cj

Yep, actuator means the motor itself on the throttle. This will be wired to ethrottle+ and - Internal to the ECU, these 2 outputs are special in that they draw their power from a separate supply (the B5 pin mentioned above). The ECU expects there to be a relay (as per the above diagram) that is feeding power to B5, and it also expects to be able to cut off that power by disabling an aux output - so one has to be configured for this.

Theres quite a few things going on here. There is still something trigger related going on. Notice that your rpm is 16K (which then hits rpm limit), and all 4 cam's are showing "extra pulse". There are times when some or all of the cams report extra pulses even when the rpm (from trigger1) doesnt jump, so its not just that trigger1 goes nuts and causes the cam signals to be invalid relative to trigger1. There are instances of this all over your log. Have you checked the wiring & connectors for the crank trigger are shielded? You havent logged error counts, so I cant tell if its a bug or something gone into lockout, but your exhaust cams are both uncontrolled despite having what looks like a valid config. Note the EX duty cycles are stuck at 30% for the entire log, and the exhaust angles dont follow the target table at all. Your intake cams follow the target under load, but not at the bottom end. Find anywhere on decel or near idle and both intake cams report 8-10* instead of the 1* listed in the target table. This all assumes your map was the same when you took these logs. You havent logged targets for the cams so i've had to assume the table numbers were the target values. Your tuner appears to have misunderstood how ignition idle control works - its absolute values, not additive, so you are idling at -3* and so i'm guessing because of this, your ethrottle is set 7% open at idle. This should probably be more like 3.5% at idle and your ignition idle table changed to have 18 ish as the "zero" column. If its only a race car this doesnt really matter but it would help on a street car.

I havent double checked those values for you , but if you copied those values from a hondata base map they are probably pretty accurate. I've done the same thing myself a few times and things have worked well. Just make sure it was a hondata tune with 270's and not 310's or whatever the newer ones were. Also, the voltage breakpoints in the hondata tunes are different than link default so you have to adjust your axes in the link config or play with excel a bit

best guess without doing any checks... either your key barrel has an issue with the ign output, or you have a badly damaged/corroded ground somewhere and the additional current draw from fuel pumps etc that kick on when you switch the key to ign causes everything to drop out. Easiest place to start is unplug the link, stick paperclips (or something that fits easily without bending contact) into the 2x pins that are ign 12v and ground, then put a multimeter across them. flick the key to on and make sure you see 12-14v across those 2 pins. If its more like 4-8v then you need to start running voltage drop tests on the wiring to the ecu, across the main relay, and from that ground to battery negative. If you see nothing at all, then verify the switch/relay that the power should be coming from, but id be suspcious of your ignition key switch.

Make sure problem #1 is fixed before moving onto #2 here. The previous few messages talked about trigger errors and arming thresholds, have you got that under control now? If that is still an issue, your calibration will not be reliable. Hypothetically... if you have 24 teeth, but for whatever reason the ECU is seeing 25 teeth some of the time (bad wiring, bad sensor, air gap, noise, bent bits on the trigger wheel, misconfigured tooth count in ECU, anything), then it doesnt matter how carefully you follow the calibration process, as you are working with bad data. If you physcially have 24 teeth on 1x wheel and 1x on the other, and you configure this in the ECU, you should be able to crank it (ign+injectors off) and see a reliable 150-200rpm with no spikes or error count. Until you get to this point, there isnt any point trying to run the calibration process as that "25th" tooth will cause it to fire 15 degrees off whenever it gets detected. Did you ever confirm the belt tooth count issue is correct? if its not, your cam would rotate 1/90th of 720 degrees more or less than it should and bad things would happen. I think 3sge's are non interference so you wouldnt get valve->piston contact but your timing will be impossible. set it to TDC and check both cam & crank mark. rotate it 3 or 4 full rotations until crank is TDC again. Check that that cam is also TDC still. If it is, your belt length is fine. [edit] Thinking about the tooth count thing, its not going to matter. If the belt fits with the timing marks correct, it will be fine. Tooth count on the cam & crank wheels is the only thing that matter as far as crank vs cam rotation lining up .the extra tooth on the belt just means more or less slack for the tensioner to pick up.

