Jump to content

cj

Members
  • Posts

    601
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    35

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    cj got a reaction from Confused in 2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table   
    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg.  Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop.
    Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high.
    You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  2. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from Gregconboy158 in Fuel level calibration   
    This should do roughly what you want. The values wont be used for any calculation but it would be enough that you could output it on a gauge in pclink.
    Obviously swap in your own values for ohm readings -> percentages. Also note that the raw value off these sensors is quite jumpy as the fuel sloshes around. I dont think there is a way to dampen them in the software but you can do it with some external electronics.
     



  3. Like
    cj got a reaction from Adamw in 2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table   
    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg.  Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop.
    Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high.
    You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  4. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from ayjayef in Fury - What happens during idle?   
    Your ignition table is in MGP, and doesnt go into negative. This means your ignition timing at anything non-boosted is effective a single row lookup. I notice it runs pretty minimal vacuum anyway, but you should still have this drop down to at least -30kpa as it seems your engine would use this at idle.
    Your fuel table numbers are very small, and your master fuel number is quite large - this doesnt "break" anything as such but it makes it very hard to get any resolution in your fuel table. eg you can only move from 12.0 to 12.1 and this might be quite a jump in injected fuel quantity. Try changing master fuel trim to 0, master fuel to 5, and then select the entire fuel table and type *4 <enter>. this drop your master fuel value to ~1/4 of what it is now, and multiples the table values by 4. The injected quantity will be the same but its easier to work with the fuel table now. 
    It looks like the reason it stalls is because it runs too lean. healthy idle is probably 0.9 lambda and 1.1 is probably stall. Post start enrichment is keeping you going to start with, and when it runs out, your engine goes lean and stalls. Try bumping up your master fuel table a little bit (maybe from 5 to 6 once you do the step above) until it can keep running once post start enrich goes to 0. Then once you know what "stable" idle looks like, you can reverse engineer the post start enrichment numbers to stop the idle creeping up at the beginning but this temporary high idle is not your biggest problem right now.

  5. Like
    cj got a reaction from Adamw in Lean warm/hot restart   
    its off because "sensible" values for IAT fuel enrichment are already used as part of the modelled calculation. 
    You *can* turn it on if you have a reason to do something "non-sensible", such as completely opposite of normal like add fuel at high IAT value at specific throttle opening, and just set the majority of the table to 0 except the points you want to change. The modelled fuel behaviour is still going on in the background. Think of it like an additional overlay table which you dont normally need.
  6. Like
    cj got a reaction from Jeffersonc in Fuel Table Cell Numbers   
    Its just so you have some resolution to play with. There is no "magic" to having 50's in the middle. 
    In traditional mode the master fuel value is how long the injectors open for at 100kpa if the fuel value is 100. Any value in the 100kpa line is basically what percentage of the master value is going to be used. 
    master fuel trim is bascially just there to let to put decimal points into the master fuel number. ie you cant enter 10.5ms, but you can enter 10ms, and then 5% fuel trim. So 10ms and 10% fuel trim is the same as just entering 11ms and 0% fuel trim. 
    If you're tuning from scratch I dont see a reason you'd use it. More likely it would be if you put in new injectors that were a few % off your old ones, or new engine parts that changed your VE just a fraction but equally across the whole fuel table
  7. Like
    cj got a reaction from Sheik in 2JZ Electric Power Steering Pump   
    The pumps come with a controller. I cant remember if its inbuilt or in a separate module right next to the pump but there is certainly a controller, it takes in voltage, ground, vss, and a signal the toyota manuals call PSCT which as far as I can figure stands for Power Steer Cutout.
    I've got an SW20 mr2 wired up to a fury and have it so the main power feed to the steering is via the factory relay (which may count as a "controller" anyway in that its not direct battery fed/not fed when key is off), plus a factory VSS input from the dash, plus I have the PSCT wire hooked up to the ECU and configured as below

