cj

grab a log while this is happening and check for the following to determine if its a problem with the throttle body control, or further up the stack. TP target % vehicle speed (may be LR wheel speed or similar) TP main % MAP If TP target % is moving up and down in time with the behaviour you are describing, then the ECU is changing what its actually requesting and the problem is further up. If TP target is constant, but TP main % jumps around in time with your problem then its a PID control issue. Also, make sure MAP & vss show some kind of change to match the feeling you describe. If the ECU isnt showing speed changes or load(MAP) changes, at all, then it might be something outside of the ECU entirely (abs, alignment, tyres, etc)

This should get you started k20z4-27-550-ve-566.pclr Its running EvoX injectors so you will need to change the injector config to whatever you have. The inputs & outputs will need adjusting to your vehicle too, this is in an mr2 with ethrottle. If you are cable throttle you will need to set up idle control separately.

Yep, the value you want is "% ethanol", but through some quirk of the UI, if you search for either "%" or "ethanol" you wont find it. filter by "alphabetical" and its the very first one. Yours bounces between 78 & 79% in that log. The same sensor provides eth% and fuel temp, all over the same digital input. Just a guess, but the second O2 sensor (or its controller) may not be wired to anvolt8. Its quite possible this was the factory wiring input for a narrowband o2 sensor, and isnt connected to anything at all right now. You could try changing one or both of these to "voltage 0-5v" so they log the raw values received, then drive to the end of the road and back. The voltages you receive should give you some idea if any device is connected to that pin. I'm sure somewhere there is an OEM sensor that has 5 wires on a narrowband sensor, but you are correct that any of the common bosch 4.2 or 4.9 5-wire sensors are wideband.

bit of a caveat - we can only see what is *configured* in the ECU. If something is wired up but the input is configured as disabled, we wont see it in your log or config. The only inputs you have configured are coolant & intake temp, MAP, 4x inputs from pedal and throttle position, and 2x lambda sensors, neither of which gives a useful reading, then wheel speed, brake & clutch switches, AC state, and ethanol % & temp as Digital inputs. I don't think its the case, but you may also be getting some info in via CAN with the pre-defined audiTT can config you have set up. You don't have any multi-fuel setup so even though the ECU knows you have ~80% ethanol, it does not apply any corrections because of this value - if you ever change to non-E85 or get low quality E85, your tune will not compensate for this. The innovate LC1 it looks like you have on ANVolt9 is outputting its the max rich voltage the whole time, so its clearly not working right - maybe dead sensor to match your gauge? The narrwoband sensor you have configured on ANvolt8 is similarly reading a constant, junk value, which is so low it may not even be hooked up (max lean value). This type of sensor is borderline useless anyway even if it works so I wouldnnt bother trying to fix it. The 5 wire o2 sensors typically need an external controller to convert the signals into something the ECU can use, then either CAN or a voltage input to the ECU. follow the wires and see where they connect? Your gauge will have a version of this controller inside it for the second o2 sensor. Similarly, an EGT probe needs a controller and cannot connect directly to the ECU

Those stats are potentially quite old - 2315 starts & 272hours of engine runtime. it may be time to clear them out. In this particular log, inj DC only hits 52% and ECU temp is 37-38 deg which is fine. Your Lambda sensor is not connected in this log so we cant comment much on fuelling or the possible lean condition your tuner talks about. Your injectors however are no where near maxed out, so if you are running out of fuel, and increasing the numbers in your fuel table does not help, you might want to get a fuel pressure sensor installed and check that you aren't losing pressure (ie that your pump can flow enough, filter not blocked, big enough lines, etc). There are no trigger or cam errors, and your dwell looks consistent, so no obvious evidence of timing issues. I have no idea if your ignition angles are "good" for this engine as i'm not familiar with them. They look reasonably normal for a modern 4cyl turbo though. What specifically are you concerned about?

No, the green Ground out/sensor ground wires on both looms are only to be connected to sensors etc. They are designed to be a "clean" ground, so that your sensor does not receive noise via its ground wiring. Do not ground these directly, or wire them as a additional grounds to anything that has a direct engine/battery grounding.

Once you've done the tests Simon suggested, your fuelling pulse widths look really low for 380cc injectors and probably arent helping. I can see at least 3x reasons for this: 1) you fuel table looks like it was originally a traditional map but you are running modelled mode. Try copying the entire fuel table out of the monsoon base map as a much better starting point. You can copy paste the whole thing in 1 go. 2) you have crank enrichment disabled because your enrichment table is all zero's. Again, copy the one from the monsoon base map 3) your coolant temp sensor calibration is probably wrong - IAT is showing 14* but ECT is 56*. on a cold engine these 2 should be nearly the same. Factory toyota coolant temp sensors are usually on the bosch std NTC calibration so i'd suggest changing it to this instead of your current custom calibration. Until you fix this, #2 above will not work correctly as the engine will be using "warm start" values. you have the same problem with zero's everywhere your post start & warmup enrichment table so i'd also suggest copying those from another base map - one taken from any stock 4-6 cyl engine will get you in the ballpark. Until you fix these, you'll find that it starts ok, then dies after 3 or 4 seconds. There is a really good graph in the help files around how the different cold start fuelling values take over from one another in the 30 seconds or so after startup.

