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cj

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  1. Like
    cj got a reaction from sama in G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP   
    sounds like progress. Next thing then is to figure out what FP control settings will make it behave properly. 
    Try changing the polarity of aux2 to high and see if the problem get better/worse. 
    can you hear the fuel pump at idle? Maybe have someone put their head in the boot and check? I'd be tempted to disconnect aux 2 from the ecu temporarily (cut the wire, un-pin it from a connector anywhere between ECU and FP controller), then at idle (so pump is running), connect it to ground, then floating, then 12v and see which connection makes the pumps jump up into high flow mode. From there you can work out what to configure in the ECU, or if you need to add a relay to deliver the right voltage.
  2. Like
    cj got a reaction from sama in G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP   
    In simple terms, the FP control system is set up so that the ECU tells a separate fuel pump controller whether to run the pumps fast or slow. It does this by sending a voltage (or ground) signal down the aux2 pin when certain cirteria are met.
    Relevant parameters to your situation are:
    RPM threshold: the RPM at which point the signal is sent down this wire to the FP controller
    DC%: injector duty percentage - works as an OR operation with RPM. If you go over this injector duty cycle or this RPM then the control voltage is sent to the controller
    polarity: whether the "switch to high mode" signal is to send ground or to send "nothing" (ie the "go slower" command is to send ground).
    The expected state of the FP controller are:
    off (when the fuel relay is turned off - not relevant here)
    slow: some pwm'd low output mode
    fast full flow rate.
     
    What i've been trying to explain is that you need to identify how the voltages on that FP controller input (aux 2 output) affect what the controller does with the pump speeds. It sounds like the "dont do anything" signal from the ECU as it stands is "fast mode". This will work fine if you just set both thresholds to really high numbers (10k rpm & 99%DC), but this means you dont have a "slow mode" option for low load times. It just means your pump is noisy-er and wears quicker. If you want to reconfigure this to the point where idle-ish loads swap to low flow mode, you would first need to identify what the signal is that makes it swap to high flow mode, then configure the ECU output to provide that signal. Note that some outputs can send 12v or ground, and some can only send ground or nothing.
     
  3. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from JohnB in Injector impedance setting   
    most link's dont have the option to change it as the only support saturated (high impedance) mode. If it exists in your ecu it is under fuel > injector setup. 
    Because you have been running with a ballast resistor in place, the ECU has always been running in high impedance mode so there is nothing you need to change. Low impedance injectors + resistor ~= high impedance injectors. It sound like you already know this, but you need to remove the ballast resistor & bridge the wires that used to go to it, otherwise you have no power to your injectors.
    Just change the injector dead times, flow rate etc and you should be good to go. You will likely need to re-tune some of your fuel table after this.
  4. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from cj.surr in Possible bug in Thermistor Calc?   
    @Adamw beat me to it while I was busy drawing graphs and eating dinner, but my graphs have more lines on them so i'm going to post it anyway
    Neither number is probably right because of the interpolation issues. The real number at the point you mention is probably around 105F. Red lines show approx actual sensor response. Green are the values I calculated that you would have seen at the time the screenshots were taken. Yellow lines show the approx value if the sensor calibration had been more complete, vs where it crosses the white line of the calibration as entered. 

