MagicMike

Sounds like a bug that needs fixing on G4+ to me, can't be that hard!

I have a Z32 aswell, and I've found this forum to be extremely helpful. You are not going to be able to copy and paste a fuel table in and expect it to be any better than what you have now, you need to follow the advice, spend the time and get numbers in boxes that suit your setup.

Hm that's a shame. Might have to go right through everything and see if I can free up some inputs. I've got one for fuel level pencilled so not too concerned with that, trying to kill more than one bird with one stone. So no chance of the wheel speed to CAN being useful for traction etc? Any documentation floating around I can read? CAN switching inputs be used in virtual Aux's?

I've been thinking about the best way to get a few more inputs especially (switches or voltage), but outputs would be a bonus. Is there something link recommend or have had good success with? Something like the ECUmaster CAN Switchboard or the CANchecked version? I like that the CANchecked version has sensor smoothing (fuel level). https://www.ptmotorsport.com.au/product/can-checked-cfe18-can-bus-function-extender/ The other product that I find interesting is the MFD28 display that offers CAN switching, along with a few inputs and outputs. I like the idea of having touch button switches, I wouldn't use it for the data. https://www.ptmotorsport.com.au/product/can-checked-mfd28-can-display/ https://www.canchecked.de/can-bus-switching/ Finally, I've seen threads on CAN speed sensors adapters. Ideally, looking for one to hook into the older nissan ABS system. Has anyone had much experience in any of these units? What other cool CAN devices are people using?

Because of the metric system

Is it still generally accepted that CLBoost is not great and the 'passive open loop' is better?

I'd turn off ignition idle control. It seems to be keeping your idle stable when active. In the log and file you posted, the speed lockout is 20kmh. As soon as the speed is greater than that everything goes weird. Removing it could help identify other things at play.

Ok cool I thought we only had one CAN, perfect, thanks Adam

Hi all, I'm looking at a fancy steering wheel with LED's and a bluetooth OBD2 connector. I've seen that an OBD2 connector can be wired in via CAN, but I'm already using 2 x link CAN Lambda units. Can I wire in an OBD2 on the same BUS? Will this interrupt anything in my car PC dash (windows, PClink via usb)? Thanks! Mike

Me 3

You'll need either aftermarket sensors, or a frequency converter.

My amateur experience with those injectors is that all of the data supplied with any vendor is not great. Generally the injectors aren't very good at low pulse widths.

+1

Interesting that my ECU displayed battery voltage is generally about .5v lower than actual battery voltage, and I've been having CAN lambda errors aswell.

I got all kinds of errors when connecting straight to the battery, and lambda 1 dropped off as well. I can't explain WTF was happening, existing accessory feed from the ECU and direct from the battery were supplying the same voltage. I've ordered new sensors anyway, hopefully it goes away.

Is there any documentation regarding the errors reported and what they mean or why? I've had 2 units installed for 10+ months, working perfect. Last week, lambda 2 dropped to a 0.000 reading on my dash. After a quick data log, I see it is cycling. Error 2 and status 'diagnostics' for about 1 second Error 2 and status 'calibration' for 20 seconds Error 16 heated too long and status 'diagnostics' for ~0.5 seconds Error 48 APE and status 'diagnostics' for ~ 0.5 seconds and then back to Error 2 and status 'diagnostics' for 1 second Lambda temp is 0 while reporting diagnostic status, and ranges from 65 to 156 while reporting calibration. Any ideas before I start pulling things apart? Edit: I just read the manual and see the codes. APE over voltage, what does that mean? I assume I'll need to put the car up on the hoist and look at the connectors/wiring near the sensors? Pleases and thank yous. Edit 2: Going back a few months into some other logs, I see a few instances of error 26 battery under voltage. What is the significance of this? I ask because I can't log easily during cranking, and the lowest battery voltage I have in any logs is 13.2V I have a 90minute log from Jan 21 where it reports error 26 the entire time, and battery voltage is above 13.2 the entire time, and lambda 2 is displaying as expected. At what point do the sensors check for errors or go back to reporting 'OK' if no errors are there?

Thanks Adam, that's what I'm asking. Can it be made selectable? This would also help on all the other cars that don't have a native non driven wheel speed source.

Unless I'm missing something, that is only for E-throttle? Which I don't have. I don't have any idle air valves, all deleted. I only use idle ignition control for idle. G4+.

I've just finished chasing my tail a bit, and found that the speed signal used for idle lockout is non driven wheel speed. Is there a reason driven wheel speed is not an option? It would make sense to have the speed lockout working for all cars without a non driven speed source surfaced in the ECU natively? This was problematic for me, because the sensor I added on the front right must be a little bit dirty, at low or no speeds, it was registering some random speeds, which was causing jerky, erratic idle while the timing used was jumping from ign 1 to idle ignition table. The sensor was working pretty ok for other functions, but I've had to disable it now because of the influence it has on idle. Spent ages looking for everything else before I found the non driven wheel speed feed. So, can we get driven wheel speed? Or any other selectable lockout? Please

Replied to your PM. Idle on 98 is good and AFR is well controllable (compared to 1650s). I like them, and the ID data works well.

Can anyone confirm that mapper's method is still relevant? Nothing changed in subsequent versions that would disrupt?

Agree, NZEFI, I bought 2 from there a couple of weeks ago.

Changed to acc power, did as Adam said above re setup, works perfect. Easy when you know how! Thanks again!

Thanks mate, I'll give that a try tonight and report back. Cheers!

Got the first module connected and working fine, but can't get the 2nd online. Using a NZ EFI dual CAN harness with termination resistor. Any tips? What ID should the second unit use if the first is 950? Also, re power wiring, my previous setup was triggered with fuel pump on, is this still ok with the Link units? Or can I switch to accessory power if the link takes care of sensor heating?