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Sheik

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Everything posted by Sheik

  1. Thanks Adam. References to the original harness are totally pointless because there is none of it left... Ive overcooked this one right and proper. Also it says (past) next to your Tech Support title... say it isnt so!? You've moved on? T_T Gonna try DM this mess to you. You might need this to see it: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=51188 Not expecting you to make sense of it. I'll just have to sit down and have a good look through it all again one day if you cant spot something stupid. Cheers.
  2. Hi All. Pretty sure this is an AdamW question... but throwing it out regardless. I need someone to take a look at my map and wiring diagram to tell me why my ECU isn't firing my main relay. I have push-button start wired up, but its working off the key at the moment until a button goes in later. The issue isnt with 'starting', its from when the key is in the ON position and the main relay isnt working. The ECU is getting power because of the way the wiring is set up to provide 12v via a DI - but its not activating the main relay in order to keep itself online after key-off or to power any of the other relays. Map attachedGSR Basemap.pclr, but I will only send the wiring diagram to someone via DM to someone who has some knowledge in the area. Its a full engine harness diagram done in Visio so its not something I really want to put up for public consumption. A) Because it took a fair bit of effort, and B) Because it might be totally wrong and guide people down a bad path. :) I'm very interested to know whether I have the polarity correct on the ECU Hold Power output but nobody is probably going to know that unless they see the wiring diagram first. Just keen to know if I can change the polarity to test if it fires things up but im afraid I might cook something. Cheers.
  3. Had a win with this and got it working with the correct data stream settings. Just curious, does anyone know a trick to swapping between RealDash and PCLink? I note that once you have connected to PCLink you need to restart the device before it'll talk to RealDash again. Definitely not a major issue but would be convenient if there was a solution.
  4. Can I just say thanks for posting this. I have had an ongoing issue for a long time which has been too minor to fix but still caused immense irritation. There was basically a very soft 'shudder' coming off or coming back onto throttle. I thought this was due to be botching the accel enrichment or my lumpy cams. I put 15 degrees per second in for ignition retard and set reduction/introduction time to 1 second. Has completely smoothed out my throttle transitions. I am extremely grateful for having this solved and frustrated beyond belief for not having looked at these settings sooner knowing it was the overrun transitions where the issue was occurring.
  5. Having had both setups myself, I wasted a fair few brain cycles on this one myself... Going to rant the whole lot out here for you. When I had my plugin installed I made use of the onboard MAP although it bothered me a fair bit. Unlike most situations, I was sorely lacking holes through the firewall on my car which left me routing the vac line all the way around to the side of the engine bay, down the inside of the fender and in the passenger footwell. It was a good 3meter or so run of hose. Being relatively ignorant as far as maths/science goes, I asked a friend of mine who was very much that way inclined what kind of a delay that would place between the pressure change in my manifold and the ECU being able to read it. He said it would account for between 10 and 12ms of delay (based on speed of sound for air movement over the distance of the line). Depending on your background, thats going to sound like an eternity or non-existent to you. To me, it was quite a large number. This is the time it takes BEFORE THE ECU CAN REACT to the change. So I would then expect there to be another few ms before the ECU can implement a change. Depending on what kind of build you have, I feel you could possibly run into some issues here, but my theory is you would need to be running something thats got bonkers power figures and is capable of extreme changes in manifold pressure within a very short window. In that kind of an environment, one could theorise there is capacity for the engine to run lean due to the VE calculations "lagging behind" the actual intake pressure. I could also be drastically overthinking it. I would expect that there are going to be people a lot more scientifically inclined or even just someone with more first-hand experience with the matter who could tell us more. Not long back, I changed from the plugin to a wire-in with an external MAP and a very short vac line run. What I can tell you from my own experience from having installed and tuned both is that there was no observable difference (to my albeit inexperienced perceptions) in my 300-400hp Evo.
  6. Apologies for resurrecting a dead thread here but this just saved me asking a question parallel to it anyway. I just bought a pre-made A Loom which had all the "sensor ground" pins terminated to a "shield ground" pin. The wiring diagrams in the help file said as much, but its nice to have a confirmation that they are both technically the same thing once they are inside the ECU.
  7. You can use the Pinout Diagram along with the Installer IO Table (also in Help) to determine what can be wired up where. A safe strategy would be to fill in the Installer IO Table with your required sensors/outputs/etc so they are all certain to work. It was something I didnt do with my first build and I ended up chasing my tail a bit. Some things need to be on specific pins (ie. aux 5/6/7/8 for a stepper motor and DI 1-4 for flex sensors, etc)
  8. In the Help section of the PC-Link software. You will probably be able to search through it and find any other bits and pieces there too. Extremely well documented (pun intended).
  9. I am a total spud. Didn't notice the PDF. Will give it another crack.
  10. I had no luck with it on Windows 10 via USB tuning cable either. If anyone has got this working on the same config please let me know what data settings you used so I can test out. Cheers.
  11. Sheik