  5. Like
    cj got a reaction from sama in G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP   
    I think its something to do with your fuel pump control causing the pump to shut off or go into low output mode. The bit where your foot is flat, but your RPM is dropping is the key point for me. 
    Can you get your wideband running so we can see if its going rich/lean while the revs drop at full throttle? Alternately, get a fuel pressure gauge/sensor installed?
    Maybe try setting the fuel control cutover to something like 4k & 50% DC as a test, and if that makes no difference, try disconnecting pin aux2 from the ECU and applying straight 12v to it (which should force the pump to high throughput mode)
  6. Like
    cj got a reaction from sama in G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP   
    lambda going lean would line up with fuel delivery problems.
    Because you have it working with a factory ECU we can likely rule out mechanical issues - blocked air or fuel filter, faulty fuel pump, bad regulator, etc. Based on this, this only this I can see in the config that would impact fuel pressure is if the fuel pump isnt being controlled properly by the link ECU. I'm assuming all the pinouts etc are correct, which just leaves the fuel pump control being wrong - maybe its not sending the right signal to run the pump at full power, maybe the PWM signal needs to go to 12v instead of ground or vice versa. Looking at the wiring diagram, these dont run a simple on/off relay, but a separate fuel pump controller, and there is a pin that is PWM'd to tell the fuel pump controller how hard to drive the pump.
    My money is on the config for this pwm signal being wrong (or maybe on the wrong pin, so it stays on low power at all times) - hence my suggestion that if you dont see any improvement from ecu config changes, put ground or 12v straight to the controller so it runs full power, then you know what the voltage needs to be and can work backwards from there to make it happen.
  7. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from cj.surr in Cam Position Parameter Lag   
    It doesnt do this. If you have configured spark as "direct", its always direct.
  8. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from WANG Computers in Please look at this log & tune file & tell me what you think   
    bit of a caveat - we can only see what is *configured* in the ECU. If something is wired up but the input is configured as disabled, we wont see it in your log or config.
    The only inputs you have configured are coolant & intake temp, MAP, 4x inputs from pedal and throttle position, and 2x lambda sensors, neither of which gives a useful reading, then wheel speed, brake & clutch switches, AC state, and ethanol % & temp as Digital inputs.  I don't think its the case, but you may also be getting some info in via CAN with the pre-defined audiTT can config you have set up. You don't have any multi-fuel setup so even though the ECU knows you have ~80% ethanol, it does not apply any corrections because of this value - if you ever change to non-E85 or get low quality E85, your tune will not compensate for this.
    The innovate LC1 it looks like you have on ANVolt9 is outputting its the max rich voltage the whole time, so its clearly not working right - maybe dead sensor to match your gauge? 
    The narrwoband sensor you have configured on ANvolt8 is similarly reading a constant, junk value, which is so low it may not even be hooked up (max lean value). This type of sensor is borderline useless anyway even if it works so I wouldnnt bother trying to fix it.
     
    The 5 wire o2 sensors typically need an external controller to convert the signals into something the ECU can use, then either CAN or a voltage input to the ECU. follow the wires and see where they connect? Your gauge will have a version of this controller inside it for the second o2 sensor. Similarly, an EGT probe needs a controller and cannot connect directly to the ECU
  9. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from WANG Computers in Please look at this log & tune file & tell me what you think   
    Yep, the value you want is "% ethanol", but through some quirk of the UI, if you search for either "%" or "ethanol" you wont find it. filter by "alphabetical" and its the very first one. Yours bounces between 78 & 79% in that log. The same sensor provides eth% and fuel temp, all over the same digital input.

     
    Just a guess, but the second O2 sensor (or its controller) may not be wired to anvolt8. Its quite possible this was the factory wiring input for a narrowband o2 sensor, and isnt connected to anything at all right now. You could try changing one or both of these to "voltage 0-5v" so they log the raw values received, then drive to the end of the road and back. The voltages you receive should give you some idea if any device is connected to that pin. 
    I'm sure somewhere there is an OEM sensor that has 5 wires on a narrowband sensor, but you are correct that any of the common bosch 4.2 or 4.9 5-wire sensors are wideband.
     
