Toliski
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Posts posted by Toliski
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On 6/1/2019 at 9:28 PM, Adzn3k said:
Hi guys,
I'm have real issues getting my Idle below 1300 on my celica gt4 st205 with caldina intake manifold and throttle body.
It's a 3 pin iscv, I have it wired correctly
Pin 1 (top) = signal
Pin 2 (middle) = 12v
Pin 3 (bottom) = ground
When plugged in and tested it buzzes and even effects the idle but even with the duty set as low as 10 it will not drop the idle below 1300 when up to temp.
If I unplug it, the idle is 1300 when up to temp. I have had it on the bench and it looks like the valve naturally sits half open with no power. If the 12v and ground is connected it still sits half open, if I tap the signal to ground it closes for a split second then opens again even if the signal stays on ground so it needs to be repeatedly tapped for it to close again.
Am I right in thinking if the duty cycle was turned right up to 80%+ would this reduce the idle or am I barking up the wrong tree?
I really need to figure this out, it's not just my car either I know of 2 other guys in the same boat as me
If I remember correctly with my St205 valve the pins were, open, 12v, and close. I don't know if st215 is different but I believe the pins were the same.
The valve controls by ground the open and close pins.
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17 hours ago, EvilEvolution8 said:
sorry for the intrusion.. but is possible to set 6kHz narrow band if a wideband knock sensor installed ?
Yes it's possible
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Hello guys.
I have a question about Knock frequency filters.
If our frequency centered according to spectrogram at let's say 9.7 khz or something like that.
We must choose 10khz at software because it's closer to 9.7khz?
Or if we choose 10khz the Ecu sees only 10khz-10.99khz. At 9khz 9-9.99khz etc?
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53 minutes ago, cj said:
you need the vehicle speed too, but as long as you have this, yes you can calculate it, on a spreadsheet or with a calculator, or a script on your pc.
Can you do it in the ECU to have it displayed on a dash etc... I dont think so.
Do you know the type to calculate it?
It's a cool staff to have it at you laptop's screen and I believe it's very easy for Tech team to integrate it at Linkecu software.
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Hello guys is there any way to calculate our Litre per 100km from Inst fuel consumption?
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1 hour ago, Ducie54 said:
If your running so rich its fouling plugs. Been there before.
I will change the plugs and coils and I report back.
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7 minutes ago, Ducie54 said:
Same setup you blew the motor on racing the bike?
You have no accell enrichment
Hahaha!!!
Not exchact the same I make some changes and I don't WOT it until I will take it to a tuner.
I rebuilded again and it running fine 3 months now.
Before 3 days that weird problem start.
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25 minutes ago, cj said:
ah, you didnt say it had a misfire. that combined with the sudden start of this problem means i'd check the plugs for damage, strange wear, etc.
The last log your fuel number looks pretty good for near idle @ ~0.95 so I doubt you have rich/lean misfire happening now so check plugs, coils, HT leads, etc - whatever ignition system you have on the engine.
20 minutes ago, Ducie54 said:That last Ducie2 log is way rich. You need to get fuel closer to target of .95 I would suggest you pull the plugs out and clean them.
Also you running peak and hold injectors. Are you still using a ballast resistor?
I don't know adout the injectors, the engine running with same setup years.
I will try to change the plugs and coils one at a time to see.
I suspect the fuel pump because some times I push the throttle and it doesn't respond. That behavior start before two days suddenly. So I believe its not tune related. I have logs before let's say a week and it's running fine.
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28 minutes ago, Ducie54 said:
Also in the log at 1mim 40 your battery voltages changes a lot any idea why?
I have small alternator wheel and at low rpm i have that problem.
46 minutes ago, Ducie54 said:https://www.dropbox.com/s/yf9uxqr0106i08w/Mr2 test-2.pclr?dl=0
Increase the fuel table numbers so AFR is close to target at idle.
