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Everything posted by cj

  1. Nothing too helpful in the log. I can see Inlet RH is reporting "no signal", and VVT control status for this cam is "OFF, CAM Signal error". Looking at your old map this was DI2. All system voltages etc look ok so I can only assume its a wiring issue to this cam sensor. Was the cam test running during this log? you dont command any VVT movement on any cam.
  2. 2x biggest things are 1) your coolant temp sensor thinks its -25C. Your intake temp sensor says ~+25C. I'm guessing your ECT is calibrated wrong, and this will make the fuelling very far off target - probably creating the poor idle you talk about 2) your log doesnt show any RPM signal. What was happening at the time you recorded the log? you need to start logging, then crank + start the car, fight with it, let it idle, etc, let it stall, then stop logging, then save the log. This will be much more use to us to help you.
  3. cj


    according to an autozone parts+vehicle fitment page I found, the petrol & diesel models of the same year use the same pedals
  4. cj


    Going by this site I found on google it looks like 6 pins in a row? https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/2006-apps-code-p2127-need-wiring-info.246257/ 1 5v supply sensor2 2 sensor2 signal 3 ground sensor2 4 ground sensor 1 5 signal sensor 1 6 5 supply sensor 1 because its symmetrical, if you have it wired backwards all that will happen is main & sub are backwards which is an easy fix in the ECU.
  5. Low side drive vs high side drive determines whether the ECU sends ground or 12v when the output is commanded on. When an output is off, think of it like a 6v output - half way between/floating/no specific voltage. Its not technically outputting 6v but it helps to imagine it this way. Low side driven outputs "send" ground when switched on, and float/send nothing when off. High side driven outputs send 12v(aka 14v) when switched on, and float/send nothing when off. The other setting you will see on some functions is Polarity, which is separate but related to high vs low side driv
  6. The COR is best thought of as a traditional fuel pump relay - ECU grounds pin 4 and the pump turns on. No ground here, no fuel pump. The dual position relay marked FPR is a high/low switch for the fuel pump [if its enabled at all by the COR]. on 1x path it runs via a big resistor so the pump sees less voltage. Given you have probably completely rebuilt the fuel lines anyway to run the bigger engine, i'd ditch the FPR relay & wiring and run the COR as simple on/off fuel pump control. Exactly how you do this is up to you but on factory wiring i'd just join the 2x wires going into the bi
  7. Can you post the config file you are currently using, and a log of its starting+idling? It will be a lot easier to help with all the info available. If you think the idle valve control is having no effect, try removing the idle valve from the car, but leaving it plugged in, then try making the valve move via the ecu config. You should see it open & close Did you follow this process to wire up the solenoid? If you have it backwards it will not function correctly.
  8. So basic engine/idle theory... **assuming your trigger1 offset is correct** engine power output is from compressing & igniting fuel + air. The more fuel + air you have in the cylinder, the more potential power. The ignition angle (ie "when" you ignite the mixture in the 360* cycle) determines how much of that potential power is actually created. In 95%+ of petrol/ethanol engines, you "control" the air intake, and the computer/carb adds an appropriate amount of fuel to match. To have a stable idle, the engine output power (torque) must equal the amount required to keep the engine
  9. Cam angle test is under VVT control > VVT Setup > Cam Angle Test. Set this to each cam, 1 at a time, set the number of pulses (which will show up when you pick a test cam) to what you think you have (doesnt matter if you are wrong), run the engine at idle and press f12. Scroll the f12 window to the right with the green arrows until you find VVT. in the middle is a table of Cam angle pulse positions. These should be pretty much stable, and the smallest value is what you should have for that cam's offset. If the numbers are jumping around everywhere then you have the pulse count
  10. As I understand the variocam on these engines is just on/off intake cam phasing by a fixed amount? In this case, its only the intake valve opening & closing angles that are advanced relative to everything else in the engine. Your spark timing is not affected by this. Assuming the engine is all stock, there will be mechanical stops to prevent over advance to the point where you get piston-> valve clearance issues. At which point the only place you need to consider this from a tuning persepctive, is that the fuel cells between 1300rpm & 5200rpm will need to be a bit richer becaus
  11. your ignition table itself looks like a good starting point the trigger1 offset you have to find yourself with a timing light as suggested by Adam. It can be different on each engine so we cant tell you exactly what number to use. remember to press enter after typing in an offset to get it to stick. As for your idle issue, maybe fuelling? Can you post a log of it happening please? Also disable launch control, its set to "on with DI4/clutch switch" so may be on accidentally which will pull 10deg of timing and other things unhelpful to idle. Unlikely to be your idle problem but I
  12. Do you mean that with the dash unplugged, you dont get a speed reading at all on whatever DI is configured as vehicle speed, or do you mean that the MXS dash doesnt show vehicle speed? On those late 90's civics the VSS is wired straight to the ECU (and tee'd to the dash) so the ECU should still see DI frequency input with the dash disconnected. Normally the ECU would be providing the pullup voltage but maybe its coming from the dash in your case - have you got pullup set to on for the speed input DI?
  13. have you calibrated trigger1 with a timing light? 35ms master value is really high on pretty much any injectors unless the fuel table numbers are all single digits.
  14. So the point in your log where idle is stable shows ~5 deg of timing. technically you could just set everything in the ign1 table below ~1500rpm to 5deg and it should stablise. This is quite a low number though so I suggest you set everything below 1500rpm to say 10 or 15 deg as suggested by JMP, but it must be all the same number in the cells near idle (for now). Once idle is stable, even if its too high, you can proceed. Next thing is drop the values in the base idle table a few points until you get the idle rpm you want. Once you have it mostly stable, turn on ignition idle control, w
  15. cj

