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Everything posted by BulletFactory

  1. Hi Adam, thanks for the reply I had my 3uzfe V8 mapped by the same company and he did my limiter the same where by it was cutting for too long, which for a drifting application (which is what this car is used for) is not ideal as it will cut too much power away and thus lose wheel speed. I think he maps it safely, which isn't a bad thing, but just needs that tweeking for the application of the car. So after that first limiter cut, the throttle is held at 99% for a couple of seconds, he then comes off throttle, then goes back to 100% TPS at 1:42.358 seconds which is achieved, but the rpm is then stuck at around 3000-3500rpm and this is when the missfire type scenario occurs and you can hear and feel it in the car, its almost like its stuck on a limiter. Is there any type of protection that is still active which means after the first time he hits the rpm limiter, it then inhibits being able to climb back up the rev range for example? On the screenshot i attached you can see the point where TPS is back to 100% but the RPM is just stuck at around 3111rpm. So for example is it the knock global counter which now sits at 3 after that first limiter cut, is that an inhibit for example or is there something else still active which restricts RPM range Many thanks
  2. Hi Adam, I'm the OP friend, trying to help him resolve the issue. I've found a part of the log which is more accurate to look at. Its a pull where its 99% throttle, hits limiter at just over 7300 rpm, but the RPM drops to around 5000rpm due to the missfire even though the TPS is still showing 99%, so he still has his foot in. On the picture i attached, its picking up knock at this point, well CYL 1, 2, 3 all hit a counter for knock (although i'm not actually sure what this means, maybe just picking up knock from the missfire?) but there is a good 2 seconds of 100% throttle whilst only being able to reach 5000rpm after hitting the limiter (i would think its maybe limiter cut but it seems an excessive amount of time for that) . Hopefully this helps. I'm not a tuner by any means, more trying to learn haha
  3. Many thanks for all the replies! Just one last quick question, how do i setup logging so i can see it live on a graph like CJ said so i can see TP main and APS main voltages? I've managed to set it up so i can take a log, then have to open it and can view it afterwards, is there any way i can log it on a window so i can view it live, then obviously i can make changes to the PIDs and see the changes taking effect? I tweaked the PIDs and my throttle target table last night, i started by doing the auto calibration on the APS and TPS, then played with the PIDs until the APS main and TPS main looked more even when put on a graph together, and also tweaked my throttle target table so my AFR was around 15AFR on hot idle, but didn't get the chance to take the car out to test as obviously all my APS changes effect my fuel table too. I'm going to get my friend to sit passenger and take some logs and post them up this weekend. At least i have a basic understanding of what i can change if i do get any throttle issues on my drift day on monday. I will also try setting my throttle settings to the same as Adam posted in that image and take a log of that too. I think as long as i can tune it so my throttle target errors don't build up, i should be okay for monday, but i'm going to find a different tuner and get my map looked at afterwards anyway. I've also set my oil pressure engine protection settings to similar as what is in the GP LIMIT description in the help settings, and populated the table so that the engine will shut off at say 5000rpm if oil pressure drops below 10psi etc Thankyou for all the help and advice, makes buying a Link ecu worthwhile when i get support like this! Kind regards
  4. So my initial throttle fault was before i got the vehicle mapped and it was when i was initially wiring everything up and getting things to work before mapping. I had my TPS sub and main to different inputs, and my AP sub and main to different inputs, but whenever i tried the auto calibration of both it would always fail on the TPS calibration when comparing sub and mains, i played around with the PIDS for around 4 hours to try get it to calibrate but it wouldn't, so i wired both inputs into just the one sensor on the throttle body sensor and it calibrated straight away, so i left it this way as i presumed i had a faulty sub or main sensor in the throttle body. When my throttle faulted it left me stranded in the middle of the track, so i quickly reset the ecu with ignition and it cleared the fault, but then it happened again next run aswell, and it always did this in 3rd gear under heavier load at lower rpm, if i changed to second and stuck it higher in the rev range, say 5000+rpm, it would be fine. I only presumed it was a throttle fault as i had a throttle fault code show up and e throttle relay shut down, but due to my panic i didn't look into the code (wishing