AlexLSX7

Both 14.7 I just haven't finished tuning idle yet since the car isn't completely done.

I have two AEM wideband x series running into my G4+ Xtreme via can. At idle the gauge for example will be reading around 13.5 but the the ECU is reading around 9. If it hunts a bit it will go up as the gauge goes up. I've had them on the car working before. The only thing I've done recently is update to the latest (and I assume final) version of the software and firmware while I was rebuilding my turbokit. Is there something I need to change somewhere?

I want to setup traction control on my FD. Previous owner removed ABS and the ABS rings and sensors from the front hub, as well as the sensors from the rear hub, although if i remember rightly, the rings are still at the rear. I have seen people using the stock sensors and rings OK for traction control, but have read that using a hall effect or similar type sensor with the stock ABS ring will not work well due to the amount of teeth. I have had a look around and new sensors are about £200+, used are £50+ but you never know what state they will be in. I cant find any ABS Rings New or Used! So my question is - Is there any aftermarket ring/sensor or other solutions i can use to run traction control?

I've also just let it cool down for a few hours, tried starting it and it started straight away. It ran for a few minutes then turned off again and, again I can't start it, just cranks over

Hi Adam, Apologies for the very late reply, the car is over an hour from me and I've not been able to get to it. So I had a spare cam and crank sensor so I replaced them both. Car started straight away. I tried turning it back on after letting it run for a bit and it wouldn't start again. I put an extra earth on from the engine to chassis and the car started straight away. Thinking it was resolved I carried on doing some other bits to try and finish the car. Gone to work on it today, started straight away everything seems fine. I turn it off and try turning it on again to see if it will start, of course it doesn't. I tried adding a thick earth from battery to engine as well as the other one I did and it just cranks over. I did a trigger scope, and trigger 1 (assuming crank signal?) Is just flat lining. Trigger 2 gets a line up then straight then down again when the capture finishes. I checked the wiring on both the plugs when I changed the sensors and they were both fine. I've checked the cam sensor wiring again and it's fine. The crank plug I can't get to as the headers in the way and I can't get under the car when I'm on my own as I can't get it over the pit without trapping myself. Does this sound like the wiring for the crank sensor to be the issue?

Ahh I clicked it before I was cranking. I'll give it a try Monday and post the log.

I did try that but nothing was showing. Messed about with the voltage settings on the side but still didn't get anything. I won't be at the car until Monday now if there is anything I need to change to get it working?

I have a twin turbo ls3 in an RX7. I've had it running before with no issues and tuned it. I'm about done rebuilding the turbo kit. I moved the car yesterday and it started instantly like it always did. I span it round and put it back in the garage then let it idle for a bit (have let it idle multiple times before this) Went to start the car today and it's just popping and banging occasionally when cranking. Usually it does that when the front can sensor isn't plugged in. Ive checked the wiring and plug on that sensor and it's fine and getting voltage (3 pin) I can't reach down to the crank signal but was able to feel the wiring and it's not touching anything. When cranking the rpm signal on the ECU seems to come on and off like a pulse (not sure if that's normal as never paid any attention to it before). It is giving errors on the trigger 1 counter. I can't see trigger 2 turning on, but again I'm not sure if it did before as not paid attention to it I've tried loading an older map which made no difference. Other than trying to get to the plug for the crank sensor, I don't know what else to look at. Ive also tested the coils individually and I can smell fuel so I know the injectors are working as well as some pops when testing the coils. Fuel pressure is fine. I have a log of cranking if it helps but can't post till I get home. Any help greatly appreciated

Yeah i do have them still, i will give them a try tonight. I just found a manual online for the gauges, if you look at page 7 it says it has 5v signal with a 10k pulldown, do i need to put a 10k resistor in line with it? It also says that the black wire is the pressure signal and the green wire is the ground, although the wire is not green in mine its just an open braid, but it did have a tiny bit of green sleeve on it when i took them off. http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/spa/docs/DG52 (50 issue 3).pdf

So I did the fuel pump test. I did the red wire on +, black wire on - and the braided wire on the + on the voltmeter. I got a reading of 0.77 the same as last time. Turned the pump on and no change. I tried the red wire on +, braided wire on -, black wire on + on voltmeter. Reading was 0.76. turned the pump on and it went up to 1.68 then floated around there. Turned the second pump on and it went up to around 1.78 until I'm guessing the pressure equalised a bit and went back to floating around 1.68. Once I turned off the pumps the reading slowly went back to 0.76. So would I be right to assume that the red wire is 5v, the braided is ground and the signal wire is the black?