  10. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from WANG Computers in Please look at this log & tune file & tell me what you think   
    Those stats are potentially quite old - 2315 starts & 272hours of engine runtime. it may be time to clear them out.
    In this particular log, inj DC only hits 52% and ECU temp is 37-38 deg which is fine.
    Your Lambda sensor is not connected in this log so we cant comment much on fuelling or the possible lean condition your tuner talks about. Your injectors however are no where near maxed out, so if you are running out of fuel, and increasing the numbers in your fuel table does not help, you might want to get a fuel pressure sensor installed and check that you aren't losing pressure (ie that your pump can flow enough, filter not blocked, big enough lines, etc).
    There are no trigger or cam errors, and your dwell looks consistent, so no obvious evidence of timing issues. I have no idea if your ignition angles are "good" for this engine as i'm not familiar with them. They look reasonably normal for a modern 4cyl turbo though. 
    What specifically are you concerned about?
  11. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from FIS in G4+ Mazda RX8 CAN Bus   
    This guy has a really good process on how to observe and reverse engineer canbus signals
    http://bobodyne.com/web-docs/robots/MINI/CAN/MINI_CAN.pdf
    His example use a mini but the process applies to everything. Its basically push the car through some known states eg press gas pedal, speed up, slwo down, turn steering wheel. Graph the output of each stream of data coming across the can bus, then try to map what you did to something you can see happening on the canbus.
    I've done this myself on a subaru using one of these
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dual-Channel-USB-To-CAN-Analyzer-DeviceNET-iCAN-VRMS-CANOpen-J19339-CAN-Analyzer/32359550686.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.TSYAka&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10345_10342_10547_10343_10340_10341_10548_10541_10084_10083_10560_10307_10175_10060_10155_10154_10056_10055_10539_10537_10312_10536_10059_10313_10314_10534_10533_100031_10103_10073_10102_10557_10142_10107,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=c137e58f-7221-4cd6-8e73-88f833c9f482&algo_expid=3d31339c-5443-452b-a5c7-85399dba71d8-0&algo_pvid=3d31339c-5443-452b-a5c7-85399dba71d8
    It looks really daunting to start with as literally nothing has labels, but as soon as you get your head around which devices are which ID's you can start to focus on things that matter - eg tacho signal has to come the ecu, speed has to come from the abs computer (check wiring diagrams but this is usually true) so you have a pretty good idea where to look, graph each block of data, then look for a graph pattern that matches what you did with the vehicle, then work out the scale of it. You may want to start by watching the ID's that are present and the time intervals of them and disconnecting abs/ecu/body control computer/etc to start with as the first step. Remember you dont have to understand all of it, just the signals you are sending from the ecu or receiving via canbus (eg speed)
  12. Like
    cj got a reaction from Clubspectom in Traditional to Modelled   
    Yes with a couple of assumptions. Changing traditional to modelled only affects fuel delivery, so as long as you re-tune fuelling to the same point, all other things will be equal. Eg it doesnt matter how you calculated the amount of fuel to add, X fuel at Y boost pressure is still safe at Z degrees of ignition. Unless you changed mechanical components of the engine/turbo/etc, those tables relate mostly to what is good/safe on your engine, not how much fuel it needs.
    The bit where you have to at least think about what you are doing though, is that to start with, your fuelling will be off, and so whatever ignition values you had previously used might be potentially dangerous if you are initially running a bit leaner while re-tuning.
  13. Like
    cj got a reaction from Adamw in id1000 subaru cant setup injectors. help   
    Try this one. You had switched it from traditional mode to modelled mode, but the fuel tables for these are completely different. All I've changed here is:
    swapped out the fuel table to one from a modelled fuel base map - it should be close enough to start but will still need to be tuned
    Disabled IAT correction - not usually needed for modelled fuel
    put in the ID1000 deadtimes and short pulse adder times.
     
