cj

Check the factory wiring diagram for what connects to the AC amp directly. I dont know about ZZ30's but in the SW20's a lot of those signals about rpm, coolant temp, ac pressure etc all were directly wired to the AC amp and so it was all independent of the ECU. In fact depending on the model you only got 2x wires into the ecu that effected the AC, one was a "ac is on" input signal from when the AC clutch was engaged, and the other was a wire between the AC amp and the ecu that the ecu could ground out to make the AC switch off. To set up your own rules for that you would follow Simon's instructions above once it's wired in.

Your config looks like its running a 2GRFE right? What car is this engine out of? Probably a good idea to get the service manual for the donor car and see how the factory aircon control is supposed to work. If you're lucky the majority of the system will be independent of the engine and ECU and the only signals you'll have to deal with are aircon clutch trigger (usually low polarity to enable it) and a "aircon is on" signal. Depending on the donor car AC system there may be a bunch of signals around water temp, AC line pressure, AC request switch on the dash. If you're lucky all of this will go to the AC amp and you can leave it do do its thing and just deal with 2x signals I mentioned above. Are you keeping the mr2 aircon amp or trying to run all the safety stuff (pressure switches etc) from the ecu directly?

This guy has a really good process on how to observe and reverse engineer canbus signals http://bobodyne.com/web-docs/robots/MINI/CAN/MINI_CAN.pdf His example use a mini but the process applies to everything. Its basically push the car through some known states eg press gas pedal, speed up, slwo down, turn steering wheel. Graph the output of each stream of data coming across the can bus, then try to map what you did to something you can see happening on the canbus. I've done this myself on a subaru using one of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dual-Channel-USB-To-CAN-Analyzer-DeviceNET-iCAN-VRMS-CANOpen-J19339-CAN-Analyzer/32359550686.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.TSYAka&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10345_10342_10547_10343_10340_10341_10548_10541_10084_10083_10560_10307_10175_10060_10155_10154_10056_10055_10539_10537_10312_10536_10059_10313_10314_10534_10533_100031_10103_10073_10102_10557_10142_10107,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=c137e58f-7221-4cd6-8e73-88f833c9f482&algo_expid=3d31339c-5443-452b-a5c7-85399dba71d8-0&algo_pvid=3d31339c-5443-452b-a5c7-85399dba71d8 It looks really daunting to start with as literally nothing has labels, but as soon as you get your head around which devices are which ID's you can start to focus on things that matter - eg tacho signal has to come the ecu, speed has to come from the abs computer (check wiring diagrams but this is usually true) so you have a pretty good idea where to look, graph each block of data, then look for a graph pattern that matches what you did with the vehicle, then work out the scale of it. You may want to start by watching the ID's that are present and the time intervals of them and disconnecting abs/ecu/body control computer/etc to start with as the first step. Remember you dont have to understand all of it, just the signals you are sending from the ecu or receiving via canbus (eg speed)

Is this a 3sgte powered mr2? rev1/2 or rev3 engine? What colour wire is connected to the AC pin on the link? The service manual and wiring diagram for all 3sgte's doesnt even show an AC control circuit coming out of the ECU. It shows pin A10 (B/W) as input to the ECU so it knows when the AC clutch is engaged so it can idle up and thats it. All other signals about water temp, AC pressure, etc all go direct to the AC amp and never touch the ECU. The one bit thing that _might_ be relevant is that the AC amp receives a tacho input signal (black wire from IG- on the coil, same as the one to the tacho), and apparently uses some internal logic to disable the AC clutch at high RPM. Unless you've done a COP conversion or otheriwse chaneged the tacho signals this should still be in place. From the 2nd gen service manual: Second gen is a little different on the pinouts for 5sfe's but 3s's have the same AC control regardless of 2 vs 3 generation. On the 3rd gen engines, the same thing applies to 3sgte's but 5sfe's are a little different and the service manual states: 3SGTE 5SFE Things that are the same on both End result of all of this, is that the ACT pin was never used on 3sgte's from the factory, so you dont need it. If you want to set some logic to control the AC activation (eg above 75% throttle) then you can wire the ACT (Pink-Green) wire to an output that you set Low Polarity (ground) = "triggered" to disable the air con compressor (the air con amp outputs a 12v signal so floating or 12out on the link output will do nothing). If you have a black-white wire hooked up to a link _output_, you should really disconnect it as any result you are seeing from placing 12v/ground signals on this wire are because you are providing current to what should be the output side of the aircon activation relay and you are bypassing the aircon amp or possibly feeding current into the wrong side of it. b-w wires in all the factory manuals are some form of input signal (as far as aircon is concerned)