Open up the table you want to change, press X to open the axis config screen, then click on the value currently used for X or Y axis. Pick a new value, then you have to pick sensible axis points (eg not point using negative values or >100 for TPS%, but MAP bay go to 2 or 300 kpa depending on expected boost)

Yes you can do that. main and aux fuel tables are independent and can have different axes. On the question of *should* you... If you didnt have secondary injectors, a common way to deal with turbo + ITB's which have the same mad MAP signal is to run 4d fuelling where the main table is TPS /rpm and the 4d fuel correction table is MAP/rpm. As long as you only use the secondary table above 100kpa then I think it would work fine - just start lowering the values in the 4d map/rpm table at the same cells as you start bringing in secondary injectors. If you tried to phase in secondary injectors off boost however I can see it causing issues at the phase-in transition point would move around and you would get inconsistent behaviour

There are a few things wrong in your tune, first up the ones that might cause it not to start 1) you mention you are using a distributor, but the ignition config is set up for wasted spark. This must match what is physically there 2) have you run the trigger1 calibration process? Have you tried adding/removing 360 from the calibrated number to check if you are firing on the exhaust stroke? other issues that wont help but are probably not the real root cause. The calibrations on your ECT, MAP, and probably IAT are all a bit suspect. Your MAP sensor should read the same as BAP with the engine off. Yours reads 15kpa higher. both IAT and ECT show ~40C which is really hot for ambient, but maybe normal in you part of the world, but, your ECT calibration maxes out at 100C which is no where near enough and probably means its incorrect. That your IAT matches this makes me question whether it's wrong too. Your fuel map is all 50's everywhere. try copying the fuel table from the monsoon example base map as a better starting point. ECT & MAP being off by small amounts & the fuel thing wont cause no-start, but it will cause it to run like a dog once it does.

If you had a thunder you could possibly drive it from ethrottle 2 using a target table something like this: I've never tried this, and I bet if you used a linear target like this your boost tables wouldnt look normal, but it should work in theory. on an extreme I cant think how you'd do it except with an external controller like Adam suggested. ... maybe you could use ethrottle 1 if you have a cable throttle? you would need to wire up an ethrottle relay to keep the ECU happy.

I think there is something physically wrong with your fuelling system. with 550cc injectors on a 2.0 engine you should have an effective pulse width somewhere between 0.7-1ms. Yours is reporting as 4-5ms but your lamba is only reporting slightly rich. I'd guess either the injectors are blocked up, not actually 550's, or you have stuff all fuel pressure. Or you have something really quirky in your wiring like several injectors wired to a single output? This isnt a tune thing as it doesnt really matter how you get there with the numbers in the tune, that size injector at anything resembling a normal fuel pressure (300-400kpa) must be running around 1ms at warm idle. Once you find the issue, cut your master fuel value at least in half, maybe down to 1/3 to get the pulse rate something more reasonable. Once you have it idling ok, the numbers in the fuel table will behave as expected and you can start tuning it. Can you also please describe how you have your tps main sensor wired up? I think there is some electrical noise getting in to it somehow (and maybe other parts of the ECU control as well). those logs show that its jumping between 5% & 30% 5-10 times a second almost constantly. Maybe that's true because of the way you are testing/driving it, but it seems unlikely. If more important controls are also seeing significant noise it could explain many things

what does the status/error show in device manager?

I vote for gear shift control. a) its the only one with a -30* ign cut b) its set to trigger "powered up shift" above 4500rpm when DI 4 is active.... which is configured as ignition switch so its always active? Like Adam says, its really hard to be certain from that log as there are not many parameters logged. separately... Theres something wrong with your oil pressure sensor. No way do you have identical pressure at 4500rpm and 600rpm

the install path shouldnt be relevant to driver issues as these all get installed in various system folders anyway (and yes they overwrite each other - the latest driver is usually fine though for old versions of the pclink software). right click the device with the yellow mark, go to properties, and see what the status/error is. If it just says something like no driver loaded, re-run the driver installer from your install path - something like C:\Link G4-567\Link USB Drivers (the click the 32/64 bit installer depending on your laptop). Is this win7 or 10? there was an issue with the 566 or 567 drivers not installing on win7 so you had to install those from 565 first. the 566/567 install would then just not touch the drivers and use the old ones, so this shouldnt have broken from an update.

