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fiestacosworth

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Everything posted by fiestacosworth

  1. Hi I actually did as you suggest. And the settings are 0v low error and 5v high error. I had the computer connected with the ignition on and unplugged the TPS and it dropped to 0.02v. That’s what lead me to believe it’s either “stuck” on full throttle inside the sensor. Or it’s shorting straight to earth inside the sensor ? Only confusing thing is that on the throttle graph it shows 0.0% throttle all the time. As you can see on the log. If it was stuck at 5v surely it would be stuck at 100% throttle ?
  2. I did have a little look today and didn’t see anything obvious with the wiring. But I will have a better look when I have more time. I will also get the map up aswell
  3. Hi. Looking for some info. All was ok Cosworth YB engine TPS was fine. Not been near the car for a month or so. Now have a fault with the tp main reading 4.99v constantly ? And it doesn’t register anything when I press the accelerator I have tried calibration but makes no difference. I’m guess that the TPS is faulty ? Next the car is running extremely lumpy. I have uploaded a log. Can anyone see anything obvious? Thanks. 30 may log.llg
  4. It’s strange because the time I run it before I logged it the trigger count stayed at zero and didn’t go up. Then the time I logged it it turned over a bit error count went up then it started.
  5. Map sensor is built into the ecu. Monsoon ecu. And it’s plumbed from the plenum straight to the ecu. I set up log and seletced select all.. I thought that would have put everything in. Will have to do another one tomorrow now.
  6. Ok so removed a tooth from a spare dizzy I had and fitted it to try the way you guys are saying. I also sorted the charging issue. Although I forgot to hook it up for the log!! DOHH!! However still reading 12.5v etc. So logged it and it runs very lumpy and then for no reason on its own just went really lean and cut out please see the attached log and advise. Thanks! new log fiesta cosworth.llg
  7. Thanks for the replies. I will remove one of the teeth on the phase. I will turn the engine over by hand until the gap on the crank pulley is lined up with the sensor and then remove the phase tooth that is furthest away from the phase sensor ? Or just remove either one ? Is that correct ? And will also sort the changing issue out too and then perform another log and see how it goes.
  8. So that would explain the misfire/spit I get every 3 - 5 seconds on idle ? Ok so either put the standard pulley back on the crank. Or chop a tooth off the phase? Anything else you can see in my log and map that might be messing things up simon ? And any idea why my lambda is cutting out like that ?
  9. I spoke to Clint at bhp and he said just set the triggers to ford duratec as that uses a 36-1 trigger and 2 point cam ? Rather than using the rs500 triggers. I tried this and it run better. Not sure what’s best
  10. Thanks for the responses. My phase still has original 2 teeth on it. Nobody told me I had to remove a tooth. If so what tooth do I need to remove ? Is this why the rpm is all over the place ? And why the trigger count jumps up when I rev it ? I know it’s running rich. Can smell it and have leaned it up but it jumps all over the place. I also forgot to mention the alternator stopped charging. I know this won’t help at all. I did have a batt charger hooked up when I logged it. But voltage too low. And I guess this is why the lambda voltage fault is coming up ? Link monsoon doesn’t support trigger scope ? Apparently that’s what it says when I click on it ? I had no idea that the phase trigger needed modifiying tho. Any more info on this ? Thanks
  11. Hi Keith. Thanks for the response. I had the filter set to 3 on both triggers. The trigger error count is just going up and up and up. I thought it may have been interference. But made no difference. Have checked the polarity and they are correct also. I had the loom “new loom” running on omex management. Run worse than this tho!! When swapping the loom over double checked all of that. Have also checked with a timing light and it is running at exactly what I have the timing set too. It’s strange it’s like it will run fine for a few seconds then jump all over the place making the rpm limit fault kick in. I have not tried the modelled fuelling only traditional. So can try that. Mom running a toothed belt drive kit from turbo sport that has a 36-1 trigger wheel. But if it’s that then there may be no point in running it. this is my 1st experience with aftermarket ecus. “Gave up with the omex was awful” but I am not a novice around cars. I am a vehicle technician for Audi by trade. But unless I have spent too much time with the car and am over looking something. But I am very confused. It literally runs like a bag of crap. I have checked cam timing with dti gauge and that’s spot on. Don’t want to waste my time taking it too a dyno when it doesn’t even idle right. As could be something that I need to take away and repair / change before it can be mapped. Getting frustrating
  12. hi. sierra cosworth 4 cylinder engine. spec siemens deka 875cc injectors, 7.1 compression ratio, bd14 cams inlet and exhaust, link monsoon ecu. t35 turbo, mac boost valve. all original ford sensors. Honda k20 coil on plug coils. 36-1 trigger wheel and standard cosworth phase sensor. car starts and runs. runs very bad. lumpy etc . and lambda keeps cutting out when trying to auto tune as soon as you touch the accelerator. I have attached a log file of the car running and also with a small amount of throttle. and I have also attached the base map. if someone could give me a point in the right direction that would be great! need this car drivable "in and out the garage" asap!! thanks. any more info needed please ask. fiesta cosworth log.llg fiesta cosworth base map.pclr
  13. Hi everyone. Running a monsoon ecu on a Cosworth YB engine. Running coil on plugs using type r k20 coils. Question is do I need to use a suppressor or not ? The starts and runs hasn’t been mapped yet but runs ok. However there is a slight misfire that’s there. If so where can I get a suppressor for it ? Based in London / Kent. Thanks
  14. Ok just went into pclink and it was set to rising.!!! £150 down the pan! How annoying. This was the initial setting the ecu was set to so the damage was done on Saturday when I 1st had the ignition on. Hence why it run like crap they was already burnt out! Live you and you learn I guess. Least I know what caused it now. If I send you my spec would you be able to send me over a base map so I can get it running to take it and get it mapped ?