Have a look at your firewall - is it straight up and down, on an angle one way or another? Maybe get some pics then just go down to a friendly wrecker and have a look through whatever ethrottle pedals they have in stock. make sure they are willing to sell you the last 6 inches of the wiring harness to connect the thing too. I think I paid $40 for one. Its preferable that its from a common model of car or one on the link helpfile list too so you can get pinout diagrams for it, but you can figure these out if you have to anyway with a multimeter.

You'll need to check the wiring in your own car to determine how its wired up. Its likely gearbox > dakota > dash + ecu, but you can set these things up many different ways. Is it the factory dash? the link acceptable input range is in the same ballpark as what most 90's dash's expected, and that TR6060 probably outputs a much higher frequency being quite a new gearbox, so i'd guess the dakota box is used to drop the frequency to something the dash and ecu can both use. Conveniently, most 90's japanse cars used the same number of pulses per km for their dashes, so you can probably just splice into the dash+ecu speed signal and run an additional wire to the speed input on the steering ecu. Get out your multimeter and figure out which wires connect to where so you can be certain. You've got 3x options 1) use the link as a frequency converter and run a new speed output wire from link > steering ecu 2) connect from one of the dakota outputs to the steering ecu 3) if youve already got the right frequency running into your dash you can add a wire to this so its connects to the steering ecu as well. Only #1 will give you personalisable control over the level of assist. The other 2 will both take the real speed and feed it to the steering ecu so it will follow the factory speed vs assist calibration.

On both electric and mechanical driven SW20 speedo's, the dash is the source of the speed signals for the entire car (ecu, power steer controller, criuse control etc). On the electronic drive models there is a wire from from the gearbox sensor to the dash, but still a completely separate output from the dash to everything else. The factory setup has a pullup within the ecu (not sure if 5v or 12v), and the speedo itself "outputs" ground pulses. This means you will need to configure the link ecu to use a pullup resistor on this output circuit, or add one in externally. Safest bet would be to pull it up to 5v to start and if that doesnt make the power steering ecu behave, pull it up to 12v. The other useful control on these pumps is a pin labelled PSCT or EF1 (Blue/yellow - pin14) on the wiring diagrams - that functions as a kill switch for the power steering - ie in factory config its used to disable power steer when the engine is off to replicate how a hydraulic pump would behave. Leaving this pin floating lets the PS ECU do its thing. Grounding this pin makes the ps ecu disable any steering assist - ie you can set the link to ground an output above 50kph to turn the steering back to manual above this speed.

According to that factory wiring, all the shielding on the crank/cam signal lines connects to the throttle body ground. As per AdamW above you should only connect sheilding to a single source so it looks like you leave this alone as far as ECU connections go. You could disconnect just the sheilding wires from the TB ground and connect it to the ECU's shield ground if you want but make sure its one or the other, and dont disconnect the whole TB ground bolt as its what your ECU uses as its ground connection. After looking at the diagram a couple of my comments above need changing: On an AUTO engine the VTA connection is throttle position but on a manual, its just idle and "not idle" as you initially suspected so you will need to run without TPS or replace it with the sensor off an auto (or an aftermarket TPS) The 12v/14v wiring shows you should use pin 3-7 (+B) as your input to the ECU as this wire runs from the output of the EFI relay. - do NOT use the BATT line as I first suggested. this appears to run directly from a permanent battery feed so I have no idea why it says "EFI relay"on the description. The other +B line on 3-1 isnt even shown in the diagram. There are also 2x vacuum solenoids marked "VSV boost" and "VSV TB ICV", and something marked boost control. One of "vsv boost" or "boost control" will be your boost control solenoid, but the one marked "boost control - BC" looks to be high side driven from the factory (ie the ecu outputs +12v to trigger it). You probably want this connected to a PWM controlled digital output on the link but these are only available as low side drive (ie they ground the output when active), so you will need to rewire that boost control solenoid so the EFI relay or another relay feeds it 12v constantly, and the ECU grounds the other side to control it. Hopefully you can figure out what these do by looking at what they are physically connected to as I cant tell from the diagram which of the 2x boost related systems is the one you wire up as boost control in the link ecu, or what TB ICV does. You may need to connect one or both of these to get the engine to work correctly but I'm not familar enough with these cars to tell you from the wiring diagram alone.

