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Everything posted by marc1

  1. Hi, I have recently installed one of the G4 Knock lights in my R33 Skyline. Firstly was just checking its normal for the light to go through its sequence "dim blue, flashing blue then green" before the engine has actually started? Ie if you turn the ignition to on position (light powered) then happen to not start it very quickly itl be lit green before then engine has been turned over/ started? I know you could just turn the key straight to start and that would probably solve this just thought worth checking thats normal? Also I get quite alot of red flashing light at random places. I suspect its interference or my engine is too mechanically noisey (built RB26)?! As the red light sometimes occurs at idle and or low rpm down shifts etc and not twice in the same place/rpm that I can identify really (except for idle). Fairly sure it is grounded correctly as I bought the link sensor and loom with it too. (Note: tuner tuned the car after light installed with his knock phones and still does it) Thanks for your input, Marc
  2. Ok. I will see what I can do, do you have an email?. Auxiliary outputs - fuel Injector drive 7 (configured to "ISC solenoid") is definitely connected to the right solenoid (wiring wise) though so I suspect its somewhere in the setup as when you select "Test PWM" on output Injector drive 7 the idle solenoid can be felt pulsing with a say 50Hz signal.. (car is back in a few pieces as of last night so cant do any logs sorry?!)
  3. Hi Simon, Thanks for the reply. I have just decided to stick with my normal G4 for the time being till I actually require more I/O etc. The only slight other issue im having while I have you is the idle is un responsive when i adjust the setting in the software. Im still trying to get the open loop control to work properly. Only thing that stands out to me so far is the engine is a Series 2 R33 RB25DET and the idle solenoid is factory 2 wire unit. In the software under Idle speed control "Type" there is only unipolar (6 terminal) and bipolar (4 terminal) it says. No other options. What do you recommend out of the software options works best for the 2 wire (brown plug) RB25DET solenoid ? I also am yet to experiment coming down in the Hz frequency on the output but will see if that helps in the next few days. Thanks again, Cheers Marc
  4. Hi there, I have had a read of the specs of the ngtr v.15 plug in ecu's but my question is it worth the upgrade over the normal G4 plug in? I need to upgrade map sensor anyway as the onboard 2.5 is no longer good enough but have the opportunity to sell my ecu for reasonable money and then instead of having to buy a map sensor I can chip that in plus abit extra and buy a G4 plus. Is there anything g that really makes the + ecu a lot better then the normal G4 that I'm missing? Thanks in advance!
  5. Hi there, I am looking to do a custom crank trigger wheel setup on my Rb25det engine using G4 plug in ecu. After having a look in the software it looks like i can run a 200mm 60-2 crack trigger wheel (NZEFI seems to sell them) and use a reluctor sensor. Would you agree that this would be the ideal trigger wheel to use? also would you suggest I keep a cam angle sensor aswell? (I was possibly thinking aem 24-1 CAS disc and just use the 1 slot (inner slot and 24 outer slots). Or possibly the single tooth franklin engineering cas if budget allows. Any additional thoughts / or conformation would be great. Thank you, Marc
  6. marc1