i would have checked the codes and just red flagged the session now) but it definitely came up with a throttle fault aswell as the e throttle relay shut down as i saw it in the little fault preview bar at the top of my tablet but i didnt register what fault code it stored (running one as a dashboard) I guess that throttle target error accumilator might make sense, as it would build up errors until 100 where it would shut down. I will try inputting the 1uz basemap throttle PIDS and maybe go for another run and take another log and see if the target errors stop accumilating. I would also like to try putting my sub and mains back to separate inputs and try re-calibrating, i'm just worried it will completely mess the map up all together seems as my main tables seem to be tuned to APS Either way i will try the 1uz basemap PIDS tonight and take it for a run and take a data log. With the throttle PIDS, i take it higher numbers mean more aggression to reach target if that makes sense? So if i increase the propertional gain to a higher number, this will effectively make the throttle react quicker to the target its trying to achieve? I will try review the data and see if i can see the throttle accumilator faults build up and if the 1uz basemap PIDS has helped, although i can't see to be able to navigate the data log very well at the moment but i will try learn how to use it. I've also just remembered that i started taking a data log from my tablet on one of my drift runs, and the throttle didn't fault or shut down, but the throttle was definitely fluctuating, you can physically hear it in my gopro footage too, so i will find this data log and upload it Sorry for the essays and questions, i really appreciate all the help and advice! Regards
  5. So i managed to find factory 3uz oil pressure figures: At operating temperature it should be 43-85psi at 3000rpm. So it appears i have a possible oil restriction issue causing high oil pressure. I have remote oil filter housing, and oil cooler using AN12 lines and OEM Toyota oil filter. The engine is standard with factory oil pump etc. And seems as both gauges read the same high oil pressure, i would be fairly certain that i do actually have high oil pressure for whatever reason. Do you think the vvti oscillation could cause what would feel like a throttle fluctuation? Because when i was drifting at higher load (3rd gear around 3500rpm) it felt like the throttle was juddering, and then if i didn't change my throttle input and kept trying to drift under that condition, the ecu would eventually shut down the e throttle relay, i wish i could have got a data log of this but i can't get it to replicate on the public roads. Regards
  6. Hi Adam, I'm running factory oil viscosity, and i have 2 oil pressure sensors, one for the link and one for a gauge, and on full throttle i usually show around 7bar / 100psi of pressure when hot on my gauge. I know early 1uz factory oil pressure should be around 85psi when hot, so figured that 100-110psi might be standard for the later 3uz, but cannot find factory pressure specifications to confirm this. So you think my VVT oscillation is being caused by excessive oil pressure? I've put around 500 road miles and gave the engine some good abuse at my last drift day and everything seemed okay other than my throttle fault. I will double check my APS wiring tonight. I think after my drift day monday i'm going to have to have a serious re-think about a few things, one being my tuner, and two investing more into better sensors and more of them, including speed, fuel and oil pressure Regards
  7. Hi CJ I don't feel confident enough with being able to change the map like that as tuning isn't my strong point, i've literally tried to learn what i can in the space of a couple of weeks to try understand whats going wrong. I understand about changing the fuel map to TPS instead of APS, but don't feel confident enough doing it myself, although i might sit down one night this week and try get my head around it and see if i can work it out. I've saved all my previous maps including the one from the tuner so i can always resort back anyway. Regarding VVTI table, would you say it's "safe" as it is, with it jumping to 30degrees at 20% APS? All i'm hoping for is that the map is currently safe and usable for my drift day, as i've been waiting a long time to do this day, and i guess a bonus is that i'm still naturally aspirated so running a tad richer shouldn't have too much of an impact. I will change my oil pressure failsafe so it works, and after my drift day i'm re-doing my fuel system anyway so will have fuel pressure monitored too. When you say about APS with both sub and main, that is what i'm current running, the sub and main is wired into separate inputs, it's only my TPS that is wired into one input as one of my sensors in my throttle is faulty and until a decent second hand throttle body comes up for sale there isn't much i can do about it as Toyota will want around £600 for a new throttle body! Thanks for your help and support! Regards