Idle ignition less aggressive and more fuel. I think those injectors are not very linear at small pulse widths. By lower ignition at idle you need more fuel/idle base % to keep idle speed up
Well You can see again the miss fire if you check map signal rpm voltage drop (due to rpm change) and after a sec the wideband folows. its better now beause it doesnt goes very lean but the miss exists.
I make a ride log too https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nUXEziAW0C9OdOhCEDO7dK1p0namQayk
I make a video for you you can find it at same folder at my Gdrive
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47 minutes ago, Ducie54 said:
Have a try of this. Just do cold start to hot log with no revving. Post the log and ill made some changes.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pujt0q1nn4ar2dy/Mr2 test.pclr?dl=0
Well I try it. You can see at the begining we go well for a couple of secs, At log it not very clear but after 1 minute you can see the miss fire at Rpm signal. After 3 minutes its a lot of worse and after 4 5 it bearly runs. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nUXEziAW0C9OdOhCEDO7dK1p0namQayk
Then i try with some load at second log you can see steady throttle same thing. When i left the throttle it shut down and i crank but nonthing!
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4 hours ago, cj said:
Doesnt look fuel pump related. Its actually flowing less fuel at that ~1400rpm 1% TPS range than you are at idle.
If you run that same check but at say 20% tps (so 3-4k rpm) does it show the same behaviour?
Looks to me like your fuel map isnt granular enough at idle map values (30-35kpa) and so its bouncing around a bit as it goes too high/rich -> too low/lean and cycles back and forth between the 2 states. Your idle seems ok but its at ~0.87 lambda whereas that 1% tps rpm is between 1 and 1.15 which is quite lean. try increasing the fuel table values in this region by a few points. you may need to add in a line at 30kpa as well and let it interpolate as a starting point.
The other thing that might be at play here is if your injector dead times are wrong. Are the numbers you have in there from a reliable source and/or tested? You also have no short pulse adder numbers which can help this kind of behaviour too as at ~1 ms you might be on the edge of non-linear injector flow.
you've also got launch control permanently enabled when the car is under 15kph (VA1 config). This isnt directly impacting it but its stopping closed loop lambda kicking in and probably some other things.
If none of the above help, disable ignition idle control and swap idle, lambda correction etc all back to open loop/disabled so you can rule out these systems "over-reacting" which can cause cyclic rpm issues like this.
I have Rc1000 PL-4 injectors the dead times was from RC site and they don't provide short pulse adder.
I will try to disable CL idle and I add to fuel to see how it reacts and I report back.
My guess is the FPump because of the sudden start of the problem.
The most of the Map is tuned with quick tune and it has very stable Afr before that behavior (before 2 3 days)
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Hello guys, I drive my 3s for 3 months now, I make the tuning myself to my g4+ and it's working fine.
Yesterday I have weird problem.
If you go at (0:40-0:60 and 1:26-1:38) at my log you can clearly see at steady throttle that the Afr is all over the place and the Map too.
And at another log you can see that I hit the throttle but the engine not responding for some seconds.
What do you think think guys?
Fuel pump problem?
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52 minutes ago, Omi said:
Here another log file.it has a oem 3sgte throttle body and the butterfly opens all the way when car is on and it still doesn't past the rpm.I unplugged tps and I also installed different one and still does the same thing.
I dont think that your tps cause this problem.
I have same problem with my St205 but at 4000RPM. My triggers was off but no trigger errors. If your dont have a Trigger Scope try this and see if it just revvs past the 1500RPM. But you must calibrate the triggers with the proper way.
My triggers now areTrigger 1 0 1000 2000 3000 Trigger 2 0 1000 2000 3000
0.2 1 1.6 2 0.3 1.7 3.2 4.5
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Fixed guys, my triggers was a little bit off!
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1 hour ago, Adamw said:
No voltage should not effect the locked timing. It should be rock solid. Can you do another triggerscope at idle.
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5 hours ago, Adamw said:
The ignition delay is only designed to take care of a very small amount of drift caused by delays in the electronic signals and processing (usually less than 1 deg). If you have 10 degs of drift there is some other problem. Are you using a dial back timing light? How is the timing light connected - have you removed the coil and used a temporary HT lead?
