wildwestaussie1

I agree with the vipec v88,loved them except for one unexplained shutdown into safe mode which can be a prob if you don't have some sort of personal computer near you LOL, i do not agree about the cam sensors,subaru has dedicated sti part no and it's known to be "different",but as i said resistance was the same ,so it might be wound in opposite direction. wiring config is now completely stock which seems to produce a negtive/backwards polarity issue but thats with stock wiring config and sti sensor,no one had modified the wiring loom of the 2002 car prior to me,and i in fact removed it from the 2002 motor and put it on the 1998 motor the 2002 was stock as a rock,the 1998 car was the mystery item supposedly havg the driveline fron a wrecked team Apexi car. no one would be silly enough to try and set me up,see my facebook page for pics of knocked out dicheads in perth western australia,2 so far caught on camera LOL,wish we had digital cameras 20 years ago.

wow,you really are a turkey,like i said i'm not putting my resume up here just to impress a yokel like you. i have fitted or done set up tunes on most avail brands of ecu and yes occaisionally you always get the odd car that will take days to start,even motec has had no start issues so don't go saying my situation was out of the ordinary. as a qualified mechanic i'll touch whatever i like on the car and if you don't like that princess then thats tough for you. as one of your own posters agreed the 1998 sti motor should have had the correct teeth on the cam wheel,it did'nt and was probably changed out to run on the standard model apexi power fc as it was set up previously in the 1998 car,unfortunately the power FC does'nt plug into the 2002-2005 models. cam pulse still appears to be backwards and that may also be a quirk of the STI sensor,they are supposedly different to the standard sensor,resistance measured the same so maybe subaur does the windings opposite to again try and stop people putting sti computers into otherwise standard cars. so your a "proffessional tuner",what does that mean?do you have any sort of automotive qualification or engineering degree(automotive),maybe your just used to working on brand new or factory team type cars with engines that have never been opened up or fiddled with. like i said this was a favor for some apprentices who did the engine conversion/swap without consulting me till it was in the car and non starter,link was able to deal with that off forum,they posted a snippet of that,and if they want to publish more then thats up to them,i could'nt care less. my qualification is diesel but it was back in the day when truck mechs got car qual as well having also done units on cars,government fucked that up,and i remember talking to a retied mechanic called Harry Cooper back in the 80's who told stories about his time where a mechanic was a mechanic and aircraft were also included LOL,he was 85 years old back in 1982 when this convo took place,harry was also reknown for his method of checking for spark,holding onto the plug lead and holding his thumb nail 1/4 " off the engine and getting someone to crank it,and he did'nt even flich and lived to be VERY old,he would accopany his son phill out on afterhours work which is where i met him,his knowlage was quite helpful,and i was hit with 2 tasers in jail with no effect LOL,so valuable lessons learned,harry also knew a bit about high performance and ran a twin BMC 6 cyl rail at ravenswood raceway in the early 70's and it was still in phills shed right through the 80s when i saw it. i'm not some dickhead who woke up one day and decided to be a mechanic,it's what life dealt me and i'm good with that. only went on this forum cos link decided to close for the weekend and forgot about me when i had already called and emailed to say i had an issue,till the monday and like i said i asked the guys to get a plugin cos i did'nt have alot of free time to set up anything complex although abilitywise i certainly could. i'd like to say alot more to you crapper but you'd find the l;anguage offensive nah it was'nt that retarded LOL,at least the two people working on it previously were 3rd year apprentices and not complete numptys LOL. was just sensitive to crank and cam sensor polarity after swapping cam wheel to correct one as link dianosed for me,cam pulse still appears to be backwards but runs with no trigger errors that way. i just cant see why link can't preset a subaru wrx V7-10 G4+ plugin to do just that and plugin and go. as i said on some other part of the post i am impressed with how well the cars runs on the G4+ basemaps and tables with minimal tweaks,it was just a prick to do the initial set up

yeah maybe STI stuff has a few tricks up it's sleeve,but wiring had'nt been modded prior to engine swap

i did'nt put the engine in the car how many times do i have to say that,i got called in when it was already in and a non starter. wheels looked the same and as someone else pointed out the 98 STI motor should have already had the v7-10 cam wheel anyway,one of the many tricks subaru did to try and stop the interchange of STI engines and hardware into the lesser wrx's. 1998 into 2002 was never going to go easily. with all the trigger selections you think the link could cope with extra timing pulses and even made better use than them than the stock unit. still doe'nt cover the wiring and sensor polarity issues the were not related to the cam wheel that was on motor,these were just as hard to solve if not harder to solve than the camwheel issue and thats what to me clearly doe'snt make it plug and play which is what was needed in this situation and what it was advertised to be. certainly a great unit when fully installed and set up and the basemaps and tables are extremely close to perfect,but not plug and play in any way shape or form. really getting sick of your crap comments on my post.

