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Everything posted by rocklizzard91

  1. I just saw that the resistor is required with even just one CAN device. I didn't do that but it does work. Is this bad to run like this? Should I change it ASAP?
  2. Hey guys, I've got a Link G4+ that I just put in an AEM x-series wideband into and would like to use the CANBUS to receive data. I've never missed with CANBUS before, can anyone give me some quick and dirty instructions on how to input that so the ECU you can read it? It's all wired up to CAN H and CAN L already, I just need help with the software
  3. Hey guys, looking to run a windows tablet as as supplementary digital dash for my PNP Link G4+. What kind of hardware specs do I need for PC link? Will a 1GB ram tablet run it well? Or do I need something with 2GB+?
  4. Thanks for the advice! I swapped out the cam sensor last week and so far *knock on wood!* it seem like the issue is resolved! The trigger 2 plot looks even better and has less noise when zoomed in between the 2 pairs. It also does seem to idle better as well. Just wanted to post up that the issue was resolved for anyone who might find this later!
  5. Alright guys, posted a while back asking about what I thought was a flooding issue for restarts after the car has sat a while (but still hot). I have a running trigger scope (photo #1) from my Link G4+ and a trigger scope for when it wont start (photo #2). The odd thing is that if I just start the car and idle warm up without driving when the water hit 176F (only verified temp once today) it shut off and started doing the same thing it does when I have my slightly cooled hot starts. I pulled the brand new plugs I put in tonight and saw they dont look wet and the AFR was fine when idling. I do notice in that no start trigger scope I have normal crank trigger plots but NO cam trigger is registering. But it does register just fine at operating temp. Does my running trigger scope look normal? Could this reluctor cam sensor have some kind of issue when it gets some heat into it? Has anyone seen anything like that or have any ideas why I have a random cam trigger issue? If I'm driving the car it doesnt have any trigger issues.
  6. I do have both assigned to LF. I didn't move the car though. Will driving and then stopping put it into sync maybe? I had an issue like that before when I was trying to use a virtual input using speed for launch control. It didn't work until I had driven it
  7. Moderators, can this please be moved to G4+? Accidently posted in G4
  8. Hey everyone, I'm using my G4+ plug and play ecu for the V7-9 WRX and I cant seem to get the Ignition idle control to affect my ignition timing. I have gone as far as selecting the whole table and entering in a correction value to try to force it to change my ignition advance in the runtime menu and it still doesnt affect timing. Lockouts are set at the preset values. I believe its 1200rpm, 6mph and -6psi. What could be interfering with the table and overriding my attempts at adjusting the overall advance? I can change it in the ignition table and it does show changes in the runtime menu. This makes me think there might be something preventing corrections?
  9. Sorry about that! Just saw this! I sent you an email!
  10. Awesome! thanks! One last question, once I have one of the autosport labs converters plugged into the G4+ do I get to assign what each AN channel gets "read" as? for example can I assign them as all 4 DI's or two AN channels and two DI's etc. There are a TON of inputs on the list you posted. How does the software decide what each parameter on the list you posted gets read as from the converter? Will each channel have a drop down menu to assign them?
  11. Thanks Adam! You are always a huge help! I appreciate it! Typically AN inputs are 0-5v and DI inputs can be 0-12v correct? Looking over the list, it does remind me I was going to ask about the "Subaru Cruise SwA" and "Subaru Cruise SwB" Digital inputs. I have a V7-9 WRX PnP Link G4+ in my Subaru and plan to swap the DBC to DBW and would like to use the Link cruise control with my factory cruise stalk. I haven't looked at the wiring for my stalk yet but it looks like those might be pre-calibrated for use? just run the A and B wires to DI's and assign them for cruise use?
  12. Hey everyone, I am unfamiliar with CANBUS in general, and have a few questions. I am curious how limited the CAN network is, what kind of stuff can I do? From what I have been able to dig up, CAN sensor inputs are limited to exhaust, fuel and oil pressure if I remember correctly. What can I use CAN for as far as input switches go? I was hoping to use a pair of ECU Master rotary switches for launch control and boost control as well as a few toggle switches for activating water injection, intercooler sprayer, anti-lag, etc. Is that something I could use a CAN converter for? Where could I learn some more about this kind of stuff? The help file is a little slim on specifics. This was referred in another thread I found, but I'm not sure this could be used for something like the rotary switches? https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/analogx-4-channel-analog-to-can-interface/
  13. why are you looking to swap? im in the opposite boat, looking to go from DBC to DBW! trade me your stuff! haha
  14. Thank you for the help! That certainly clears things up! Just to clarify, I will use AUX4/9 in the ecu and physically wire the E-throttle with AUX 9/10 correct? Are there plans to use any of those unconnected Aux/DI/AN Volts in the future? Or are they left over in the coding from other ECU's? Would I be able to assign that "E-throttle relay" to one of the unconnected Aux11-16s?
  15. Adam, thanks! I do have a PCB REV V1.4 and it seems to follow the expansion connector you described! Thats good to know! As well as not needing the relay! Any idea why my file doesnt include Aux10 as shown above? I do have a few other issues now that I am diving into things. I was trying to map out all my available pins to see how I can make it all work and I think I may have some typos with the manual? AN Volt 12 DI 10-11 AUX 11-16 are all available and have functioning setting in my ECU file but it not included on the ECU pinout diagram. This would make more sense that the ECU may use the pins I mentioned earlier. To further this, Aux 4 is labeled as "do not use". Just curious why it would be labeled as such. The OEM pinout says C-9 (aux4) is RPM, but in the file I was instructed to use IGN5 to drive the tacho (which worked without changing any wiring) and IGN5 is not labeled at all. Is their a more current wiring pinout diagram I may need to make sense of all this?