It looks like the factory wiring is for batch fired injectors. If you run new wires to injectors 3 and 4 you can run it in sequential fire, otherwise 1-12 and 1-25 will fire 2 injectors each and you will have to use batch fire mode. According to the wiring spec your TPS has an idle switch as well as a variable output. VCC (2-11) is probably 5vout so should connect to the link 5v out, and VTA (2-10 ) should be your variable TPS signal - connect to any analog input. +B and +B1 are probably permanent battery feeds but check the rest of your diagrams as it does say switched. Likely you should use pin 3-2 (BATT) as your 14v feed which states its from the EFI relay. You dont need a permanent battery feed on a link. I take it your not keeping AC? You also want to wire pin 3-4 (FC) in as your fuel pump relay, or adjust the wiring so it turns on with the key if you have no outputs. If you have free inputs also wire pin 1-2 (STA) in as a "Key in crank position" signal. Optional but probably a good idea: 3-11 (SPD) to a digital input as a speed source 3-8 (W) as an output to your dash engine check light.

Depends on your car. If your ABS outputs vehicle speed or individual wheel speed over CANBUS you could set the ECU to receive this. You would need to get hold of either the canbus specs for your car or a sniffer tool and figure out what CAN ID and data types the ABS was outputting. You can also buy or build frequency dividers using 4024 chips or the prebuilt boxes from dakota digital to take the ABS sensor pulses and drop them down to a frequency the link ECU's can read.

You can manually fire each coil using the ignition tests. No trigger signals needed, just click the one you want and listen for it clicking. Its also a good way to check you've got them wired up to the correct cylinders.

The link guys can probably confirm from the serial number which version you have, but looking at the pinouts you could check it yourself by running the ignition tests. on a gen2/3 you should hear each coil fire when you run the test for it. If you've actually got an ecu for a gen1 you wont be able to fire 3 of the 4 coils as it doesnt look like ign2-4 are connected to any pins. If you're still feeding the trigger sensors off 5v, and the only wiring you've touched is the trigger and coil pins then its possible the trigger sensors are wired wrong and are letting 5v onto what should be the signal ground wire or similar. Can you connect a laptop, turn the key to on so you can see MAP, TPS values etc, then physically unplug the connectors to both trigger sensors? if your MAP and TPS both jump to normal values once these are disconnected then the problem is in how those triggers are wired. If nothing changes then your wiring problems are elsewhere and I need to think about it some more. It seems very conincidental that you're trying to run new triggers off the 5v supply, and other things on the 5v supply are now showing bascially 5v constantly rather than their actual values. Just to be clear, you had this exact ecu, with 90% the same wiring, and a very similar config running this car previously?

There are some interesting numbers in that log. MAP is reading 280kpa - and it moves a little bit when you crank the key so it looks to be wired up to something. Throttle position = 100% the entire time Engine temp = 100deg C Have you got all these sensors wired up or just a few things to get it to crank over? Have you changed any other wiring apart from the coils and triggers since it was last running? Where i'm going with all of this: it appears that there may still be a wiring issue and some of the sensors are being fed voltage on the wrong pins causing them to report maxed out readings. If this wiring issue is also impacting the crank signal it wont work. Most of the sensors with bad readings are probably 5v though. Did you follow AdamW's suggestion to run the crank trigger off a 12v/14v line? Does anything else attach to the same 14v line, or the crank signal wire, or the ground you are using for the crank trigger? Posting a log of the trigger scope function while cranking it may help.

