We need one DI, which we took from DI4 (pin B-12 IC spray) ,
We need 3 AUX ports so we used:
AUX8 (pin C13 - rear O2 sensor)
AUX5 (pin D-15 CE Light)
AUX 3 (C-10 ISC Solenoid)
How or where do I "move the CE Light" in the configuration?
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On 8/8/2022 at 12:16 PM, Adamw said:
The V7 engine would have originally had a cam sensor at the front of one head behind the sprocket connected to trigger 2 then 2 further sensors at the back connected to DI's.
You will now no longer have or need the front sensor, the LH intake cam sensor at the back will now need to be connected to trig 2 instead, the other 3 cam sensors will need to be connected to 3 DIs between DI 1-4. DI 1 & 2 will already be there at the back of the heads so you will just need to run 1 further DI from ECU to cam sensor - probably DI4 is easiest (was IC spray switch in some models). You will need to run power to the cam sensors too.
The new extra 2 AVCS solenoids need to be connected to any aux between Aux 1-8. Probably the easiest is Aux 8 (was o2 sensor heater) and Aux 7 (CE light), the CE light could be moved to any other spare output.
Hi Adam, kindly confirm ( sorry only received the solenoids and extra cam sensors today)
On the link ecu, the 8 ports (LETS CALL THE CONNECTION BLOCK THE "AN-BLOCK") ( does not have a link connector and loom
) are unused (IGN5, IGN6, IGN7, IGN8, DI9, TEMP4, VOLT10, VOLT11)
Then the connection port next to it, which has a link ecu loom and connector, namely (GND, 5V+, DI7, DI8, VOLT6, VOLT7, VOLT8, VOLT9)
DI7 - open / unused
DI8 - open/unused
VOLT7 - open/unused
VOLT9 - open/unused
So we must/can use DI7, DI8, DI9 as you have mentioned right ?
Then to understand, AUX ports you are referring to, are these any of the 8 ports on the "AN-BLOCK" ?? If not, given the info I just gave you, what port names must I use for all the connections you mentioned ?
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13 minutes ago, Adamw said:
I’m not at a pc, but sensor pinouts and wiring will be on that page.
Ok will look, but for the 5v question, where do we pull that from for the cam sensor which now needs it?
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Any feedback please ?
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On 8/8/2022 at 12:16 PM, Adamw said:
The V7 engine would have originally had a cam sensor at the front of one head behind the sprocket connected to trigger 2 then 2 further sensors at the back connected to DI's.
You will now no longer have or need the front sensor, the LH intake cam sensor at the back will now need to be connected to trig 2 instead, the other 3 cam sensors will need to be connected to 3 DIs between DI 1-4. DI 1 & 2 will already be there at the back of the heads so you will just need to run 1 further DI from ECU to cam sensor - probably DI4 is easiest (was IC spray switch in some models). You will need to run power to the cam sensors too.
The new extra 2 AVCS solenoids need to be connected to any aux between Aux 1-8. Probably the easiest is Aux 8 (was o2 sensor heater) and Aux 7 (CE light), the CE light could be moved to any other spare output.
Hi Adam, thank you as always !
Quick questions please.
1.) The power we need to take to the 3 pin crank sensors, where do we take power from ? If it is 12v, we will take from ignition power, but if it is 5v power needed, where to we take it from ?
2.) DO you have the cam sensor diagram that shows what each of the 3 pins represent?
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You can use a 1/8" 150 psi 3 wire sensor if you wish if that is your thread I am sure
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Many thanks! We have used a lot of the inputs already for other stuff, so will check what is open etc.
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HI Adam / Tech / Members
OK, so we installed two new heads form a 2014 STI on a 2002 (V7) STI ej207 motor. Perfect fit , no issues.
As you know, the V7 heads only have the cam sensor (timing) and the VVT intake sensor as part of the engine loom.
On the 2014 heads, you also have the VVT on the exhaust side as well. (DUAL VVT HEADS)
My question, is my V7 Link ecu G4+ capable of managing the exhaust VVT as well via an input ?
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Blue plug ecu.
adam please help!! All sorted now, thanks, last thing is how to match the timing???? Actual timing with the timing light is 65 degrees positive, and ecu timing is like 12… where must we change what to match?
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9 hours ago, Adamw said:
Can
Set the aux you have connected the fan relay to as below:
Can you attach a photo of the trigger wheel. 60-2 on the cam doesnt sound like a good idea, the teeth would need to be tiny and the output voltage will be very low.
I have set that is you have explained, easy I know, my question is, since the RB20DET ecu does not have a fan out pin, must I use either the Temp 3 Temp 4 or Volt 2 or Volt 8 Pin ? I have GND,+5V, DI5, DI6, Volt8, Volt2, Temp3, Temp4
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Sorry Adam! We have the 60-2 on the crank pulley! Please help!
also the cables that plug into the fan switch, must come from which pin on the ecu?
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Good day, kindly assist.
We are installing, or have installed a G4 R34 Nissan Skyline unit into a GTST Skyline with a RB25 engine swap.
1.) Kindly assist on how to control the engine fans , let's say to activate on 92 degrees celcius, and turn off on 88 degrees celcius.
2.) Second issue is that we have installed a Cam gear on the cab pulley, 60 tooth minus 2 tooth. It is a 3 wire cam sensor from a VW Golf GTI, but we are only using two cables. What is the setup that must be done PHYSICALLY like distance from the cam gear or gap size etc, and please check my config under trigger 1 settings and others if I must change something. Very difficult to start, revving very well, but rough and rich idle
PLEASE help
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Good day Link Support
Kindly change my attached map and add launch control for me PLEASE. Much appreciated.
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I have been asking for help on the same subject, I am have done what has been said, but I also do not get it right
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Adam can you perhaps assist me ? I get it kind of going from 3000 rpm and lower when decelerating, but with a lean fuel mixture which is not doing the flames I want... please help, so I can sell some more link ecu's
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Thanks, also fixed now. One thing extra I had to do was to set up the low and high voltage values, as both was 0.00V. Made the high value 5.0 V and sensor came online
)
Subaru V7 with 2014 STI dual VVT heads
in G4+
Posted
Hi Adam
I suspect the car has in issue with a Coil or injector, but I think 90% it is a dead coil or spark plug.
I see there is a built in Ignition test. HOw do I use that to test ?
Do I remove the coil pack and spark plug and hold it outside the engine, put ignition on and put ignition 1 to on. This will spark until I turn it of ?
1-4 correlates to cylinder 1-4 ?
Kindly confirm