Dean

Thank you for the quick response. Am I also correct in thinking that the fuel level sensor through the PDM needs an external pull-up resistor like with the ECU?

Hi everyone, I might have a job soon that will be using Razor PDMs. I've done a handful of Hardwire PDMs but this is my first Razor. Could someone put eyes on my plan to let me know if I'm going in the right direction? RB25 Turbo, Link Fury G4X, Link 8 button keypad, AIM Dash. Cheers!

Thanks for that. Good to know. The data logger in the PDM is only 20hz so I couldn't really see in that much detail!

Hi! Not an important issue, but I’m interested to understand. Fury G4X I’ve done a few Link ECU’s with a Hardwire PDM, this is the first one with this issue. The PDM has an ‘instant’ fuse feature if you choose to use it on important outputs. When I use the ‘normal’ fuse setting, it behaves normally and pulls about 0.16A. If I use the instant fuse, the output trips straight away, even with the fuse setting at 10-15A. Is the ECU expected to pull quite a bit of current for a very very short amount of time? Cheers!

Here's a log from the first session today, and the current tune. I asked him to keep the logger on so hopefully you can see where the misfire is. (3m4s, 3m7s, 3m8s are good examples) 2 Items

What more should I log at the moment? PC log won't be possible as the next event is a paid passenger ride weekend. I'll disable traction control completely. It should be off all the time, but I'll double check. I just realised the settings are from my car, which uses a 12 position knob, this car doesn't have one installed..... The issue happens straight out of the gate at 30deg fuel temp, but I'll keep an eye on the issue you noticed. Fuel temp looks to reach max 50deg by the end of the day (ethanol sensor temp)

Thanks for spotting the knock levels, they’ve usually been pretty tame, so I’m not sure why they’re so high now. Next event is this weekend, so I’ll try to get more data.

Hello! I'm helping a friend out, it's a car I wired a couple of years ago. 1.5JZ, G4+ Fury, R35 coils, E85, 500kw+ at the wheels. The car was initially tuned with Yaris coils, and it was fine for a while, but the coilpacks started to "die" more often than not, so we changed to R35 coils. It was tuned again and all was good. It has a new engine now and has developed a misfire around 5000rpm. It'll rev out with partial load. Can anyone help with any ECU setting ideas before we look mechanical? ie. dwell settings. It's a bit hard to see what's happening in the logs, but it's often at full throttle between 4-6k rpm. Log and tune: 2 Items My own car (which is an identical setup) had a similar issue that was resolved with upgraded valve springs as it seemed like the valves were pushing open.

You should always ground the MAP sensor to the ECU “sensor ground”, right? So the sensor has a stable 0V and 5V reference, directly in the ECU.

You can switch the DI with a 12V input. i have the billet LED buttons controlling 4 DIs on my ecu. Log, Boost, Traction, Launch.

It was around 250kph it maxed out as you can see by the spikes in rear wheel speed. I didn't log the frequency sorry. I actually found a log from my friends 370Z, different ABS speed sensors, but I logged the DI input on his. It gets up to 1550hz and the signal is still ok.

I used the standard S15 ABS sensors (similar to R34?) with a Fury G4+ and it worked well. I think the only issue I had was when I changed to the diff snout speed sensor, which created a higher frequency and topped out around 200kph. Ill find the exact frequencies I was reading, because the ecu can handle more than 500hz

Judging by what they told you, it looks like they were telling you the ECU can’t ‘power’ a 12V fan, which is true. It just supplies a signal to trigger the relay.

Am I reading correctly that you have the sensor ground going to the injectors? They should only have a switched 12v and the signal to ECU, right?

I had to send the dash back to AIM. It was a quick fix but something only they could do. It's working again now. Problem solved.