  8. Hi CJ Wow that's alot of information to take in and try and get my head around! I took my car for tuning and i've left everything as is until i had this throttle fault which i tried to rectify myself, i had to else i'd lose the whole day! My throttle Main and Sub are connected to one track as i was having issues trying to run my throttle calibration, i bridged them together and it worked fine, and was told that it should be fine like this? Trying to source another throttle body for this engine in the UK isn't easy and it's super expensive, so tried to make do. Regarding VVTI targets, i will have to talk to my tuner, who i seem to have lost some faith with after reading your comment. My problem is, is that i have a drift day on Monday and my tuner is now on holiday for 2 weeks.. For failsafes, i planned to wire in fuel pressure but the fittings i got sent were wrong and i ran out of time before tuning so had to do without it. Oil pressure is actually wired in and reads, and i asked for the oil pressure to be set as a failsafe, but clearly he has not done this correctly. I have attached 2 driving data logs, i tried to squeeze in as much different throttle, gear, driving conditions as i could, and i'm still not getting any throttle faults and it does feel better, one thing i have noticed is that i'm running ever so slightly richer now, hovering around the low 14's, almost into 13AFR on cruising throttle, which backs up what you said about my throttle and fuel tables, and obviously me playing with the throttle table has now effected my fueling and effectively my whole map! I really appreciate the feedback and help on this guys, i've been waiting to drift this car for years and now my first big drift day is coming up i'm not feeling so confident! Regards David driving log.llg
  9. Hi there I have some throttle map issues i would like looking an by an expert to see if they look correct. My car got mapped around 3 months ago, its a 3uzfe 4.3L Lexus V8 on Link G4+ extreme using factory lexus e-throttle controlled by the Link. I've never been entirely happy with happy the throttle was mapped as for example, if i wanted to go wide open throttle, i never felt like the pedal needed to go past 75% as it already felt like wide open throttle, but i persevered and learned to use it that way. 3 days ago i had my first drift day, and i kept getting throttle faults and my e throttle relay would shut down all together, unfortunately being stranded in the middle of the track i didn't save / memorise the codes, and didn't take a data log either! I took my car back to my tuner yesterday and asked him to have a look through my throttle map as i presumed something was wrong, he made a few changes and made it 100times worse, so i've sort of lost my faith with his throttle mapping capabilities.. So, long story short, i took the car away, got my laptop out, went down a long country lane and played with my PIDS and throttle map tables until i felt like i had the pedal i should have, and so far no faults either which is good The first map i've attached is my tuners throttle map (MGT map, agg throttle) , the second is my own throttle map (MGT map, self tuned throttle target good) Can someone look at the 10% AP and 20%AP range and tell me if what hes done is stupid or am i not reading it correctly.. It progressively opens the actually throttle body as RPM increases, but not as AP position increases... basically meaning the car would accelerate without actually adding any more throttle pedal position?! that seems daft.. so the second map is my own attempt at a throttle target table and the pedal feels how you would expect when driving a car Many thanks for looking, any feedback would be great! MGT map, agg throttle.pclr MGT map, self tuned throttle target good.pclr
  10. All sorted Simon, thankyou! Re-calibrated my APS and TPS and it idles perfectly now. My original TPS main was reading 5% on idle, now it's 1.2% which makes sense as it would have been holding the throttle open with the original calibration Another question for you. I want to use my oem fuel level sender to display fuel % on my link tablet dash. If i use an temp 3 with 1k pullup resistor enabled, would this be sufficient to display fuel level if worked out a cal table for it? I believe my oem sender scale is 4ohms to 120ohms Regards
  11. Thanks for the reply Simon Yes i'm monitoring everything through F12 runtime values window. I notice that on idle control it's requesting speed also, and the parameter below that "idle target?" if i remember always states -500 ish rpm and is highlighted red, but i will confirm and check this tomorrow when i'm back with the car. I figured it may be down to e throttle calibration as ive had alot of issues with getting it set up so ive been hesistant since to play around with it. I know the vvt oil control states "on" for both solenoids, but i didn't know if the ecu was actually reading vvt position from the two intake cam sensors as the vvt position just states "off" in the runtime values. i was hoping to be able to see live vvt positions just to make sure the ecu can read cam position and confirm my wiring is correct, but if you can see that it is then i'm happy with that. I shall have a play with the e throttle tomorrow and see if i can figure it out Thanks