    This means it doesnt provide assist when the engine is off, or above 20kph (the idea is to have it behave as a manual rack at anything above carpark speeds). Works a treat, and you can demo to the certifier that it must be "controlled" by switching that aux on/off in front of him and having the assist cut out. Only minor gremlin is that because of the way link ECU's seem to bring the outputs online, it very briefly ground's that output and applies assist at key on (for a fraction of a second) and you can hear the pump power up then down again. If this was deal breaker it would be simple enough to wire the aux out to a relay instead of straight to the controller
  8. Like
    cj got a reaction from Simon in Temp sensor inputs   
    Yes you can, you just need to wire in a pullup resistor to 5v so that the AnVolt input sees between 0-5V depending on the resistance of the sensor.
  9. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from Skinnydactyl in EZ30R MAP   
    What you have there is actually a passable base map given you can start the engine with it. 
    There are all kinds of small things but the biggest one is that you have what looks like a fuel table from a "traditional" tune but the fuelling is set to modelled. Try copying the numbers from the monsoon base map into your fuel table and try starting it again. You also have your injectors configured as 810cc @ 285KPA. factory injectors are 270 @ 300kpa if you are still running these. These numbers need to be accurate for modelled mode to work well.
    "smaller" things that you should also change:
    under fuel main>fuel system type, you have "none". This should match whatever you've currently got setup on your fuel rails. factory EZ30's changed from what was actually a MAP referenced regulator feeding returnless rails, to a true returnless system in either 05 or 06.
    you have no lambda input, this makes tuning MUCH easier.
    You dont have an intake temp sensor hooked up
    Probably turn off 4d fuel table and IAT correction (modelled mode handles IAT internally)
    you have nothing hooked up to trigger or read AVCS. Have a look at some of the Honda Vtec maps for methods of switching to secondary fuel and ignition tables for when this is activated.
    Run the VVT cam angle test process if you havent already - neither your trigger 2 or DI1 VVT offset match the expected ones from the help file. 
    and it looks like you're running the same TPS signal to both TPS main & sub. There are 2 position outputs on the factory ethrottle motor, you should run 1 to main and 1 to sub.
  10. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from Simon in EZ30D JDM swap into Subaru 2.5rs   
    The trigger signals themselves are the same between the EZ30D and EZ30R so you should be able to use the EZ30 trigger mode for trigger1 & 2, and then set the VVT type to Off. 
    Only thing that might be an issue is the older 30D's only had a single cam sensor, whereas the newer ones have one per bank. The bank's both use the same 3 tooth cam wheel but the offset vs the crank is different for left and right. I'm not sure if the older model used the same offset as the left or right cam - the left is supposed to be trigger 2 on the EZ30R's. I suspect the ECU will sort this out for itself but you'll want to check the timing before you fire it up (which you should do anyway, just make sure you actually do it on this engine.
    FYI the crank is the 36-2-2-2 and the cam is 3 tooth even spaced but cant manually put in complex numbers like the crank has. 
  11. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from TechDave in Ignition angle in logs vs table   
    You havent logged a lot of parameters so its hard to check exactly how this happened, but yep your log says you had 40.6* at 185kpa. 
    Looking at your config I think this has happened because you have dual ignition table set in overlay mode (ie table 1 + table 2 = value to use). Looking at the rest of your config you either didnt intend for this to be used at all (4d ign used instead), or you intended to have it in interpolate/switchover mode between the 2 ign tables (table 2 is roughly 1* higher values than table1, and your "enable" switch for table2 overlay is the say DI9 meth switch you use for 4d enable). You probably want to set dual ignition to disabled given you are handling this in 4d overlay anyway.
     
     
  12. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from Zerohour in MR2 NO SPARK From 1zz COIL ON PLUG!!   
    you want to use ign 1,2,3,4 and have it set to direct spark. Not 5678.
    Have you wired the coils up like this? http://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/coilpack-info-guide 
    Check you have got 12v and Gnd at the coils. The trigger voltage sounds about right, remember that when running its actually spiking up and down quickly to trigger the coils so a typical multimeter will show the number jumping around or an average number which doesnt really mean much. 
    Have you got spark edge set to rising?
     
     
  13. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from Zerohour in MR2 NO SPARK From 1zz COIL ON PLUG!!   
    Have you set the base timing? 
    Can you run successful spark test to each coil and confirm the cylinder numbering matches the ignition channel (you should hear them click)
    Those dwell numbers should let it start. I've seen reccomendations for 1zz coils anywhere from about 3.2 @ 14v to about 2.5 @ 14v so you're in the ballpark.
     
