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rocklizzard91

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  1. I have a Link G4+ PNP ECU for my V9 EJ207 powered 2002 WRX, I am no longer running the factory MAF/IAT sensor in the intake and have fitted Bosch 0280130085 sensors (seemingly the same as Link IATB sensors). I have one in the turbo inlet pipe and one in the plenum (post throttle plate). I've been chasing a terrible heat soak issue for a long while that makes the car lean out at low speed/rpm until I get some airflow through the engine to cool it down. I was thinking maybe the issue is just that the sensor reads artificially high due to a lack of airflow through the plenum at idle (heatsoak) I decided to test my theory by putting a T1 Motorsport Air Temp Sensor (seemingly the same as Link's IAT1-8) in the top mount intercooler outlet, just before the throttle plate. However, now nothing matches and I feel more confused. Running the T1 sensor on the Link NTC1-8 & IAT1-8 scaling and the Delphi AC IAT scaling resulted in the same temperature and read similar to ambient after the car sat for ~24h. The T1 sensor read 54* while the ambient was 65*, not perfect, but who knows how different the air is while in the intercooler I guess. It seems to be reliable and does support my theory that they are the same sensor. (T1 even advertises that they use the same scaling as GM IAT's). However, running the Bosch 0280130085 sensor on the Link NTC12 & IATB reads noticeably higher than ambient (25* higher than the T1 sensor, reading 79* while air temp is 65*) Again, this was after letting the car sit for ~24h to stabilize temps with ambient. Running the Bosch sensor on the Std Bosch NTC scaling reads the same as the IATB scaling, and finally, the Bosch sensor on the Bosch 0280130017 scaling reads closer, but not identical (~7* off vs 25* off with the IATB scaling) the T1 sensor. The sensors are both mounted in aluminum parts (Intercooler and intake plenum) and are maybe a total of 6 inches apart, one on each side of the throttle plate. My main concern is that the sensors on either side SHOULD be the same temperature, especially after sitting for 24h. This makes me think that the Bosch sensor is incorrectly scaled and it may be the main issue with my heatsoak problem. Maybe it's reading artificially high due to the scaling, not the sensor placement. That said, Here is the sensor data and checking those vs Links published sensor data in the manual and it matches the Bosch NTC scaling best, but even when I used a CAL table to manually input the sensor data, it still output values that match the IATB values and the Bosch NTC (side note, the Link sensor data isn't posted in the manual). Why does the Bosch 0280130017 scaling get me closer to the correct temp then? So I guess the TLDR; is the IATB the same as the 028130085? If it is, why doesn't it match my IAT1-8 when the temps should be identical? Or at least more similar. FWIW, even while driving and going WOT, the sensors both should react fast enough to equalize with the amount of air flowing through them and they don't read the same then either. I greatly appreciate any insight you all may have!
  2. I just saw that the resistor is required with even just one CAN device. I didn't do that but it does work. Is this bad to run like this? Should I change it ASAP?
  3. Hey guys, I've got a Link G4+ that I just put in an AEM x-series wideband into and would like to use the CANBUS to receive data. I've never missed with CANBUS before, can anyone give me some quick and dirty instructions on how to input that so the ECU you can read it? It's all wired up to CAN H and CAN L already, I just need help with the software
  4. Hey guys, looking to run a windows tablet as as supplementary digital dash for my PNP Link G4+. What kind of hardware specs do I need for PC link? Will a 1GB ram tablet run it well? Or do I need something with 2GB+?
  5. Thanks for the advice! I swapped out the cam sensor last week and so far *knock on wood!* it seem like the issue is resolved! The trigger 2 plot looks even better and has less noise when zoomed in between the 2 pairs. It also does seem to idle better as well. Just wanted to post up that the issue was resolved for anyone who might find this later!
  6. Alright guys, posted a while back asking about what I thought was a flooding issue for restarts after the car has sat a while (but still hot). I have a running trigger scope (photo #1) from my Link G4+ and a trigger scope for when it wont start (photo #2). The odd thing is that if I just start the car and idle warm up without driving when the water hit 176F (only verified temp once today) it shut off and started doing the same thing it does when I have my slightly cooled hot starts. I pulled the brand new plugs I put in tonight and saw they dont look wet and the AFR was fine when idling. I do notice in that no start trigger scope I have normal crank trigger plots but NO cam trigger is registering. But it does register just fine at operating temp. Does my running trigger scope look normal? Could this reluctor cam sensor have some kind of issue when it gets some heat into it? Has anyone seen anything like that or have any ideas why I have a random cam trigger issue? If I'm driving the car it doesnt have any trigger issues.
  7. I do have both assigned to LF. I didn't move the car though. Will driving and then stopping put it into sync maybe? I had an issue like that before when I was trying to use a virtual input using speed for launch control. It didn't work until I had driven it
  8. Moderators, can this please be moved to G4+? Accidently posted in G4
  9. Hey everyone, I'm using my G4+ plug and play ecu for the V7-9 WRX and I cant seem to get the Ignition idle control to affect my ignition timing. I have gone as far as selecting the whole table and entering in a correction value to try to force it to change my ignition advance in the runtime menu and it still doesnt affect timing. Lockouts are set at the preset values. I believe its 1200rpm, 6mph and -6psi. What could be interfering with the table and overriding my attempts at adjusting the overall advance? I can change it in the ignition table and it does show changes in the runtime menu. This makes me think there might be something preventing corrections?
  10. Sorry about that! Just saw this! I sent you an email!
  11. Awesome! thanks! One last question, once I have one of the autosport labs converters plugged into the G4+ do I get to assign what each AN channel gets "read" as? for example can I assign them as all 4 DI's or two AN channels and two DI's etc. There are a TON of inputs on the list you posted. How does the software decide what each parameter on the list you posted gets read as from the converter? Will each channel have a drop down menu to assign them?
  12. Thanks Adam! You are always a huge help! I appreciate it! Typically AN inputs are 0-5v and DI inputs can be 0-12v correct? Looking over the list, it does remind me I was going to ask about the "Subaru Cruise SwA" and "Subaru Cruise SwB" Digital inputs. I have a V7-9 WRX PnP Link G4+ in my Subaru and plan to swap the DBC to DBW and would like to use the Link cruise control with my factory cruise stalk. I haven't looked at the wiring for my stalk yet but it looks like those might be pre-calibrated for use? just run the A and B wires to DI's and assign them for cruise use?
  13. Hey everyone, I am unfamiliar with CANBUS in general, and have a few questions. I am curious how limited the CAN network is, what kind of stuff can I do? From what I have been able to dig up, CAN sensor inputs are limited to exhaust, fuel and oil pressure if I remember correctly. What can I use CAN for as far as input switches go? I was hoping to use a pair of ECU Master rotary switches for launch control and boost control as well as a few toggle switches for activating water injection, intercooler sprayer, anti-lag, etc. Is that something I could use a CAN converter for? Where could I learn some more about this kind of stuff? The help file is a little slim on specifics. This was referred in another thread I found, but I'm not sure this could be used for something like the rotary switches? https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/analogx-4-channel-analog-to-can-interface/
  14. why are you looking to swap? im in the opposite boat, looking to go from DBC to DBW! trade me your stuff! haha
  15. Thank you for the help! That certainly clears things up! Just to clarify, I will use AUX4/9 in the ecu and physically wire the E-throttle with AUX 9/10 correct? Are there plans to use any of those unconnected Aux/DI/AN Volts in the future? Or are they left over in the coding from other ECU's? Would I be able to assign that "E-throttle relay" to one of the unconnected Aux11-16s?
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