Getting into the more picky things now as its looking ok for a "about to go to the tuner soon anyway" state. 1) your igntion table is quite conservative especially at lighter loads and just off idle. This will make it feel a bit flat and may make it run a bit hotter. I dont think what you've got is dangerous at all though but it could be better. 2) your ethrottle response is still a bit slow. It is recording target match errors some of the time but only in low quantities so again, you could make it feel a lot better to drive than it currently is by making the PID settings for ethrottle more aggressive, but its not dangerous. There are a few posts on these forums on how to tune this better. 3) you're about 250rpm high on your idle rpm vs target. your igntion timing is only at 14* which is factory-ish, or possibly a couple * lower than factory so if it were mine I wouldnt drop idle rpm via lower ign angles, and there isnt much wiggle room in your base idle target table as its all small numbers. I'd drop the ethrottle target by 0.5 in that top row, then bump up all your base idle numbers by 0.5 to compensate, then look at reducing the numbers in the base idle table by 0.2 to 0.3 at temperatures where neccessary to get down to the ~800 rpm target it looks like you want. Best way to do this is from dead cold, fire it up, touch nothing in the car, and as your temp hits the middle of each cell in teh base idle table, bump it up/down until your idle rpm is what you want, then wait until it warms up 10 deg more & repeat. 4) hard to tell from your log, but there are still RH inlet cam errors being counted. The value doesnt go up at all in the log, but it is 200+ right from the start. Your VVT target tables are both all zero's so we cant see cam performance when advancing away from 0. Put somethign like factory numbers in the target tables, or just say 10* above 2krpm on inlet, and -10 on exhaust from the same point, then run another log while revving it up and down a bit so we can see the cams move.

The difference in the current draw between a "low power" coil and a high power one is about 5amp max vs 8amp max. The output Joules seem somewhat unrelated to max input current. There was a really good video on a bunch of the common australian coil swaps floating around youtube where they tested input current & joules of output to the spark plug. Assuming COP's and sequential ignition, the factory wiring can almost certainly supply the <10amps needed to power higher end coils. CDI's are another story but I dont think that's what you are asking here. Running wasted spark doubles the current draw through the harness (assuming shared ground and/or positive feed) so then you *might* want to look at wiring - you probably need at least 12GA wire to support ~20 amps but a lot of factory wiring will be this size already. Peak & hold injectors can draw more current than saturated but again its well under 10 amps per injector (usually more like 4-5) so assuming sequential injection, its probably fine on factory wiring.

what are you currently using as your duty cycle? maybe try adding or removing 10-20% from it and see if that helps. You could also try putting in a 5ohm resistor rather than 10ohm as I seem to recall there was a lot of discussion on the correct value to use with some people even jumpering it with no resistor (but I wouldnt reccomend that). Its been a while since I modded a toyota tach and it was a couple years newer than yours but they certainly *can* function well from a link with just that resistor mod.

first, what sort of inaccuracy are you seeing? there is a way to calibrate before you try before jumping into alternate PWM tables. This assume tacho movement is linear, but just not correct. * multiplier - if the tacho needle only moves 800rpm for every 1000rpm of engine speed, set the multiplier to 1.2 (or 0.8 to correct it the other way) If you have something non-linear in the tacho (correct up to 4k then only moves 500rpm for every 1000rpm or something), then heres how to do generic PWM output instead of a tacho signal. Set an aux output to GP PWM (aux 1-4 will do up to 500hz, 5-8 only 300hz). Note that 500hz only drives a 4 cyl tacho to about 8k. This is a limitation of the GP PWM tables - a normal tacho output can do higher frequency. Set the condition to "only cond 1" and something generic like "rpm > 400rpm" Set PWM frequency to "table" Set the PWM DC table for this aux to all 50% (axis options dont really matter, ive set it to 2x cells of RPM but not required). This value may need to be tweaked for your car Set the PWM frequency table to have only 1x axis of RPM Set the numbers in the PWM frequency table to be the frequency of pulse sent to the tacho at that rpm. [freq = rpm / 60 * number of cylinders .... plus your fixup number]

