devan1811

thank you mate

just want to make sure this is correct before doing something drastically wrong, wiring is not my strongest point... does this look correct?

Is it just a standard 4 pin relay I use? iv got a Revo-tec switch that I wanted to use so when the cars hot but its not on you can keep the fan running?

Monday I went to WGT Auto developments for abit of base mapping and everything was great, the only things I need to change is my cooling fan which is run off manual switch at the moment, but the tuner said to wire it directly into the ECU (it has the standard cooling switch). And the other thing is the fuel pump, again I have got it on a flick switch but I need it to go into the ECU, positive wire I presume? can someone explain how to wire them into the ECU wiring on a 76pin (4-3-3-3) SR20DET, is it just through the standard wiring itself on the plug?

So my SR20 is going to be given a base map so I can run the engine in on the 14th, I currently have fitted SARD 850cc injectors, but im now wondering if its worth me changing them back to the standard 370cc injectors so I can run the engine in and then at a later date when it goes in for mapping change them over to the 850cc's again? What would you recommend? and would they be able to base map it with 850cc injectors?

Having abit of a play around it turns out it's just the feed from the ecu to the feed on the BMW like you said adam, I thought I had to boost the signal bu that was from a standard ECU so using the link the output is 12v like you said. thanks for the help and support

sorry mate, The tachometer is fed by a signal from the ECU.

From the main C101 plug (loom) I found the correct pin from that and then had a read online and found that the standard SR20 ecu uses a 5V signal, but if your saying that the LINK G4 uses a 12v then I don't need the booster pack that I made. Im going to follow the wire direct to the tacho with a multimeter and make sure im getting 12v from there, I know I have 12v from the engine bay harness and from the Nissan cable now just nothing making the needle move at the moment.

Hi, so I have a E30 bmw with a Nissan SR20 (76pin ecu) and I am trying to get my standard rev counter to work in the E30, I know the S14 ECU tacho signal wire uses 5V and the BMW needs 12V, so I have my myself a board that allows be to boost the 5V to 12V, but, still no joy. Is there any way of getting this to work through the G4 setup or anyone know of a way to get this working correctly? Many thanks

I have two fault codes when connecting my ECU an can't work out what it is.. the first is code 11 & the other I think is 46? on the XS plug I have the +5V out not connected to anything... could that be it?

Thank you for clearing that up for me! really appreciate it.

The Link intake air temp sensor and also a MAC 3 port boost solenoid, what is the best way to wire these in? I presume the MAC solenoid wires into the original boost controller wiring is that correct? Just need help on where to wire into as I'm not the best when it comes to this if someone can help with this as I'd like to get it finished today, thank you in advance

hi Adam, thanks for the help I have now sorted that. I was also meant to ask you about the Link intake air temp sensor and also a MAC 3 port boost solenoid, what is the best way to wire these in? I presume the MAC solenoid wires into the original boost controller wiring is that correct?

great stuff thanks for your help. I can presume that I no longer need the standard Lambda sensor now I have this fitted?

Thanks for the help mate, so with the black not to earth it to the body but a negative on the fuse box is that correct?

Hi, I have a G4 link (64 pin) for a S14 SR20DET and I have just bought a AEM x-series wideband kit. I want to get this fitted ready for mapping so that the tuners haven't got to do it themselves so I am after abit of help. Here are both diagrams for the G4 & the Wideband, it may seem pretty easy to work out but I am not the best when it comes to this side of it....wiring. I have attached both sheets from the wideband & the link. the power for the Wideband is on a switched 12V which is done, and ground I have put on the chassis but it says (power ground)? I am pretty sure I don't need the green/black or white/black, but do I need to use the blue wire? and which port would the white & brown go to on the G4? any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi, I am in need of a base map for a S14 SR20DET (vvt) with 850cc Sard injectors for a G4 Link Its in a bmw E30 with a GARRETT GTX3076R if it makes any difference? any help would be appreciated

Hi, I am in need of a base map for a S14 SR20DET (vvt) with 850cc Sard injectors for a G4 Link Its in a bmw E30 with a GARRETT GTX3076R if it makes any difference? any help would be appreciated

okay that's better for me as its cheaper. just ordered one now. cheers

Actually looking at it I think 4 port is my better option with my setup

Good Morning, I am new to this so please bare with me, I have bought a second hand Link G4 (S13-S14) (LONG) from a guy who had the car tuned at Abbey Motorsport, I basically just got the unit on its own with no wiring, sensors etc... I was going with an Apexi Power FC until this came up. Now I have just built a BMW E30 with a SR20DET running a GARRETT GTX3076R, turbosmart external wastegate, 850cc Sard injectors, forged lump etc.... I have bought a IAT sensor to plumb into my intercooler pipe, iv got external gauges for oil pressure, temp, water temp & Boost... but what do I do with regards to boost control?? Do I buy a Gizzmo boost controller with display or can I buy a boost solenoid for my ECU? Is there anything else I will need to buy before going to a mapper, as I need a base map to run my new engine in or is there a way for me to do a base map at home to run it?