It looks like you havent run calibration on either the pedal or the TPS Or go to the ecu controls -> TPS setup menu. the voltages your APS is showing look believable, its just not calibrated right. TPS might be wired ok, but its very hard to tell when the APS calibration is clearly wrong

cam pulses in this sense means the number of trigger edges that the computer expects to see in a single cam rotation (720 engine degrees). With the possible exception of this exact BMW trigger, cam timing only reads the rising or falling edges of the trigger signal, and so "number of cam pulses" means the number of teeth on your cam wheel. By putting it into test mode with VVT disabled/fully retarded and looking at the angles shown, The ECU can tell you what angles it is seeing the pulses/edges at. You then pick the smallest angle and use this as your VVT offset for trigger2. This way when you have test mode off, the ECU can compare the "normal" angle to the current cam angle, and determine how far advanced the cam is because of VVT. The calculation of how it works with multiple cam teeth is a bit more complex, but its conceptually quite simple in that all cam teeth (if you have more than 1) will be advanced by the same amount if the cam advances so you can imagine how the ECU can watch for cam advance as it sees each tooth. From what Adam said above, the BMW cam trigger mode might be special in that it watches for rising and falling edges to give it 2x points of reference. (note that the crank signal will be normal 60-2, just the cam is different, but OEM trigger modes typically define both crank + cam configs in the one setting). Because of this "2 edge" config, i'm not sure if you will see 1x cam pulse or 2x in the VVT test mode. If you see 2x, use the value of the smaller one.

this is the same bosch PN and has a pinout on their website https://www.efisolutions.com.au/bosch-82mm-electronic-throttle-body

What model & year is your pedal from? Here is some generic GM ethrottle pedal info. Maybe one of the pinouts looks like your pedal http://chevythunder.com/drive_by_wire.htm run the link, run 5v to the 2x 5v ref pins, sensor ground to the 2x ground pins, and then 2x free ANVolt inputs to the 2x APP sginal pins. If you have a pedal with 3x outputs, just ignore the 3rd one.

Best place for the air sensor is just before the throttle butterfly. Its usually fine to have it anywhere in the piping between the intercooler and the throttle butterfly too. The can-lambda module draws 100ma for itself and 8A for the sensor heater, so 8.1A. You shouldnt get any interference feeding back from the controller, so just any fuse/circuit near the engine bay that can take an extra 8.1A of load will be fine.

This is probably why your trigger 1 offset is different. Looks like BMW moved the missing teeth 240* relative to TDC at some point. This in itself isnt a major problem as the rest of the trigger pattern will still work fine with the offset changed. Yours is technically 240* different, plus another 360* to get the intake/exhaust on the right strokes. As long as the value you have a) gives you a solid reading on the timing light, and b) is on the right 360* cycle to fire up then your trigger1 offset is fine. Note that if you change this from multitooth to a predefined s52/m52 trigger mode, you need to re-check you timing with a light and the offset may change (because the "zero" position may be different on the OEM mode). You can change trigger type from VR to hall without "breaking" the trigger mode. I think your best bet is to set it to the S52/M52 mode then adjust timing etc until it fires up (try add/remove 360 if the timing light is good but it wont fire at all). http://m54megasquirt3.blogspot.com/2011/09/timing-settings.html Did you copy the trigger2 offset from the help file or check it yourself with a vvt cam test? if you have just used the help file, it may be wrong for your engine. Have the engine idling, then go to VVT -> Setup, and change "cam pulses" to 1 (or try 2 if the numbers jump around when set to S52 trigger mode). You may also need to set VVT mode to single vanos - i've never tried running cam test with vvt set to off now that I think about it. Now press F12 and go to the VVT tab, Cam angle #1 (and maybe 2) should show stable numbers. The lowest stable number (or the only one), is what you should set you trigger 2 vvt offset to be. Your scopes look ok so i'm now thinking either this offset being wrong or not using the OEM trigger mode is causing that inlet trigger error. You need this offset to be correct so that when VANOS advances, the ECU has a reference point of "normal" and can then tell how far advanced the cam is. A circuit diagram of how that VANOS solenoid works would be the best place to start figuring out how to wire + control it. I've found some docs that line up with what you've said about it being on/off, but it looks to me like that might be just because of the slower computer that was installed from factory. The system itself looks to function like a hydraulic variable VVT system with no locking pins etc, and so the link may be able to drive it as such. If you are happy with all or nothing advance, and the wiring doesnt need to be "special" then yep just an on/off switch is fine.