There are a red and black wire and a like a braided wire that looks like wire without the cover. They are on the car at the moment and hard to see but the fuel pressure regulator looks like 3100H001

So i did the test. Red on +, Black on -, Braided on volt meter = 0.77v Black on +, Red on -, Braided on volt meter = 4.5v All other combinations = 4.5v So according to that it was wired correctly? I only tried a couple of sensors which seem to be the same. If i tried my fuel pressure sensor then turn the fuel pump on the ECU, i should see some voltage change shouldn't i?? Due to the pressure increasing?

Thanks man will give that a try.

Also the TPS and ethrottle is wired into these two pins and they are working fine and showing voltages. Just drove the car and the ethrottle still working fine just nothing from the sensors :-/

They are all coming up as 0 volts. Cut and rewired the ground, lives and signal wires and it has made no difference... These sensors were originally off spa design gauges should that make a difference?

How do I see the voltage log on the an pins?

I have a link G4+ Extreme that i want to wire some sensors in that i removed from some SPA gauges i had. I have an oil and fuel pressure sensor that are the same and a water and oil temp sensor which are also the same. There are 3 wires in all 4 sensors - A Red and a Black wire which are both wrapped in some foil shielding and an exposed braid as the 3rd wire. I wired the black wires into the sensor ground (pin 24 on A connector) I wired the red wires into the 5v out (pin 32 on A connector) Open braided wire into spare AN pins. Setup calibration on CAL 4 as fuel pressure and set to 0.45 - 4.5. Tried that on all 4 sensors incase i had them wrong one (they all look the same) and it made no difference on any of them. Have i wired them in wrong? This is a link to the data sheet for the pressure sensors, mine is a GEMS 3100H https://www.gemssensors.com/~/media/files/resources/na_english/catalogpages/catalog-h_3100series-3200series.ashx?fbclid=IwAR3Yzlqvvx1Kx_YDulCKLDvBi1seGmzOJfBxJd9JJVUcCSrDupLFazVhhQE

They all have their own IDs, but no i haven't set them to the same bit rate. Will give that a try thanks Would it be better to set the widebands to 1mbit or the dash to 500?

I have just wired up a brand new Aim MXS Strada 1.2 to my Link G4+ Xtreme. I have set the canbus settings as shown in the Link Help files on both the ECU and Dash. The dash will receive a signal from the ECU for a minute or so and then it will disconnect. If i go into the CANBUS settings on the ECU software then click 'Apply' it will reconnect again for around a minute or so. I set TPS as one of the readings on the dash so i know when its just about to disconnect as the readings will stop then go blank. I havent run the engine yet, this is just with the key switched to the 'ON' position. I have 2 AEM Widebands working through CANBUS that have been fine before this, so not sure what the problem could be? Any ideas?

I have setup a digital gauge for GP Speed on DI 1 and it comes up as KPH no matter what my unit settings are for both imperial and metric. Any ideas how to fix it so it displays MPH?

i have 3 dual SPA Design gauges in my car and was wondering if anyone had used the 5v Signal from them and wired them into the Link? I would like to have the Fuel Pressure wired into the Link for safety purposes and logging. If you look at page 7 you will see the plnout for the plug http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/SPA/docs/DG60 manual issue 1.1.pdf

I havent done a boost run yet but off boost i did last night and its running great. I haven't done any timing yet though, that's mainly because my car is pretty aggressive and has a lot of torque (twin turbo ls3) with long gears. With the timing at 15* across the board its still picking up like an absolute monster and were picking up a lot of speed.

Take the HP Academy Course and do it yourself. Its not particularly hard once you have the correct information. I finished the course a month or so back and took my car out the first time today for some tuning using the base setup they tell you to start with. Within 5 mins i had the car from a bucking stuttering mess to fairly drive able. Within about 1 hour i have a fairly decent cruise fuel map with no spluttering and pretty smooth drive-ability.

64 Bit, Windows 10, Intel Onboard Graphics, USB2 fine USB3 slow pretty much all the time. Scaling at 100%

I have just done some testing on my Dell laptop which only has 2 USB ports. One is USB 3 (Blue) and the other is USB 2 (Black). I have been using the left USB 3 port as it was easier to plug in while in the car. I swapped it over to the USB 2 port on the other side and i now no longer have any lag what so ever in the software. It was really bad before,. I have found this the case many times in Windows 7 and Windows 10. A lot of devices just dont work well in a USB 3 port unless they are USB 3 themselves. Most likely a driver issue. Check your laptops and see which port you are using as it may be the same case for you too.