cj

If your logs, do you see RPM while its cranking? could be trigger issues. Does it run fine the rest of the time?

Heres one I wrote a few months ago for someone else asking a similar thing. Make yourself familiar with the "ethrottle target" & "TPS main" values in the logs, and then look at the below PID tuning to get TPS to track the target more closely. Well tuned ethrottle responds about as quick as cable so you can definitely get there with some tweaks.

so now it starts and drives. Do you have the skills and equipment to tune it? if not, now you take it to a tuner. If you hook up the lambda input to the ECU and you are careful & methodical you can probably tune the fuelling side of it on the street. You will need to get reasonably familar with how the fuelling tables work though (read the help file or look at some of the HPAcademy courses).

Just change it to 7 and see what happens. There is an explanation on the fuelling calculations in the help file. Short version, that 7ms means that if you had 100 in a fuel table cell at 100kpa, you would get 7ms. if you changed the table value to 50 you would get 3.5ms (50% x 100%(kpa) x 7ms). If you had a fuel table cell at 50kpa with a 100 value you would also get 3.5ms. And at 50kpa and a fuel table value of 50 you would get ~1.7ms (0.5 * 0.5 * 7ms) [edit] if you have a lambda gauge, what value is on it when its struggling to idle like that? is it something like 10:0 (0.65 ish lambda)?

According to the rx8 manual, the criteria & wiring for that code are independent of the ECU It also says you should have 15 Ohms from a-b and b-c terminals of the torque sensor. Maybe its got a bad connection somewhere and it comes right once there is a bit of heat around?

What you are looking for is "overrun fuel cut" in the fuel menu. It would be slightly weird for it to only cut in below 2500rpm though. Can you please post your log & map? Best bet you have one of the idle control systems kicking in at 2500 and its trying to drag rpm down to idle level very quickly.

Do you have DCCD in the new gearbox + a control unit for it in the car? As @wastegate said there is no 5v pwm output from the ABS computer in this model, neither is there a canbus output like in the newer ones. Your options as I see them are: 1) swap the ABS controller for a newer model with canbus output, or maybe an early 2000's legacy which I think has a speedo out signal wire. You will need to do a lot of research before doing this, and if you have DCCD, it expects to see passthrough of the ABS wheel sensor signals into the DCCD. Finding an abs computer that has DCCD outputs and doesnt require some other canbus input to keep it happy would be possible but quite tricky. 2) install a speed sensor in the gearbox as suggested above. There are a few posts on NASIOC and other forums on how to do this as it was kind of popular a while back to get 6speeds into pre-canbus cars. It requires drilling and tapping holes into the gearbox, and I think it requires a tone ring to be installed onto one of the shafts in the gearbox. Its not a simple tasks and requires removing the gearbox. 3) get one of the frequency reducing boxes out there (various posts on here to build them for <$20 or dakota digital & a few other places sell ready to go models), tee into the ABS->DCCD wiring for 1 or more of the wheel speed sensors, and make sure you leave the original wiring in place so DCCD still works. Run this tee'd signal into the frequnecy reduction box and output into a DI on the ECU. This gives you speed in the ECU. Then configure one of the aux outputs 1-4 as speedo out (set source to the DI you are receiving it on). connect this to the dash input that used to come from the gearbox so your dash has working speedo. (make sure you disconnect the old dash output->ecu input wire at the ecu)

1 wire to a sensor ground, the other to an AN Temp input then set up a calibration from that table they have provided.

can you post you map & a log file of it trying to idle? If you disconnected the idle control valve and its still fluctuating there are still half a dozen things in the config that could be causing it do this.

just upload it to dropbox/onedrive/etc and send us the link

Do you have a lambda sensor hooked up? As Adam mentioned, your injector pulse width is quite high for 1050x's on a 1.8 engine. I suspect its running rather rich and so you are having to feed it ~10% throttle to stay at idle. A lambda reading would confirm this. If you dont have one, just try dropping your master fuel by about 25% and see if everything improves. I suspect the "right" number is actually about 50% of your current value, but do 25% first and see if its heading in the right direction.

Thats a very short log so we may not have the whole picture, but it is not showing any rpm value, suggesting your trigger 1 or 2 is not working correctly. If it smells of fuel at this point, check for leaks as the pump is likely running but the injectors are not firing so you should not really smell fuel. Look at your trigger 1 & 2 configs and follow the set up process for the nissan opto 360 trigger in the help file. You will need a timing light to complete this. You should see ~200rpm while cranking, and until you get this, spark/fuel/etc will not fire as they have no idea where the engine is in its rotation.

you dont have to drive it while running a trigger scope. just hold rpm at the number you want while the car is in neutral. I'm assuming that capture was at idle? those little bumps look to align with the teeth on the primary trigger so are probably the "other" trigger wheel teeth going too close to the trigger2 pickup. They dont really matter as long as they are less than the arming threshold. At the RPM you have captured they are fine, but if they get up to near 3.5v higher in the rpm then they might mess up your triggering. Hold rpm at 6 or 7k (while standing still in neutral) and run the capture again.

