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I'm definitely now going to crunch the car on any speed breakers. LOL. Thanks for the information though. *If* this happens the next time and I'm in a position to have the car towed straight back to the shop, I'll try to hunt for the short. Just wanted to make sure that this is usual behaviour under the circumstances and the ECU is fine. Thanks Adam!

There's a bit of background I need to establish here, so apologies if this is slightly long. I was hooning around one night as usual and on the way back, ran into a couple of extremely lousy speed bumps in quick succession. If sounded like the downpipe and / or oil sump bore the brunt of the blows. After the second hit, I noticed my CEL and oil pressure warning light come on, and the engine died. When I broke out my laptop and connected to the ECU, imagine my surprise when every single sensor was spazzing out. Even the ECU temp read -12C, which it pretty much impossible. The root cause was the 5V supply malfunctioning. The real time display of the 5V supply read under 1V. The MAP sensor readout was swinging from -ve all the way to thousands of kPa. I naturally assumed that the hits must have shorted out a sensor and that was causing the 5V rail to keep cycling. However, I wasn't able to find anything obviously broken or damaged. Shaking the harness wherever it had some play didn't seem to change anything either, so that ruled out a loose contact. After about 30 minutes of futile attempts, I was ready to leave the car where it was (pretty close to my destination), and come back with a tow strap in the morning. However, I decided to give it one last shot and cranked the car, and was rewarded with a slight cough from the engine. So I continued cranking with the pedal mashed to the floor and the engine sputtered to life, even though the MAP was still all over the place. With the pedal still mashed all the way, I kept riding the clutch to get the car to move. It died thrice in the next 100m and probably pissed off the neighbourhood, but the fourth time around, while I was still trying to ride the clutch, everything seemed to come back to life just as suddenly as it had died, and the car started to run like a champ once again as if absolutely nothing had happened 30 minutes ago. The next day, I lifted the car and checked for underbody damage, and found absolutely nothing. All electrical components and connections were solid too. I started the car up and shook whatever I could, and the engine didn't skip a single beat. I'm not sure how to make sense of any of this. How could a sharp impact have caused this issue that seemed to solve itself? Is this something I should be worried about? Obviously, besides being more aware of my surroundings, should I also be looking out for something in the ECU? From what I gather, everything in the 5V loop is automotive grade and there are no moving parts here that can short on impact only to be magically fixed with no input from my end. Has anybody had a similar experience that can shed some light on this?

Thank you.

Another related question: if I've wired a fuel temp sensor to the ECU, is the density change automatically accounted for by the fuel model or do I need to set up a separate table for this? I ask because the block diagram in the help file did not seem to show a fuel temp input like it did for fuel pressure.

Thanks Adam. I think I understand. I was equating VE with cylinder filling. Per your explanation, VE for the most part - especially in boost - should be 100% or thereabouts, right?

Hi. I was curious about the reason why the max VE value in the fuel tables maxes out at 150. Wouldn't higher numbers be required for higher boost levels?

Ended up using a relay.

Thanks for the clarification Adam. I understand the warranty implications. Both my eThrottle outputs are free, and since you confirmed that they have active current limitation, I'll try combining the two of them.

Thanks Adam. What do you think of: 1. Using two combined injector outpputs and configuring them identically. 2. Using one of the eThrottle motor outputs. Also, from what I gather, both the above outputs are over current protected, right? Meaning I should be able to experiment without frying something in the ECU?

That would be Ignition output. Injector outs can deliver a max peak current of 10A. I'm just not sure if they can hold 7A continuously. I reckon eThrottle outputs could support this. Thanks! This looks interesting. However, it looks like the PMU is handling power in your case while the Link only provides a control signal. The pump I intend to use is a simple 2 pin affair that will kick on when a certain condition is true and remain that way.

Hi. As the title says, I'm planning to use a G4+ Thunder to drive a water pump in a W2A system. The pump I plan to use is one from a BMW M2C, and per the documentation, it draws 6-7 amp. Now I could wire a relay and get it over with, but in the interest of keeping things clean and simple I was wondering if I could wire it up directly to the ECU. I reckon an INJ or IGN output could be used for this purpose. Can somebody confirm? In case 6-7 amp is too high for a single output, could I join two of them together to supply the required current? Thanks in advance.

Thank you. I'll try this with the pull up resistor. The other method didn't seem to work.

Thank you. I'm located in India, but should be able to find some time when the car isn't going to be used and ship the ECU over.

The only info from the ECU they expect are RPM and VSS. The HDS scanner also expects a repeating VIN frame to be able to connect. Because no other modules are touched, they remain happy and chatty as usual. There are two major issues here 1. the cluster expects a speedo pulse from the ECU once every 10 meters to keep the odo ticking 2. The last byte of each frame is like a checksum, which must be valid, or the cluster rejects the entire frame and everything goes haywire. I've managed to figure out enough of the logic to have the Macchina compute this byte and keep the cluster alive. Besides these, everything else is fairly straightforward.

Hello. I've spent a considerable amount of time analyzing the CAN data for a Civic FD2 in order to retain the stock cluster functionality. Now I can operate it with a G4+ Thunder and without requiring the stock ECU to be present on the CAN bus. There are some quirks of the Honda protocol that cannot be defined using CAN Manager, so I use CAN Manager to put the bulk of the data on the bus, pick it up with a Macchina M2, do the required transformation and retransmit. I was wondering if you would be Keen to incorporate this logic into the Thunder directly. This will hold good for a lot of Honda's with CAN driven clusters.