Yes my dial have a adjust wheel with 0 to 30, I set it to 0.
I add an HT lead to my Coil yes.
The only thing that I can imagine is that my alternator wheel is a little bit smaller so at idle (950rpm) I have 12.5v, at 1200 I have 13.8v.
Can that voltage difference affect the timing?
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Hello guys, today i try to set my base timing.
I cant make ignition delay to work for some reason.
I set my base timing at 10 degreed and i hit with timing light.
Because i have COP setup at my 3sgte i must to work with -354 to match the ignition timing .
Now lets adjust the delay.
I revv it up like 3000Rpm my timing now it about 0 degrees even with 0 microsecs even with 100 even with 199 ( yes i use the Enter button )
when i return to idle my timing macthes perfect with 10 degrees.
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Hello guys, I fixes my distributor issue.
I changed it with a good one from celica and Done!
New dwell VS old dwell
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5 hours ago, Adamw said:
I just found a couple of pictures of a 3sgte distributor online and it looks like the sensors inside the distributor are all one piece so cant be moved in relation to each other. I cant find any good close pictures of the two trigger wheels inside, can you confirm if the top (24teeth) and bottom wheel (1 tooth) can be moved relative to each other?
Is trig 2 connected to the G1 or G2 sensor? It might be a good idea to swap to the alternative one and then try a trigger scope to see if it is any better aligned.
The wheel it is a solid piece but it have a lot of teeth at the side and one at bottom.
I am afraid that I can't move them.
I have already order another distributor and we check in a couple of days again.
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11 minutes ago, ClintBHP said:
You have noise level breaking through your trigger arming threshold.
You have this set to 0.3v on both your signals:
At idle crank the noise floor only very slightly above the 0.2 you are seeing I would raise this to 0.5 at 0rpm for both triggers
On Idle the noise floor maxes out at 0.5 which is above the noise level and may been seen as a trigger I would set the arming threshold to 1 at 1000rpm
As mentioned about the trigger points are near overlapping need to get this much more in the center.
How can I get that signal at the right point?
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1 hour ago, Adamw said:
I can't be sure this is your problem but my feeling is your trigger 1 & 2 edges are a little too close for comfort, it could potentially result in clashing edges which will shift the timing by one tooth. It appears closer at cranking speed than idle too.
Normally the Toyota trig 2 is nicely centered between the trig 1 tooth but yours is not for some reason. I don't know what the distributor looks like inside but is there a way to move the sensors relative to each other?
Thanks Adam for your answer.
My English isn't very good.
Your suggestion is that or I must to check my distributor or I must to change it?
If you are remember my dwell time is all over the place.
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14 minutes ago, iecku.tavea racing said:
Please attach the pclr!
I just edit my post and add my map too.
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17 hours ago, cj said:
Could be a few things.
1) if your trigger wheel is Cam mounted (replaces the distributor) it could be slop in the cam belt.
2) it could be that your crank sensor is wired incorrectly (reversed polarity?) and is giving an unstable signal
3) it could be that your trigger signal is picking up noise from the engine bay and isnt providing a stable signal
4) if your timing light allows for advance correction and you either bump this dial while working or its too low an RPM for it to work correctly (ie while cranking). Set this to 0 advance if your light has it.
Can you please post a trigger scope capture while cranking (and at idle if you can start it), and a log of it running at idle if it will currently run+idle.
I still using the distributor.
The engine run and revving with out any problems except some miss fires at idle.
No corrections at timing light.
I always have that problem, before couple of days I open and rebuild my distributor and I gapped the magnets at Toyota specs (I don't replace the magnets only the sealing oring and the bearing) but don't change anything.
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St205 with an st215 caldina idle control valve issue
in G4+
Posted
Even at Ecu pinout has RSO (iacv open) RSC (iacv close) and center 12v. The valves have the same working style even if they were different I can confirm that.