    AFR problem at idle

    Following - I have similar but less dramatic symptoms myself and have the same setup (onboard LSU 4.9 digital wideband). Mine has swings from around 0.97 down to sometimes ~0.91 after running for a while. I have pressure and temp data from fuel and oil so I have a little more to work with. Ultimately, I am chalking it down to not having proper data for my injectors. They are running at 1.4% DC (similar to what your log is showing) at idle and I dont think its possible for the pull enough fuel out when responding to fuel temp/intake charge temp. Due to it still being quite within reason and not generating any negative effects (poor idle/smoke/etc), I can ignore it in my case, but what you are facing sounds more significant. Just giving you an idea of what I logged and observed when trying to resolve the issue myself.
  12. Cheers - rather be double checking than getting it wrong and frying my ECU/Coils.
  13. Thanks for the reply Moto. Good news on the relay. As for the coils, I think the Evo ones might be a little different unless I am missing something critical? I have coils the same as the ones on this site: https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=26831&cat=1060 I have attached the wiring diagram from the electrical manual - it doesn't seem to have anything between the ECU and the signal post of the coil. I am hoping there are no surprises I am missing?
  14. Hi All In the middle of a bit of a flavorsome project - I am working on a 4WD Lancer GSR thats had a 4G63T swap done to it. The car had a factory ECU and a Microtech piggyback in it until which looked like it was a pretty reasonable setup for back when it went in, but leaves a lot to be desired now. I am working on wiring in a G4+ Extreme at present and have a few questions which I want to ask to possibly simplify my job. There are lots of sensors various fruit going in along with the new ECU. One thing thats being done is an upgrade to a set of Evo 7 OEM coil packs. Am I right in assuming that the J722T Igniter Module is now no longer necessary? I am just running power and ground to the new coils and a signal wire direct from the ECU? Secondly, I have a massive chunky double-relay which was situated down the bottom-left of the center console which I believe is the Multiport Fuel Injection Relay... The owner recently replaced the unit at great expense (due to the car failing to start and audible noise directing him to the issue). I should be fine to delete this yes? The fuel pump has already been separated and given its own relay which can be triggered by the ECU, which means that if I just add another standard relay in for the injectors, the MFI Relay will no longer be necessary correct? Does it do anything else im missing? I have plenty of spare ignition channels so I dont see any issues here, but my knowledge has many holes in it. Also more than happy to hear of any other hurdles I am likely to hit with this particular build if anyone wants to chime in! Cheers
  15. Just posting back on this one - I went in and had a crack at adding a 3d table into my MAP Limit with a Y-axis for differential fuel pressure as suggested by AdamW. Thanks for the mint suggestion. Means I have Fuel, AFR and Oil covered.
  16. Literally just went through this last week setting all of mine up. You have to choose between fuel pressure and AFR because oil occupies one of them and you wouldn't skip that. My take-away from it was that you can cover a lot more issues (such as injector failure rather than just fuel pressure failure) by doing AFR protection rather than fuel pressure.
  17. Hi All, I am hoping to hear some people share their thoughts and strategies on how they do Fuel-based engine protection and get a little bit of info on how the Link ECU handles duty cycle. For background, I have Sequential Injection mode with Modelled Multi fuel and FP Sensor for Fuel System Type. With the Link ECU, how is the duty cycle calculated? The reason I ask this is that I was considering using it for engine protection if they were to adjust based on fuel requirements (and thus, drastically increasing in duty cycle if the fuel pressure/supply were to drop), then inj DC% could be used as a means of engine protection? Given the option of fuel pressure, Lambda, or Injector DC%. What one do you guys use? Cheers
  18. +3 either via a "save all" button or by electing a Logs folder where they are all saved automagically.
  19. Sheik

    Evo Thunder Wiring

    As it turns out, the Speedo was working after having fixed the Tacho on Pin 45, but I didnt make the car move fast enough to 'wake it up'. Its a Mitsubishi thing... Once I got it out on the road it sorted itself out again. I am declaring this project a success! A great many thanks for your support AdamW. Once again you are a tribute to the company and its great to have this kind of support available to people like myself. Thanks to Clint for pitching in as well. It all helps. As is with the first time around for anything like this, you come out the other end with a long list of things you would have done differently. But having ironed out all the kinks in my Visio diagram, Version 2.0 will definitely be an improvement. Certainly not scheduled for anytime soon though... Need to forget how annoying some of it was. If anyone is reading this and mad enough to have the same intentions, drop me a line. I am sure I could save you a fair bit of time.
  20. Sheik