  14. Like
    cj got a reaction from Adamw in Base timing on ez30r   
    The crank pulley is keyed and there are 2 round indents on the crank pulley itself. When turning the engine clockwise (ie normal bolt tightening direction), when the second one it straight up is tdc. Have a watch of this video to see for yourself, or remove your crank pulley and shine a torch in the timing cover behind it. There is an arrow on the chain pulley that points up at TDC, this means the key on the crank is at 3 oclock position, and the second dot faces straight up. 
    I'll check on the one I have out of the car later on but I dont think there is a mark on the timing cover, so just set the engine at TDC and get your white marker pen and make one. Make a line on the crank pulley instead of just that round dot while you're at it.
    You can also pull the number 1 spark plug and turn the engine by hand with a screwdriver/drinking straw/anything similar pushed into the spark plug hole to get TDC within a few degrees if the crank pulley is hard to remove.

  15. Like
    cj got a reaction from Adamw in 350Z+ G4+ questions   
    distance to empty?
  16. Like
    cj got a reaction from Adamw in Map sensor wrong readings   
    Looks ok to me. idle is about 30kpa, and under throttle it jumps up to about 180kpa (ie 80kpa/11.6psi of boost).
    It looks like you're struggling to hold boost at this level though as it tapers off over a few seconds, but your MAP and MGP numbers look accurate.
    I'd guess that what you are seeing is that the metric>imperial conversion for MAP is working correctly, but its not "normal" to see psi in absolute terms. 30kpa is roughly 4psi, but normally you'd expect to see this as -10.5psi MGP or -22inches of mercury. Remember that 0 psi on a boost gauge (MGP) is 14.7psi absolute pressure (MAP)
  17. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from Sheik in Engine protection question   
    If you dont mind it being a bit harsh, you can "chain" virtual aux's with as many parameters as you want, and set this virtual aux as the trigger for any kind of engine protection you want (either RPM limit, or the trigger to swap to a low power ignition/ethrottle table, etc). Its a straight on/off though so if you want it to fell graceful you have to set up the "safe" table to have something like usable values up to 2-3k rpm or 10% throttle and "limit" values above this.
  18. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from JMP in Differential Fuel Pressure   
    change your fuel system type to FP sensor. Without that, Fuel pressure is not actually used for the various calculations. The way you had it, it tells the ECU to always assume it's 300kpa.

  19. Thanks
    cj got a reaction from Gsab in Low Oil Pressure protection strategy question   
    The warning light is simple enough - configure an aux output as GP on/off, label it "Oil pressure warning" or similar, and set the condition to "oil pressure < 30kpa" or whatever you decide is a good level. This output will be connected to the ground side of your warning light in most cases. 
    the ignition cut you can do a couple ways but you'll probably end up setting a GP RPM limit (under engine protection). turn on GP limit 1, then in the GP limit 1 table, change the Y axis to "oil pressure". You now set the rpm limit to 10000 or something higher than you ever hit in all cells where you want the engine to run normally, and either zero or your idle rpm in all the "failure" cells (ie the low pressure+high RPM cells). you can also do some logging of normal oil pressure and tweak the table using this so that the threshold for "failure" is just below normal at every RPM. If you set the limit to 0 you will stall the engine. There is a startup lockout timer in the GP limit settings that you may need to set so you can actually get the engine to start and have the oil pressure stabilise before it starts limiting it.
    If you have e-throttle you have another option of setting a second ethrottle target table where the target value never goes above 5 or 10% (or 0 if you want to stall it). You then set the condition for switching to table 2 to be the status of your warning light. This way you can also add in low fuel pressure or any other protection conditions you want to cover by adding them as conditions for the warning light (which could also be a virtual aux if you want the warning light to use different conditions than the thottle table swap.
  20. Like
    cj got a reaction from KcJones in Speed lockout issues? Idle jump.   
    I've had another look at the start of the logs and where it was idling at 1200 ish near the start, the Closed loop control is at -4.2 to -4.6%. This is "added" to the numbers I described in my first post giving you an idle TP  value of about 3.5% which is sounds normal. Once you do any of the following for a few seconds it exits closed loop idle and never gets back down to it because your open loop idle throttle numbers are still too high and you're stuck above the idle lockout - AP over 5%, revs over 1400, or speed over 2kph. If you can make your open loop numbers (AP target + base idle postition) add up to give you 3.5ish% throttle target then I think you'll find it behaves a lot better.
  21. Like
    cj got a reaction from Purpleline in R35 MAF   
    Have a read of this post. Seems like it works but probably not preferred
     
