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Any number of frequency dividers can be used to reduce ABS or high frequency gearbox sensors down to sub 500Hz levels. Dakota digital make a simple to use box that does this, but you can also build your own out of about $15 of parts from jaycar using a 4024 frequency divider chip (I have one on a modern honda gearbox reducing it by /16). If you put this divider between the point you splice into the wire and the ecu, you can leave the ABS in tact. FYI I also found in testing that the DI inputs can accept slightly higher than 500Hz - about 1300Hz (@12v) they go from reading ok to just reading 0hz until a few seconds after you bring the frequency back down. I wouldn't recommend using them like this though on purpose as i'm sure there is a reason Link dont recommend over 500Hz, but if you hit 501Hz briefly it will still register correctly.

If its ethrottle you can create a second throttle table which maxes out the requested throttle position at say 10% and set the triggers for when to switch throttle table to "diff fuel pressure then than X OR oil pressure less than Y"

You need to make/buy a test lead like AdamW has said, connect it between the coilpack and the spark plug for cylinder 1, then go to the calibrate timing screen where you earlier said you set the timing to 4 or 234. I'm sure there are more detailed instructions in a section of the help file, but you need to then get a timing light connected to this test lead, and then disable fuel (injection mode off, or pull the fuse for you fuel pump). Find in the service manual(or google) what angle the timing marks are on your crank, set the "set base timing to" number in the calibration screen to match the value of your timing marks, then start cranking. adjust the trigger angle number until the timing light matches the timing marks on the crank (and remember to press enter after you type a number in). Once you have this set (and the delay to a sensible default, maybe 50ms), then re-enable fueling, save your config, and try to start it again. Once its running and youve got fuel rough enough, go back to the calibtration screen and give it some revs and check if the timing appears to drift at mid-high revs. Do not change your trigger angle, but adjust the delay until the rpm based drift goes away.

Have a read of this post. Seems like it works but probably not preferred

The ethrottle itself is certainly that because of the big black and white wires. I don't imagine the service manual would change half way through so the pedal is likely the same. (looking into the connector, clip at the top)

Colours will vary by year but pins should be the same. Heres what it is on a 2005 Legacy Pedal 1 LY +5v 2 R Signal Sub 3 GB +5v 4 L Ground 5 B Signal main 6 YG Ground Throttle 1 W D4 Motor - 2 B D5 Motor + 3 LW Ground 4 R C29 signal sub 5 P C16 +5v 6 W C18 signal main

try turning off pull-up for both triggers. both are pegged at 4V output the whole time.

If the battery light is flashing up on the dash (plus others) its probably not charging at all, and when you rev it the additional drain is dropping the voltage low enough to trigger the light. Do you have a wiring diagram for the car? A lot of cars have a "field" wire to the alternator that needs to be provided with 12v at key on so alternator will provide charge. if this came via the ecu or a relay that you changed wiring on and now isnt hooked up it can cause what you're seeing. So could 1) a faulty alternator 2) the ground for the alternator not being hooked up (if it was spliced into or through the ecu wiring which is now different) 3) some alternators have a "kill switch"/low output wire where they can be signalled to turn off (at low load or full throttle usually). depending on the factory behaviour of ground vs 12v vs floating this wire may now be permanently signalling the alternator to switch off.

https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Female-Sensor-Adapter-Reducer/dp/B00NWZ3TUI looks like the sort of thing a lot of welding or gas supplies stores would have. Or order one from amazon/ebay.

The diagrams all look correct for a 5v pullup. If none of them are working, and you'd rather spend time than money in replacing the sensor, I think you need to start testing the behaviour of this sensor to confirm what's written in the manual. Can you measure its resistance while the car is off? Do you see any fluctuations like in the graph when its got 5v supply? Can you measure its resistance again with the car running - but the sensor still dicsonnected from the ecu. Do you have a multimeter that measures frequency or duty cycle, if so can you power it from the 5v line only (no pullups, no signal wire), and measure across the sensor to see what if any frequency type signal is happening. can you either wire it from the 5v line with a bulb in series as described in the manual, or build a battery pack from 3x AA batteries to test the same thing? Do you still have the original dash you could wire up to confirm the sensor still works and how it behaves? old toyota dashes ususally have pretty obvious traces on them so you can figure out which of the 3 or 4 pins you need to liven up pretty easily.