  12. I have installed and calibrated my 1.15 link map sensor and it runs much better now, just waiting for my Innovate widebands to get here. there are two things im hoping you can help me with.. Idle control, i have changed it to E throttle closed loop idle control as i am using e throttle, but my idle is very high and sits at 1800 rpm no matter what the temperature, do you have any basic figures i can use to tune this so it doesn't idle so high. Also, VVT position, whilst running if i look at runtime values both VVT positions are just displayed as "OFF". Would this be due to my wiring or is this something that requires setting up? My oil control solenoids register as "ON" I have attached my basemap and a log whilst running Thanks high idle log.llg 3UZ COMPLETE MAP.pclr For reference with my VVT position sensors: VVT1+ to DI4 VVT1- to Shield Ground VVT2 + to DI3 VVT2- to Shield Ground Is this correct? Thankyou
  13. I have ordered the 1.15 bar link map sensor so will get that fitted this week. Does the 1uz vvti basemap already have calibration for the map sensor? Also Adam, do you think 2 AEM X series wideband sensors is ideal for V8 application in terms of tuning each bank, or will just one wideband on one bank be sufficiant? Thanks
  14. As an addition to this, i've decided to order my map and widebands today and not run it any longer until they are fitted. What Link map sensor should i go for, for naturally aspirated tuning? 2 bar? Will 2 AEM widebands be okay? One for each bank. Running 2 link can lambdas will get expensive, so looking at alternative kits now. Thanks
  15. Hi all I have my 3uzfe running off the 1uz vvti basemap on my link G4+ xtreme but its running pretty rich at the moment. I'm going to be converting to MAP and wideband before i take it to my tuner, but for now i am just running MAF and narrowband. Is there anything i can do to lean it out abit? I just want to be able to run in up to temperature and make sure everythings okay before i take it to the dyno as its quite a long drive to get there and don't want to have any problems, but its super smokey and rich. I've uploaded my basemap with a log of it running for around 30 seconds. I will be doing MAP conversion and Link can lambda in the next month. Many thanks Rich running map.llg Rich running map 3uz.pclr
  16. Hi all I have a 3uzfe running with a G4+ xtreme. I was originally going to run narrowband lambda and maf (factory setup) just for reliable n/a power until i supercharge later on down the line. I'm going to be taking my car to my tuner in the next month or so and figured i may aswell convert to wideband for easier and better tuning for them. Is it just a case of getting 2 bosch LSU 4.9 wideband sensors, one for each bank. I already have my narrowbands wired up so should just be plug and play with wideband sensors i guess? And are those bosch sensors the ones to go for? Any recommendations? Also, i'm running maf at the moment, would converting to map be a better option for n/a tuning, would it be more accurate? I need to go map in the future for charging, so again, may aswell do it now Thanks
  17. UPDATE I now have a working throttle when set to ON mode Just to test, i took the TP main and AP main, and split them into my analog inputs respectively, so then i have the sub and mains reading exactly the same throughout their travel. I set my PIDS up to stop chatter (decreased proportional gain slightly) and now i can set to ON mode and have zero faults. I ran the engine and i now have a working throttle. It will not longer idle itself now, so i'm not sure whether this is because i have my closed voltages as such that the throttle valve is now too closed for idle, or whether this is something that can be tuned some other way? SAFETY QUESTION: I presume sub and main are a sort of failsafe, so if there is any difference between them it will shut the throttle down to a closed state, will i be okay leaving my wiring as mentioned previous with no actual sub signal? If a fault should ever develop then i would imagine that it will still failsafe to a closed position? I have attached a log with these changes made, one thing i notice on the log is that at around 10% accelerator input, the throttle body valve seems to click and flatline, and then continue with smooth increase, which is where i'm thinking it's ON resting position should be? I tried to capture this in the log itself ON mode working throttle.llg 3UZ WORKING THROTTLE.pclr
  18. I've attached 2 logs, both of them are with exactly the same settings as before where my PIDs are good and my SUB and MAIN tracking is as close as i can get it. First log; if i move through the pedal position quickly, the log doesn't seem to fault until i hold the pedal in a specific spot or move slowly through pedal travel Second log; Holding the pedal straight to a specific point, then fault a second or two once in that position Fault 77 appears I still guess it's due to my SUB and MAIN not being within a tolerance of each other e throtte ON fault.llg e throttle ON fault2.llg