    e throttle idle issue

    Pretty much what Brad said. You ethrottle target table + your base idle table is way too high, and you are leaning on closed loop corrections massively. Warm idle on your car is apparently around 3.5% throttle opening. Your target table is 5 + your base idle table is another 3. Your target table should probably be all 0 in that top line (except at <500rpm-ish if you want some anti-stall behaviour), then your base idle table numbers will be pretty close to where you want to be. Have a look at the warmup cells on your log for an idea of what you should set the base idle table to be
  16. If you are only looking for relative changes in MAF, I'd assume it doesnt matter if the MAF is pretty incorrect or calibrated incorrectly (in absolute terms). In this case, just stick any old MAF that fits in the side of the intake pipe. The fact that its potentially only metering say ~25% of the air because its not in the middle of the flow wont matter because you can still see "better" or "worse" for the purposes of VVT tuning.
  17. Also check that pin "MES" (on the fury pinout) is has continuity between the ECU connector and pin 5 on the 4.9 connector.
  18. Your lambda sensor is showing an error of "open circuit compensation resistor" This is the 6th pin that looks to go no-where and as far as I know run from this pin through a resistor in the plug to the ground wire. Have you done any wiring extensions or re-pinning of connectors towards the lambda sensor? Check power and ground to the lambda sensor by connecting them to a headlight bulb instead of the real sensor. Couple other things I noticed that wont impact WB but are worth looking at 1) your cams sensors are all reporting errors that increase with run time - and your VVT offs
  19. can you post the PCLR file you got it running with please? your fuel table seems to have changed quite a lot - the first map showed ~45 in the cell where its idling, but the new log says its using a fuel table value of ~90. If you are still in traditional mode you need to drop the value in the fuel table by quite a lot or you will max out the fuel table under power (max value is 150). Lets say you halve every value in the fuel table, then you need to take on Adam's point above about the master value doubling. Traditional mode fuel equation is (simplified) injector ms = master fuel value x
  20. Yes it would but i'm not familiar enough with the 2JZ throttle wiring to tell you which value is correct. If you have it wrong/off I think you can only get the TPS to move to 40 or 50%. Set throttle control to "always run" then press the pedal & watch the throttle blade, does it move all the way open and closed?
  21. Ah, looking at your tune again, both the TP & AP sub sensors max out at about 65% and are configured this way in the calibration, so those readings are in fact normal on your car. In traditional fuel tune (which you have configured) you dont specify the injector size directly, just an arbitrary number of milliseconds as a reference point for all other fuel calculations. In your case this is currently 16ms, and should probably be dropped to 8, then adjust as needed as it warms up to get warm idle at correct lambda. Then work on the rest of your fuel table. There is a guide on this in
  22. Normally the answer for more idle is more idle throttle opening. The table is based on engine temp already and looks normal, so something else is wrong here if you only see 500rpm. Your ignition table is very conservative - espeically at low load/idle. Try adding 10 to each of the idle range cells (500-1500rpm, <80kpa) which should make it idle a bit higher too, and you can likely add 10 to everything in the red shaded area below. Just leave the 0 row 80&100 kpa cells at lower values like you have to make starting easier.
  23. What size injectors are you running and what fuel? Its pushing 17ms of fuel at 3-400 rpm so I suspect its running very rich unless they are very small injectors or methanol. There is something still badly wrong with your ethrottle. In the log, TP Main & Sub do not follow each other (sometimes they are both 100%, sometimes TP main is only 70-80% while sub is at 100%). I see the same pattern with your AP main & sub. Can you check that you have mixed up the pin assignments - ie that both sensors on the pedal are wired to AP main & sub - and NOT something like both AP sensors runn
  24. can you post a log of it trying to start please? Need that to give you the "right" answer. Things that might be a problem just from the tune file 1) you trigger 1 offset is not anywhere near the expected 1jz or 2jz angles, have you checked it with a timing light? 2) your ethrottle target table is all zero's. its also got a axis of MAP rather than AP%. It *might* start but it wont run well like this. 3) your inlet air temp is showing an error value - maybe its wired wrong? 4) your tp main & tp sub are about 3% apart. have you calibrated this?
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