Vaughan

Commented on the wrong thread at first. Looking at your map it looks like you ac idle up won't be increasing rpm because your idle max clamp is too low, it doesn't matter what you tell the idle to do if it is sitting against it's max clamp it can't increase the idle any further beyond that point. I haven't looked through your logs but I suspect that this is what is happening. Use the compare function (file->compare) to see what changes I have made here and maybe give these changes ago to see if it works better. 1242458349_LA400Kkurosiba26 modified by Vaughan.pclx

Can you attach a copy of your tune?

The AC Offset doesn't adjust the idle target, it only adjusts the base position. Use the AC Idle Up setting to adjust the target idle. Also as a side note the E-Throttle target table should target 0%TPS when the APS is 0%, the idle control takes care of keeping the throttle open the right amount.

this should be covered by the injector deadtime table You could probably put EGT correction on the 2nd axis of the IAT Fuel trim table What do you mean by water injection? do you mean water meth injection? If so could you use the Lambda target table overlay to alter the target afr when this is on? There are 3 tables already available for E-Throttle targeting, what would the Air conditioning only mode do? Do you mean GP outputs? We do plan on doing built in paddleshift control which should clear four of those up for you. You can also use GP PWM outputs in the same way as you would use a GP Output with the only restriction being that there are certain Aux's you can't select, this can be gotten around by choosing which functions are on the GP PWM and which are on the GP Outputs.

There are also 16 CAN Aux which are like virtual Aux but they can also do frequency and Duty Cycle. Dual E-Throttle has been added in the latest release that came out yesterday, control of other similar devices like wastegates which use the same Hardware is in the list of things to be added in the future. There are currently 2 Main fuel and ignition tables as well as 4D and 5D fuel and ignition trim tables, do you have a setup which requires more than that?

Having a quick poke through the code it looks like the GP Outputs are updated at 250Hz (every 4ms) in G4X ECUs.

The reason I ask is because the value is transmitted as Lambda and so differences at each end could be due to one end using a different stoich value.

Do they show the same Lambda values? what Stoichiometric ratio are you using on the ECU?

As a note on this it looks like you don't need anywhere near as much first crank prime when you are using wall wetting as they end up doing similar things to each other when starting the engine.

If the speedometer on the dash is still working but you aren't getting anything at the ECU end I would hazard a guess that there is something wrong in the dash. One work around would be to hook the gearbox speed signal straight to the ECU (as well as the dash), you could probably get away with only attaching the signal wire (not the ground as well). The best way to do this at a guess would be to pop the dash cluster out, de-pin the dash to ECU speed signal from the dash plug and then connect that to the gearbox to dash speed signal wire. Make sure the DI pullup in the EUC is off if doing this.

If you're not having issues with the ECU disconnecting unexpectedly then you can ignore the error message. They were made visible so that we could get better feedback from people experiencing connection issues but don't affect the operation of the ECU.

Dual E-Throttle control for G4X ECUs is coming in release 6.20 (out very soon). On the storm you will need two external H-Bridges (https://dealers.linkecu.com/G4RET?quantity=1) and on the Xtreme or Fury you can use the internal driver for one E-Throttle and an external for the other.

I suspect this is because the math block is performing the operation on the values in degrees C (changing units is purely a PCLink visibility thing, the ECU always works in metric units). If you want that differential value in Fahrenheit you will need to add a conversion to that equation. ((a-b) × 9/5) + 32

The GTT plugin fitted into my RB25de S2 Stagea (factory grey plug) ECU box without issues but I wouldn't expect the GTT plugin to fit into an R33 ECU box if the factory ECU in that box has a blue plug.

I ended up pulling apart most of my body loom to rewire things and from memory that output shaft speed one came through one of the 3 auto plugs attached to the rhs fender just above the chassis rail in front of the strut tower. That means if you don't your speed signal being fed into that plug where the auto box loom plugged into you won't have any speed signal coming through that ECU pin.

As a side note to this I manual converted an RB25de S2 stagea (Grey plug ECU because Stagea and the pinout all matched up to the NEO motors) and I did have a wire in pin 29 which was the speed signal from the dash. My speed signal wire was yellow with a green stripe.

Most engines run well using MAP for load. The exception is engines which have very little vacuum or erratic vacuum/MAP readings which is typically engines with Individual throttle bodies (ITBS) as the lack of plenum between the throttle body and intake valves mean the pressure varies massively over each intake stroke making it very hard to figure out how much air is entering the cylinder based on the air pressure. The setups with TPS/RPM on the main fuel table and a MAP correction on a 4d table are typically for turbocharged engines with ITBs as the same throttle position with a higher air pressure in front of the throttle body will flow more air and so needs to be accounted for in the fueling, examples of this kind of engine would be the RB26DETT and the SR20DET that came in the GTIR pulsar. The AFR/Lambda target table (if Open Loop Lambda correction is on or if using a Modelled fuel mode) is used as a multiplier on top of the main fuel table so that when the main fuel table is tuned correctly (and the injector deadtimes & spwa are correct) to match the AFR/Lambda target table the actual AFR/Lambda can be changed simply by changing the AFR/Lambda target with no other corrections needed. It is also very useful as a reference when you are tuning and looking at logs for seeing if the AFR/Lambda being seen by the wideband is where you want it to be.

It does store over power cycles but I would suspect that your engine light isn't actually controlled by CE function, the G4+ GTR/GTS sample maps had the CE Light turn on when Coolant temp or MAP went too high so have a quick look in your map to see what is actually controlling it.

It is a G4+, the G4 only ever came in an extruded case with only one plug.

Attach a copy of your tune please

I would expect that the rad cap setup won't be able to flow enough volume to prevent noticeable spikes and I would expect there to be delays in its operation both of which would mean that sharp pressure spikes should be visible if you did have combustion gases entering the coolant system.

Where are you finding this information and which EVO specifically, if it is different on a particular model that is useful information that I can put in the help manual to help others.

with the trigger pattern I specified and with trigger 2 set to off it'll only sync in the correct spot half of the times you try and start it. if it's waste spark and group injection this is fine but if it is direct spark it will only run half of the times you try to start it. You will also need to do the typical trigger calibration process to set the offset. Looking through similar trigger patterns Toyota 1JZ VVTi mode might work as it has the same crank pattern and a similar cam pattern.

The Mazda MX5 Trigger Mode suits the NA motors with just the CAS sensor The Mazda MX5 OBD2 Trigger Mode suits NB1 motors The Mazda MX5 VVTi Trigger Mode suits the NB2 motors with VVT I'm not quite sure how to set the cam sync up for you on a G4+ but your Trigger Mode should be 'MultiTooth / Missing' with Trigger 1 Tooth Count set to 36 and Missing Teeth to 2.

NA8, NB1 or NB2 1.8 Motor? Does it have VVT? Is the 32-2 on the crank or cam, if on the crank does it have a cam sync signal? is the sensor on the 32-2 wheel a 2 wire or 3 wire sensor? Could you also attach a copy of your tune please