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cj

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Everything posted by cj

  1. There is something wrong with your charging circuit as well. It sits at the same ~12.6v at 2500rpm as it does at 0rpm.
  2. Try setting divider to 1000 on the can stream setup for "lambda 1". The spartan adv3 manual says this value is sent as lambda x 1000 on the wire. The current lambda value is clearly wrong - it only ever changes during initialisation, so looks like it might be reading a status field not a lambda value. Are you certain the controller is sending in default mode?
  3. You will have quite a few problems. Can you describe why you have to run at 22V? Is this the battery/cranking/alternator voltage? The ECU itself is generally set to shut down above 18 for protection reasons. I'm not sure how high you can push it before you break something however. Your injector dead times are likely not rated at 22+V. Most dead time tables top out about 16-18V Your coil dwell times are also not likely published at 22+V, again most manufacturers only provide numbers up to 16-18V. Is this a 24v vehicle? can you split the system so you only power the ECU &
  4. result number 1 in google search for 350z pedal pinout looks good https://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/09/24/test-vq35-accelerator-pedal/
  5. This can also happen if the grounding to the engine isnt quite up to size. Remember that in most setups the ECU grounds to the engine block or intake manifold. If there is an undersized or corroded ground anywhere between this contact point and battery negative it can cause the voltage at the ECU to drop even if the supply side is good.
  6. Narrowband lambda sensors are borderline useless for tuning - they just show rich or lean, but not a usable number. Interestingly yours reads lean for that entire log which is possible given you dont see any boost, but its a bit unlikely. A wideband sensor would make any tuning (outside of a dyno with its own sensors) a lot easier. What fuel pressure was this tuned at? The dead times used are for 45psi, and you are running very small pulse widths so this will have a big impact on low throttle/idle performance. You also dont have any short pulse adders configured, which will also really h
  7. As a starting point set a speed threshold on your idle ignition timing (maybe around 10kph). Also drop the rpm threshold for this to somewhere around 1500. Whats happening right now is that as soon as you get off the gas pedal ignition idle turns on and immediately pulls all your ignition timing. There are probably a bunch more contributing factors I havent had time to check yet. Do you have a lambda sensor installed? its showing 0 the whole log. Also, can you please include injector effective pulse width as a logged parameter & fuel table 1 value? Or better yet set it to log all v
  8. 4.9 - no. 4.2's did need this though.
  9. if you tune it in modelled first, then change the injectors, as long as you update the tune with the new injector parameters it should still run moderately well. It wont be perfect so probably not worth getting it perfect on the smaller injectors though.
  10. This sounds really similar to a known bug that I thought was fixed in the latest firmware. What firmware are you running?
  11. Heres one from a k20z4 as a close starting point. You will have to change engine size up to 2400, injector size & dead times to whatever you are using (this car used evo10 injectors), and trigger1 mode from K20 to K24. You may also need to change trigger 1 edge from rising to falling. If you dont have a fuel pressure sensor (factory ones dont), then you will need to change the MAP reference in injector config away from FP sensor as well. Also the input & outputs will likely be wrong for your car. depends how much work you've done already if you start from this or just compare it t
  12. what if you set DI1 to "frequency". do you get anything? You say your wiring has the power & earth the other way around... is this a factory wiring harness? If you've built it, maybe those 2 wires are backwards? That page, the 97 supra service manual i've got, and the wiring diagram in the same manual all show pin 1 (far end from the notch) as 12v and center as earth.
  13. cj