im guessing the orignal tacho didnt run from an ECU at all as it probbaly didnt have one, but probably from one of the diodes on the alternator instead. You could pop the tacho out and see if it looks similar to the other 90's-ish toyota tacho's where you can just bypass an input resistor to make it accept a 12v sqaure wave. I know a lot of the 4wd forums talk about sourcing tachos from the newer hilux/surfs or from petrol models and swapping the unit over. Google is probably your friend to work out the exact input pulse the tacho expects. The link can only output square wave PWM signals so you can either a) find a tacho that accepts this and swap it in b) modify some resistors etc on your tacho so it accepts this type of signal (tacho dependent) c) get a tacho booster from a few online parts stores (never tried it but apparently you can wire up the coil side only from a relay to get the same high voltage pulse) d) open up your alternator and run a wire from one of the output rectifying diodes to the tacho to get the factory design working again. This will only read correctly if the crank -> alternator diameter ratio is the same as factory. Whether C works depends on the signal it is expecting. I'm not sure if a diesel alternator signal is similar to a coil negative pulse like used on older petrol tach's

logically, *something* has to go to trigger2 (except in a few very special cases, not this one). If your engine had a non-vvt enabled exhaust cam to wire to trigger 2, then the 2x intake cams could be DI1 & DI2. If you dont have a fixed exhaust cam, and so your only 2x cam sensors are the 2x VVT inlets, then 1x of them has to go to trigger2. As far as I know, subaru didnt start putting exhaust cam sensors in until they released the quad AVCS models. Therefore, you only have the 2x inlet cams to work with, so 1x of them has to go to trigger 2. I did notice a typo in the help file where the EJ25 settings are correct, but the early EJ20 AVCS instructions say to use DI1+2 and set trigger2 VVT to none. a) you have an EJ25, and b) the EJ20 settings dont seem to make sense so i'd start with the EJ25 settings anyway even on an EJ20, but then check things before starting it.

You have triggering errors counting up while cranking and erratic RPM signal. Something is wrong with your triggering. Can you most your pclr file as well, and a trigger scope capture? - to do this crank the engine, then while still cranking hit the scope capture button, then post the .llg file here please. trigger1 should be wired to crank trigger2 should be wired to LH cam sensor any DI should be RH cam sensor. what year & model were the old and new engine? maybe you have moved from an older to newer model crank wheel - these changed early 2000's.

duty cycle at idle is pretty misleading because it has so much time between injection events, that the "% on time" is always going to be low. normally i'd look more at "effective pulse width (ms)" as a measure of "normal". On a 1.6 with 550cc injectors its probably in the 0.7-0.8ms range.

this is the 01-07 model? its essentially a corolla and the diagrams I can find for those years show the dash is still driven by 5-10 separate inputs - speed, tacho, various warning lights. celica's in the same year range did have canbus/bean (aka multiplex) but even then it looks like its mostly for the auto trans, and a bunch of stuff from the body module - park brake, door ajar lights etc. Without specific year/model, i'd say you'd get most of it working in a complete rip and replace job.

So the next question then is, with the old intake (that works with an OEM ECU), does the link still work? I'm guessing not given you test with power straight into the ECU, but you will need to fix that issue on the new intake before you connect up a fixed Link or you might break that too. At a guess, you didnt have the ground from the left of the chassis (by the fuel lines) connected. On the older intakes it bolts through one of the intercooler mounts and if you dont have it connected, you get that dash staying on issue as its some important part of grounding the chassis.There is one on the right behind/above the air box which can either go to an intake bolt or to the top of the heads, depending on who last installed your engine. Other thing to consider, is are you using your original wiring and connecting it to the new intake, or did your new intake come with all the wiring attached? That wiring loom contains 95% of the engine->ECU connections, and i'd imagine the pinouts are different between years.

Yep, find any free aux output & set the config to "tacho". This will output a square wave signal that will drive most modern (post ~1990) tachos

On subaru's the dash lights staying on after the key is turned off is usually caused by bad grounds, and it means a bunch of systems are grounding out through places they shouldnt be. The real question is why did your fuse blow? if you overloaded a circuit with too big of a stereo thats one thing, but if you have a short somewhere still in the car all kinds of things could be happening. do you see the power LED on the link light up when you turn the key on? have you checked power & ground to the ECU is still ok?