cj

with the ECU connected, click save as and put a copy of your map somewhere on your laptop. disconnect your ecu, go to file>open, look in C:\Link G4-565\PCLink G4+\Base Maps or wherever you installed the management software. In that base maps folder are all the default maps. Most of them are a bit old and use traditional fuel map, so you can see the fuel numbers in these look similar to yours. Open the monsoon or thunder base maps files. you can then select all the values in fuel1 table and ctrl+c, then open your saved map select all of fuel table1, and click paste. You may also need to change the values on some of the axis - right click to do this. You can also comapre them directly by opening one map, then going to file>compare and it will show you the differences between 2 maps. Click the 3d button on the fuel table to have a look at the shape, its different between traditional and modelled maps - modelled ones look like a VE table with values of around 100 at 3-4k@100kpa, traditional ones are approximately a linear upwards slope starting at about 25-40 around idle in most cases.

Did you start off with a base map that was in traditional mode then switch it to modelled? That fuel table looks to have very low numbers for a modelled setup. Try copying the entire fuel table1 from the monsoon base map over top of your current fuel table 1. This should give you a much better starting point and might mean you can leave your injector details where they should be (assuming you have entered real numbers and not just guessed/left them on defaults). What Adam has suggested should get it to run, but in modelled mode you want your injector data to be pretty accurate before you start tuning it for real - ie you'll have to set your injector flow rate correctly at some point anyway, not just run a deliberately lower flow rate forever.

The warning light is simple enough - configure an aux output as GP on/off, label it "Oil pressure warning" or similar, and set the condition to "oil pressure < 30kpa" or whatever you decide is a good level. This output will be connected to the ground side of your warning light in most cases. the ignition cut you can do a couple ways but you'll probably end up setting a GP RPM limit (under engine protection). turn on GP limit 1, then in the GP limit 1 table, change the Y axis to "oil pressure". You now set the rpm limit to 10000 or something higher than you ever hit in all cells where you want the engine to run normally, and either zero or your idle rpm in all the "failure" cells (ie the low pressure+high RPM cells). you can also do some logging of normal oil pressure and tweak the table using this so that the threshold for "failure" is just below normal at every RPM. If you set the limit to 0 you will stall the engine. There is a startup lockout timer in the GP limit settings that you may need to set so you can actually get the engine to start and have the oil pressure stabilise before it starts limiting it. If you have e-throttle you have another option of setting a second ethrottle target table where the target value never goes above 5 or 10% (or 0 if you want to stall it). You then set the condition for switching to table 2 to be the status of your warning light. This way you can also add in low fuel pressure or any other protection conditions you want to cover by adding them as conditions for the warning light (which could also be a virtual aux if you want the warning light to use different conditions than the thottle table swap.

Reading other people's answers about the ECU side of it, Adam's solution seems like a lot less "trying to make it do something it doesn't want to" than mine. His solution will only have a single "normal" fuel table and the numbers in it will simply drop to ~half what they should be above 150KPA and to 0 above 200KPA, while using the aux injection table for injectors 5-8 with numbers that are 0 below 150, "half" at 150-200kpa, and "normal" above 200KPA. Only slight downside is you have to tune the aux table the traditional way (ms or duty cycle) rather than VE. There certainly seems less chance of strange things happening when the config is this straight forward. You would then use MAP over 150KPA/200 as a condition to turn on your aux outputs that control the fuel pumps/anything else in the system that switches when the fuel changes. I still think its easier and cheaper to just mix your own E85 at home from a big barrel of it....

