Vaughan

So in G4X instead of going to the pin and telling it what function you want it to do you instead go to the function you want to set up and tell it what pin you want to use. For example if you want to setup the AC Request input you need to go to Chassis and Body -> AC Clutch Control, change Mode to whichever style of AC you want to use and then set the AC Request source to the input you want to be your AC request. It is a bit different to G4+ but when you get used to it it is a lot faster and easier to use. As an extra bit of useful information double clicking on that locked Function setting when that input or output is being used by a function will take you straight to where it is being used.

Could one of you attach a screenshot of exactly where you are looking and a description of what you are trying to change please

You can also do this with any variable if you give it a multiplier of 0.

The DC5 Integra type R that I have played with uses KLine for the AC request from memory, not CAN

Something like that should give you 3 modes as specified. 1 = DI2 inactive and VAux4 inactive 2 = DI2 Active 3 = DI2 Inactive and VAux4 Active

how are you currently telling the ECU which of those 3 modes you want to use? like this? DI2 inactive = normal mode DI2 active = water meth mode throttle < 16% & wheel speed between 35-80kph & DI2 inactive = eco mode

Can't seem to open your basemap but the attached image is more what I was meaning. Are you cable or E-Throttle? if E-Throttle then make it APS based not TPS. Ignore that the main ignition table values aren't the same as yours, they're just there to indicate that I haven't removed any timing from the main ign table. Also you do still have overrun fuel cut off right?

attach a copy of your tune and I'll see what I can do

Attach a copy of your tune please and I will show you what I was meaning

the Ign 4 status has 4 states, they are: 0 = Inactive 1 = Active 2 = Off 3 = Fault typically you would only use Inactive and Active for this particular status, the Off status only occurs when the output is not assigned to any function and I don't think the fault status is used on this particular runtime. What exactly are you trying to do?

At a guess probably not quite enough fuel in it, maybe try increasing the master fuel value to 12 or 15ms to see if that makes it run

I was thinking 4D ignition table always on. I wouldn't actually have 0 MAP row in the main ignition table (or any other table for that matter) as I wouldn't expect you to ever really get below 30kpa. I would leave all of the Main ignition table values as sensible ones and I would probably go with more like -30 than -15 in those cells in the 4d table (Based on what I think your MAP value would be in overrun that puts you at like 6 to 10 degrees btdc at 0% tps).

looks to be the same, take a triggerscope and post it up here though to be sure.

You'll either need some form of electrical speed sensor to feed into the ECU such as the signal from a gearbox, ABS sensor or driveshaft or I believe there are GPS devices that transmit GPS based speed values over CAN which can be fed into the ECU, Dash or both. GPS speedo may or might not be street legal depending on what country you are in. For a G4X you shouldn't need a converter for the ABS in terms of frequency but it might not pick up speed below ~20kph if the voltage output of the sensor isn't high enough at slow speeds. The ABS setup for an MX5 would require hubs and axles from memory. I have heard of people adding aftermarket speed sensor setups to driveshafts before, not specifically MX5s but it might be worth a google.

I've kind of played with this in my MR2 but my setup is a little different. I have overrun fuel cut on with a 0.5s torque reduction of -40deg (max in overun fuel cut setting is 25 but I sneaked another 15 deg retard in using the 4D ignition table) and I find it does a combination of crackle pops and bangs when coming off the throttle into overrun fuel cut and reentry from overrun fuel cut back into throttle. From my experience with this my recommendation would be maybe go so far as 0deg ign timing when in overrun and you might need to add extra fuel (from memory turning wall wetting on which added extra fuel when coming out of overrun fuel cut add more pops and bangs). You won't get anywhere near 0kpa MAP so probably best to just go take a log of a full throttle run then cut throttle completely and look at the log afterwards to see where it went. There is the risk that the overrun area will be very close to low throttle cruising and if this is the case then maybe look into leaving the main ignition table as is and having the 4D ignition table with a bunch of retard in it based on tps and rpm to make sure that the retard only comes in at no throttle rather than a similar vacuum but something more like 5% throttle. Disclaimer: I'm not a professional tuner, I just play around with my own engines at my own risk.

Looks like the same sensor as the two Nissan pedals I have played with (M35 Stagea and V35 skyline) you can test it with a multimeter as well to see if it matches.

If you can send us a good triggerscope and we should be able to get a mode in the software for it. Probably best to remove the spark plugs before capturing the triggerscope so that it's not affected by compression. Alternatively if you could measure the angle of the extra tooth relative to the other two on either side of it, is it exactly halfway between? If it is halfway between and the other 3 teeth are evenly spaced then we won't need a triggerscope to figure out the angles of each tooth. The other useful piece of information would be the location of cyl1 tdc on the compression stroke relative to the teeth so that we can try and set the mode up to have an offset of 0.

Good catch, G4+ help manual shows a 2k2 pullup on each of the DIs being used for cam sensors and a 1k pullup on trig2. The pullups need to go on trig2 (1k) and the 3 DI pins that you use for cam sensors (DI1-3 in my setup, 2k2 pullup on these ones) Aux1-4 are used for the cam solenoids not the cam sensors.

Looks like the AC idle settings bring the tps at idle above your Drive/Overrun TPS value making it a driven shift. A quick look shows that your driven downshift settings are all 0s meaning that it does jump straight into reactivation timeout as each step of the shift is setup as 0ms long. Driven upshift is similar but has times in the higher gears. If you want it to stop being different between AC and no AC increase your Drive/Overrun TPS value to maybe 7%

probably a good idea to attach your basemap

one pin to switched power, one to an Aux, doesn't matter which way around the pins are, I used Aux1-4 but any of Aux1-10 and any spare inj or ign pins will suit from memory. I ran Bank 1 Inlet (rear bank) to Trigger 2 and used DI1-3 for the other 3 banks, DI4 can be also be used but you do need to connect Trig2 to one of the cams. I can't remember which way round I wired it but one of the crank pins to Trig 1 and the other to signal ground, it is quite easy to tell from a triggerscope whether or not you have these two the right way around, they do have to be a particular way. I just used the Link Looms so Shielded Trig 1&2 but not the other cam sensors. I've attached a copy of my basemap from a while ago, my engine has Cams and slightly bumped compression and there are a few other things setup in there like the ECU controlling the temperature gauge and speedo. That being said it should be fine for figuring out the basics and getting the engine started. 2GR 309whp.pclx Have just realised that this is in the G4+ forum, your setup will be slightly different again if you are using a G4+ but the gist of it is the same

Attach the basemap you used to get this log too please

To clarify, do you want the engine speed (while idling) to increase when AC comes on or do you want the engine speed to stay the same when idle comes on? Looking at your log I can't see evidence of any AC offset values or even fan offset values being put in, your idle target speed is also a constant 950rpm the whole time, I can't even see how the basemap you supplied could have an idle target of 950rpm as there is no combination of idle ups at that could give you 150rpm on top of the base target of 800rpm at that temperature. Your log doesn't look like it is from the same basemap as the one you sent me or the modified version I sent back to you. I think you need to turn off ignition idle, change your closed loop integral gain to zero and then tune all combinations of the setup with just the offset values until the targets are reached at each point. Then once you have tuned all of your offsets correctly you can add the closed loop and idle ignition back in. Start by just tuning the base position table from cold to hot with AC and all fans off then once you are happy with the base table you need to tune the fan offsets by causing the fan to turn on and off and adjusting the values until it operates correctly and then finally tune the AC on/off last.

I've fixed this and the fix will be out in the next release

Log of that happening?