  16. I guess that leads me to a few more questions. Where is the +14V input to the ECU from the throttle relay? It says AUX 9/10 on the diagram but then also has them output to the E-Throttle motor. Is there a specific +14V input I need to feed power from the relay? Or do I just pick one and tell the ECU? I also was just looking through my file and noticed AUX 10 is not available? I do have it on my board on one of the expansion connectors, but it is not available for my AUX dropdown. I have a Link G4+ PNP V7-V9 STi ECU
  17. Hey, I was curious if a knock CEL function could be added where the CEL will flash briefly in the event the ecu sees a knock event? Coming from the open source Subaru world, it was a really nice feature I miss. There were trigger points to help prevent the CEL from flashing for the smaller/false knocks. Here is an Example
  18. Hey everyone, I'm interested in swapping my drive by cable EJ207 to an OEM Subaru drive by wire setup. I have already researched the required hardware needed for the swap, but I have a few wiring questions. It looks like doing this conversion will use up a lot of my Aux/AN pins (approx 6?) I was looking over my OEM ecu pinouts vs the Link G4+ pinouts and it looks like there are a lot of pins that aren't used for anything anymore that could be used for aux functions if the Link can drive those pins still. For example the factory ECU has two tumble generator valves in the intake manifold that are used for emissions control and most users delete them. They are typical 0-5v sensors to read valve position like a TPS. Is there any way to regain these pins functions in the ECU to use these pins for the E-throttle control and preserve the existing aux pins for extra sensors and motorsport function switches? Using these "dead" pins would open up a lot of functions! I am also a little curious about wiring. I attached the Generic Internal E-Throttle wiring diagram. I understand that Aux 9/10 are used to drive the throttle motor open and closed. But I dont understand the E-Throttle relay logic. Should I be running two E-Throttle relays (in this case off Aux 9 and 10) and that relay is grounded off the Aux pin to drive the relay? Or what exactly is the function of the relay?
  19. Just wanted to check in, I did resolve the problem! Switching the 1.0 lambda target down to 0.9 lambda solved it! I could have sworn I heard you can run near stoich for 0-2 or 3psi. I am pretty sure I did on the factory cams and turbo. I'm thinking maybe the bigger cams are causing some overlap which give a false stoich reading? But regardless the new target fixed my hiccup and it runs great now!
  20. Your manual will cover wiring and setup. It's very easy. What ecu are you running? A universal or PNP?
  21. I will try to richen up the map and see how that affects the popping. I was a little curious on the dwell, the Link values were a bit lower versus my factory ecu values so I changed them (only in the 12-14v areas if I remember correctly) Are my factory dwell times too long? Should I stick with the Link values?
  22. Im running the factory STI fuel pulse dampers and it has the factory length vac hose. I haven't touched them. So I decided to remove and replace the timing belt just to be safe and i made sure the Link was sync'd with the crank correctly. All is good mechanically, but I still plan to do a compression and leakdown test. Unfortunately the car is only street tuned and I wont have time to go rent a dyno until the car is closer to "done" Here is something interesting though. I found a guy with a similar setup and the same turbo and got ROM from him for my factory ecu. I loaded that up and aside from the AFR's (likely due to cams) it seems to not suffer from the odd miss. The car seems to spool the turbo noticeable faster (probably because its not missing) but the top end seems a little slower. I decided to pull the ignition and AVCS table over into my Link ecu and the miss still remains. However, even with the same ignition and AVCS values the top end feels more powerful. I'm not sure what this means really, but i feel like it is likely a setting in my Link map that is causing my issues.
  23. it is pretty rough there, but if you zoom in to look at the actual events on the MAP line you can see the PWs look pretty consistent. I dont think its really a fuel issue because I have ran it richer and leaner with no help in the occurrence. even across a few events like this you can see the PWs look pretty smooth. the spikes are there, but i think those are from the mysterious events that cause the MAP jump which makes it want to dump fuel as if it was really seeing that MAP
  24. Hey everyone! I'm having some issues with what I think is my Link G4+ tune. I am getting an odd occurrence at about 3500rpm and about 15MAP. It almost feels like a misfire and makes a pop that sounds like a backfire through the intake. I have checked plug gap to be .028, no boost leaks, when I installed the cams and redid the timing belt I did verify timing was correct but as I am writing this I guess it could have jumped? I will check that tomorrow. I have played with ignition timing, fueling, AVCS and dwell with no luck. The problem stays on e85 as well as 91oct and 93oct. Sometimes it pops really bad and sometimes it is more mild, but it seems like a tune issue because after 4000rpm it drives completely normal. Any ideas? Build info: V9 EJ207, 266/268 Brian Crower cams, Borg Warner S200SXE (7670) IAT in the manifold plenum, Link G4+ PNP ECU, factory fuel rails, ID1300 injectors, Factory FPR, Walbro 255, Hybrid MBC/EBCS boost control, GM ethanol content sensor. That should be all the pertinent info. This map is tweaked off the factory V9 Link basemap to get me by; it definitely needs work but I wanted to figure out this issue before I got too far with everything else. Thanks for any help! I included a log/map for you all, let me know if you need anything else. flat 2.llg 91oct1.6dwell.pclr
  25. Just kidding! I got it! I rolled back to the 2013 Intel graphics card driver and now it works! It must be a new Intel graphics driver issue :/
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