Couple of ideas come to mind but there would still be some issues to work through with both. 1) have the 2 tanks and 2 fuel pumps, but then put check valves in both lines and bring them together with some kind of selectable valve then through an ethanol sensor before going into a single fuel rail with just the ID2000's. This makes it so the ECU sees it as just a traditional flex fuel setup with an ethanol percentage. Issues you will need to sort out though are a) finding an electronically controllable valve (and then hook it up to an aux output/pwm output) - maybe you need 2x fuel pump controllers, one for each line instead of an actual valve?, b) you will need to run it semi returnless to avoid the mixed fuel getting back into what should be pure ethanol or fuel tanks. Maybe because you have a ethanol sensor you can live with a bit of mixture in each tank and so you could decide to run a return which dumps all fuel into one or the other (or set up a similar valve/dual controller system to switch where the returned fuel goes as well - you will get a little be of impurity because of "wrong" fuel in the line when it switches but at least it wont mean the whole tank quickly ends up in the wrong place) Your ethanol sensor will also need a big hose size for that kind of HP if its on the inlet line, most the ones i've seen have been smaller than you will want on a feed line at that kind of HP. 2) have it physically as you describe with 2 completely separate fuel systems, and configure an aux output to control a couple of relays that provide/block the 12v side of each injector bank, but wire both "injector 1" to the same ecu output. This way the ecu wouldnt see it as multi fuel though, so you will need to treat it like a cam switched engine and just have 2x fuel tables, 2x ignition tables etc, and have it so the ECU switches to the other set of tables based on the same input/output as you are using to control the relay that switches injector banks. You then set this "fuel control" output to be based on TPS/KPA/whatever you want. Issues: a) because the ecu only allows one set of deadtimes and injector size info, you will have to use the info for whichever set it idles on. The deadtimes will be wrong and the flow volume will be completely wrong so you will need to "fix" this by setting your second fuel table to some overly high numbers, or setting the fuel pressure on the second rail lower (which may partly defeat the point of having larger injectors anyway). b) any fuel pressure sensor you feed into the ecu will only be accurate for one of the fuel systems, you may not be able to use this as an input because of this c) You would only be able to get one fuel type or the other like this though, not the 50/50 mix you describe (unless you set up something really crazy like energize both sets of fuel injectors at once, and use a 4d fuel table to drop 50-60% out of the fuel value when in "mixed mode", or some really low values above a certain KPA/RPM so that the fuel from both rails together adds up to the amount you need to run well). You would be fighting against the calculations within the ECU by doing this though so might be a lot of work to get right. [edit] you could also use the dual fuel table in "switchover" mode rather than blend to acheive the same thing for switching between fuel tables. Still doesnt help that the ECU isnt expecting the injector changes. Both systems require an additional fuel tank which could be 50-100kg of weight when full and both seem like a lot of work. Are you sure it wont be cheaper to just buy a barrel of E85/E100 and just mix your own fuel? Good luck

Have you run through the first startup guide in the help file? specifically the bit about setting trigger tooth count and base timing?

Your cam target looks stable, the inlet is stable, and the solenoid duty cycles line up with when changes are actually ocurring. So, it looks like mechanically things are behaving and you have enough oil pressure to control the cams. There are one or 2 points in the log where it does eventually settle down too. Its looks like PID overshoot. Maybe the exhaust solenoids in your car are slightly different than those used to generate the default settings. As per the big warning when you do this, be careful, make small changes at a time, and if things are getting worse, stop quickly and put it back. It looks like you'll need to change the PID mode from default to custom, and then change the settings for both the exhaust cams. Moving the "D" number up a few points should make the cam position stabilise quicker. Comparing the number for intake (40) and exhaust (12), id guess moving it by 5 points at a time is probably safe. If you get it up to 40 and it hasnt helped, try dropping the I value by 0.01, retest, and if needed, drop P by 0.5 and see if that gives you the result you want. Be REALLY careful increasing the "I" value as it can lead to pretty much what you're already seeing where the value constantly misses the target - higher I values cause it to try and get to the target angle quicker (ie too high an I value leads to constant overshoot in both direction) You may want to hold off making changes to this until one of the link guys has had a look to sanity check my suggestion as its not something you want to just play with.

I've had another look at the start of the logs and where it was idling at 1200 ish near the start, the Closed loop control is at -4.2 to -4.6%. This is "added" to the numbers I described in my first post giving you an idle TP value of about 3.5% which is sounds normal. Once you do any of the following for a few seconds it exits closed loop idle and never gets back down to it because your open loop idle throttle numbers are still too high and you're stuck above the idle lockout - AP over 5%, revs over 1400, or speed over 2kph. If you can make your open loop numbers (AP target + base idle postition) add up to give you 3.5ish% throttle target then I think you'll find it behaves a lot better.

