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CMSport

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Everything posted by CMSport

  1. This was it! Fool on me for thinking that things would be the same on the new ECU and not checking the offset first with the light... running now and happy as, thanks mate
  2. Thanks for that - sorry I typed my last reply in a bit of a rush so wasn't completely coherent. I have only attempted to run the 2NZ trigger setup, as this is what works on the engines I've tuned using the G4+. This is what was being used when I recorded the log file but when I uploaded the tune file in my first post I must have grabbed the wrong file and one that I had saved to investigate the new K3 trigger. You're correct, the "K3-VE" uses the 36-2-2-2 (same as 3SZ-VE) which was produced from '05 onward whereas the older "K3-VE2" and "K3-VET" solely use the 36-2 and these were produced from '98 through to '05. Part of my curiosity in trying this new trigger setup option was to know which trigger you have assigned to it exactly, which you've just answered for me OK so I assumed that there would be no reason for the trigger offset to be different in the G4X from the G4+ tune file. Perhaps that's what's not working for me. I'll try again shortly with it offset 360deg. I've set up enough of them on the G4+ now to know that if you set the offset to 144 that the timing is bang on every time. Cheers Tim
  3. sorry that's a mistake in the file uploaded. They are both running on a K3 but the 2NZ trigger is identical to K3 so no discrepancy there. I was however interested to test whether the K3 trigger file setup was done in a way that meant I could leave the sync numbers at zero and it would work or if I would end up with the same numbers as I use normally with the 2NZ file but given that I can't even get it running on the original 2NZ setup, that's still only a thought experiment.
  4. Hey guys I've just setup a known working tune file on a G4X Monsoon that I have previously been using in a race car on a G4+ Monsoon ECU and it won't fire. I made a new wiring loom for this ECU also, identical to the previous loom so to check that it's not my wiring at fault I tried the new wire harness with the old ECU and it worked perfectly, as usual. I also tried my old wire harness with the new ECU and wouldn't fire so the issue must be in the setup/ECU. I have been through the program multiple times now and I can't spot my mistake. I'm hoping that there's some new trick with the G4X that I'm unaware of that someone might be able to point out. I've attached both the G4+ and G4X tune files and a log of cranking on the G4X Cheers Tim 2NZFE turbo file G4X.pclx 2NZFE turbo file G4+.pclr PC Datalog - 2022-08-10 2;56;17 pm.llgx
  5. Hey guys I've done a bit of a search on this but not found any answers - I have a situation with a Monsoon G4+ where the overrun fuel cut won't turn off. I have tried a bunch of combinations of setting it to "off" then storing, switching off and on, unplugging the ECU, setting the deactivation table to 7000rpm everywhere etc etc but it continues to go into overrun above 2000rpm and then start firing the injectors again below that. Is there something obvious that I'm missing here? was there a firmware update that dealt with this issue? pic of the ECU version/specs attached TPS is calibrated and working as normal... Help appreciated! Cheers Tim
  6. ahh ok hadn't stumbled across that one, thanks. The OEM wiring just shows +ve from the same circuit as injector and coil feed, -ve to block and control wire from ECU so I've connected it up the same way. Anyway, this morning I changed the max clamp to 90 and now idle control works like a dream
  7. just to be clear, this is exactly the solenoid I'm using... rotary ISC
  8. have tested this as you suggested and can loudly hear the solenoid clicking so definitely not the wiring. I plugged the factory ECU back in (running a patch harness so easy to swap between) and idle controls perfectly normal on that ECU then back on the link I get the same [lack of] response. I can only think that there's something strange in my settings. I had a look at a few other base maps and noticed that the only major difference is the max clamp setting - mine is set at 2% whereas some others are as much as 150%... does this strike you as something wrong? I will have to wait until morning to try again but would be grateful if you can give me a pointer on this one so I can sleep easy haha cheers Tim
  9. ok so an addition to this that I probably should have stated earlier is that I had first assumed that the idle valve is a solenoid (as it has a 3 pin connector) so I initially wired it to aux 2 and it idled very low (image of log as log file is too big to upload) and nothing that I could do brought it up. Given that there is a marked difference in idle response between the two setups I think this proves that both the wiring and valve are both OK.. ?
  10. Hey guys this might be a total noob question as I can't seem to find anyone else asking it but I'm having some trouble setting up a Toyota/Daihatsu idle stepper motor on a Monsoon G4+ I have it setup on aux 6 and have tried a wide range of frequencies and gain settings with absolutely no change at all in response. It will start up fine and idle at 1800 to 2000rpm but won't come down once warm. I've tried using closed and open loop with no success. Can someone please suggest what to look at in my settings? pclr and log file attached Any help much appreciated! Tim G4+ Monsoon K3VET Modelled.pclr 2nd idle control to aux 6 no control but high.llg
  11. CMSport

    G4x wideband

    That's great, thanks Adamw! That adds a whole lot more value to the lower spec range
  12. CMSport

