Vaughan

It’s alive! 
 
Will be great to get a ‘proper’ fix so I can take advantage of the recent firmware updates & fixes, but for now at least it’s running. What a great early Xmas present:) Thanks team. 
It’s alive! 
 
Will be great to get a ‘proper’ fix so I can take advantage of the recent firmware updates & fixes, but for now at least it’s running. What a great early Xmas present:) Thanks team. 

Thank you Vaughn. Youre a legend!

Was a stats not loading fast enough issue, will be fixed in the next release.

I have replicated it on my desk, I suspect it is because it holds the value from last power on for a while before moving to the measured value and the measured value will be filtered with the initial values in the filter list being zero hence the step up. Will get it fixed.

Thanks for your input. It's appreciated. I think it has standard gdi solenoid type injectors, but I'm not 100% sure on that. Will have to do more investigating. It's hard to find info on it.
My other thought was to make a modified intake manifold and use port injection,and do away with the direct injection,but I guess that kinda defeates the purpose of a direct injected engine.
I will definitely keep my eyes out for the direct injection addon you mentioned.
Thanks for your input!

serial connection to G4X ECUs works, you have to use the the Serial pins on the CAN 1 connector. It didn't work for a while there but was fixed several versions ago. It is also painfully slow.

Next release should be within a month, currently have a few things being finalised before pre release testing begins.

I tested with 1% and the car works great , thanks for your help
 

The wires between EC and body loom in the plugs near the ECU according to my notes are:
111    orange/black    aux5    -?    big pin at end of clip in connector - fpcm? 119    purple/red    na    na    small pin clip in connector, power light? 5    blue/white    aux3    Tacho    small pin clip connector 13    black/pink    aux2    FP Relay    small pin clip connector 17    red/white    aux8    CE Light    small pin clip connector 18    orange/black    na    na    small pin clip connector 20    grey/red    DI2    Start    small pin clip connector 21    pink    DI3    A/C Request    small pin clip connector 22    black/white    na    DataLink Check    small pin clip connector 27    white/red    na    na    small pin clip connector and diode near ecu 28    LGreen    na    na    small pin clip connector 29    yellow/green    DI4    Vehicle Speed    small pin clip connector 34    blue    na    1 position signal    small pin clip connector (auto) 35    pink/black    na    2 position signal    big pin clip connector (auto) 37    purple/white    na    throttle opening signal     TPS OUT 1:1, needs buffer, non clip connector 38    LGreen/red    na    D position signal    big pin clip connector (auto) 39    green/orange    na    Neutral signal    small pin clip connector (auto) 40    red    na    R position signal    big pin clip connector (auto) 58    white/blue    na    ouput shaft rotation speed    small pin clip connector, sheathed wire (auto) 61    red/black    na    na    non clip connector 64    brown/red    na    na    small pin clip connector, power? 68    green/red    na    na    small pin clip connector, OD light 69    LBlue    na    na    small pin clip connector 70    green    na    na    small pin clip connector, snow? 75    brown/yellow    na    datalink rx    big pin clip connector 76    yellow    na    datalink tx    big pin clip connector I also have some notes for the white and black plugs behind the coolant overflow in the engine bay:
106    LGreen/black    aux1    na    blackplug behind coolant overflow 113    pink    na    na    pale plug behind coolant overflow 115    pink/blue    na    na    black plug behind coolant overflow 120    yellow/green    na    na    black plug behind coolant overflow 121    blue/red    na    na    black plug behind coolant overflow 122    brown/yellow    na    na    black plug behind coolant overflow 14    brown/white    aux inj7    AC Clutch    pale plug behind coolant overflow, responds to DI3 (AC request), turns off over 5000rpm and back on under 4200 24    green    fan flyback??    ign sw???    pale plug behind coolant overflow 26    grey    DI1    PS Switch    pale plug behind coolant overflow 31    green    main relay in    ignition relay    pale plug behind coolant overflow  
This was all from a S1 25X Four (RB25de Auto 4wd) before I proceeded to remove a bunch of the loom and fit a 30det.
Important things would be:
blue/white    aux3    Tacho    small pin clip connector 13    black/pink    aux2    FP Relay    small pin clip connector 17    red/white    aux8    CE Light    small pin clip connector grey/red    DI2    Start    small pin clip connector 21    pink    DI3    A/C Request    small pin clip connector 29    yellow/green    DI4    Vehicle Speed    small pin clip connector 37    purple/white    na    throttle opening signal     TPS OUT 1:1, needs buffer, non clip connector 14    brown/white    aux inj7    AC Clutch    pale plug behind coolant overflow, responds to DI3 (AC request), turns off over 5000rpm and back on under 4200 26    grey    DI1    PS Switch    pale plug behind coolant overflow 31    green    main relay in    ignition relay    pale plug behind coolant overflow