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/

The VVT is turning on and off repeatedly in your logs in line with the idle fluctuations so is probably at least part of the problems. I hadnt noticed your short pulse width adder table is all zero's though which is what adamw is talking about. On injectors that big Its probably contributing a fair bit to the problem as well. In fact the short pulse width adder table from ID has values up past the 0.6-0.8ms your seeing at idle, so not having that populated will be having an impact. Adding these in will only affect the idle and very light throttle parts of your tune so is a safe change to make. All you have to do is copy the info from that spreadsheet into the short pulse adder table under fuel setup > injector setup Interestingly, the values for the dead time table are not what is set in your tune. Changing these value will affect fuel quantity across your whole tune so you want to be a lot more careful changing these - less so at higher load but there is still some change everywhere. Ideally you would change your tune to use the deadtime tables provided by ID but if you're heading back to a tuner its probably worth getting them to do it and any fuel table changes to match, especially with an engine running that much boost. LC1 is your Innovate wideband O2. Does it look like its reading correct numbers on the gauge? If so, i'd guess that the signal output wire (yellow or brown wire) is not hooked up properly to the link, or is connected to the wrong input. The LC1 default calibration is for 0.5 lambda at 0V output, which is exactly what your log is showing all the time so I suspect that input is either disconnected or is grounded instead of receiving signal from the LC1 controller.

I did some more digging on this engine and its VVT and Brad is right, it looks very on/off. Looks like mechanically the timing belt only drives the intake cam, and an actuator on the timing chain tensioner for the chain between the intake and exhaust cams allows it to push the chain to take a longer path and therefore phase one of the cams by about 15 degrees relative to the other one. It appears to only have up or down positions though and not able to move to any intermediate positions. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?569755 see post #23 on this forum for a good explanation. There also seems to be an agreement that its primarily there to create overlap at low RPM to increase torque/create an EGR like system, and should be on at low RPM's and off at high RPM's or once on boost but I wouldnt take my word for this. @Jenno007 - your new log is definitely now suffering from VVT switching on and off repeatedly. It looks like the revs dont vary as much and your ignition numbers are now more stable, but there is still ~100rpm variance and at every single on of the cycles theres a cam switch event. You need to move that lower VVT switch threshold away from your idle range at least to start with. It doesnt matter if you make it 800rpm so its always on or 1800 so it doesnt kick in until you press the throttle, or disable it entirely for now, but it has to stop cycling on and off at idle range. Your throttle is lower but is still 5% ish which is probably a little high, and your MAP values are 55-65. If you've got crazy big cams this might be normal but on most stock cams this would still suggest your throttle is open too much. I suspect once you disable/move VVT you'll find your idle at 1300 or so with the settings youve got. [edit] - Also, you appear to have a narrow band O2 sensor and an LC1 configured in the ECU, but the value of both never changes so I suspect they arent wired up correctly. They arent at error value.but they never change, hence why you have no accurate lambda reading in the ecu

Seems like no-one so far is overly familiar with this motor so we cant advise you very well on when to use the VVT functions on this motor. Do you have a service manual or some sort of general description on when the factory ECU enables this and what its trying to achieve, or what it actually does to the cams/valves/etc? Even in the part of your log when your idle fluctuations only go between 800 and 1150 or so (and are below the cam switch RPM) the same fluctuations are visible, so changing the cam switch point up to 1500 will help rule it out, but I dont expect you will see much improvement in the idle from this.

As Iceman_n says, your VVT config looks a little odd considering the first couple google results suggest these engines have variable cams and not on/off. That being said, your idle fluctuations are not (entirely) caused by this. Only around 1 in 5 idle "cycles" is getting to a high enough RPM to have the cam switching kick in. The majority of your idle issues look to be related to how idle ignition timing is set up. Because your throttle opening at idle is set quite high at around 6%, the idle timing is set quite aggressively to attempt to pull your idle down to the 1100 its being asked for - ie instead of ~15deg at idle like a production car typically has, youre running about 5, and because there is so much air being allowed in by the throttle, when the idle control moves it from 5 to 7 degrees to try bring you idle up 100rpm or so, its overshooting and bumping it up by 300. Then the reverse happens, repeatedly. You also have closed loop ethrottle control enabled which i've seen cause something similar when not correctly tuned, but it looks like the throttle position barely moves anyway. To verify this is the problem, try changing closed loop idle ethrottle to open loop idle ethrottle and see if this helps. Next thing is to disable ignition idle control and check again. Expect your idle RPM to jump up quite a lot when doing this as 7% throttle at idle is quite a lot. If this stabilises the idle (but at too high a number), try lowering the numbers in your idle throttle % table until you get idle close to what you want. You may also need to lower the numbers in the top row of your ethrottle target if you get the idle numbers to 0 and its still idling too high. Once you've got the idle about where you want it in open loop, try turning on closed loop and ignition idle again. You will probably need to adjust the idle ignition numbers a bit so that the 0 error column has roughly the same number as your main ignition table at idle. This may also help your just off idle response too. At the moment its having to jump ignition angle and throttle posistion quite a lot between where it idles and where it needs to be at light throttle FYI this is mostly all in the help files under idle control. Have a read of that section.