Get the engine running, connect pclink, the click ECU Control -> Trigger scope. It will save a log file with only 2x values - the trigger 1 & 2 voltages as the ECU sees them. Either noise in this signal, or the wires being "backwards" at the sensor itself can cause triggering issues

Between 1:45 & 1:50 in that log the dwell time jumps repeatedly from ~3.3ms to ~1.3ms. This combined with the slightly fuzzy rpm line _might_ means trigger issues. Your trigger error counter doesnt increase, but it would be worth taking a trigger scope capture at about 2700-3k rpm to have a look. Your AFR's look fine in that log. You will likely never get it to hit AFR target immediately on changing throttle position because of accel enrichment, and the fact that CL lambda is a reactive thing. It looks to hit target within about 1/2 a second when you hold the throttle though which is pretty normal. At about 2:00 there is a 5 second block where you press the gas pedal repeatedly to ~90%, but your throttle target never gets over 50%. This may be intentional in your ethrottle target table, but it does make me wonder if there is something wrong there. The other thing I notice is around your boost control at 2:50 -2:55 & 3:00 -3:05. your boost pressure jumps up & down and it looks like your wastegate duty cycle jumps from 0 to 55% and back repeatedly. I'd guess you have open loop boost control set up and a pretty big jump from 0 to 55% at about 135-140kpa?

can you grab a trigger scope at idle & at ~6-7k rpm. If your VR sensors are wired backwards it can cause high rpm trigger issues but work just fine at lower rpm. You also have trigger priority set to trigger2, normally this would be trigger 1. Not sure if its relevant yet, but it looks like it starts getting noisy signal at the point vtec is enabled @ 5800. May just be a conincidence, but if looking at trigger settings gets you nowhere, move vtec up or down 1k rpm & see if the problem follows it.

First thing, your fuel pressure is going to be gauge pressure not absolute - so your 0.5 & 4.5v values should be 0 & 1035kpa, not +100 like you currently have, but this isn't your problem. Can you change anV8 to "voltage 0-5V" and check what it shows as the input voltage? Something isnt adding up here... To get a reading of 1470kpa you would need an input voltage of ~5.8v, but you have "error high" set as 4.95v so ~5.8v would show as an error value. Your last run stats on that pclr file confirm that it is indeed showing 1470kpa on anv8, but also that it considers that input to be within normal range. Assuming the voltage input is 1.75-2v as expected, try using a different cal table (7-10) and see if its a bug.

isn't SI drive just a throttle mapping thing on the manuals? you can already set 2x throttle maps in the Link ECU regardless of what the ABS computer has to say about it. Assuming you wanted to use the factory dial to select them, you just need to figure out where that wiring actually goes. Specifically, you need to figure out which of the Body unit -> ECU flags tell the ECU to Set a specific map. I can tell you already that the SI drive switch is physically wired back to the gauge cluster, and the only canbus output from the gauge cluster is on low speed CAN to the Body control module. We can therefore conclude that the dash must send a CAN message to the BCM, and the BCM must send on a different can message on high speed can to the ECM. In my tests body unit was ID 514, so i'd just capture a few seconds of you changing the si drive mode and check what flags are set/changed on this ID. Remember the link only has 2 modes so you probbaly dont need to worry about the limits on allowing sport#, just get the flags for default & sport, and set the link up so that if it receives the default flag (map that id/byte to receive || can-DI#1, then set a virtual AUX out with condition of X value), then switch to ethrottle map #2 when virtual aux1 is active. None of this will fix your abs light however as it doesnt touch it, and you are right, figuring out why its unhappy is the first step. maybe you can read errors/parameters from freeSSM or jumper a test connector etc and see what errors ABS is throwing, and this might help you figure it out.

https://web.archive.org/web/20151220002254/https://subdiesel.wordpress.com/ecu-analysis/can-messages/ still there on web archive. looks like 0x410 on byte 4 according to that blog. Looking at the notes i've got from my testing, 410-4, 411-3, 412-0, and 412-5 all produced something that looked approximately like an APS signal. If you overlay all 4 of these on a single graph you notice that 412-5 bottoms out at about 23 (out of 255), so I assume this is either TPS pos or TPS request. Also, 411-3 maxes out at 235 rather than going all the way to 255, so again, I assume this is not APS, but is something around torque/tps request as its clearly not actual APS, that I know went all the way to 100%. that leaves 410-4 & 412-0 as possibilities. I decided that APS % was most likely 412-0 in my case (2005 legacy) because it was the only one that seemed to follow my attempt at a linear pedal press. The others all had a slow ramp up, which matches the response i'd noramlly feel. Have a look at bit of software called freeSSM (that I didnt know about back when I first did this) that will show you the parameters as the ECU sees them (its a reverse engineered version of subaru select monitor). With this info as well you may be able to correlate the can info better to internal ecu parameters

