pvainola

Anyone have can lambda? If you do - how do you get lambda 1 to display as a gauge? I had before a innovate lc1 and it was connected to AN4 and was easy and simple to do. Now I cannot find an input to use for the can lamda. Help is appreciated. 

Update: 
For what it's worth there is an o-ring in the VTC gear valve cover plate and sure enough the oring was damaged.  I can only assume that I messed it up during install.  I installed a new flat rubber oring, fired the car up and VTC is functioning on both sides.  
Issue:
Fixed:
 
 

I suspect it is the fuel table needs flattening in that area, the logged fuel table value in that area is bouncing between 47-70%.  Since the exhaust gas is moving through the system so slowly at low engine speeds you cant see the rich/lean cycling on the lambda.

Will this new ecu have the ability to store fuel trims and continually tune  without the need  to save the data before you switch the ECU off. The ecu on my bike does this and will have the fuel trims ready when every you plug in your lap top. The data isnt lost each time you turn off which is very handy as you don't always have the laptop at hand to do the updates.

Yeah I added this to the list a few months ago.

Would like to have more gp protection rpm limits tables. Not only rpm limit but also warnings under conditions.warning pop up on dash .

Charge temp will remove roughly 4% fuel for every 10degC increase of charge temp.  So if you have 100% in the charge temp approx table (fully biased to water temp) and your water temp was 20°C for a cold start and 90°C when warmed up then the charge temp increase of 70°C would mean 28% less fuel when warm.
On the other hand, if your charge temp approximation was fully biased to air temp (0%), and you started with an air temp of 20°C for the cold start and it raised to 50°C when warm then you only have an 12% reduction in fuel from cold to warm.

Alright over the next few days i'll put together a how to on getting Real Dash to read data off the G4+ using a Seedstudio Can-Usb adapter. This way you can tap into all the available data including lambda/Ethanol% and whatever else that the serial stream doesn't support. With help of another forum member i've stumbled my way through this and now have a working gauge setup on my android tablet. 3 days ago I had no idea where to start with this and i assume other users probably feel the same so I'll share what I learned. 
This will include how to:
-wire the adapter 
-connect it it to realdash
-write the xml file
-try to explain how to use the can calculator to make sure your conversion are properly setup 
When all this is done you can even display it on a android enabled radio
First thing to do is wire the can adapter into your Can 2 output on your B plug. I chose this route because i didn't want to buy the connector required to tap into Can 1 under the tuning port. The adapter also needs a single ground wire going to chassis "sensor ground would probably be fine too"
next you're going to want to open your CAN setup in your PC link file and select Can Module CAN2.
Mode will be User defined, but rate 1Mbits and OBD set to off.
Under Data you will see 6 available channels. Each of those channels will be set to 1 can stream on the next page. Each Stream can hold 64 bits of data. Some parameters are 16 bits and others only 8. It tells you when you select them. More on that later.
Click channel 1 and under Mode select "Transmit User Stream 1". Transmit rate is 200hz. Under CAN ID set ID to 1001 "you can put anything you want but you'll see why I did 1001 soon. Once this is done go to the streams page.
Click on Stream 1 and then "Add frame" then click on "Frame 1" and then under parameters click "add"
Look at my example photo. Lambda has a width of 16 bits "2bytes" but ethanol % only has a width of 8 bits. You can either have 4 parameters each 2bytes or 8 parameters each 1byte or a mix of both like me. Once you fill up stream 1 with 8bytes you have to click on stream 2 and add another frame and keep going till you have all the data you want. 
If you have 2 streams or 3 streams or more you have to go back to the first tab and assigns stream 2 to channel 2 and set the ID to 1002. same with stream 3... "now you know why i named the ID 1001-1002...."
NOTE: WHEN SELECTING THE PARAMETER YOU WANT BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DONT SELECT THE AN VOLT VERSION OF THAT PARAMETER FOR EXAMPLE AT1 and AT2 FOR ECT/IAT WILL OUTPUT THE SENSOR VOLTAGE AND NOT THE TEMPERATURE. 
We're done in this window. Apply and Ok out of the window. Store to ecu and save
tomorrow i'll explain how to get real dash to now read the incoming data that you just sent out in this menu.
Take a look at the screen shot of my XML file. After <Frames> you will see the beginning of the data stream. frame ID 1001 is Channel 1 aka Stream 1 from the CAN Setup menu. Notice that the parameters under frame ID 1001 in my xml file match the parameters in my can setup under stream 1-frame 1.
This is where it gets a bit tricky. Target ID means the address in realdash you are sending the data to. in other words when you create a gauge in realdash it's going to ask for a data source. You then pick from a list of channels and in order to figure out which channel is what ID you use the link here: 
https://realdash.net/manuals/targetid.php
Target id 254 is Lambda 1 under Engine/ECU Inputs and that's what we're going to use.
Next is the offset and the length. Look at the can setup. Lambda 1 has a "Start Pos" of 0 and a "width" of 16 "remember 16 is 2bytes"
Ethanol% then has a "Start Pos" of 16 and a "width" told 8 "1byte"
this makes sense because if lambda is 16bits then the next parameter has to have a start pos of 16 and if ethanol is 8bits wide then the next parameter  has to have a start pos of 24. So far so good?
Now in the XML file we don't use bits we use bytes so for Lambda the "offset" <----start pos  will be 0 and the "length" <----width will be 2
For ethanol% the "offset will be "2" and the "length" will be 1
Which means the next parameter would have a offset or 3.....
eventually you will have all the parameters on stream 1 in your xml file and then you need to tell the xml file to start looking in stream 2. you can see that where frameid 1002 starts.
After "length" you will see some parameters require a conversion in order to display properly. You can go to the help file under CAN examples and look for the conversion method and then under can setup try it out in the can calculator. This was the most confusing part for me and i don't really know how to explain it well. Maybe Adam Walmsley can help. It was trial and error for me.
Once you have the xml file built you save it to your tablet in the realdash folder and now we go to setup realdash.
Open realdash and go to your garage. open the door of the car "click on it" and then click on the gauge cluster. This will open a menu where you can add connections. Add a can/lin connection and go through the options. make sure your tablet is connected to your can adapter during this step. At the end it you will see a button for picking a custom can configuration file. navigate to the real dash folder and click on your xml file.
once that's done leave the garage and either pick a theme or make a custom page and start setting up gauges. Now you have to assign the gauges you want to use a data source. So hit edit and click on the gauge you want to use. Click inputs and navigate the list to get to the input associated with the Target ID you chose in the xml file. Use the target ID page i posted to help you navigate. 
There's some info on how to do that part in this video. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_ynfTPGEdv66t1SfTVrf1hsk6QOM3AkX/view?usp=drivesdk
I'm sure i forgot some things so if you get stuck anywhere let me know and i'll help.