You can build a frequency divider using a chip like this https://www.jaycar.com.au/4024-7-stage-ripple-carry-counter-divider-cmos-ic/p/ZC4024 which are available for a couple $ at most electronics shop. Depending on how you wire them they can divide square wave frequency by between 2 and 1024. Max input frequency is between 5 and 15Mhz depending on input voltage so should handle your turbo fine. You just need one of these, a pinboard to solder it to, a small (ideally waterproof) box to mount it in, a couple pullup resistors depending on your source sensor output, and a socket of some sort you can solder onto the board so you can join it into the wiring harness and have it look just like any other little black control computer. I've currently got one working to drop a high frequency 2007+ honda gearbox speedo output from 5-10KHz @100kph down to a hundred Hz or so @100kph to get it within acceptable range of a link input. You can also buy pre-built boxes that do the same thing from dakota digital and a couple other manufacturers I cant remember right now.

Thats really interesting that the factory beams tacho's are that high a resistance. The 43K on the ignitor driven tacho sounds like the same number I found, but the guys providing the details of this mod long before I did mine all talk about <10K resistors being put in place on the 43k one. I cant remember exactly what resistance I used but it was less than 20, and anecdotally quite a few other people have had it work with smaller numbers too. I'd guess we should have all used 23k resistors to match toyota spec, but its a lot of effort to swap it when its already working. Hopefully the next person who tries to do this finds your info above and tries a 23k resistor so we can be certain that there's not some other change in the beams cluster to go with this.

You dont need to add any pullups or any other new resistors. Just take out this one and replace it with a smaller one (around 1k-5k). Note that your tacho layout may be slightly different, follow the traces from the IG- input pin, its pretty obviously the first big resistor the trace hits.

Yep I think you got lucky. Coil packs means the ECU was already driving the tacho directly, just like a link or other aftermarkert ecu will do. The older Toyotas that had distributors had the tacho driven from the ignitor, and while I seem to recall its still from the IG- pin on the ignitor, its pushes way more voltage than an ECU would (either 40 or 80v from memory), so the tacho is set up to drop that voltage to something safe for its internal circuitry. We are talking about replacing the resistors that perform that voltage drop with something that drops it a whole lot less because now our source voltage is 12v instead of 80v.

No pullups or new resistors needed. You just replace a couple that are already on there with smaller ones. From memory I used a 5k ohm in place of the 43kohm one you take out. A couple of those internet threads talk about repalcing the resistor with just a wire but that feels like a bad idea. I used either a 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistor from jayar. About $2 for a pack of 5 or something. [edit] Just to be clear, you need to remove a resistor from the back of the tacho and replace it with a smaller one. Comments about "a resistor on the signal wire" actually refer to the traces on the back of the tacho between where the signal wire connects, and where it enters the processing chips of the tacho. You do no add resistors to the wire between the ecu and the dash.

Theres a realatively well known tacho mod you can do to 90's toyota tach's to change them from needing a coil level signal to just needing a "normal" signal from any aftermarket ECU. http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=89365 Read down the page about halfway. I've done it myself on an MR2 and it works perfectly. Basically these toyota tach's are internally capable of accepting a normal 12v or ground pulse that every aftermarket ecu sends out, but they put a couple massive resistors in there to dampen the signal that comes off the ignnitor down to the right level. Obviously if you feed it lower level signals it dampens them to bascially nothing. You desolder a resistor, solder in a much smaller one, and then it works perfectly. Heres another version of the same thing http://club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20847

Well your trigger scope still looks the same but you now have sensible looking RPM numbers being displayed between 24 and 32 seconds into that log where it looks like you're cranking it over.