if i had the option i would have used a power FC which i recommend for most applications,unfortunately apexi did'nt make an fc for the 2002-2005 wrx which really sux.if it had been up to me a to choose an ecu for this car i would'nt have chosen a link,the car owner and the mate that sold him the engine bought the link G4+ cos it was cheap. yes link will get many "dumb questions" as you put it cos the G4+ is quite simply not a plug and play unit. as i said on another post /thread the only upside was that once all the "trigger"/cam sensor/crank sensor issues were sorted the car ran and drove with factory smoothness. i got plenty of other truck work on at the moment i did'nt need this shit,i told the people involved to get something plug and play cos i did'nt have 2 days + to set up a wire in ecu. the link G4+ is a top unit but it certainly is not plug and play in any way shape or form and it took time to set up i simply did'nt have.

got to the bottom of it and got car running to factory smoothness level although not fast at 8 psi,you miss my point as to doing light and heavy engine conversions and i find diesel tuning just as much fun as cars. not putting my whole resume up here,i prefer to build and work on nissan RB engines and only got involved in this to help out the 2 apprentice mechanics sort the engine swap. and my luck is extreme,it's extremely good or extremely bad,lifes like that the only upside of the whole thing is that once the trigger settings and sensor wiring worked out it ran really well on the supplied basemaps and tables with minimum tweaks to some trim settings etc

so do butt plugs apparently and i'm not about to try one of them either

car now sorted,runs well

yes car now runs fine,cam and crank sensor polarity being the final issue LOL

if it was'nt so fussy as to reluctor trigger signals it would'nt need the very useful diagnostic scope the engine was not put in the car by me,i had to make my own adapter plate out of alloy billet to run 2002 V9 throttle body on 1998 STI manifold,and made the throttle cable mount up to. if i was just a button pushing pretend fairy tuner i could understand your veiw,but i'm an all rounded who qualfied as a diesel mechanic back in 2002 on an adult apprenticeship and a current project is an engine conversion on a volvo truck(it's getting an 8.3 cummins ex generator engine).

while the vehicle is now up and running with the crank ans cam sensor polarity as the remaining issue. i maintain anything that needs wiring mods is not a plugin. seriously you even have to set the firing order and shit which is not how plug and play is supposed to operate. funny to hear from so many armchair and desktop tuners on this forum. yes the scope feature is very useful in diagnostics but if it was'nt so fussy as to trigger signals you would'nt need it. the only plus side is the car now runs quite smoothly for a so far untuned car,the basemaps and tables are actually pretty close. certainly was'nt fast first run out with only 8 psi boost but it was smooth with no peaks or dips in power. idle controls also work well but really the amount of time venturing into and enabling all the tables such as ect is a bit nuts no kidding i think thats the problem,it's set up is so broad it's a pain to set up,if it was a truly dedicated model specific plugin i would not have had issues

you act like i created this problem rather than getting involved once the engine was in the car and a non-starter yes that was a screen shot before wires wwere swapped over on cam sensor

yeah interesting that the 2002 wrx and 1998 sti motors that someone else swapped have the same early model cam wheels when they are both supposed to be later model ones LOL,don't know how either of them ran with stock computer/Apexi power FC,the 1998 sti motor was ex a written off japanese race car so that might explain a few bits that would'nt normally be there the only wanker here is you you are the only wanker here

tried as per supplied,does'nt power up when changed to sti settings as i said car ran with stock computer if you try and run trigger arming thresholds below 1.6 volts it doe'nt give a clean waveform on the scope and if links work "exceptionally well" with reluctor triggers then why is it in the help section as a problem and why are people accross the world having the same issue with this ecu?

how did it go for you?

