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cj

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Everything posted by cj

  1. cj

    plip1953

    deleted from your laptop or the ECU? If its your laptop, try Recuva - its free and pretty good at getting back recently deleted files. You will need to know where you had the file saved.
  2. Your post start enrichment table is all -20's which would explain the ~5 seconds of bad fuelling as that's about how long that lasts. Someone else had exactly the same thing a couple days ago so I wonder if one of the base maps is like this, or maybe there's a bug in a firmware update somewhere. It should look more like this As for your cam problem... its still showing no signal present on RH inlet cam. You could run the same checks on another cam sensor wire that is working, make sure you see the same voltages etc, ideally one that also goes to a DI so you know the
  3. Map Sensor - this is internal to the ECU. The config will show it connected to AN V3, but physically you need to run a tee-d off boost/vacuum line to the ECU. If you want to use an external MAP sensor, change the anv3 config to none, and wire in the signal line from the external MAP sensor to any free AN channel/reuse the AFM channel like you suggested. (and obviously set this channel to MAP sensor + set the calibration) canbus can certainly be used to receive the O2 sensor signals, and this is actually preferred over an Analog input as it prevents ground offset plus it gives you access t
  4. your post start enrichment table shouldnt be negative. Yours is all -20 for some reason. Try something more like this Also, what temperature is it there? Your Air temp is showing -4C and your coolant temp shows 8C. Do these sound reasonable?
  5. You could verify the pinout by checking continuity between the crank sensor pins (unplug the crank sensor) and pin 17 & 43 or whatever it should be at the ecu connector end, and then do the same to the sensor ground & signal wires from the cam sensor (ECU unplugged as well - test at the connector). To test the 12v signal, plug in the ECU but unplug the cam sensor, then with key on, check for 12v on the pin you didnt find as cam or sensor ground. The 12v to the cam sensor may have been verified by your OEM ecu swap test, but its worth checking excplicty as some time OEMs can swap over t
  6. 1) your fuel table is all "100". It *might* start like this but its not going to run well. As a starting point, copy the fuel table from any of the base maps running modelled mode - I think the monsoon base map has one you can use to start. 2) you could drop the ignition table 1 values for 100kpa 0rpm to 5 or 10, instead of 20. It should start as is, but its easier on the starter motor if you have a very low number in the cranking ignition cell. 3) you probably need to give it some gas pedal to fire up. I dont see any idle control systems configured so it will need some throttle to s
  7. that scope shows a whole lot of nothing. Were you cranking the car already when you clicked the capture button? Adam is probably right about pinout differences but at least pin 16+17 which are trigger1 & 2 look to be the same pins, so you should see a trigger signal even if there are other issues.
  8. run a trigger scope capture while cranking it. Lets see what (if any) signal is coming in from the crank & cam sensors.
  9. the simple version of how to test this is what you are doing now - check voltage at a few points along the circuit and see when you see a significant drop. Remember to always use the same ground point because low voltage can also be caused by bad grounds. The more accurate way (that rules out ground side issues too) is to load the circuit up (remove the ECU, connect a head light bulb (so around 4-5amp load, which is safe on that circuit) between the ground and 12v ign wires, then turn on the key. Now set your meter to voltage and measure *along* the wires - eg first measurement will be ba
  10. your coolant temp sensor is still miscalibrated - unless its actually -28C where you live. It is hooked up as I can see it increases by 10-20C over the couple minutes of logging, which is normal, but its miscalibrated. What sensor are you using? This is making you add at least 75% more fuel than you are expecting. Your TPS is also miscalibrated - it shows the same value for fully open & fully closed. This cant be the case. Run the TPS caliration process under ecu controls menu. Various tables in your tune use TPS% as an input. if this is badly wrong, it will mess things up all over t
  11. thats normal. MAP = manifold ABSOLUTE pressure. so the ~100kpa / 14.5 psi of Barometric pressure is displayed as well. MGP is what you are probably use to which will be 0 at this point.
  12. can you post the config as it is now, and a log of you starting + driving it?
  13. Those are pretty normal numbers. Remember the post start enrichment only applies for 3-5 seconds before it switches over to the warm up table with typically much lower values. This means it's really only to provide a bit of extra petrol to wet the port walls etc and deal with unstable air flows from cranking. Once running for 5+ seconds this setting has no impact on anything See the "hold time table" for how long exactly this table is in effect for.
  14. You are correct, charge temp approximation does not apply in traditional model. If you watch carefully, the table/menu disappears when you swap a tune to traditional mode, and just like you say, you have to go back to using an IAT compensation table.
  15. The ignition idle table in v5 looks pretty normal. The one in v6 looks to have been forgotten then ignition idle was disabled, and then picked up junk values. I'd suggest you turn ignition idle back on and use the v5 table. However, leave throttle idle control in open loop for now, and disable closed loop lambda. Both of these can be enabled later on, but get the tune right first.
  16. I'm not convinced your idle stepper motor is resetting correctly. This will make your idle really inconsistent. You have an output configured as ECU Hold power, but the settings menu for this is not present, and the f12 status screen shows it as disabled. This, combined with your idle settings of "reset @ key off" suggests to me that the stepper reset isnt completing. Your firmware is also really old, so bumping that up will likely help as there have been a fair few idle related fixes in the last couple firmwares. I'd do this first, but read all the revision notes and back up your config
  17. The ignition timing jumps @motomattx identified are probably because your ignition idle table isnt right. The values in there are not additive, they are absolute - so if your ignition table is set to 15*, you should have the "0 error" row of ign idle table also at ~15*. you have it at 0, so its slowing down nicely, then suddenly jumps to 0 or even negative timing as soon as it hits 1700rpm. You also have the speed lockout disabled by setting it to 0kph, so it can kick in at pace whenever your rpm gets low. Looking at your log, there way also be some low load misfire/jumpy-ness at light th
  18. cj

