Vaughan

Find a really basic one to use, if you do it on the power to the coil it could be picking up when other coils fire Also do the ignition test and look for spark at the spark plug to prove that you got the ignition lead in properly

Yes your staged rpm lockout is 2700rpm but your staging table is all 0s which is what I was referring to.

I wouldn't recommend toughing the ignition Main -> Spark Edge setting unless you know that the ford coils don't use the standard falling edge that 99% of ignition coils use. That is an excellent way to melt coil packs and your previous investigations seem to indicate that it is sparking correctly and the coil packs haven't melted so falling edge is most likely correct. For your setting your base timing you NEED to be clamping your timing light over an ignition lead between the coil pack and spark plug, not over the power lead to the coil or anything else. For engines with Coil on plug you need to pull the cylinder 1 coil out and push an ignition lead into the end of the coil pack boot with the other end to the spark plug, use the ignition test to confirm the connection is good and that the timing light signal is working.

Have you wired ignition drive 1 to cylinder 1, ignition drive 2 to cyl2 and so on? When calibrating the ignition timing with a timing light have you made a pair of tdc marks on the crank pulley by measuring near tdc for cyl 1with a dial gauge on both sides of tdc and then splitting the difference. Once you have that tdc mark for cyl 1 did you connect a timing light between the ignition 1/cyl 1 coil and the spark plug and then connect PCLink to the ECU, open the "set base timing" window, set the first box to 0deg, pressed enter and then cranked it over while the "set base timing" window is open to confirm that the spark happens right on that cyl 1 tdc mark? This is best done with fuel off and needs to be done with a timing light with no offset configured within it.

with sync tooth set to 1 it would have been syncing in the wrong half of the cycle half the time which would explain popping out the intake. That means that now it should be syncing in the same half always so if it is still popping out the intake then use try the trigger offset that is 360 from your current one (-325 to -323 based on your above numbers). Injection timing won't be causing a pop out the intake, the pop has to be caused by the intake valve being open when the spark ignites which means that it is sparking near the top of the exhaust stroke not the compression stroke.

Fuel table has some odd holes in it and you're not using bringing in the secondary injectors ever, lambda target table is a bit odd and I'm sure there'll be other things too but nothing specific to it not starting if it was starting on that tune previously to you fixing an inlet air leak.

Looking at your latest V1.2 basemap: turn off the injector drive reallocation, you've changed the ordering back to normal but best to turn off the setting in the Fuel main window too. You are still using the IAT Fuel trim and warm up enrichment table which both of which are accounted for in the charge temp table and so should be off. Out of curiosity are your port injectors high impedance or low impedance injectors? do you have a part number or brand/model name for them? Your Trigger 1 Sync Tooth is wrong, it should be set to 7 Your trigger offset is still set to 37, change your trigger 1 sync tooth first and redo your timing first though. The big take away from that though is that Triggers -> Trigger 1 -> Sync Tooth is still set to 1 instead of to 7 like I specified yesterday so fix that and then redo your timing with a timing light and if it pops out the intake still after that then change your trigger offset by 360deg.

You can double check timing with a timing light and if you want to avoid flooding it for a test you can turn off fuel and use a little starter fluid to see if it fires up. Can also do Ignition and injection tests if you want to check the wiring, there is no smoking gun that I can see in the tune or log so it'll be something basic or something silly that was altered when you fixed the intake leak. I did notice that it's not really drawing any vacuum when cranking as shown by the MAP sensor but I would have to see a log form before the issue to confirm that is a change.

injection angle shouldn't be a big issue for starting but ignition angle would be, definitely check to make sure everything is wired correctly. Also please upload a tune as well whenever you upload a log so that I know exactly what the settings were for that log.

Best to wire it as above, turn off injector drive reallocation and then test each injector using the injector test function to confirm injectors are wired correctly and then also check that ignition1-6 are wired to cylinder 1-6 respectively using the ignition test functionality.

The screenshot above is from your log, the PW value on the secondary's says it is triggering the secondary injector outputs. I have just noticed you have Injector drive reallocation turned on now with injector drives 7-12 ordered differently, why have you done this? For reference injectors should be wired Inj 1-6 to DI Inj on cylinders 1-6 and inj7-12 to port injectors on cylinders 1-6 respectively. have you done an injector test on injector 7-12 to make sure the injectors are operating correctly and are wired to the correct cylinders?

CAN instructions are in the gauge manual, https://linkecu.com/documentation/Can Gauge Online Manual.pdf. G4+ has different multi and offset values than G4X so the extended streams will need a slightly different setup but the generic dash part is all the same. Might be best to send an email directly to gauge art ([email protected]) as they will be best suited to help with app issues.

engine speed is working and it is injecting fuel and firing the coils, no cuts are happening. Is it perhaps flooded?

need to see a trigger scope to check what the trigger 2 settings should be. The maximum advance warning means that the ignition angle that is being requested by the ignition table and all the trims is greater than the Ignition -> Ignition Main-> Ignition Main -> Maximum Advance setting. you need to upload any logs and basemaps to something like google drive or onedrive and share a link to them.

Your ECU is being back-fed power through Aux 4, either connect the other side of the boost solenoid to an ign switched 12v source or use a spare Ign or Inj pin instead of Aux 4.

