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About tiago

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  • Birthday 01/15/1985

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  1. Hey guys, after less than a year the o2 sensor that came with the AEM 40-4110 stopped to work properly. Doing some research I discovered that most likely it was because I had it wired on the ignition on and when the car is not running the sensor heater was always on and it could shorter the sensor lifetime. To avoid this problem on the future I found 2 options: 1) Using the Link Can that has the power to manager it; 2) Wiring a relay on a GP Output to power the sensor only after the engine is running; I ended picking the AEM X 30-0300 to use it over can. The choice of the AEM X ins
  2. There's no way to use the 3 pins sensor with the V5-6 throttle body. The best way to do it would be swapping the entire intake with throttle body, fuel rails, fuel injectors and everything else. I just did it and it's not a simple job. I also changed the coils to the coil on wire instead of the coil pack. Will require some rewiring. Basically what I did: On the ECU B134 connector, swap: B134-14 to B134-4 B134-15 to B134-13 Config Ign 3 and 4 => Ignition 3 and 4 Aux 7 => Fan Relay 1 Aux 8 => Fan Relay 2 Aux 5 => ISC Wiring: Ign 1, 2, 3 and 4 wired t
  3. I'm using the V7 base map. For sure my fuel table needs work. Will try to drive to the shop and have an experienced tuner take a look on that. Thanks for the help!
  4. Thanks @remski2 you were correct. My ECT and TPS had a bad ground. Fixed it and now is way better. Looking at the last log I noticed that the MAP is reading ~5psi at idle. Is it correct? I'm asking because I changed the map from the 3bar Link to the OEM one. @Adamw after a while the lambda started to work. Not sure if it could affect but the car was parked for several months. After the engine warmup it looks like that the wideband was working properly. The last log: https://www.dropbox.com/s/lyvn97d0x3ofuov/Log 2020-02-27 7%3B40%3B25 pm.llg?dl=0
  5. Hi Adamw, I noted that the ISC was set to be opened 100% at all time. After adjusting it the idle is way better but now it's reading very lean when the rpm goes up. Tried to increase the master fuel but did not help. Log https://www.dropbox.com/s/80jup0dlbn83dai/Log 2020-02-23 6%3B28%3B20 pm.llg?dl=0 Subaru 99 Type RA - New Intake.pclr
  6. I did the tests and found that 2 cylinders was wrong. Changed the wires and now it's way better. The idle is pretty high tho. Probably because of the new bigger injectors. I played a little with the main fuel value but was not able to get a significant result. Next goal is to make the car driveable to be able to drive to the dyno. Last Log: (too big to attach it here) https://www.dropbox.com/s/yqacslelb48zcno/Log 2020-02-20 7%3B10%3B32 pm.llg?dl=0
  7. Thank you Simon, it worked!!! The engine started but looks like some cylinder is not working properly. If I give some gas the rpm is not going up easily. Since the coils wiring is new, what would be the best way to test if everything is working properly? Can I check the ignition status from the logs? Or best way to confirm it is to removing the coils and checking for the spark.
  8. Hi all, just finish an intake swap on my 1999 Sti and I'm trying the first start. I'm using the 2005 intake and the major differences are the ISC Solenoid, fuel injectors (sti top feed pink) and the individual coils. Did a try today but no success. I'm seeing a log or Trigger Errors, not sure if it could be my problem or would be something else. What I did was merge my current configuration with the Subaru V7 Base map. I thought that changing the fuel injector and coil configuration would be enough to start the engine with the new mods. Any clue?
  9. Based on the base map for the Subaru V7 it's using only one Aux for the ISC. Did some research and looks like the 3 wires Subaru ISC work like a 2 wire valve. Take a look: Correct, I'm using the newest model that has the throttle body combined with ISC and MAP.
  10. At the time that I did the video the all the intake wires was disconnected (the 2 big connectors near the battery) it could explain the ground problem. I was more interested to test if the Link was ok and wanted to check all the wires with a multimeter before connect it again just to be safe. I'm not using the original wiring. I am using the new wiring that comes with the new intake. I opened the new wiring and removed all unnecessary connectors/wires and matched (on the 2 big connectors) all the wires with my old one. The new intake has a wiring for the map that my old one didn't that
  11. I'm doing an intake swap (intake, throttle body, fuel injection and coils) from a newest model and wired something wrong. I wired a negative from the ecu to a positive. After that the fuse blown and everything stops to work. I double checked all the new wires and now it's ok. The car will not run with the oem ecu anymore unless I swap the intake back.
  12. Did the test powering the big diode as on the picture but there's no led on. I think its dead Thanks guys, I think now the last think to do is send it back to be repaired.
  13. Hey guys, There's some way to check if the ecu is burned? Like a check with the multimeter? After a bad wiring (Subaru Sti 1999 V6) I burned a fuse (SBF n5 30A) and after that I am not able to connect to the link anymore. With all wires connected to the ECU, if I turn the key to on the rpm (on the dash) is not moving like before. After turn the key on and move back to off the dash lights start to blink like some energy was being sending (check the video link please). How can I confirm that it's burned (or something) before I send it back to for repair?
  14. Do I need to wire ign 1-4 to the respective cylinders? Like: ign 1 to cylinder #1 Ign 2 to cylinder #2 Ign 2 to cylinder #3 Ign 2 to cylinder #4
  15. Hey guys, I decided to swap my intake manifold from a sti V6 to a V7 to get ride of the ISC stepper and also I removed the coil pack to use Direct Spark. What would be the best approach to wire the coils? Use the loom Ignition Drive 7 and 8 + the current Ignition Drive 1 and 2. Or Could I use Aux 7 and 8 for the coil since I'm not going to use it anymore? Or better rewire the Engine Fan to use Ignition Drive 1, 2, 3 and 4 on the coils and move Aux 7 and 8 for the fans? Any other tip or advice on that?
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