can't upload any of my screen shots because of the image size so i'll update this when i reformer them 

I use a window tablet for a dash on my car and it would be nice to have some soft touch on off buttons and maybe even momentary button option to add to the screen. I control fans with the ecu and turn the water pump on with the ecu if I had a quick soft touch button I could turn things on and off with that would be very nice. It would also be nice even with a laptop we could have a diagnostic page with momentary buttons so you could quick test and make sure boost solenoid clicks of fuel pump runs and so on. Then maybe down the road something could be done with soft touch on real dash. This would clean up need for extra switches and wires a guy could even have a nitrous purge button or line lock ran with the tablet. 
Oops I see this was already posted. 

The continental Ethanol Content Sensors will read significant lower when low flow goes through the sensor. This means during a WOT run the ethanol content will read significantly lower at high load and rpm than at idle, because the flow in the return line is low. 
I attached a Log to show the problem. With more boost, I see values 20% lower at WOT than at idle.  This is a well-known problem and other ECU manufacturers have an Ethanol Clamp function for a good while.
The Ethanol content does with activated clamp function only update when the Injector Duty Cycle is below a certain level. Once the INJ Duty Cycle is higher than the threshold the ECU takes the last value read below the threshold and update Ethanol content only when InjDC goes below the threshold. So a quite simple function, but with a big need! Please implement it asap. Thank you. 
 

The Crydom DC-series SSR's work fine, I've been running my 450's off one all last year with no problems. But yes you do need a flyback diode at the pumps. ( 2x450's off one 60A ) I've a 3rd in tank pump if need be and a 100A relay sitting if and when I do need to use it
And in no way whatsoever is the little Hella relay suitable for such a purpose, even from the standpoint of coping with the current of such a pump, nevermind trying to pwm it too.
 
Haltech offer this drawing and is how I use mine with Syvecs. Although a high frequency would probably be better with a proper controller, it does seem SSR's dont really enjoy being pushed in this way. I found mine happy around 200Hz.
https://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/SSR_Power_SW_Web.pdf
 
I do use one of the Hella SSR relays for my water injection though.

and apparently, if you have upstream wideband sensors, you will need to disable them. I will post up a revised file when I complete mine
 

OK, thanks for the input Adam!

Here is a log after AP and TB calibration. Map also attached, work in progress as we need to solve this issue first before we can go back to dyno.
startti005_Log 2017-08-27 3;08;48 pm.llg
softa001.pclr