The problem you've got is that your ethrottle target never drops below 8%. The target vs actual is tracking really well but the target isnt what you think it is. In the screenshot below you can see your accel pedal is at 0%, and this lines up with the 2.5% in the ethrottle table - giving you the green "base target" of 2.5%. Bottom left corner The way ethrottle works though is that it adds your base target to you idle base position percentage, and uses this combined value as your "target" for the throttle blade. So... 2.5% from the target table, plus 5.4% from the idle table = 7.9% throttle opening - see the 8% throttle position. Then closed loop can add/subtract some % too but in your case this isnt relevant for most of the log because your idle is so high you never get below the rpm cutoff. you need to reduce the numbers in one or both of the idle base postiion table and/or the zero row of your ethrottle target table. I'd typically put 0 as your ethrottle target for the 0% AP row for everything above about 1500-2000rpm, and drop the values in that idle base table to probably more like 1-2% (select the whole table and type "- 3 <enter>" and it should drop all values by 3 points).

can you try swapping the pin on the ECU plug between inj2 and inj3? the plugs can be dismantled if you press the little white tab on the top so it clicks out then you can slide the wire side of the plug back. This is as close to the ecu as you can swap things and will verify that all the wiring is good - if you still cant fire inj3 when its running a known good wire to a known good injector, then you probably have a faulty output on the ECU edit - just saw its a PNP not a standlone. you should still be able to swap the pins on the connector but it will be a different process to get it apart.

Without seeing your map+logs I cant be sure its the same problem, but i've seen a "problem" on ethrottle cars before where the rate of rpm drop is too quick for the ethrottle to "catch" the rpm's as they drop. This is because you would typically have 0 as the target position when the pedal requests 0, but at idle rpm, you would request 2-3% throttle (via either the throttle target table or idle position). When the car was stalling this transition was quite quick - eg below 1500 rpm the 0 row was 2%, and above 1500 it was 0. What happened is that the revs had to drop below 1500 before it would start to open the throttle, and it couldnt notice the problem + open the throttle enough to catch it before stalling. The fix/workaround I ended up using was to taper this in a bit by adding a few more RPM rows between 1000 and 2000 and setting these cells to 0.5% or 1%. This makes it start opening the throttle a bit earlier when revs are dropping. This can cause a little bit of rev hang so I only targetted it at below 2000rpm where this wouldnt be an issue. I'd like to hear if anyone has fixed this a different way, maybe with some idle control settings? I couldnt see a way to get around the fact that idle control had basically the same problem in that it didnt have long enough to fix the problem when the rpm was dropping quickly usually because of the speed lockout. Has anyone tried disabling speed lockout in ethrottle idle control so its active whenever you put the clutch in below certain rpm?

if it idles ok then your spark must be firing at somehwere between about -10 and +40 deg and must be somewhat stable or it simply wouldnt idle. When you ran the timing procedure I assume the engine was off? can you try re-running it with the engine at idle? If you've already got it running you arent likely to do any damage by running the timing calibtration as well. Your timing light doesnt have an advance dial on it that is getting bumped? this should be set at 0 if it has one.

Like Adam said, make sure your battery is charged too as that's your first problem before you even get to calibrations etc. I'm a bit surprised your starter even cranks at 7.1v. If its cranking fine and a multimeter says ~12v across the battery, but your seeing this low of a voltage at the ecu, check that all power and ground feeds to the ecu are connected properly.

Have you run through the first time startup guide in the help file? It looks like you havent and still need to calibrate a few things - specifically your MAP and BAP are 6 kpa apart when they should be nearly identical with the car off, and your tps shows 4.8% constantly, which seems unlikely on a mechanical throttle. There are a whole lot of steps in there to check and calibrate all kinds of important settings before you can start it up.

can we get an updated pclr after the changes Adam suggested, and log of it starting and failing, then starting and staying on as you give it gas - with the additional logging paramters? Its probably not the cause of this particualr problem, but your IAT is reading -23 deg C but your ECT is 14C. Id guess at least one of these sensors is running the wrong calibration. Are these both the factory toyota sensors?