    Evo Thunder Wiring

    Well Pin 45 got terminated to Aux 2 and is working as expected now... unfortunately my Speedo is still AWOL. Any final suggestions here before I have to start digging deep??? Hell it could even be a fuse at this point. Ultimately it was working on the PnP... So I presume there was some trick used with that but whether its documented, or you can disclose it, or if I can replicate it, is another thing.
  21. Sheik

    Evo Thunder Wiring

    Cool to hear and explains why it doesn't exist anywhere. Based on a couple of electrical diagrams I have seen while looking around, I think your theory about sharing VSS signal might end up being on point. There are a lot of crossovers between the Tacho and speedo gauges so based on the fact that both functioned fine with the plugin, putting Pin 45 on an Aux may just fix both of them. Tomorrow is another day. Thanks once again.
  22. Sheik

    Evo Thunder Wiring

    Alright - little further down the line now. She starts!!! Its all behaving well so far. Only catch/issues that I can identify is that my Tacho and Speedo are not working. I am asking here first on the off-chance that this is an ECU problem... There is between little and no information on either of these in the Link Pinout Guides/Pin Function sheets and only one very isolated reference to Tacho on Pin 45 on a wiring diagram I have. There doesn't seem to be any reference to Speedo or Tacho outputs on the Plug'n'Play either so I am getting the feeling this is not something you guys can answer, but it would be great to eliminate it being an ECU thing. Cheers.
  23. Sheik

    Evo Thunder Wiring

    Yep you nailed it. Was not sure about all the main relay stuff at all. All the messing around with wiring has probably has saved me pain elsewhere though as the 12v is better distributed. Everything is behaving itself now. Not entirely sure how the ECU let me test most of the inputs/outputs without any power going to the 2 main spots. Glad I didnt axe anything. The strangest thing that happened throughout the I/O testing was the Aux3 for the boost control solenoid was somehow triggering the fuel pump... Behaves fine now that there is actual power. Thanks once again for the amazingly prompt seemingly 24/7/365 support.
  24. Sheik

    Evo Thunder Wiring

    Thanks Adam, I just re-wired things a little. It made no substantial difference so I am starting to think there is nothing specifically wrong with the 12v wiring but rather the relay triggering. With the previous testing, I had both the A and B looms spliced and joined to Pin 47 (dont ask me why...I quite honestly dont know). I have since moved the B-Loom to Pin 59. I now have the A-Loom on 47 and the B-Loom on 59. Results were still as follows: 12v internal - 11.3 Aux 9/10 - 1.3 Aux 17/20 - 12.29 Batt Voltage - 1.3 This at least confirmed that BOTH of the main 12v runs are doing nothing. So it draws me back to the main engine relay config and I can already see some things that are probably wrong. For starters, I have the Main Relay Driver set to OFF and Ignition Switch is set to HIGH and by the looks of the diagram I think its supposed to be low??? I have terminated the "Ign Sw" to pin 99 and "Main Relay+" to Pin 57 as you suggested. Can you give me some guidance on where to look for such things and what to set them to? I currently have no e-Throttle fitted. I have just run power to all channels for future use. Many thanks.
  25. Sheik

    Evo Thunder Wiring

    Okay - So we are much further down the rabbit hole now with this project. Plenty of hurdles and still a few to go before I can turn the key. I have hit a couple I would love some external input on because I am scratching my head a lot. I am putting the questions here because they are going to be too obscure for their own thread. In order: The most concerning one is my 12v power readings in the ECU. I am getting the following: - Multimeter (straight onto the battery) 11.82v - 12v internal (in ECU Runtimes - A-Loom???) 10.93v - 12v D-Loom Supply (in ECU Runtimes) 11.85v -12V B-Loom Supply (in ECU Runtimes) 3.41v Now for the D-Loom, I have run a brand new 12v constant. Hence that delicious reading there. For the A-Loom and B-Loom, I have just joined them with a crimp splice onto the existing 12v harness pin. I am assuming 12v internal is referenced to the A-Loom input. You can imagine my confusion when I have the 12v internal reading 10.93v (which is a bit low but not terrible) while the B-Loom is reading 3.41v off the exact same wire. Does this mean its overloaded??? Haven't even started the car yet. If anybody can give me a good reason for this it would be much appreciated. At the moment, I am re-crimping the join to see if it was somehow a trash join despite getting zero resistance over it. Failing any kind of success from the re-crimp, I am going to most likely move the B-Loom 12v supply over to the D-Loom. Off the back of that, can anyone tell me how many amps each of these 12v ECU rails take??? I very much doubt its an issue but I dont want to overload the wire I am using or fuse it wrong. This is kind of outside of the initial project scope. If there are any bored souls out there this Good Friday that can answer this and keep me working there will be some good karma headed your way. Thanks in advance!
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