Can you draw a simple diagram of how you have this wired? is your resistor a pullup to 5v, a pullup to ground, or in series with the signal wire? Have you also tried confirming the behaviour in the manual? get 3x AA batteries and tape them together with some wires to make a nearly 5v battery pack, wire positive directly into the sensor with a bulb in series and ground the negative side to the chassis, and check you actually see the pulsing behaviour you expect. See if you get pulses or a dimmer/brighter bulb.

Is it a standard 1/8 NPT thread? might be easier to just buy an aftermarket sender that has a known resistance vs pressure slope. If you want to keep that sensor... looking at your log again after that explanation, it does sound a lot like a pwm type implementation, similar to how a speedo works with pulses. In some cases you can read pwm signals as analog voltages anyway if the duty cycle changes. If its always 50% duty cycle but the frequency changes, the average voltage is always the same though, this looks like what you're seeing. Try connecting it to one of DI 1-6 instead and given you have an external pullup already, disable the internal pullup in the config. you can set these inputs to "frequency". See if that gives you some correlation between oil pressure and the numbers seen by the ecu. If it is the case that its sending frequency, i'm not sure how you can tell the ECU that the frequency it receives correlates to oil pressure. Maybe someone else has figured this bit out

These are a single wire sensor right? From a 90's toyota with a single wire its extremely unlikely to be pwm, and that engine off graph is probably supposed to be 5v constant but there may be a loose wire or something. The way you've wired it up should give you a 0-5v output as the resistance of the sensor changes, but without knowing the actual resistance values and what that sensor's max pressure is I cant tell you whether its going to be a full 0-5v or more like 0-2v. Is the dash gauge still wired up? you could approximate the voltage vs pressure numbers from this compared to your logged voltage. Is that second graph when the engine is cold? Oil pressure stays pretty high regardless of revs until the oil warms up, then it tends to sit relatively stable above say 2k, but at idle revs it can drop off quite sharply. If the size of your resistor isnt quite right that 0.6v - 1.9v you see may be the extent of normal range.

Do you have a clamp multimeter? Check what the actual current draw is

How much charge is in your battery? What happens to your voltage if you turn on the headlights instead of the fuel pump? Assuming 2x 55w bulbs @ 12v you should get about 9amp draw. If you see the same of bigger voltage drop from the lights, its your electrical system not being up to scratch (flat or too small battery). If the 9amp from the lights is fine, but the 4amp from the fuel pump causes an issue, first check that you are actually only drawing 4amp with a clamp multimeter, then start checking for damaged wires to the fuel pump that might be shorting or grounding.

I take it your fuel table axis is MGP and not MAP? 12" vaccuum is about -40.5kpa so those 2 numbers line up as long as we're talking MGP. On a stock engine that's not much vacuum but with a big cam its probably in the ballpark.

I think this might take a couple iterations to get right. There are a few seemingly separate issues here. First up the triggering - at idle your trigger 1 error count doesnt change, so it doesnt look like a tooth count problem or it would increase once per rev. I'd guess its either a really noisy signal or your triggering thresholds are set too close to the noise floor and when the noise creeps up, the filtering level isnt enough and the triggering errors come in. Can you take a trigger scope with it at idle? Until we see this its hard to tell if its interference or just signal level threshold calibtraion. Second, its pretty rich - about 0.76 lambda most of the time so its nearly at the limit of too much fuel to run, if you're sticking with traditional model for now, try dropping your master pulse width until your idle afr is up to 0.85 or leaner - or at least until it sounds happy at idle. You may need to increase your cranking fuel encrichment if it wont start after doing this. Third, your alternator doesnt look to be hooked up, you're seeing 11.4 ish volts at all times. Forth, if you look at the status messages coming from the lambda sensor, your log starts with it at normal temp of just under 800C, but an error of "heated too long", just before it drops the lamba1 signal it reports a temp of 0C, then it looks to reset, begin the heating+diag process again. It never really recovers - the temp flicks up for a couple seconds at ~680 which looks right, but then 10 seconds later it says "RE over voltage" and says the temp is ~20C which I dont believe with the engine still running. I'm not 100% sure whats going on there but I'd start by checking your wiring between the sensor and the can lamba controller and the various power feeds to both are correct. I dont see any CAN errors at all so I dont think its the ECU>CAN Lambda side that is the problem.

Try chaning TPS sub closed to 4.31v , I think you've accidentally copied the max value from TPS main Also in your screenshot the second graph shows TPS sub and its voltage side by side, but the top graph show TPS % but APS voltage. Be careful not to use these voltage for TPS.