    I would also suggest you run through some sanity checks for all your sensors before you start it. Looking at the last seen runtime values, the MAP sensor was reading 14kpa higher than atmospheric even with the engine off. The IAT & MAF IAT are differnent by nearly 10 degrees, and you TPS is reading 61% open. These all might be just quirks of the way you are testing it so far, but better to be safe than sorry.
    2063677987_SubaruWRXV9G4XtremePlugin-model.pclr
  14. Like
    cj got a reaction from Adamw in Trigger1 err   
    Sounds like you should run a trigger scope capture while holding rpm at just over 5500, maybe we will see some noise in the trigger signals
  15. Like
    cj got a reaction from xxcryptorchidxx in Really high ingnition values   
    If it were mine I would probably only drive it to/from the dyno and maybe to the shops. I wouldn't put any stress on it while it clearly has something wrong with the timing as you dont really know what else might be wrong to cause this, and what damage it's doing in the background. My gut feel is still that somehow your "zero" point is 10 or so degrees off from real TDC. You're showing ~18 deg @ idle, but a car can idle quite happily at 8 with the idle valve open a bit extra, and your injection timing been off by 10deg wont mean much. I'd start with doing the ECU calbration process again, following the setup guide exactly. If that doesnt help, probably rip the alternator belt, pulley, and side timing covers off the engine and make sure that all the timing marks are lined up on the actual crank + cams. The maybe a compression test and/or leakdown test? If you somehow had compression issues you could probably run additional timing without knock as the pressure in the cylinders would be a lot less than it "should be" at the level of boost you are seeing in the manifold.
    Are there any other issues with the engine? leaks, using water or oil, weird noises?
  16. Like
    cj got a reaction from Adamw in Subaru legacy bh5   
    What engine does your car have? non turbo or ez30 - maybe. single turbo conversion - maybe. factory twin turbo - controlling those would be a problem.
    Apart from that - these cars still had separate TCM's so theoretically it could be done. There are only about 10 wires that touch both the ECM and TCM in factory trim - TPS goes to both, RPM goes ECM-> TCM+tacho etc, MAF/MAP says it goes sensor->ECU then separately ECU->TCM but I seem to recall some of them go direct to the ECU&TCM from the sensor, and if not you could probably splice it to do this. Then there are the 3x torque control wires. You'd need to figure out whether the signals to ECM->TCM or the other way around, and whether the TCM actually needs them to function. I suspect you could do it but you might trash the transmission pretty quickly if you dont have the torque cut request working properly.
    Its certainly jumping well into the deep end and wouldnt be an easy swap.
  17. Like
    cj got a reaction from TechDave in Repeating Fault Code 75   
    Unfortunately that log doesnt contain values for TP Error Accumulator or TP/Target Error Accumulator. If we cant fix it here, add these 2 into the logged parameters for next time so we have better info next time it faults.
    For now, we can see here that the accel pedal has no issues and rule that out - both main and sub track nicely together and show no AP errors
    Comparing TP main & Sub we see the 2 of them track together quite nicely so its unlikely to be a TPS error. These 2 values seem to be within 0.2 - 0.3 at all times which is fine.
    comparing e-throttle target against TP main & Sub postitions however, we see that every time you get off the throttle, the TPS postition almost "bounces" back up a couple %. Usually this is caused by PID setting issues in the ethrottle control. in your case it looks like they might be a bit too aggressive, and its causing some pretty bad overshoot (and for it to not quite oscillate, but still jump back in the wrong direction once it overshoots). This screenshot shows the worst example I could find of both the "bounce" when you go from full throttle to 0%, and for general poor tracking of target -> actual TPS angle. Note the blue TPS line overshooting by 10% ish repeatedly between 10:04 and 10:08. There is another good example at 13:40 +/- 5 seconds.
    I'd suggest setting your ethrottle to "always run", then with the engine off, tune your PID settings a bit while logging these same values, until you get TPS to track target reliably thorugh both slow and fast throttle transitions