It's putting fuel in on the secondaries as it should be, how have you wired the injectors? Do the injectors tick on cranking? Do you have fuel pressure? What indicates to you that it isn't putting fuel in?

You've run out of forum storage, upload your log to one drive or google drive and share a link to it

You will need to set the Staged Injection -> Sec PW Lockout to 0.00ms, set the Staged Injection -> RPM Lockout to 0RPM and set the Staged Injection -> Secondary Injection Staging Table values to 100%. This will make it start and run on just port injectors. If you can point to the bit of literature I can clarify or correct it.

Minimum pump angle is just the angle for the lowest calculated pump angle before it will just not try to pump fuel, your 4deg will be fine and this is a value you can play with later when it is running. Spill valve on duration can be found experimentally by seeing how short it can be before it fails to pump fuel, note we have seen some variation in how large it needs to be over the engine speed range on some engines. Don't forget if you change some of your staging settings you can get it started on the port injectors and then start to bring in the DI. Also just looking at your DI injector flow rate again you have it set as 1663cc/min at 379kPa (~26psi) This does seem quite high for a DI injector, is this right?

Actually managed to figure out a cam window based on watching the trigger state to find the gap. Trigger 1 -> Sync Tooth of around 7 and Trigger 2 -> Window Length of 100degrees should work based on it being set to the falling edge. Should give lots of room for the cam swing, this means the oscilloscope trace shouldn't be needed any less you have trigger issues when swinging the cam or miss-syncing when starting.

Your VVT Inlet, Exhaust target table seems all screwed up in that one. Secondary Injector Timing (Port injectors) is all set to 0deg btdc, typically when using end of injection mode this would be 360-400deg btdc (you are using start of inj mode due to staged but work backwards from there). All these points from the previous tune still stand: Injector Duty Cycle Fault Value is set to 90, I would set this to something more like 50% as this is checked on the primary injectors which are the DI injectors which can't inject for as much of the engine cycle as port injectors can. Your Primary injector SPWA table is all set to 0.15ms which seems odd. You don't have any form of wideband input setup, do you have a wideband AFR/lambda sensor connected to this engine? Typically you wouldn't have an IAT fuel trim table and little to no warmup enrichment when using a charge temp table. I do actually want to see an oscilloscope trace of Trig 1 and Trig 2 signals so that I can check where teh Trig 2 cam pulse window needs to be as it is currently only set to 10deg long which won't be enough for a VVT cam and is set to be right after the gap. Your VVT target table values are all setup as relative to rest position values but you have non zero values for the Inlet Fully Rtd and Exhaust Fully adv positions. I would recommend setting your Inlet Fully Rtd and Exhaust Fully adv positions to 0deg.You do also seem to have quite large tooth tolerances in directions that the cams don't normally swing, where did these values come from? Let me know if you want me to clarify any of them further. This synced and started sending signals to the coil packs, still need to see an actual oscilloscope trace of Trig 1&2 to figure out your cam window settings, if possible one trace with Trig 2 cam fully advanced and one with it fully retarded on the vvt but one with it just in it's rest position will be fine. Don't forget you haven't set any of the VVT cam outputs but that isn't an issue until after you have it running. I haven't dealt with an AIM PDM before but @Adamw will have, from the ECU side it will simply be a case of setting the fuel pump function up with a CAN Aux or virtual Aux and sending that out with a custom CAN stream that matches what the AIM PDM expects. Are you wanting variable speed control or just on/off functionality?

Yes that is a 60-2 trigger wheel.

Looking through your tune there are a couple of things I would change. Injector Duty Cycle Fault Value is set to 90, I would set this to something more like 50% as this is checked on the primary injectors which are the DI injectors which can't inject for as much of the engine cycle as port injectors can. Your Primary injector SPWA table is all set to 0.15ms which seems odd. You don't have any form of wideband input setup, do you have a wideband AFR/lambda sensor connected to this engine? Typically you wouldn't have an IAT fuel trim table and little to no warmup enrichment when using a charge temp table. You don't have any MAP protections setup. I do actually want to see an oscilloscope trace of Trig 1 and Trig 2 signals so that I can check where teh Trig 2 cam pulse window needs to be as it is currently only set to 10deg long which won't be enough for a VVT cam and is set to be right after the gap. Your VVT target table values are all setup as relative to rest position values but you have non zero values for the Inlet Fully Rtd and Exhaust Fully adv positions. I would recommend setting your Inlet Fully Rtd and Exhaust Fully adv positions to 0deg.You do also seem to have quite large tooth tolerances in directions that the cams don't normally swing, where did these values come from?

Ignition 5 and 6 aren't exposed anywhere but Ignition 7 & 8 are on the expansion connector. Injection 5-8 aren't exposed anywhere. You could make the ignition work with a the new injector/ignition pin reallocation and you could make the injection work as a group injection but probably best to get in touch with tech support about getting it modified to have those pins exposed. Tech support should be able to get those outputs coming out on flying leads or connected to unused pins on the main header for a small fee, have a think about what other pins you might need too before sending it back such as extra analogs.

Can you attach a copy of your tune please. Is the ECU wired piggyback to a factory ECU or standalone?