Vaughan

If you set the connection port to your ECU's COM port then it will just connect directly to that.
On the contrary connecting to the first ECU it finds would cause all manner of issues if it was not the one you were intending to connect to.
The only extra step is to double click on your ECU the first time you connect to it after opening PCLink.
just checked and mine is doing the same, we did change some build numbering stuff recently so it most likely hasn't made its way through all the places the build number is stored.

Ok so after checking them... It seems that the sensors are not really doing anything. I need to check a few more sensors. I am not sure that the factory wiring diagram is even correct. CORRECTION.... 
The sensors are staying at about 3.5 volts and when putting metal to them they drop to zero with pullup resistor off. So seems the sensors are wired incorrectly and I will get this resolved.
 
On another note. Here is the fuel pump table we came up with.

Vaughan, to my knowledge there is a bridge pipe, maybe like 20mm diameter at the back of the stock upper intake manifold to link both banks. 

The new G5 PCLinks support connecting over Wifi and so when you click connect it brings up all available ECUs in a window so that you can select which one you want to connect to. Once you have selected one you can disconnect and reconnect as often as you want while that PCLink is open without having to search again as long as it doesn't fail a connection.
If you don't want to see the search window you can select the COM Port directly in the Connection tab of the options window.
For reference it always used to search for all ECUs but would just try and connect to the first one it found.

"Each ADIO has a software configurable 4k7 pull-up to 5V" so if you need a pullup to something other than 5V or a different value than 4.7kOhm then yes you would need an external pull-up resistor.

I would recommend having the ECU, injectors and Lambdas on the same high power output as the Coils. The Lambdas could have trouble heating on the low power channel and it's generally best to have the ECU on the same supply as coils and injectors for deadtime and dwell purposes.
Note also the low power outputs will soft limit while in over current situations before the trip time is reached and this can cause weird issues when powering the ECU.
With the keypad make sure you only have one device listening to it and that device telling the others what the buttons states are as this prevents race conditions and prevents clashing button LED messages. For the hazards you would most likely want the front PDM telling the rear PDM the hazard output status rather than the keypad button status so that they flash in time with each other.

You absolutely can, that being said @adamw will probably have more practical feedback around some of the setting choices as he has more experience with actual applications.

Emailed GaugeArt and they confirmed that if you use the "Link 500k" setting when programming the gauge it will convert it to 500k on the iphone app.  Using the plain "Link" option setting will be 1Mbps.

I fixed this one yesterday, there is a bug where selecting a simple button or table button in the CAN Keypad button selection window without having first selected an input for that simple button/table crashes it. Fix will be available in the next release, current work around is to select the button's CAN DI input first before selecting it in the CAN Keypad Button's window.

Let me know if that doesn't fix it for you

Did a bit of work

Yes that is what I was thinking, I have access to a stock one so i'll take a scope of cams with crank , I been also sniffing CAN to be able to get Dash and AC functional , do you know approximately when the Di4 controller will be available ? 
thanks 

Don't currently have a date for the DI boxes although we do have several under test. Only other DI boxes we have used inhouse are the OE GT86 ones.

Ahhhh cool.. Thanks !
 
Phew I thought I was going crazy.. It's working now, thank you !

I fixed this one yesterday, there is a bug where selecting a simple button or table button in the CAN Keypad button selection window without having first selected an input for that simple button/table crashes it. Fix will be available in the next release, current work around is to select the button's CAN DI input first before selecting it in the CAN Keypad Button's window.

Let me know if that doesn't fix it for you

So Antilag is for maintaining boost while off throttle and is aimed at rally style racing where they need the power back quickly, it requires some way of bypassing extra air when off throttle such as a large idle valve, an E-Throttle or a permanently cracked throttle. Antilag also has a cyclic idle function that exists so that you can still idle the car when it has the throttle body held open but this is more aimed at vehicles with permanently cracked throttles.
The phrase "Rolling Antilag" is often used to mean rolling launch control where you open the throttle fully and it holds the car's speed while it builds boost.
Anti-lag is for off throttle stuff through corners, rolling launch control is for building boost while maintaining a set speed.

Ahhh ok i didnt think to look at that either. I figured that was all for normal wheel speed sensors not for the gps input. Makes sense though!

Ok I will get this somewhere around the 4.6amps as recommended. I am sure that this will need some tuning on the feedforward and some of the delay table data. We can sort this out. The truck will be running PI as well. I will get it all setup and should be ready to test Thursday. 
Grateful for the feedback and info on this. Let me know if you have an email Would love to send you the file and logs once we get going.

Yes this is what I am thinking for the time being so I can run the ignition 9 output from the ECU. I can plug in the values for the pump and get as close to the 6amps as possible.
I also found a lot of the factory calculations. This looks like I can plug this right into the Link software and it should work really well.

Ok thank you for clarifying this.

Through Tech support would be the other way, I have had this tab (along with a bunch of others) sitting open for a while now but haven't gotten around to looking through it properly as there is always a lot to do.

Yes I am taking all of that into account

Thanks Vaughan, can you tell its been a long day? haha. Will make some ammends and report back. Thanks!

Pls post a copy of your tune file, plus PC log with all the issues you have described above.

Thank you for your reply and all the initial research you have already done. You’re way far ahead than me.
installs I’ve seen done have been converted from direct injection to port injectors  
let me take a step back.
I don’t have the motor yet.  The reason I posted is I’m trying to decide between a 360 and a 430 engine.  I know the 360 has been done with the Link ECU. It’s a little underpowered for my application so I was hoping to go for the 430 engine, but noticed there were some technological changes on Ferrari‘s website.  
 
I was kind of hoping for a “we’ve done that before go for it!” and then move forward on locating an engine. But that was best case scenario.  
I can do all the legwork on the one off Ferrari control systems.  I just wasn’t “prepared” to do it at this moment. But I’m excited at the possibility, and I will start doing my research and post here as questions come up.
 
Again Thank you so much for your replies and research.  At the very least it has lit fire that the 430 engine is a possibility.

To create a new mixture map:

 
To change which log you are looking at use the log file manager (stop the old log and start a new one each time):