Did you re-check the trigger 2 offset when changing from rising to falling edge? I believe cam-level is just looking for high/lo voltage, but on cam pulse it will be looking for the edges of the transition from hi/lo and so rising & falling numbers will be 360* apart on a cam like this, also if either edge is really close to the missing teeth then you can see errors if it moves about slightly. The LH Inlet cam is reporting an error state of "extra pulses" for that entire log. Trigger scope at idle would really help as it sounds like some additional edges are being seen by the ECU. At idle, the error counter is increasing by about 1 count per 5 rpm, so you may need to run a few captures and look for change between them or something that only occasionally pops up. Is there a reason you are not using the S52 trigger pattern? It sounds like this might be 60-2 + cam level under the hood anyway, but there might be something else special in it. I assume trigger 2 is on your intake cam and not the exhaust? I thought these engines were VVT/phased cams - the older ones intake only and the newer ones on both cams, but your config has it setup like a switched cam (eg vtec). If i'm right, then you would have your cam advance solenoid full open (subject to oil pressure) whenever that AUX3 output is triggered - but it will never trigger with the current config because the criteria is <4500rpm & >7500rpm - it cant ever be *both* these criteria at the same time I suspect it also doesnt help having incomplete VVT setup. You have it kind of disabled by not configuring it, but your log still shows 1-2* of VVT advance happening at anything about ~3k rpm. I cant tell if this is actual cam advance due to oil pressure or just slop in the cam belt/chain. At least set VVT up so the ECU knows to expect it, then set the target table to all 0 if you want it disabled to start with. (switch aux 3 to VVT solenoid & vvt control type to single Vanos, cam angle test = off, test pulse = 1)

Just so i'm clear on this - you're talking about the ign5 pin? (or that same pin location on the factory ECU) - and this test shows that from factory it drives pin ign5 high (ie supplies 12v) to enable the fuel pump relay? In that case,you either need to pull out that wire and connect it to one of aux5-8 so you can also high side drive it from the link, or you need to modify the wiring so you are driving a relay to ground from ign5 (swap some wiring at the relay so the "other" side of the control circuit is 12v switched). Either way its going to end up as a slight modification to swap the factory ECU in & out. The link cant supply any meaningful positive current out of IGN5.

How easily did it fire up when it was running rich? Having a better look through your log file (and not getting hung up on your cranking rpm like I was)... your ignition table says you would be at ~14* ign at cranking, which is a little higher than I would put it (0-5 ish to make the starters life easier, if it will fire like this), but its generally ok. However... your commanded ign angle is 18* spiking up to 30* which is enough to get it to kick back in the wrong circumstances. I'm just figuring out why. How big are your injectors? [edit] - 6deg of the additional timing is coming from your ECT ignition trim table. turn this off for now. [edit2] - it looks like ignition idle control is kicking in @300 rpm and deciding you are way below idle target and throwing 30deg of timing at it. try disabling this for now too, and changing the parameters for it so MAP lockout is 80-90kpa to prevent it coming on during cranking

Have you run all the timing light checks etc? The fact that injectors on vs off speeds up your cranking rpm suggests that its trying to fire and is just really late spark timing so its only providing a tiny bit of extra "push" to the cranking force. The fact that you keep breaking starters may also be part of this if the timing is way off and its bascially sparking against the starter motor. Hypothetically if you were around 170-180 off, your retarded-ish cranking spark angle might be very near BTC and so providing just a tiny bit of extra force, then as RPM creeps up and your timing advances a bit, its actually on the up stroke and then bad things happen to your starter. All just an educated guess though. Can you post your config file, confirm you have run the timing checks (and how you did it because these engines have pretty marginal timing marks from factory), and also confirm that you have run spark and injector tests for every cyclinder and the cylinder numbers all matched up? I'd still want to run a compression test once you fix your starter just to be safe. Also, when you ran the timing checks - did you have the injectors disabled so you got consistent engine rpm? And did you attache your timing light to the coil wiring or an HT lead between coil pack and plug?

I'd run a compression test on that engine. normal cranking speed should be ~250 and that fact that yours spends ~50% of its cranking time running at nearly double this (without the engine firing) suggests to me that some of your cylinders have compression issues. I'd also do this before you properly fire it up as if its a timing issue, it may get worse. Maybe one of the cam advance solenoids is jammed fully open?

How have you calculated/tested the trigger2 offset? I've seen it before where if these are slightly wrong, it can take longer to fire up - I assume it is trying to learn the correct position for itself.