    Engine start fan control

    have you configure the output as GP out or engine fan? If its GP out just set a condition for RPM > 500 or something. If its engine fan, it should be temp controlled, at which point, whats the chance that your coolant temp is 95-100 or whatever the switchon temp will be, when the engine is either cold or freshly stalled after running?
  14. have you set the output to polarity Low? Also how are you testing the ECU output? if the rest of the circuit is wired up you will see 12v on the output wiring because the voltage is passing through the relay to the ECU. Measuring anywhere along the live circuit will show 12v, you need to measure the ECU output at pin 86 with the relay removed.
  15. Have look at the pinout info here https://www.shoarmateam.nl/content/toyota-speed-sensor/ note the little tab on the bottom next to 1 of the pins, this shoudl help determine if pin1 is left/right of the sensor or the plug. One the ECU you want that signal wire to come into a DI, and I think you want pullup resistor off (assuming you are not running it to dash). The other possibilty here is that the wires at the speed sensor do go to the dash, and somethign isnt wired up here, and because of this the speedo out (to ecu) will also not work, and this maybe what you are
  16. I finally had some time to check this on a live car. The frequency number jumped around a bit on the meter but seemed to be mostly ~ 125Hz. At low-ish speed it was around 85% DC.
  17. Looks like its going very lean when you press the accelerator pedal. There also appears to be a bit of a delay from when you do anything to when it shows in the lambda reading which will confuse things a bit. try setting more accel enrichment and/or setting it to decay slower.
  18. have a look on mouser or digikey for honeywell PX2 or PX3 sensors. They come in various fittings including 1/8-27npt and pressure ranges up to 10bar. One of them is brass body and the other stainless but are otherwise very similar. Try to get the ones with Nitrile o-rings in them. Nitrile handles contact with fuel better. The spec sheet for these tells you which letter of the product code identifies the o-ring type. Dont buy the chinese copies of these from aliexpress/ebay/etc. Even if they are accurate on day 1, they very quickly (a few weeks) become bascially random number generators.
  19. or you could wire in an external pump controller which is PWM capable. There is a ford unit that is used in a lot of 2000's era jagaurs, fords, etc and is very similar to the controller sold by nzefi. Similar era subaru's with ez30's and I think a bunch of the later turbo models also had similar controllers. Most of these should be available in a junkyard for cheap. They typically take 12v, ground, and PWM inputs, then the PWM control the fuel pump on the 2x output wires.
  20. is that diagram from an 80 or a 100? and are those pins on the speed sensor, the ecu, or the dash? typically you can wire it up the other way around without much issue on the toyotas as the dash is expecting a square wave/pwm - so you wire the speed sensor up to the ECU on a DI, then pass it through to a PWM aux out and connect this to the dash "speed input" pin. This also allows you to do speedo corrections for wheel size etc
  21. In factory wiring the ECU doesnt control the dash temperature gauge. Thats fed by a second completely separate sensor on the engine. The ECU temp sensor is 2 wire, the dash sensor is 1 wire. Your speed sensor should be 1x wire to 12v, 1x wire to earth, and the third wire to a DI on the ECU (ie the signal wire) [edit] in factory wiring the VSS signal wire actually goes to the dash, and then there is a different output wire from the dash which you would run to a DI on the ECU. I cant tell if you are asking about the dash-> ECU wiring or are looking at the VSS directly.
  22. Assuming your oil is in good condition, you have PID overshoot & need to adjust the PID parameters. switch PID setup to custom, & Either drop P by 1, i by 0.01 or 0.02, or increase D by 1-2. Make these changes 1 at a time then re-test. Dont make big jumps or wild guesses with this stuff.
  23. cj

    RPM shoot up

    Do you have a log of this happening, or any afr/boost/temp gauges so you can tell us if any engine parameters look wrong at the same time? easy places to start are 1) is your throttle blade or throttle cable stuck? 2) is your idle air valve stuck open? might be a little more work 3) is your wastegate jammed? 4) spray brake cleaner/starting fluid at the *outside* of the intake manifold near any joints (to the engine, brake booster hose, etc) and see if the rpm changes - might be an intake leak.
  24. Hi Simon, I didnt see your pclr file when I posted that info. After having a second look with the pclr loaded as well I can see what you mean about the fuel pressure. The pressure itself isnt technically a problem as 3.5bar is a pretty normal pressure level, however the flow rate, deadtimes and short pulse width tables are taken from the 3bar table in the ID1700 data instead of 3.5bar. The fuel flow number is probably the only one having a real impact here. Unfortunately you cant really change either these parameters or the fuel pressure without re-checking the entire fuel tune. Changing
  25. From the log this tune actually looks pretty reasonable to me. Cold start is rich between 15 & 25c ECT but its pretty good above this. Once its up to temperature it looks to idle exactly at lambda target which is pretty good for the ~1500cc injectors it looks like you are running. The lambda numbers at cruise also look very close to target. What exact time in the log are you concerned about? It does look like your knock sensor is misconfigured. It shows max noise level as soon as the engine is powered on, and as soon as you get above the knock cutout thresholds, it pulls 3* of t
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