head spacers went out in the 1980"s,custom pistons are affordable now

and was this sorted,i have same issue

got this issue with the WRX V7-10 G4+ plugin,identical issues to what your having,did you work it out? the car im working on ran with stock computer but not the G4+ no matter what the settings

i doubt it wil cause damage cos its the same wire with the same hardware,it's only the computers calibration of the signal that differs yeah tried this on subaru wrx V7-10,better triggerscope but same psuedo rpm spikes,timing scatter and misfire and trigger priority setting not avail in wrx V7-10 trigger menu and offset keys bodgy as fuck,i have never used one

and no after hours assistance from link really sux,the guy wanted his car back for the weekend'link knew we had issues on friday and seem more worried about chasing a few sheep around rather than assit a customer with a problem car ran on stock computer,doe'nt run with the link no matter what the trigger settings

yeah well it's funny then link has a section in trigger wheels where they say reluctors are a problem in some oem applications and there seems to be a few people around the world with the same install issues i have. i find you a bit suss JMP,no pics or anything to identify you,so i think your one of links forum flunkys talking rubbish from behind your keyboard, the only thing i agree on was that the ViPec plugin was awesome and worked well but the G4+ is a cheapo that cannot handle the reluctor issiues with BMW and subaru,and thats in the instruction manual,what has pissed me off is that link does'nt come out and say that you need to modify the trigger pick up reluctoe wheels,if they had i would have done so and not just plugged it in and try to start the car. this car ran on the stock ecu,nothing was changed and now the G4+ just gives bulk trigger 1 error,timing scatter and psudeau rpm splies with exxtra spurious injections which wet the plugs with fuel. i could have accepted i fucked up the install somehow except for the fact it ran on the stock computer and it doe'snt run with the link

so when you get down to it all you get from link is some vague BS about BMW and Subaru "getting it wrong" as far as link see's it with gapped tooth wheels LOL. there is clearly a known issue with these reluctor type sensors and the G4+ but apparently link finds it amusing to watch you try and get a car to start for days when link knew all along that it will never run with the stock reluctor discs without a few mods,and thats not what plugins are supposed to do. have tried every possible setting,which just results in random psudo RPM spikes,chronic timing scatter and bulk trigger 1 sensor errors,while i appreciate it is possible to get a link G4+ to run a V7-9 wrx it will not run an unmodified sensor disc set up and thats not how it's supposed to be with a plugin. link has tried to lock me out of this forum by not letting me sign in,hence this post under this name. i think link has engaged in deceptive sales conduct by selling a product with a known issue that they don't tell you about. also unhappy about not being able to upload my screen shots of the scope tracers which link obviously doesn't want people to see about the sync error the g4+ sees in the trace. tried all the BS in the forum changing polarity of first cam and then crank reluctor sensors,to no avail,makes no visable difference to the trigger 2 scopre trace at all LOL at this stage i will be telling owner of vehicle to return ecu for full refund unless he wants to pay extra unnessasary time and parts on what was supposed to be a plugin "pug and play" and that description in no way describes this product

seem to be having exact same issue with 2002 imprezza wrx with ej20t,and for the same polarity issues

then website uploaded them to gallery and promptly lost them seems to be the same problem as the BMW with the random rpm spikes further down this forum,will try that solution tomorrow.it worked on the cam sensor so hopefully will work on the crank sensor,post says G4+ not happy about cam syncing with gap instead of tooth on crank reluctor wheel

still no luck with trigger settings,can't find "trigger settings" that look like the ones in help menu nor "trigger settings" which seems to be the main problem. it pisses me off Apexi did'nt make a power FC for these model subarus,cos if they had i would have finished this car a week ago,link seems to fail to grasp what "plugin" actually means and i thought a haltech sport 2000 was difficult to set up but it's a bloody breeze compared to a G4+. i have to set filters to 3 or 4 to get any sensible rpm figures from the g4,and even then it generates huge trigger 1 sensor errors numbers when the engine tries to start,crank sensor seems to be 180 degrees out,cam sensor polarity had to be changed to get it to even try and start reliably,and reluctor voltage seems to be reading very low most of the time,and i can't see both of them being faulty,resistances were checked before installation. scope pics included,can anyone make sense of them?. and now links shit website does'nt want to upload my screen shots as i also had trouble logging in for a whole day,gotta say i'm becoming more pissed off and frustrated by all this