Vaughan

Your PC Log shows that it is trying to fire the coils and injectors. To get the trigger scope runtimes you need to use the ECU Controls -> Trigger SCope function and click capture while the engine is cranking.

Have you set the ignition timing with a timing light?

Have you done the APS calibration? Can you take a PC Log of you moving the pedal between 0% and 100% and attach it here please.

Doesn't look like it's flatlining, don't have your tune but assume you're max is set to 45deg. Which gauge do you have? Best way to connect it to ECU is CAN if that is an option, gauges with separate grounds for the ECU signal than the power ground are not terrible, gauges with no separate analog signal ground will always be terrible.

How accurate is the Lambda reading compared to the gauge? Seems very rich everywhere. Also the ECT Ignition trim is advancing the ignition angle not retarding it (positive values not negative).

Graphical issues are compiler related and so not something we can change in the code, more of a look to see if they have been fixed since by various updates to the build computer. It's also not something I've seen on my own computer so isn't necessarily going to be the easiest to test if it has been fixed. No current plans to remove the ECU selection box, it does work better in Manual mode as auto mode will try and fail when you power cycle ECU or disconnect and so lose the selected ECU. There are some setting around directories in the options menu with tick boxes and editable directory paths. Do you have the boxes ticked or not (ticked means always use that folder, unticked means go to last place you opened that type of file from). I don't think that setup changed at all on the G5 update stuff.

Which engine do you have? Quick google shows the RS3 uses the Bosch HDEV5.2 which we have the current and voltage data for. The RS3 high pressure fuel pump we don't explicitly have data for yet but a quick scope with a current trace will show it's peak and hold current values. You will also need to measure your high pressure pump cam lobe shape and find the angle of the top of one of the lobes relative to tdc of cyl 1 when cam is in it's rest position. Hardware wise we have 4cylinder box on the way with built in fuel pump peak and hold driver but I don't have any specific timing as to when this will be available to purchase. I would also assume that the XBow has a CAN bus system which will need reverse engineering so that we can replicate what the factory ECU transmits and receives.

We don't have any spare units left at this point but production should be starting soon, might be best to get in touch with the sales team to see if they can let you know when they'll have them available.

That's looking a lot happier and I can see you have the sensor wired the correct way around, it should spark correctly while cranking now.

that scope looks like you clicked capture before you started cranking instead of while you were cranking but it caught some teeth right at the end. Change your Trigger 1 arming voltage table 500RPM cell to 0.2V as your tooth voltage is pretty low.

pin #4 triggers the relay by going to ground when pin 36 is connected to ignition switched power. if you don't have the factory ECU this won't be happening though, to see if it fixes anything try grounding pin 4 and see if that turns on the power to various components on the engine

Your trigger settings are wrong, it never syncs properly. To confirm do you only have a 36-2 trigger wheel on the crank connected to Trigger 1 and nothing connected to trigger 2? How many wires does your trigger sensor have? 2 or 3? Do a trigger scope and attach it here, ecu controls -> Trigger scope and then press capture once the engine is cranking and keep cranking until the trace shows up, save it and attach here. Your more recent log does seem to show it syncing but I still want to see an actual trigger scope. You can test your timing light by doing an ignition test as this will just continually trigger the coil without needing to crank the car

sweet, trace it all out, to confirm though how have you determined there is no spark, have you removed a spark plug , fitted it to a coil, grounded the thread and turned on the ignition test? Or are you checking for spark with a timing light on the test loop?

If they're not firing when using the ignition test mode then you will need to check your wiring, are you still using the factory igniter?

That sounds a lot like the injectors not the coils. Is it the spark/coil that is not working or the injectors?

I can see Closed Loop Lambda maxing out, I suspect you have an exhaust leak upstream of the wideband which causes it to read lean and then the CLL tries to correct by adding a bunch of fuel which makes it run badly.

The trigger scope is the correct way to check trigger sensor outputs, multimeter will just show you an average voltage over a reasonably long time, not the actual waveform. Have you seen the engine speed in PCLInk drop to 0 while holding it at a high RPM? do you have any logs of this? if so attach a log showing this and a copy of your basemap. In terms of the PCLink connection issues what spark plugs and ignition system are you using? PCLink connection issues at higher engine speeds can often be attributed to ignition noise. There were also some hardware improvements made for improving PC comms which early plugins don't have, attaching a picture of the ECU's top board and the serial number would let us confirm if your ECU has these modifications or not.

There is some trigger and firing order info in the PCLink help file (as pictured below), if using factory injectors you could use a traditional based fuel tune with a master fuel of maybe 10-15ms to start with, other than that generic fuel and ignition tables from one of the EVO sample maps should be enough to get it started and running once you have tested your wiring and found the correct trigger offset with a timing light.

The ECU output isn't PWM, it is synchronous to the engine speed where it turns on and off at very specific angles relative to the specific cam the pump is on, if your PDM can do peak and hold control and you can guarantee a consistent and small deadtime between the ECU output and the PDM output then yes you could do it with the PDM. If you want to try running a constant but higher current through it then maybe a FET or a solid state relay with a smaller or no ballast resistor would work. Just to reiterate from memory the Life setup had ~6A of peak current and 2.68A of hold current. To make it move you most likely require close to that 6A of peak and so if you ran a FET or solid state relay with appropriate ballast resistance to get 5-6A you could just run it at that full current the whole time and then keep an eye on whether or not you overheat the pump solenoid. Alternatively we are in the testing phases of our DI drivers which include a pump driver but I'm not sure when they are going to be available for purchase.

Probably best to attach a copy of your tune, have you done an ignition and injection test to ensure that cyl 1-4 injectors work when using inj1-4 test respectively and the same for cyl 1-4 spark with ignition 1-4 tests respectively.

Given that your fuel table is doesn't seem to get above 41, apart from 3 weird cells in overrun, you might be better off with a master fuel of 8ms and doubling the values in the fuel table. This will give you more resolution to play with. Also I suspect those weird fuel table values in overrun are due to it misfiring because of very low vacuum and so reading lean.

I'm not the most knowledgeable with Subaru's but yes it looks like earlier vehicles get AC Request through a physical pin and later vehicles through the CAN bus, I have clarified this in the pinout diagrams.

Your E-Throttle is jamming shut, in the 2nd log you do a blip and when it goes to shut the throttle it overshoots and goes all the way to 0% where it stays. A lower minimum clamp would reducer how hard it closes it but I would say you need to visually inspect your throttle to see why it is staying jammed shut even when you are trying to open it as hard as possible.

I would recommend changing Trig 2 edge to Falling and then checking your base timing with a timing light. Also as a side note your firmware is quite old.

Can you attach a copy of your basemap and a trigger scope please