  19. attached is a log with all settings the same as previous where my sub and main tracking is almost perfect, but with the frequency changed to 500hz and my sub 100% set to 100% Still faults 76 or 77 e throttle 100%.llg
  20. Changed aux 9 frequency to 500hz, retuned my pid, just had to drop proportional gain to stop flutter. I've entered the values that CJ suggested, still comes up with fault 76 or 77 tracking error. I have attached a log with all parameters added now, apologies for that before 3uz e throttle map.pclr e throttle new pids.llg
  21. So, another 2 hours trying to get the e throttle to work but with no success. I managed to get the values close enough that it would then pass auto calibration, but will still get a tracking error fault 76 shut the e throtte down when i turn it ON. I have attached 2 logs with all parameters added. First one is in setup mode with the values as close as i can possibly get them, graph curves seem smooth and sub and main are tracking each other almost perfectly. 2nd log is when the e throttle is turned ON. After a few seconds it shuts down and fault 76 occurs I'm half tempted to just go manual throttle at this rate, a new throttle position sensor wont be cheap and i can't see it being the fix and the sub and main are reading perfectly. If there were imperfections in the sub and main signals then maybe, but seems as they are so consistant and smooth i'm doubtful. I've also attached my map so you can see how far i've had to reduce my PID's to get the throttle to stop fluttering Regards 3uz full parameter log.llg E throttle fault.llg 3uz throttle tracking map.pclr
  22. The log that was jumpy was with default settings for throttle setup, and CJ's suggested parameters for throttle position sensor. I kept CJ's settings and just adjusted the PIDs. The only way i could get the throttle to stop jumping around is by reducing the PIDs right down. I will take another log with my settings as i have them now, with a smooth throttle operation and sub and main almost perfectly copying each other and will add all as you suggested and re-attach. This engine has only covered 42k so id be suprised if the throttle position sensor has worn out after such little mileage. It seems to me that now all i need to do is fine tune the sub and main to match closer. Currently when main is around 42% for example, sub is around 40%, so i presume this gap between them is too big and causing my trackig error fault Thanks for your help
  23. Evening guys So i tried the values CJ supplied and still no success. With those values the main and sub scale looks correct but the throttle valve fluctuates rapidly. I have attached a log of that here. I spent over an hour changing settings to try and rectify this. In the end the only way i could stop the throttle valve jumping around is by decreasing my throttle settings by a substancial amount, mainly proportional gain. So now i have a smooth throttle, albeit with some slight DC voltage spikes, but they are so minimal i can't really see them in the throttle blade movement, only on the logging graph. So my last issue now is fault 76 - Main and Sub tracking error. I get this when i turn my e throttle ON. I move the pedal through its travel a few times, and after approx 10 seconds i will get this fault. I presume it is because my Main and Sub aren't tracking each other close enough, but i've spent so long getting them as perfect as i can i'm not sure what else to do at this point. In setup mode the pedal and valve works perfectly and i can watch the sub and main near enough draw a perfect line over each other from 0% to 100% on the graph, but its clearly not close enough. And the auto calibration still fails also. Any other suggestions? e throttle jumpy.llg
  24. Ah yes sorry i forgot to mention that on this log i pushed the throttle valve closed, that dip is from the resting position to when i pushed it closed (this is with e throttle off), and then i opened the valve fully and shut the valve to its resting position. With it resting i would say its 6-8% open. I shall try those settings tomorrow and report back. Thankyou for your time at looking into the log and your advice CJ
  25. Sorry for the late reply I have attached my current map, and also attached a log which i took manually moving the throttle (excuse the jumpyness, i tried to be as smooth as possible) with e throttle turned off so i could track MAIN and SUB. It appears the MAIN is only reaching 80% and also alot later than the SUB reaches 100%. I presume this is why i am getting my error 16 - main cannot reach 98% target. Is this a case of changing parameters? As i read that on toyota / lexus e throttle bodies that one of the sensors hits its maximum at around 70% Thanks 3UZ throttle log main.llg 3UZFE RUNNING MAP.pclr
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