As long as ST205's have an electrionic speedo drive from the gearbox, yes it is with a little re-wiring. Somewhere in the early 90's toyota swapped from cable drive to electronic, and i'm not sure which side of this cutoff your car is. Have look at the top of the gearbox - if you see a 6-8mm thick cable screwed into it, you will need to swap the speed sensor & speedo cluster for an electronic one off a newer model. If its already got a 3 wire sensor coming out of it, you just need to get into the wiring behind the gauge cluster Factory wiring is gearbox -> speedo, then a speed out wire from the cluster -> all other things in the car (cruise, abs, etc). This is because the wiring was all designed when they ran cable speedo's. You need to take the gearbox->speedo wire and connect it to a DI on the link, then connect an Aux out from the link back to the speed in wire on the gauge cluster. Easiest place i've found to get at both is right behind the cluster. You can then configure offset/multiplier/etc on that aux output. There is a chance you wont fix your problem if its actually a flaky speedo drive motor or something sticking in the gearbox pickup, but at least you will have stats on the ECU you can compare to the speedo needle to help diagnose.

That start + stumble + cut out immediately looks similar to what you see with a lack of fuel. Completely off track from the original trigger issues I know, but you are now seeing sensible RPM and no errors. I'm assuming you have run the trigger1 calibration process and seen stable crank marks at the end of it? Have you checked that you have fuel in the tank, and your pump comes on when cranking? Do you have a pressure gauge or sensor anywhere in the fuel system you could check for pressure?

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Nissan/R31 R32 R33 R34 R35 GT-R Skyline/R33/R33_All_Engine_Manual.pdf page EN-268 has pinout for an R33 RB26

Sounds like you have a damaged wire somewhere - could be 12v or ground side though. Or your ECU isnt grounding the main relay enable pin, and so you are just reading the small amount of voltage running backwards through the ECU or some other device. Things I would rule out from your description so far 1) flat battery - if you get 12v anywhere, your battery can clearly supply this much 2) possible but unlikely - you have something connected that is causing a partial short to ground - if you have this big of a short, your fuse should have popped already. First thing, get a wiring diagram as you need to figure out where the injector 12v feed differs from the coil feed. heres one that showed up on google and looks legit https://www.workshopservicemanual.com/m007256-mitsubishi-lancer-evolution-3-ce9a-1995-1996.html I have no idea where you've powered your coils from, but if those have 12v then you can rule out a wiring issue on the path between them and the battery - so at the point this path joins the "normal" path to other systems, you know those are also good from that point back to the battery. Looking at the factory manual, all the other systems you have mentioned are powered from the MPI control relay, and before that its just a fusible link to the battery. I'd start by locating this relay and checking that you have 12v coming in and going out of it. If you have good input but bad output, remember that the relay has to see ground on pin6 to turn on - normally this comes from the ECU but as a test, disconnect the ECU & try grounding from the main relay enable pin in the wiring harness to somewhere on the chassis to enable the relay, then test again - this tells you if its a power wiring problem or a "ECU isnt grounding the control wire for some reason" problem. If its got good output with the ECU connected, test again at every point you can get to that should be "downstream" of this - injector connectors, , and just to be sure, unplug anything you find connected along the way - injectors, EGR valve, idle air valve, etc. To verify the ground side, run a temporary wire straight from the engine block to the ground pin on the ECU and see if things improve. I doubt it will but you need to rule it out. Also, with the key on (to generate some load), set you multimeter to Volts and connect it between battery negative & the engine block, it should read <0.25v. if its reading anything substantial, you have a grounding issue between battery & engine.

Yes with a couple of assumptions. Changing traditional to modelled only affects fuel delivery, so as long as you re-tune fuelling to the same point, all other things will be equal. Eg it doesnt matter how you calculated the amount of fuel to add, X fuel at Y boost pressure is still safe at Z degrees of ignition. Unless you changed mechanical components of the engine/turbo/etc, those tables relate mostly to what is good/safe on your engine, not how much fuel it needs. The bit where you have to at least think about what you are doing though, is that to start with, your fuelling will be off, and so whatever ignition values you had previously used might be potentially dangerous if you are initially running a bit leaner while re-tuning.

On the first scope, trigger 1 arming should be 3v, and trigger 2 about 0.7v @3000 rpm trigger 1 should be 7.5v and trigger 2 should be 2v @5000 rpm trigger 1 should be 11v and trigger 2 should be 3.5v Your polarity on trigger 2 is also backwards - you need to swap over the signal and ground wires. and yes the max you can set is 7v. if the ideal value is higher than this, just use 7v. The point where these values matter most is usually when cranking and the voltages are quite close to the noise floor. At high rpm is pretty easy for the computer to tell noise from real signal. the voltages you are seeing are normal sounding. VR sensors read higher voltages as the speed of the trigger teeth moving past them increases. If anything you trigger 2 voltage is a bit low - does it have a way to adjust the air gap between the sensor and the trigger wheel?