    G4+ Plugin v5/6 & AVCS

    Hi Adam, Thank you for the reply makes sense!
  7. Hi there, Im looking to purchase and install a V5/6 G4+ Plug in ecu into my 99 version 5 Impreza. I would just like to query that this ecu is capable of running inlet only AVCS and that it is possible to be wired in with some wiring changes? I ask this as I hope to transplant a version 7 STI AVCS engine into my car at some point in the not too distant future.. Thanks in advance, Cheers Marc
  8. Hi Adam! your a big help thanks mate!! Both the error values were 0.00 volts. I have put 50deg in the error value and 5.00v in the error high and seems to read. bit hard to know if its true yet haha as i just went outside to try your advice just now and it displays 2 deg C not sure if its that cold outside haha but least it reads, Put some warm air on the sensor and it went up to 12 odd degrees so could be right, will do a comparison with ambient via another temp device tomorrow to confirm. Do you suggest i leave the values you have suggested in the software or is there something more suitable to enter? also with the sensor unplugged at the sensor it reads -40 on the laptop not the 50 degrees one would expect it to read from the values i entered?! Just trying to think if theres a good way to keep motor happy if sensor fails is all. Thanks once again, spent so may hours going round in circles the other day! Im getting smarter now! slowly! Cheers Marc Also thanks Integrale8v you were on the money! Just saw the both of your reply's just now!
  9. Hi there, I cannot seem to get the IAT sensor to function on my G3 (with g4 firmwear) wire in ecu using Subaru WRX V3/4 adaptalink. I have wired the IAT sensor to AN Temp 2 on the adaptor link board and used the spare ground on the board for the earth while i was there. I have then selected AN Temp 2 within the ecu software as Inlet air temp and selected what I believe to be the correct sensor (Std Bosch NTC) then when i connect to the ECU it just says -50 degrees in the IAT read out display. Firstly thought dud sensor, so replaced it with the same type of sensor from my Nissan (runs G4 plug in) and no go. Plugged the lap top into the Nissans link ecu and checked the calibration... same Std Bosch NTC. While I was there I checked that both my sensors worked in the nissan - yep work and read perfectly.. So I thought maby my wiring in the Subaru is wrong somehow so i used a little jumper wire to bridge the plug at the IAT sensor (effectivly bridging AN Temp 2 to ground for one or so seconds) and the laptop straight away displays 150 degrees C in the IAT display so that proves wiring is ok. My conclusion is: Wiring is correct, sensor definitely works, drop down menu calibration Std Bosch NTC is correct but still all the ecu wants to do is display negative 50deg IAT. What am I missing here guys?!?! Doing my head in for such a simple job haha. Thanks again Cheers Marc
  10. Thanks Simon! seems to have done the trick using the suggested cable! cheers
  11. Hi simon, I am using the G4 tuning cable that goes in the round plug with the like 1/4 turn locking ring. Cheers
  12. Thanks Simon, Ive got another question for you here. I have managed to find and purchase myself a link G3 (wire in unit) - with a adaptor link for v3/4 subaru wrx. Seems i am plauged by communication errors! Side note- If the firmware has not been updated will the link G3 still do a tacho sweep? This ecu is supposed to have the software/ firmware upgrade to G4 and it does do the tacho sweep and pump primes with key on which is a start but before I can fire it up due to my difference in injector size from the last owners engine I would like to adjust the fuel.. here is where my problems start. With the USB cable connected to the ecu when i plug it into my laptop I get nothing...(key on or off) like no USB notification sound or cant be found in the Device manager! Its like the ecu is not there at all... then of course if i load PC link it wont connect. My other vehicle is plug in G4 powered (car is in bits) so i decided to plug the same cable into that ecu and even with no battery in the car when you plug the USB into the laptop it recognizes it and makes the windows sound and you can find the "LINK USB" in the device manger. Do you have any ideas / solutions to why the G3 wont become known to the laptop or communicate?? Thank you, Marc
  13. Hi there, I cannot seem to get my possum link (V3/4 WRX) to communicate via laptop using the serial link? My chip has "WRX97P 775" written on it? Is this laptop tunable? I am using the PC Link v2.5 software (on windows 7) but it just comes up with a message saying "searching for link ecu then no ecu found". I have checked the obvious like my serial ports are configured the same in both PC link software and on the laptop settings and that my serial to usb cable driver is installed, ignition on etc but no luck! I notice when the serial link is plugged into the ecu via ribbon cable the engine fuel pump delays about 3 or so seconds from when you switch the key to the ON position is this normal? Vs primes stright away if no serial link is connected. Also if you try to "connect to ecu" on the software with nothing connected to the serial adaptor the "cannon find ecu" message pops up stright away but if its all connected up it searches for a few seconds before the message pops up so somthings seeing somthing but wont connect to the ECU !? Thanks and any help is appreciated, Cheers Marc
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