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About Jens_l

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  • Birthday 04/14/1986

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    : Sweden

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  1. This is the only picture i have of the injectors for now. I can remove one injector in a day or two if you want more detailed.
  2. Hi next year i am thinking of retune my car from traditional to modelled fuel equation. But it's hard to get data for my injectors. The company who i bought the injectors from could only get injector dead time for the 1200 cc injectors. But they said it's almost the same injectors. My injectors is called Bosch ev14 modified, 12 ohms and delivers 1300 cc at 3 bar fuel pressure. This year i have run the car with the 1200 cc injector dead times and my lambda is almost spot on. A little jumpy on idle and i don't know if that is because of injector dead time or some other factor. How impo
  3. The stock turbo is very small with alot of back pressure in the exhaust. But yeah the ignition advance is probably very safe on boost and the old 8 valve volvo engines sure do like higher ignition advance. But the turbo is going to be upgraded this winter and i probably got a boost leak that i need to find.
  4. Hi Here is my Volvo 940 turbo with a G4+ Monsoon installed by me. Using stock 60-2 vr crank sensor and a rebuilt distributor with vr for cam sync. Running sequential on the injectors and a VAG wasted spark coil hidden under the intake. Also hooked up speed signal and oil pressure, have wires in the engine bay for fuel pressure sensor but not connected yet. Also stock tacho,iac valve and ce light is working. Took the car to a dyno to get help with the fuel and ignition table. Otherwise i try to learn and tune by myself. It made 202 whp with stock turbo and exhaust at around 12-14(0.9-
  5. Hi I am new to tuning. I know the basics but i am more experienced in installation than tuning. So i have installed a Link G4+ Monsoon to my Volvo 8 valve b230 turbo engine. Running with 1300cc injectors and a custom made cam trigger as secondary trigger. My Ve table and ignition table is tuned by a tuner in a dyno but i ran the car to the tuner so he could not help me so much with the cold start settings. It's running on E85 It takes long time to crank the engine and when the engine starts it runs very rich in the beginning. I have tried to rise and lower the crank enrichment and a
  6. Hello I have wired up a Link G4+ Monsoon with 60-2 cranktrigger and camsync. Wasted spark coil and sequential fuel injection to my Volvo redblock B230 and i have also wired in the stock iac bosch pwm two wire valve. But i have problem set it up. If i run test mode on the valve it makes noise around 1-40hz over that it's silent. And in my open loop iac table nothing happens between 0-30% over 30% and up the engine goes down in rpm instead of higher. So i have adjusted the throttle body instead to get rpm. And when i try to start the engine at warm temperature it starts and then dies if don
  7. I can confirm Realdash works with g4+ monsoon with short datastream and 57600. Tried it on my macbook with windows 10. Gonna try in the future with a tablet instead.
  8. Great, bought a relay and cable today. But the problem to store config was there before i hooked up the electrical fan. Tried to update firmware to the latest version but stil the same problem. A friend borrow my ecu to try with my ecu in his car to see if his trigger problems went away. But he couldn't load his config into my ecu. We have both Link G4 Storm Edit: The store problem seems to have fix it self today
  9. Hi I have removed the mechanical fan from the waterpump on my 7m-gte and installed an electrical fan from a Volvo V70 with Volvos 2-speed relay. I have wired it in to Auxiliary Output 1 so the fan runs at full speed. The cable for low speed is unused at the moment. It's working great with ignition on. Fan starts and stops at the right temperature. But when i am turning off the ignition key and the link ecu gets powerless the fan starts again and runs all the time. The volvo fan relay only have one positive cable so i can't connect the relay solenoid to ignition switch. I guess i need to hook
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