Vaughan

are you power cycling the CAN Lambda after changing it's bit rate? Are you setting it's bit rate in the CAN Devices tab?

You have the CAN Keypad channel ID set to 384, this needs to be set to 384 plus the keypad Node ID which by default is 21 giving a channel ID of 405

Things to confirm would be trigger pattern and injector type. If it is has solenoid type DI injectors then it should work with a Voodoo Pro and our DI box soon to be released. If you have access to a factory car running that motor and an oscilloscope with a current probe you would be able to measure the peak and hold currents required for the injectors and high pressure fuel pump and the boost voltage required for the injectors which is important information.

serial connection to G4X ECUs works, you have to use the the Serial pins on the CAN 1 connector. It didn't work for a while there but was fixed several versions ago. It is also painfully slow.

Any of Aux 1-10 or a spare injector output. I can't look at a pinojt right now to confirm which pin the ac clutch is bit you would have to use the wire going into the relay not the output of the relay.

Attach a picture of the inside of the ecu please

Hook it up to an analog input with a pullup to 5v on the input too (I assume the resistors pull to ground). Unsure of what resistance pullup you would want without sitting down and doing some math. You could also use a spare an temp input which has a built in pullup of 1k for temp 3 and 4 or selectable pullup of 1k, 10k or no pullup on temp 1 and 3.

There is a known issue with the nb2 plugin where it needs a diode added, get in touch with tech support please

Change it to something more like 0.5% or 1%

There is indeed, note how it is in engine cycles not seconds.

you can send the APS in over CAN (or other analogs) if the input count is an issue.

Your low rpm lockout is set to 800rpm and I'm seeing it drop below that at the start of each of those lockouts

yes the ECU has a single 5V regulator and this is connected to all of the 5V pins

I have just been informed that apparently this was done so that people could use either their old 5 pin or the new 4 pin. Technically if you are trying to use both plugs one of them shouldn't have a cable length from it of anymore than 15cm but it would probably be fine to use both CAN 1 plugs simultaneously. I'll get the help manual updated to suit this as I was not aware the 5 pin connector was staying as well as the two 4 pin connectors being fitted.

Which plugin is this with a 4 pin JST and a 5pin JST? I was under the impression they are all either both 5 pin (older plugins) or both 4 pin (newer plugins). The pinout of the bottom board should be the same between your old plugin and new plugin so you should just be able to use the cables you had already. Both CAN buses on the ECU have their own internal 120ohm resistor so you can use either for all devices (if all devices are running at the same bus rate) or you can split up the devices between the two.

The Aux outputs output a solid ground and a weak pullup to 12V not an actual 12v signal and so should be safe.

Crank trigger pattern should be no problem. The cams however could prove very annoying given the sensor type with the erratic positive and negative spikes. Are the positive spikes on the cams getting above 1.8v? They look like they aren't and there is no zero crossing to rely on for normal reluctor style control. Is it possible to fit more generic hall sensors to get nice square waves on the cams? Also how far do the cams swing? Depending on where the teeth are relative to the crank you should be able to cam window it with a regular hall style signal.

I have never used an EPS controller so can't say with any real certainty that it will accept the speed and tacho signal directly from the ECU but I would definitely recommend trying it and seeing if it works. Note you can use the test PWM function to send particular frequencies out without having the vehicle running or driving to see if it works.

Are you using a plugin or a wirein ECU? it looks like the plugin ECU isn't wired to a radiator temperature sensor at all. Also are you sure it is a temperature sensor in the radiator not a temperature switch?

does your laptop make a noise when you plug the USB cable in, is the ECU showing up in the device manager, what settings do you have setup in Options -> Connection?

Looks like your overrun fuel cut is kicking in. What TP/AP Threshold value do you have in Fuel -> Overrun Fuel Cut -> Overrun Fuel Cut?

You'll need to use a relay to supply the power to the fan and you can use any Aux to trigger this, Ignition 7 was used to trigger the AC relay so you can reuse this and you may be able to reuse the AC relay as well depending on how it is wired.

Are you already outputting a tacho signal to the factory dash? Do you still have the factory dash and is it outputting a speed signal still? Based on dealing with Toyotas previously you should just be able to use the regular Aux outputs

ECU side of the setup is explained in the ECU help manual

ah no, didn't read that bit sorry, semi sequential needs cam sync. In terms of firing order affecting multi point injection wiring it shouldn't really make any real difference, higher injection count per cycle will deliver fuel more evenly per cylinder but higher counts also make it harder to inject smaller volumes due to minimum pw being applied multiple times.