Just remove this and run aux4 straight to your tacho. You can set a multiplier in the tacho out settings so that the DI output will be what a mismatched tacho will expect multiplier of 0.75 should be right for a v8 on a 6cyl tacho. Dont expect your key on sweep to be perfect though and dont use that to "tune" your tacho multiplier they tend to be a couple hundred rpm off. get it idling and only adjust this if the logged rpm value doesnt match the tacho needle.

You can still check if its a config thing or a wiring thing by pulling off the fuel hose from the rail and setting the fuel pump aux output to test(On) then flipping the polarity. That's bypassing any ECU config and just checking if "when ecu says go, fuel pump goes". If you cant get fuel to come out of that pipe via any setting on the aux1 pin, then there is a wiring problem, somewhere. If there is a setting that makes it spew fuel everywhere, then we're back to figuring out the right settings in the ECU

When he's trying to test it just set the fuel pump output (aux1?) to "test (on)" and then flick polarity to high or low until it works. You could do the same thing if you've got the pipe at the fuel rail pulled off nad pointing at a bucket, with key on, one of those settings should send fuel everywhere (and then set it back to "fuel pump" and set your polarity based on what you find). If neither high or low polarity makes it run flat out, there is something in the wiring (are the relays wired up right, is there a secondary FP controller?) or your pump is faulty.

Second bit of logic then - your most important sensors are those in the engine. Fuel level sensor a bit off, who cares, crank position a bit off = badness. If the ECU is using the same reference point for ground as the sensor, then any ground offset is minimized. There is always going to be some electical noise in the engine bay and any engine sensors + wiring are going to see it. If the ECU sees the same level of noise (on its ground, not directly on the chips etc inside it), from a relative standpoint, the signal is still "correct". You can shield individual wires but you cant shield the whole engine on the ground side. The assumption here is always that a cable designed to flow current is going to be lower resistance and more consistent than a path through the body - even in your tube frame there are welds, possible different types or thicknesses of metal etc, and certainly no shielding. By the same logic, putting the ECU near the engine not only helps packaging (usually), but means any signal wires including ground have a shorter run, reducing losses in the cable and essentially the length of the antenna(wire) that can pick up EMI.

Most cars will run a rather large cable from the battery negative direct to the engine, and a smaller one to the body. This means your best "source" of ground is usually the engine block because its got the biggest path to battery negative. By the same logic, the engine is a big solid chunk of metal that conducts current pretty well so you get very low resistance from one side of it to the other. The sheet metal in the body is very thin, has numerous stich or spot welds, and is a relatively high resistance path back to battery negative.

Way back at the start you said you have a NON vvti 1uz right? your trigger pattern is set to "1uzfe", but looking at the help file this is only for VVTI models. The 1uz (non vvti) should be set as below - note the multi tooth mode rather than 1uzfe. They reckon the trigger offset should be -4 rather than the -5 you are seeing too. Its really close so will fire up regardless, but set the triggers as below and re-run the timing check while being really careful to check if -4 or -5 looks closer to the line.

probably somewhere in the region of 15 +/- 5 given the fuel table numbers you posted above. have a look at some of the base maps to get an idea what most traditional mode fuel tables look like too. You will still be able to find a master fuel number that lets it start, but your table looks very flat compared to most of them so it may lean out quite badly at anything above idle. Getting that wideband connected will really help you see whats going on once its started.

To fix the "speed not selected message", Under chassis and body you need to go into speed sources and set driven wheel speed source to something relevant - probably LR wheel speed in an RWD car with a gearbox based speed sensor.

How did you use cam switched to trigger a shift light? I'm guessing you dont actually use cam switching and were happy with just on/off for the light? For the link guys: If any of the aux outputs 5-8 are set as "shift light PWM" then it lets you select high side drive (as do most other functions on those outputs), and from memory it did actually work until the ecu is power cycled and it changes itself to low side drive. Would be nice if the firmware either worked, or at least didn't let you set high side drive if its not going to work anyway.

I found the same bug a few months ago and had to re-wire the shift light to low side drive