That trigger 2 trace does not look like a hall effect signal. The crank signal looks like hall. Are you 100% sure you have hall effect sensors (3 wire) on both cam & crank? Best guess from that trigger scope is you have a VR cam sensor installed but configured in the ECU as a hall effect sensor. You wont be able to run it with the current sensor as cam level because the cam signal never stays high. you *might* be able to get it to run as cam pulse x1 with the right voltage thresholds set but it seems like the "good" option is to find the right cam sensor to match the cam you have in there (looks like a single tooth 180* cam-level cam trigger). swapping sensors etc might get interesting for your piggy back config though depending on what the factory ECU is still doing (ie is it sending RPM to the dash?) Can you post your config? I want to check the settings you have for trigger2.

that link looks chinese. I've never used chinese map sensors, but I have tried to use chinese fuel pressure sensors a few times and seen badly inconsistent results. I'd suggest pulling a genuine GM part off a junkyard car if you want to do it on the cheap. That amazon listing has a list of all the cars you should go looking for. [edit] you could also dig up the service manual for any of the cars this came from or the GM part number info for the compatible products listed, and see if you can find a voltage->pressure calibration graph. Enter this manually into the link ECU. if your pressure with engine off is not really close to BAP, then the part in front of you does not follow the GM calibration and you should not use it unless you can find a known good calibration from the vendor (or you have a good vacuum/pressure gauge to test it yourself). I would not reccomend just trying random calibration options until atmospheric pressue matches. You would have no idea if the rest of the calibration slope matches the sensor in front of you - only the 1x point at atmospheric pressure.

As long as you have a calibration for the new sensor, and the old one was also calibrated correctly, you will not need a re-tune. Be sure to run the Calibrate MAP-BAP process once you have slected the new calibration/sensor type in the settings.

grab a trigger scope while cranking. Lets see if its seeing a good crank signal

it seems like you are relying pretty heavily on ignition idle control to keep idle RPM at cold temps. try dropping the ignition 1 table value for the 20 kpa row from 1500 up to ~3k rpm by 10 points - ie keep it below 20*. You'll only hit this on overrun & at idle anyway so it should just mean a bit more engine braking if you notice it at all while driving. It might be worth running the open loop idle tuning process to set your base idle numbers a bit closer to "correct" then switch back to closed loop. You havent logged closed loop correction percentages but your idle actual % is quite a lot different from your target table, and I dont see that many fixed corrections that would account for it, so its likely closed loop correction. All of that being said, it looks like either your throttle is a bit gummed up at cold temps or your idle valve sticks. The MAP value drops away real slowly after startup, and comparing 0:08-0:09 (where it drops rpm happily) vs a few seconds earlier, the MAP value can clearly hit 10kpa when the engine "wants" to drop rpm, but at what it says are the same idle, TPS, and ignition angle, its only showing 25-30kpa, suggesting air is getting in somewhere. Try re-running your TPS calibration once the engine is hot too. You havent logged enough parameters to be sure, but for the sticking throttle theory to be correct, you would have had to run the calibration when it was cold/sticking so it reads "0%" when its actually 1% or below - ie your tps% doesnt reflect the real throttle opening. the reason it bounces around like that at 3k is because fuel cut is coming in and out because you are so far above idle that it thinks you are in overrun / rolling to a stop so it cuts fuel completely. your lamba sensor goes full lean for about 10 seconds right after startup too. I assume this is just something the controller does when starting itself up but it could be worth looking into as well as its not lining up with the fuel inputs at the time so I dont think its a real value.

Hold step applies in the scenario where you are driving at above idle rpm (say 4k), then you put in the clutch and get off the gas - lets say you want to roll to a stop. As your revs drop, you want it to initally hold a few hundred RPM higher than idle so that it doesnt shoot staright past idle rpm and stall. Hold step is the amount of "extra" idle valve %/steps that is initally applied to catch the dropping revs, above what your idle table would normally command. EG your idle is normally 800rpm @ 50% idle control opening. hold step is 5%. when you get off the gas from high rpm, the idle valve will sit at 55% open, which means your rpm might be say 1000 for a couple seconds then it will drop gradually down to its normal 800 (50% valve opening) over a second or 2 - exact speed depends on various idle response parameters. Startup table is added to your base table to decide the amount of idle valve opening during startup and the first 3 seconds after startup (ie it fades out to normal idle numbers during those 3 seconds)