Crank trigger pattern should be no problem. The cams however could prove very annoying given the sensor type with the erratic positive and negative spikes. Are the positive spikes on the cams getting above 1.8v? They look like they aren't and there is no zero crossing to rely on for normal reluctor style control.
Is it possible to fit more generic hall sensors to get nice square waves on the cams? Also how far do the cams swing? Depending on where the teeth are relative to the crank you should be able to cam window it with a regular hall style signal.

ECU side of the setup is explained in the ECU help manual

Cheers. I'll probably end up leaving the existing WB on the JST5 and use CAN2 for everything else.

Thanks a lot Vaughan very helpful so i dont need to do anything just increase my fuel pressure. Thanks again.

Closed Loop Lambda means it can constantly correct for variations between the tune and reality but is not required.

Fuel table specifies the Volumetric efficiency, volumetric efficiency is used to calculate mass of air entering engine, lambda target and stoichiometric ratio is used to calculate desired mass of fuel, desired mass of fuel is converted into an injection pulsewidth taking into account fuel density, injector flow rate at a specified pressure and the current differential pressure.
if you have a specified flow rate at a particular differential pressure you can calculate the flow rate at a different differential pressure and the ECU does this calculation automatically when set up correctly.

don't change your fuel map, your fuel map in modeled mode is Volumetric efficiency which isn't affected by fuel pressure. If Fuel system type is set to fp sensor you don't need to make any changes when adjusting fuel pressure.

don't need to change any settings, modelled mode with fp sensor does all the calculations required to deal with different fuel pressures.

I will confirm - but I believe it's 60-2 crank.

If anyone gets this far word to the wise, in the unlikely event they follow the same path, the IE5238 sensors don't work with the G4X. Overlooked in the schematic above was the min voltage (3.6) which wasn't going below 1v. 
So now in a holding pattern waiting to get my hands (well the shop is..) on a suitable adapter to make them speak the required 1's and 0's. 

Little hard to tell with the lambda reading being delayed from the change in injection but you could try extending your Staged Injection Accel Fuel value from 3 injection events to 6 and then take another log to see the difference.

Attach a log and a copy of your tune

I haven't used these myself yet but friends have with good success. https://sirhclabs.com/product/vr-to-hall-sensor-converter-dual-channel/

ECU's with P&H drivers have the injector outputs connected to a flyback rail so it is normal to see bat voltage on the injector output when it is "off". 
Note in test mode the injector output only pulses to ground for 2ms, so a multimeter or normal test light wont see it.  You need an LED test light or "noid light" to check the injector pulse is there.  
Those 2200cc injectors will seize up with the slightest hint of moisture anywhere near them so perhaps touch one on a battery with some jumper wires to make sure it does actually click.  
The drivers should be set to saturated also.  

The average function previous values always start as all 0s so it will take 200s to reach the current actual value if it steady and not changing.
you could probably use a timer to show the current value until 200s has passed and then show the average value
Something like this:

The average function previous values always start as all 0s so it will take 200s to reach the current actual value if it steady and not changing.
you could probably use a timer to show the current value until 200s has passed and then show the average value
Something like this: