vladsoilerofcarpets

It's fine Adam, all fixed. Thank you though! Issue: crank sensor duff and at a bad angle. Fix: fresh genuine sensor, and put it closer to the trigger wheel. She runs!!!!

Engine: LS1 Car: BMW E36, EWS bypassed. Management: G4 Storm. Issues following swapping engine/ECU into fresh shell. Original car always ran fine, never had issues with starting/fuelling. Car cranks over. Rev needle sweep works as normal. ECU connects to laptop. Rev counter jumps and car registers rpm. There is only one trigger for the ECU to work from, there always has been, it's the crank sensor, which works off a toothed wheel that's been welded to the crank pulley. Injectors are not firing when cranking, but we have spark plug testers between the HT leads and plugs, they get a lot of flashing lights. Tried injector tests on the ECU software. Injectors 1 > 4 click, but they fire 2 injectors simultaneously. Injectors 5 > 8 don't fire anything, no clicking at all. Guessing they are batched 1-4. It runs wasted spark, so unsure if that's the reason. But help needed.

I'm starting to wonder about who set this engine up. Someone has welded a trigger ring onto the crank pulley, and very sketchily bodged a crank sensor in place. The crank sensor hangs down over the front of the belts, including the wiring (!). I've got a standard LS1 crank sensor on back order, along with a plug and some terminals. I'm guessing they're fairly straightforward to wire in? If anyone has a wiring diagram that would be just perfect. Can a Link G4 Storm work off a standard LS1 crank sensor? Guessing they can, but I'm wondering if that was the reason whoever put this together did that... fiasco... with the crank pulley and trigger wheel. I've already searched elsewhere and seen the LS1 crank sensor has a preset on a G4+, but I don't know about the G4 non-plus. Also- wiring in a wideband. Any moron guides for this? Final question- coolant temperature. Is there a way it can be extracted and used as an Aux Output, much in the same way the ECU can be set to control tacho/idle stepper/etc?

Thanks Simon, that's very useful. TIme to buy a new one!

Yeah that was my thinking as well Adam. It idles way too high when it's plugged in and doesn't actually change at all. I'll get a fresh motor and see what happens. Do the wires need to be plugged in any specific order? Noticed that the previous owner has just smashed a load of plastic off the stepper motor and put the wires straight from the ECU to the stepper... just... fuck's sake. I'm going to be spending the next 10 years chasing all the shit workmanship on this thing.

Plugged in the stepper motor on the LS1 last night. Previous owner left it disconnected as it revved too high with the stepper motor plugged in. I've since popped the ISC out of the throttle body and fired up the ECU. It's clearly not going back to where it should be- it protrudes slightly. When the EU is powered on, the motor makes a noise and the nipple that controls airflow rotates, but it neither extends or retracts. Is there a way to override it and reset it? I've read up on the ECU Hold Power thing but have no idea how it works. I have the PCLink setup and I'm happy using it.

Yep, I've got the input wires worked out on the X20 connector, so I just need to work out how to get an output from the ECU. Does the Link G4 have capacity for a coolant temp output?

Proof that it exists.

Right... panic over... just needed to reinsert every damn pin so they were located properly, thanks Ducie... *idiot alert* It works! Praise be Jesus!! Now I just need to work out how to get the factory coolant temp gauge working... can't see a programmable feature in the Aux Outputs, am I missing something or does this need to be done a different way?? Same goes for alternator voltage...

Right... the new terminals are in, and the white bits on the plug are now refusing to go back down... what have I done wrong?

Terminals purchased... time to right all the wrongs. I'll have to get photos up of the wiring at some point; it's really quite special.

Thank you Adam. I'll get searching! And as for wiring in the wideband... similar sort of principle? I've done some reading and I'm aware I'll need a controller unit of some sort. I'm just terrible with the electrics side of things, I'm fine with mechanical..! First standalone ECU I've ever had!

Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for an AEM. I did see that Link do recommend an Innovate LC1, but I'll do some more asking about. OK sweet, I'll try again with the wire run slightly better..! On that note, how easy is it to add wires into the ECU plug? I've stolen the ISC Stepper wires for now- as it's not connected- but I'd rather use Aux 1-4, not stealing a 5-8 connection from the currently defunct Stepper. The temp sensor isn't a BMW one. It's down as the Bosch one with all the numbers on the software. I'll try bridging the wires and see what happens.

I've had an E36 with a 5.7 LS1 in it for about a month now (terrific fun, I'm not dead yet either!) Got a few questions pertaining to the management- it runs a Link G4 Storm. It looks like it was setup by someone who possibly had an inkling of what they were doing, but... at the same time, it wasn't very well done. Niggles are as follows... 1) no Lamdas or wideband fitted. I'd like to fit a wideband setup- what's recommended for an LS1? 2) the tacho, when connected, was jumping all over the show. I'd like to think this was because I was trailing the wire right over the HT leads at the time, causing it to bounce about... I'll try again in the morning and we'll see what the deal is. Unless you can't use a stock E36 tacho wire with a Link G4 Storm..? Any light to be shed on this would be great. 3) the coolant temp sensor refuses to read above 52ºC... guessing the sensor is goosed, or incorrectly specified? Thanks in advance.