  15. Hi. I have checked as we said. Resistance is good. On all 4 ecu trigger is sending 7v to all 4 coils constantly with ignition on. Is that a setting in the ecu ? Or is that a fault ecu ?
  16. Also before I fitted this. I was running wasted spark on omex. And I never had any problems with The coilpack over heating or melting! Point being surely it can’t be a high resistance earth fault if the fault never occurred before. And the chassis / engine earths haven’t changed. Apart from the earths run from my monsoon.
  17. Hi mate. Yes had it set to falling as per the other post I have on here that you replied too. Was doing initial setup just going thru everything. No firmware being run at that time. Literally sitting with ignition on and connected to PCLink. I have them wired as per the diagram ignition coils running from there own fused relay pin 3 Earth going to cylinder head pin 2 and pin 1 going back to ecu for each coil. They worked when I tested them on PCLink could here them clicking when testing. And vehicle started and run! No external igniters. These coils are defiantly 12v and not 5 ? Then on Sunday morning went back down to check a few things. Turned the ignition on and about 5 mins later could smell burning! And that was the result. I’m so confused as to what could of caused this! Faulty coils ? 1 I could get. But for all 4 to be faulty is unlikely. They was brand new. PCLink throws up no faults. Wrong spark plugs ? “Original Cosworth ones” causing too much resistance ? I am confused as if this had happened with the engine running it could be because of dwell settings etc right ? But it was off with just Ignition on ? I have bought another set of coils. But don’t want to plug them in invade it does the same again.
  18. thanks for the responses. thats how i had mine set just wanted to confirm the data. i am very very confused tho. as i have just fitted x4 brand new k20 coils. i have copied the wiring from a k20 wiring diagram. pin 1 ecu pin 2 earth pin 3 +12v . pin 1 being the pin closest to the clip side of the plug. i have run ignition test and all 4 coils click. the car started and run also. went back down to the car today to check some stuff. had ignition on engine off as was checking some stuff and could smell burning. checked coils and all 4 coils have completely melted! i am confused as i have copied the wiring from others that are running these coils. what can cause this ? as I'm lost and very annoyed as thats £150 down the pan!! any help to get this sorted would be much appreciated. at a complete loss here!
  19. Thanks for that response! I’m very very confused and annoyed!!! This is exactly how I have my coils wired as. And 1 ecu 2 earth 3 +12v 100% the same as in the link. I run an ignition test in PCLink and the coils click away. Car starts runs like crap. However the coils brand new!! Have all burnt out!! Completely burn out melted! What’s that all about ? Also what’s even more annoying is every time I try to login to this forum I have to rest my password! Driving me mad.
  20. i know this was posted a very long time ago. but hope someone help. can anyone confirm if these coils need a rising or falling edge ? also was the 4.0ms dwell angle correct for these coils. ? also is it normal for them to get EXTREAMLY HOT ?? thanks
  21. hmm this is really strange then. i have one side connected to aux 3. the other connected to switched live. with ignition on ecu is giving idle valve 12v the other side is also 12v as ignition is on. i switch the ignition off and the valve is back feeding 12v back to switch live wire and in turn powering up the ecu... i have removed the valved and tested it and with a switched earth the valve is working.
  22. can somebody help please! sierra cosworth 2 pin idle control solenoid live one side connected to +12v and the other side connected to ecu Aux 3 output. idle control turned on! when I turn the ignition off the valve is back feeding 12v turning the ecu back on. I have read about flywheeling diode etc. however just to confirm. am I using the correct aux output ? or should I be using a specific one ? if so can I just run the icv directly to a separate relay with a flywheeling diode built in ? help please!
  23. Hi. Can anybody confirm for me the pin layout. With an imagine as nothing is written on my coils! For Delphi GN10370 attempting 1st start are the AI1 - AI4 on the bottom of the aux tab on configuration screen suppose to be on ? As they say off. Thanks link monsoon on a Cosworth YB engine running direct spark. Injectors are working fine. I removed a coil and fitted a plug in the end. No spark. Thanks
  24. perfect! thanks for the help so quickly. how to i go about you guys sending me a base map ? or does link not work like that ?
  25. thanks for that. very helpful! is that info specific to siemens deka 83lb "875cc" injectors or is the info generic. thanks again
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