Dean

Thank you for the quick response. Am I also correct in thinking that the fuel level sensor through the PDM needs an external pull-up resistor like with the ECU?

Hi everyone, I might have a job soon that will be using Razor PDMs. I've done a handful of Hardwire PDMs but this is my first Razor. Could someone put eyes on my plan to let me know if I'm going in the right direction? RB25 Turbo, Link Fury G4X, Link 8 button keypad, AIM Dash. Cheers!

Thanks for that. Good to know. The data logger in the PDM is only 20hz so I couldn't really see in that much detail!

Hi! Not an important issue, but I’m interested to understand. Fury G4X I’ve done a few Link ECU’s with a Hardwire PDM, this is the first one with this issue. The PDM has an ‘instant’ fuse feature if you choose to use it on important outputs. When I use the ‘normal’ fuse setting, it behaves normally and pulls about 0.16A. If I use the instant fuse, the output trips straight away, even with the fuse setting at 10-15A. Is the ECU expected to pull quite a bit of current for a very very short amount of time? Cheers!

Here's a log from the first session today, and the current tune. I asked him to keep the logger on so hopefully you can see where the misfire is. (3m4s, 3m7s, 3m8s are good examples) 2 Items

What more should I log at the moment? PC log won't be possible as the next event is a paid passenger ride weekend. I'll disable traction control completely. It should be off all the time, but I'll double check. I just realised the settings are from my car, which uses a 12 position knob, this car doesn't have one installed..... The issue happens straight out of the gate at 30deg fuel temp, but I'll keep an eye on the issue you noticed. Fuel temp looks to reach max 50deg by the end of the day (ethanol sensor temp)

Thanks for spotting the knock levels, they’ve usually been pretty tame, so I’m not sure why they’re so high now. Next event is this weekend, so I’ll try to get more data.

Hello! I'm helping a friend out, it's a car I wired a couple of years ago. 1.5JZ, G4+ Fury, R35 coils, E85, 500kw+ at the wheels. The car was initially tuned with Yaris coils, and it was fine for a while, but the coilpacks started to "die" more often than not, so we changed to R35 coils. It was tuned again and all was good. It has a new engine now and has developed a misfire around 5000rpm. It'll rev out with partial load. Can anyone help with any ECU setting ideas before we look mechanical? ie. dwell settings. It's a bit hard to see what's happening in the logs, but it's often at full throttle between 4-6k rpm. Log and tune: 2 Items My own car (which is an identical setup) had a similar issue that was resolved with upgraded valve springs as it seemed like the valves were pushing open.

You should always ground the MAP sensor to the ECU “sensor ground”, right? So the sensor has a stable 0V and 5V reference, directly in the ECU.

You can switch the DI with a 12V input. i have the billet LED buttons controlling 4 DIs on my ecu. Log, Boost, Traction, Launch.

It was around 250kph it maxed out as you can see by the spikes in rear wheel speed. I didn't log the frequency sorry. I actually found a log from my friends 370Z, different ABS speed sensors, but I logged the DI input on his. It gets up to 1550hz and the signal is still ok.

I used the standard S15 ABS sensors (similar to R34?) with a Fury G4+ and it worked well. I think the only issue I had was when I changed to the diff snout speed sensor, which created a higher frequency and topped out around 200kph. Ill find the exact frequencies I was reading, because the ecu can handle more than 500hz

Judging by what they told you, it looks like they were telling you the ECU can’t ‘power’ a 12V fan, which is true. It just supplies a signal to trigger the relay.

Am I reading correctly that you have the sensor ground going to the injectors? They should only have a switched 12v and the signal to ECU, right?

I had to send the dash back to AIM. It was a quick fix but something only they could do. It's working again now. Problem solved.

Yep, I’ve tried that. Single page, no other changes to the settings. I’ve also deleted all of my configs (including other dashes) in case it was getting confused.

Hello! I'm in the middle of bench testing the dash, keypad, PDM etc., and I'm having an issue with the dash configuration. NB: Software is up to date (3.54.01), and dash firmware is up to date (2.40.40). My initial configuration was transmitted as expected, but since then, if I change the configuration, I get the "successful transmit" popup, but the layout doesn't change. I've tried deleting the software, re-installing and designing a new config file, but the current dash config remains. I've tried a different computer and re-installed the software multiple times. I can't receive the config from the dash. It says "received successfully", but nothing appears. I've emailed AIM, but haven't received a response yet, and it's starting to hold me up. I've used other AIM dashes on my computers without an issue. Is there something I can try? Even a complete reboot of the dash? Thank you!

Thanks for the quick response.

Hi everyone, Starting work on a 1UZ engine loom at the moment. I'm trying to reduce any bulk in the loom and also be efficient with the pin count on the firewall plug. Ultimately I'd like to use a 3-core shielded cable for the two cam sensors, splitting out into short lengths close to the sensors. (Cam 1, Cam 2, shared sensGND). Is this acceptable? or is 4 core required? (Cam 1, Cam 2, sensGND 1, sensGND). I'd also like to do the same with the two knock sensors. I would've originally done it with multiple 2-core cables, but that costs more and adds weight/bulk. Cheers!

Link FuryG4X The wiring instructions say to use a filtered 12v from the ecu. Do I use the regulated 8V or is ignition 12V ok? Cheers

I'm going to have a little stab just because I want to keep learning myself. I want to see if I can get it before Adam solves it. haha The TPS calibration looks funny. When the throttle is closed it's showing Main 4.57V, Sub 4.60V. But your calibration for closed is Main 0.44V, Sub 4.99V. I'm guessing that's just because the setup failed though.

You only need to use 5v and a pull up resistor when using a temp sensor through one of the normal AN inputs.

2 wire temp sensors connect directly to AN Temp and Sensor ground, there’s no 5v needed. You’ll then need to select the calibration of the sensor.

Would the throttle oscillate too much then? ie. 0 throttle will drop the RPM quickly, then full throttle will increase the revs again etc. etc. I've had good results with this setup for my e throttle. The throttle starts to close as I reach redline, then it holds steady even if the pedal is flat to the floor. I can keep the wheels spinning even though the TP says 40% and boost is down to 11psi. If the rpm start to drop, the throttle starts to open more. .

You can increase the RPM Zero Timeout to its maximum (225 seconds) and leave the ignition on after stopping the engine too. But as mentioned above, it's a little useless unless running an electric water pump.