     
  22. Like
    cj got a reaction from krohelm in Toyota Oil Pressure Sender   
    https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Female-Sensor-Adapter-Reducer/dp/B00NWZ3TUI
    looks like the sort of thing a lot of welding or gas supplies stores would have. Or order one from amazon/ebay.
  23. Like
    cj got a reaction from Adamw in 3uzfe e throttle   
    Your PID settings look good enough - your target vs actual tracking is pretty accurate.
    The numbers in your TPS calibration dont line up with the max/min voltages seen by the ECU though, so its like at clsoed throttle its actually reading -10% for example.
    The biggest problem is that the latest log now shows voltages for main and sub both moving over a full range of motion, no 70% stop on the sub signal like you have configured. Try changing the tps sub percentage to 100% and get another log please.
    If you look at the TPS voltages rather than the percentages,it shows TPS main as 0.66v minimum and 3.12v maximum. These should normally be your closed and open numbers. Your config has closed and open numbers as 1.051 and 2.972. The 100% value looks to match the steady state open throttle voltage of 2.97v, but it spikes above 2.97v up to 3.12v for a little bit each time you snap the throttle open. I'd suggest leaving open voltage at 2.97 for now but changing the closed number to match minimum value. At the closed end the throttle it has to get to several percent open before it will register any movement off the closed position. Try changing the TPS main closed value to 0.66v 
    TPS sub shows 2.21v min and 4.93 max. Again your open value of 4.966V looks close enough, but your closed value of 2.698 means the sub sensor also wont see any movement until a few percentage points of movement. Try changing the closed value to 2.21v.
    I also noticed something strange in your log - the minimum values are usually 0.66v and 2.21v, but  at 27 sec, 39 sec and at 45 sec it attempts to return to 0% throttle, but the voltages sit above the closed voltages. I'm assuming this is just because once it drops below the expected minimum it will stop driving the throttle shut, so its probably just physically at 2-3% open. Theres a chance though that your tps does have issues and isnt registering the closed voltages consistently. You'll need to change the closed calibration numbers and re-run the log with all values present to check.
     
  24. Like
    cj got a reaction from Adamw in 3uzfe e throttle   
    Based on your log try these settings
    main closed voltage: 0.95
    main open voltage: 4.41
    sub closed voltage: 2.56
    sub open voltage: 4.93
    sub 100 percentage: 60%
     
    [edit]if that dip in voltage at the start of the log is not just an anomaly, and represents actual 0% TPS, then you need to use the value below. Does it look like the at rest position of the throttle blade is completely shut or does it look 2-3% open, and only fully closed when pushed/driven shut? Once you get it pretty close, can you run the calibration wizard to fine tune it?
    main closed voltage: 0.66
    main open voltage: 4.41
    sub closed voltage: 2.21
    sub open voltage: 4.93
    sub 100 percentage: 62.5%
  25. Like
    cj got a reaction from AlexLSX7 in Using Xtreme G4+ to control MR2 Power Steering   
    You'll need to check the wiring in your own car to determine how its wired up. Its likely gearbox > dakota > dash + ecu, but you can set these things up many different ways.  Is it the factory dash? the link acceptable input range is in the same ballpark as what most 90's dash's expected, and that TR6060 probably outputs a much higher frequency being quite a new gearbox, so i'd guess the dakota box is used to drop the frequency to something the dash and ecu can both use. Conveniently, most 90's japanse cars used the same number of pulses per km for their dashes, so you can probably just splice into the dash+ecu speed signal and run an additional wire to the speed input on the steering ecu.
    Get out your multimeter and figure out which wires connect to where so you can be certain.
    You've got 3x options
    1) use the link as a frequency converter and run a new speed output wire from link > steering ecu
    2) connect from one of the dakota outputs to the steering ecu
    3) if youve already got the right frequency running into your dash you can add a wire to this so its connects to the steering ecu as well.
     
    Only #1 will give you personalisable control over the level of assist. The other 2 will both take the real speed and feed it to the steering ecu so it will follow the factory speed vs assist calibration. 
×
×
  • Create New...