Your tracking for TPS main now looks ok (at least up to ~4% as shown in your log), The tps sub signal looks like its calibrated wrong. I can see the voltage at what I assume is closed throttle is nearly 1v higher than what you have configured. Leave the PID's as they are now as the look good enough to start with, and run through the "manual" tps calibration again as suggested by integrale8v above. Be sure to log the 2x AN volt channels that are connected to tps main and tps sub and set the min/max values for each channel as seen in the log.

given the 3d issues as well, i'd say graphics drivers. Try getting the official asus ones which are sometimes different to the intel/nvidia/ati ones. A lot of those more powerful laptops have some sort of onboard vs offboard video card switching too. Make sure you have the drivers installed for both video cards, and as a test try forcing the offboard card to be always on/always off.

When you say back together, what did you change while it was apart, and did you remove anything that coulf affect the timing? trigger wheels, cams, etc? What do you mean by not firing - is it close to catching, backfires out the intake, nothing at all? It looks like its taking quite some time to register RPM after the start signal, and near the end of the cranking the rpm jumps up from ~170 to about 320 so I wonder if your trigger signals have become a bit messed up somehow. Could be worth running a trigger scope capture and checking for anything strange. Maybe need to re-check your base timing if that might have changed with the work you've done.

Your PID settings look good enough - your target vs actual tracking is pretty accurate. The numbers in your TPS calibration dont line up with the max/min voltages seen by the ECU though, so its like at clsoed throttle its actually reading -10% for example. The biggest problem is that the latest log now shows voltages for main and sub both moving over a full range of motion, no 70% stop on the sub signal like you have configured. Try changing the tps sub percentage to 100% and get another log please. If you look at the TPS voltages rather than the percentages,it shows TPS main as 0.66v minimum and 3.12v maximum. These should normally be your closed and open numbers. Your config has closed and open numbers as 1.051 and 2.972. The 100% value looks to match the steady state open throttle voltage of 2.97v, but it spikes above 2.97v up to 3.12v for a little bit each time you snap the throttle open. I'd suggest leaving open voltage at 2.97 for now but changing the closed number to match minimum value. At the closed end the throttle it has to get to several percent open before it will register any movement off the closed position. Try changing the TPS main closed value to 0.66v TPS sub shows 2.21v min and 4.93 max. Again your open value of 4.966V looks close enough, but your closed value of 2.698 means the sub sensor also wont see any movement until a few percentage points of movement. Try changing the closed value to 2.21v. I also noticed something strange in your log - the minimum values are usually 0.66v and 2.21v, but at 27 sec, 39 sec and at 45 sec it attempts to return to 0% throttle, but the voltages sit above the closed voltages. I'm assuming this is just because once it drops below the expected minimum it will stop driving the throttle shut, so its probably just physically at 2-3% open. Theres a chance though that your tps does have issues and isnt registering the closed voltages consistently. You'll need to change the closed calibration numbers and re-run the log with all values present to check.

That lean spike at about 2:25 happens right when your engine temp first hist 90 deg C. You have Engine fan 1 enable temp set to 90 deg as well, and that looks to come on at the same time. Looks to me like the engine load going up a bit because of this fan. Your revs drop a little at the same time, and battery voltage drops from ~13.7 to around 12 for a few seconds. You have engine fan step set at +1.8% in the ethrottle calibration which should prevent this, but it doesnt seem to have kicked in here for some reason. Maybe someone else can see why not? On a separate note, your TPS sub signal is sitting at 20% while the TPS main is at 3.4%. This will cause it to error out after a few minutes and disable your ethrottle. It looks to move up and down with the TPS main signal so hopefully just needs recalibrating.

Based on your log try these settings main closed voltage: 0.95 main open voltage: 4.41 sub closed voltage: 2.56 sub open voltage: 4.93 sub 100 percentage: 60% [edit]if that dip in voltage at the start of the log is not just an anomaly, and represents actual 0% TPS, then you need to use the value below. Does it look like the at rest position of the throttle blade is completely shut or does it look 2-3% open, and only fully closed when pushed/driven shut? Once you get it pretty close, can you run the calibration wizard to fine tune it? main closed voltage: 0.66 main open voltage: 4.41 sub closed voltage: 2.21 sub open voltage: 4.93 sub 100 percentage: 62.5%

How are you confirming you're not receiving signal to the injectors? Is it just not starting or are you probing some of the wiring with a multimeter? High impedance injectors is correct If you pull out a spark plug immediately after cranking it is it wet with fuel? When you ran the tests, have you got injector1 and ignition1 firing the same cyclinder, and the same for the other 3?