  18. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from Toliski in L/100km from Inst. Fuel consumption.   
    kph value / 60 = km per min (a)
    inst fuel (in cc/min) / 1000 = Litres per min (b)
    with these 2 values now both in X per min, you can remove the "minutes" from the equation and use the 2 values as Kilometers per Litre so (a/b) 
    To calculate it as km per (whole) Litre, multiply a by 1/b
    to change it from km per litre, to litre per 100km, you take 100 divide by the km-L value
     
    Example:
    50kph, 150cc/min
    50kph / 60 = 0.8333 km/min
    150cc-min / 1000 = 0.15 L/min
    now that "minutes" is constant to both numbers you can simply remove it to give 0.8333km per 0.15L
    mulitplication factor is 1/0.2L = 6.666
    so 0.83333km x6.666 = 5.55 km/L
    100/5.55 = 18.01 L per 100km
     
     
     
  19. Like
    cj got a reaction from alexjohn in Need Help turning on Car   
    That TPS singal looks better but you still need to run a re-calibration as the first 10-20% of the pedal travel isnt being registered, but that isn't why its stopping at 1500rpm.
    spark, fuel, afr all look normal.  Does it backfire/stutter/etc at 1500 or does it just sound like you're only holding your foot down 20%?
    It still looks like a mechnical blockage somewhere. If you disconnect the intake piping at the manifold can you rev it higher? This will rule out blocked filter etc.
    Can you spin the turbo by hand? if it were seized you could be blocking up both the intake and exhaust side which would do something like this.
    Are your cams intalled properly? either cam being off by a couple teeth (or adjusted too far if they can adjusted) could show up like this.
    The only ecu-ish thing I can see that might be relevant is that you still have your MAF hooked up, but its calibration is all wrong and the ECU thinks its a fuel pressure sensor! you dont have it configured to use this pressure in the fuelling calculations, so it shouldnt be relevant but its a bit strange. It also only ever shows "pressure" on overrun when you jump off the throttle. This was the same as your last log too. This could be your recirc valve opening and dumping boost, but you shouldnt have any boost there to vent as it never breaks 100kpa at open throttle. I'm not exactly sure what this means the fault is but if it were me i'd look into this a bit and see where it leads.
  20. Like
    cj got a reaction from M1tch in Need a quick hand with launch control   
    From what youve said about that log being approx 70mph, try 224 as your calibration number for DI1. should put you in the ballpark.
    Then grab a gps/phone and a straight road or dyno  and a friend, hold the speed steady on the GPS, then have your friend bump the number up/down until it matches.
  21. Like
    cj got a reaction from ayjayef in E-Throttle Min %DC Limit and a couple of others.   
    Yep thats the one
  22. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from iliasfyntanidis in Over run fuel cut clarification   
    In this particular circumstance I have seen this happen before. The car is warm, sits powered off for some time, and while the water in the radiator cools down quickly (especially if you have the key on and therfore probably the fan running), the water in the engine absorbs the heat from the hot engine however. If your sensor is on the way "out" of the engine, what you see is immedaitely on cranking, the temp increases 4 or 5 deg as the hot water in the engine goes out past the sensor, then it drop by 10 or 20 as the cool water from the radiator makes it way through the engine to the ECT sensor. 
    There are however some weird things going on the the confguration of the sensors...
    There are 2x coolant temp sensors defined, and both seem to be working (they are within a couple deg of each other but sometimes they diverge, so they are clearly not 2x signals from the same sensor) The Temp3 values align with ECT so it looks like temp4 is just being ignored, but having 2x sensors defined as the same things is asking for trouble. Same thing is configured for IAT - Temp1 is being used, and temp2 is being ignored. If these extras are just for logging you should define them as GP Temp and just label them, rather than telling the ECU you have 2x IAT's and 2x ECT sensors.
    There is something odd going on with the oil pressure sensor. It reads ~115 kpa with the engine off. Is this an absolute pressure sensor rather than a gauge sensor? if so, you should offset the calibration by 100kpa so it reads ~0 when the engine is off. Otherwise any safety's you set up will be wrong by ~100kpa.
    Is it the same type of sensor as the oil pressure, and its wired up but not installed in the fuel line? I think you have the same gauge vs absolute thing going on here too. 120kpa is a bit co-incidental of a value for it to stick on for no reason. If so, you need to do the same thing with offsetting the calibration.
    The reason you need to set up open loop before closed loop for most systems is that the closed loop logic is something like "use the open loop value, +/- a small correction based on feedback from sensors". If the open loop values are completely off, the "start" point for any closed loop control is way off and it may not be allowed to go that far away from baseline, and it will take some time to learn this "error" each time you start up (or return to idle for idle control) so it will run badly for a bit until it figures out what realistic values should be for the various control systems.
    The various "lockout" values only apply to the system they are set for. Idle lockouts control when the idle systems kick in. They have no bearing on other systems (ie overrun fuel cut). If you add the value "overrun fuel cut status" to a log view you can see when this kicks in. In your log about -5:00 you can see if coming on and off at the upper end of the idle range, but it is giving you the fuel back below ~1400rpm. Any stalling behaviour is caused by soemthing else as fuel isnt being cut below 1400rpm.
    I'm suspicsou you might have an intake leak. Your MAP is at ~95kpa at -2:30 in your log. I'm guess you have ITB's or huge cams but thats still very low vacuum. If you set it to open loop idle does it run OK? It seems off that the idle solenoid can be reporting 60% DC and yet you still only have 600rpm and bascially atmospheric MAP. Is the throttle screw on the TPS set correctly so you have a slightly low but passable idle with the idle solenoid disconnected?
     
     
  23. Like
    cj got a reaction from Adamw in tps signal disabled when car running   
    It looks like you havent run a TPS calibration. Here is the voltage being seen by the TPS input in you "no tps" log. Its changing just fine, assuming you only went to 20% ish throrottle.Your TPS % reads 0 the whole time, but that is because the calibtration is off. It is currently set to 0% = 1.315v, so anything under this voltage shows as 0%. Your actual 0% voltage is around 0.48V so the first 1/3 or so of your TPS movement isnt showing up.

    Now here is the TPS% vs the AN volt3 input from your "yes tps" log. Notice that the TPS% doesnt move until you hit 1.3V or so, but the voltage itself (and the real TPS angle) has moved quite a lot already.

    Turn ignition on, then go to ECU Controls menu -> TPS calibrate.
    This should fix it up. Once you've run this, check that your TPS% angle registers all the way from 0% to 99%+ and that the percentages line up with how much you are actually pressing the throttle.
  24. Like
    cj got a reaction from Rob W in Ecu hold power   
    Thats not really the idea behind hold power. Its supposed to be so you can reset idle solenoids and the like back to zero position. Trying to use it to avoid something like this runs a big risk that if you crank it for too long, the hold power timer expires, and the ECU turns off while its still cranking and you probably wouldnt even notice. 
    Better bet would be to re-wire your key output in this case so that the main relay is triggered by IGN1 key pos *and* by start key pos (ie run a wire from the key start position output to the main relay trigger).
    Are you sure your ignition circuit drops out entirely when key is at start pos? Ive heard of accessory power dropping out, and in some cases there are 2 IGN feeds off the key and 1 will drop out (for heater, aircon, wipers etc), but in most cases where people think they have this behaviour its actually just voltage drop due to the load being drawn by the starter. 
  25. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from Alan SMR2u in 4age 20v + Atom   
    For the coils themselves? here's the first good result from google, which lines up exactly with what Adam said. Sounds like you want the sequential option

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