    Reverse Lockout Solenoid

    aux out triggering based on vehicle speed is what i've done in the past. Run 1 side of the solenoid to a relay fed 12v feed, and have the aux out ground the other side to set/release the solenoid. Single condition GP output based on driven wheel speed. Note that this assumes you have the driven wheel speed inputs configured in chassis settings.
  19. Looking at the pulse widths of it running, 725cc looks like a believable number. It also seems to run ok for now so probably not worth ripping them out to check. Maybe if there are other issues later. Next thing I notice is that you are running off the bottom edge of the ignition idle map and so sitting at minus 6.5* timing at idle, and you are still 5-600 over target. You are also running quite rich at points. First thing would be to tweak the fuel cells around idle so there is not so much of a jump between them (eg aim for around 5% difference in neighboring cells as a starting poi
  20. Ethanol does need quite a bit more cold enrichment than petrol (sometimes nearly double when you are talking <5C). Looking at your log however, you have 1300cc injectors running at ~12ms, so that should be enough to start, especially for how long you are cranking it. More likely, I think its to do with your idle/throttle control. I dont see an idle valve anywhere, and your idle control is essentially not set up. You will need to give the car some throttle to get it to fire up when cold, or connect an idle valve of some sort. Can you post another log of you trying it with ~10% thr
  21. Did you also set the base fuel pressure to 300/350/whatever you are running? This will show up and default to 0 as soon as you set "Map referenced". Because it just dies its a little tricky to be certain, but it looks like it goes crazy rich (~53ms injector pulse), so I suspect one of the other fuel system parameters is wrong/missing. The fuel table1 values arent perfect but it should still start & probably idle with what you have in there. Are your injector parameters correct? 725cc @ 310kpa with the dead times & spw's as defined? can you post the current pclr and a log of i
  22. The altezzalink pinout in the help file shows inj5 & inj6 as O2 sensor heater & second o2 sensor heater if fitted to the vehicle. Pin O3 & Q11.
  23. cj

    VQ37 VVEL Control

    Couple options that spring to mind (note: I haven't actually implemented these, so no guarantees) 1) use a thunder and set it up as ethrottle#2. This can run a separate target table with any axis input you want (assumes there is a position feedback signal from the VVEL motor) [edit] - just realised the VQ37's ran dual ethrottles already so this is out. 2) A similar external circuit as that used to adapt a 3 wire idle valve to 2 wire control - this would give you the ability to command the VVEL position using a single PWM output with it being converted to push/pull before it hits the
  24. There are a handful of things fundamentally wrong with your fuel setup. I suspect your previous config leaned really heavily on accel enrichment to fix things up, but now with a "normal" enrichment that drops off after a second or 2 its exposing other issues. Quite simply, your fuelling settings are causing it to run very lean under pretty much any load over ~25% TPS. Specific issues I can see (probably not all of them): your fuel system type is configured as "no pressure correction" - ie its a fixed fuel pressure regardless of manifold pressure (aka you have no vacuum/boost ref
  25. Nope. All power feeds for the ethrottle TB come via the ECU. There are 6 pins to most eTB's: motor+, motor-, 5v ref, ground ref, and 2x tps signals for redundancy. All of those connect to the ECU directly. The ECU gets this power via the existing power feeds on most of the plug ins, and via an additional 12v input on the standalones, but from the cars perspective, it's just supplying more power to the ECU somehow
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