    G4x wideband

    Hey guys I hope I'm not hijacking the thread but, on this note of sending lambda signal over CAN bus, is this a possibility with the ATOM X too? I'm just in the midst of prioritizing inputs with a customer and if we could send lambda over the CAN that will free us up to use a spare analogue input for fuel pressure. Also, if this is the case, how many CAN inputs can it handle?
  13. Great info as always, thanks mate!
  14. Hey guys I am thinking about/hoping to setup a gearbox oil temp sensor using a spare 5V NTC temp sender that I have, using the last GP Temp analogue input and pull up resistor, to my Monsoon ECU but I see that there is no option in the pull down list to select NTC sensor calibration...? I'm first wondering if this is because what I'm trying to do is not possible, can someone please clarify? second, if it is possible, can some kind person please help me with how to take a temperature-resistance table (that I have in my workshop manual) and convert it to a temperature-voltage table that I can plug into the calibration in the Link? :) Many thanks! Tim
  15. CMSport

    knock amp for ECU

    yes I gather as much... but still my question is what product do we use for permanently wired knock amp/control??
  16. CMSport

    knock amp for ECU

    Hi Adam, thanks for your response... I'm guessing you took this info from below my avatar.. which I forgot was there! I did once upon a time own this ECU but am actually a Link dealer and currently running a Monsoon in my own car but lack knowledge of what the best solution is to run for ECU's with knock windowing but no direct input capability. Or am I just a little bit confused? Cheers Tim
  17. CMSport

    knock amp for ECU

    Hey guys, can someone please recommend a suitable knock amp to run as a hard-wired input to the ECU? I have a G4 knockblock and knocklink, both of which are useful tools, neither of which seem to be able to be used as a permanent interface to the G4+ I seem to recall a wire-in type knockblock but have not actually seen it advertised for sale, therefore assume that there is a suitable alternative? Cheers Tim
  18. thanks for the response, Adam. I don't have an ISC - just an old style thermo-mechanical bypass - but would be happy with group N style setup on cyclic idle. I do understand the impact on boosted brakes with anti-lag but to what extent can I keep with the system connected? if I see zero pressure at the intake is this going to cause a rock solid pedal? or will it be the same as if I'd disconnected the booster vacuum signal? I'm not going to be throwing a whole bunch of intake air at it so I'd be surprised if it made any boost at all with the throttle closed...?
  19. Hey all... apologies if this has been covered already but I've had a search around and not found anything strictly relevant I have a setup with a relatively small turbo used for circuit racing but still suffer a bit of lag through apex on slow circuits. I'm not overly keen on the idea of a full AL system making huge amounts of boost off throttle, mostly from the point of view of preserving my turbo (read as budget). I gather it's easy enough to fit a DI switch and setup the basic AL function in the software but am I wasting my time faffing with this if I don't have any additional air being fed in? In addition to this, is there a simple way that I can use EGT's to limit ign retard or turn ALS off altogether if things get dangerously hot? If I were able to achieve 0bar or even slightly negative pressure on overrun then I'd be happy with that but if it seems very unlikely that this is achievable then I'll focus my attention elsewhere Cheers Tim
  20. hey guys excuse me for jump starting an old thread but I'm curious as to the IGN retard mode and value suggested above as it doesn't seem to agree with the logic in my head (which is usually the incorrect part!) my understanding was that the safest starting point was to set the IGN retard mode to 'degrees' and set the value to 0* so that there is no antilag effect as such, then start introducing retard, perhaps in 5* increments to begin with, until either temps reach a safe limit or the boost target is met. the above suggested method of jumping straight to an absolute value of 20* seems like [potentially] an awful lot of timing retard if say the tuned map at the chosen RPM is 40* to begin with any help for my brain here would be greatly appreciated Cheers Tim
  21. Thanks I'll give that a go in a few mins!
  22. Hey guys I'm feeling a little desperate... I've just been working on a car with a Monsoon ECU and had the battery disconnected and loom unplugged. Everything was running fine when I drove it in and nothing fundamental was changed only wired in two standalone gauges. When I plugged the ECU back in the engine cranks but won't fire. This is the second time this has happened. The first time I did nothing in particular to resolve the issue and it started again and ran faultlessly for a month or so. Am supposed to be racing tomorrow!! Hence the desperation Any help at all would be much appreciated! I'll trailer the car to the track if it won't start in the morning and keep trying
  23. thanks Adam... yes it's running flex fuel and I am in the process of converting the map to modeled but it's the way it's been setup so is what I've got to deal with for now I only asked about the effect of traditional mode with interpolation as it's currently running two maps in traditional mode in this manner therefore, if it meant that it wasn't actually ever looking for the second map because this function didn't actually work, then I would deactivate it. but I'll leave it as is for the time being
  24. one further kind of related question - I see that in the fuel setup help file it says that interpolate between can only be used for modeled or modeled multi-fuel. what will happen if traditional mode is used and interpolate between is selected?
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