tiago

Thank you for the replay @Adamw. Checking my Link board, I can see printed on it V1.3 and a sticker showing PCB REV V1.5. I am assuming I do have the 1.3 board. Since I will not run the MAF plus a bunch of other oem stuff, I ended up with this configuration. The red rows are things I will not be using. I will be adding IAT and MAP later, just trying to figure out the basic oem stuff first. I have a couple of questions: For sensor ground (Injectors, Temperature, TPS, etc) can I use any Link ground like the pins: B134-17, B136-17, B136-18 Do the crank and camshaft pins look fine to you? Do you have any other input or tips? OEM ECU Subaru Impreza 1999 RS Subaru V5-6 WRX/STi - Link G4+ Pin Function Pin Function B135-1 Crank Position Sensor Signal + B136-5 Trig 1 / Trig 2 via dip switch B135-8 Signal - B136-24 Ground (Signal) B135-10 Shield B136-23 Ground (triggers) B135-2 Camshaft Position Sensor Signal + B136-6 Trig 2 / Trig 1 via dip switch B135-9 Signal - B136-30 Ground (Signal) B135-10 Shield B136-23 Ground (triggers) B136-5 Mass Airflow Sensor Signal B136-15 Power B136-25 Shield B136-8 GND B136-17 Throttle Position Sensor Signal B136-20 An Volt 3 TPS (Main) B136-15 Power B136-12 5v Out B136-16 GND (sensor) B136-17 Ground B136-7 Front O2 Signal (+) B136-20 Signal (-) B136-23 Shield B136-18 Rear O2 Signal B136-24 Shield B136-16 GND (sensor) B134-22 Front O2 heater Signal 1 B134-23 Signal 2 B134-21 Rear O2 heater B136-14 Coolant Temp Sensor Signal B136-28 An Temp 1 ECT B136-16 GND (sensor) B134-17 Ground B135-24 Vehicle Speed Signal B135-26 DI 3 Vehicle Speed B135-28 Starter Switch B135-2 DI 1 Start Signal B135-27 A/C Switch B135-11 DI 6 A/C In B135-7 Ignition Switch B136-25 DI 4 Ignition Switch B135-26 Neutral Position Switch (MT) B135-26 Neutral Position Switch (AT) B135-14 Test Mode Connector B136-4 Knock Sensor Signal B136-26 Knock 1 Knock sensor signal B136-25 Shield B136-29 Ground (Knock Shield) B135-25 AT/MT Identific B136-9 Backup Power Sup B136-32 Injector 6 (Aux) ECU Hold Power B136-1 Control Unit Power Supply B136-8 14V Main Relay ECU Power B136-2 B136-9 14V Main Relay ECU Power B136-15 Sensor Power Supply B136-12 5v Out B135-20 Line end check 1 B134-25 Ignition Control #1, #2 B134-7 Ignition 1 Ignition 1 B134-26 #3, #4 B134-16 Ignition 2 Ignition 2 B134-4 Fuel Injectors #1 B134-31 Injection 1 Injection 1 B134-13 #2 B134-32 Injection 2 Injection 2 B134-14 #3 B134-25 Injection 3 Injection 3 B134-15 #4 B134-18 Injection 4 Injection 4 B134-5 Idle Air Control Signal 1 B134-5 Aux 5 Idle Stepper Motor B134-6 Signal 2 B134-6 Aux 6 Idle Stepper Motor B134-19 Signal 3 B134-14 Aux 7 Idle Stepper Motor B134-29 Signal 4 B134-15 Aux 8 Idle Stepper Motor B136-2 Power Supply B136-12 5v Out B134-16 Fuel Pump Relay B134-1 Aux 1 Fuel Pump Relay B134-17 A/C Relay Control B134-22 Aux 3 A/C Out B134-3 Rad Fan Relay 1 B134-4 Aux – Ign 3 Fan Relay 1 B134-2 Rad Fan Relay 2 B134-13 Aux – Ign 4 Fan Relay 2 B135-19 Self Shutoff Control B134-11 Check Engine Light B134-28 Aux – Inj 5 CE Light B134-30 Engine Speed Output B135-14 Aux 4 Tacho B135-16 Torque Control 1 Signal B135-17 Torque Control 2 Signal B134-31 Torque control cut signal B136-11 MAF Signal for AT B134-2 Purge Control Valve B135-13 Power steering switch B135-1 DI 2 Power Steering Signal B136-29 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor Signal B136-15 Power B136-16 GND (sensor) B134-9 Pressure source switching valve B136-26 Fuel temperature sensor B136-27 Fuel level sensor B136-12 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Signal B136-15 Power Supply B136-16 GND (sensor) B134-1 Fuel Tank Pressure Control Valve B134-10 Drain Valve B135-4 AT Diagnostic Input Signal B135-21 Line end check 2 B136-16 GND (Sensors) B134-17 Ground B134-7 GND (Injectors) B134-17 Ground B134-27 GND (ignition system) B136-31 Ground (MAF) B134-8 GND (Power Supply) B136-18 Ground B136-21 GND (Control Systems) B134-8 Ground B136-22 B134-9 Ground B134-35 GND (O2 heater 1) B134-34 GND (O2 heater 2) I also have this editable file, if you prefer take a look at the editable spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uAMqdqBd-K18KtJRfYD8YoncJ6ZWb2UfyDar15K4iGw/edit?usp=sharing

Hi, I have a Subaru Sti that is having the engine rebuilt and while it's not done I am planning to use the Link G4+ that I already have, to run my other Impreza 1999 non-turbo. I already have the connector to create a jumper harness and be able to use it as a plug-and-play unit. I am trying to figure out the Link G4+ pinout, can someone help with it? I realized that the G4X manual was updated and now it includes all the pins. I need something similar for the G4+. Subaru V5-6 WRX/STi - Link G4+ Pin Link ECU Function B134-1 Aux 1 Fuel Pump Relay B134-2 B134-3 B134-4 Aux – Ign 3 Fan Relay 1 B134-5 Aux 6 Idle Stepper Motor B134-6 Aux 5 Idle Stepper Motor B134-7 Ignition 1 Ignition 1 B134-8 B134-9 B134-10 B134-11 B134-12 B134-13 Aux – Ign 4 Fan Relay 2 B134-14 Aux 7 Idle Stepper Motor B134-15 Aux 8 Idle Stepper Motor B134-16 Ignition 2 Ignition 2 B134-17 B134-18 Injection 4 Injection 4 B134-19 Aux 2 Wastegate Solenoid B134-20 B134-21 Aux 1 Not Used B134-22 Aux 3 A/C Out B134-23 B134-24 B134-25 Injection 3 Injection 3 B134-26 B134-27 B134-28 Aux – Inj 5 CE Light B134-29 B134-30 B134-31 Injection 1 Injection 1 B134-32 Injection 2 Injection 2 B135-1 DI 2 Pow er Steer Signal B135-2 DI 1 Start Signal B135-3 B135-4 B135-5 B135-6 B135-7 B135-8 B135-9 B135-10 B135-11 DI 6 A/C In B135-12 B135-13 B135-14 Aux 4 Tacho B135-15 B135-16 B135-17 B135-18 B135-19 B135-20 B135-21 B135-22 B135-23 B135-24 B135-25 B135-26 DI 3 Vehicle Speed B135-27 B135-28 B135-29 B135-30 B135-31 B135-32 B136-1 An Volt 2 AFM Signal B136-2 B136-3 B136-4 B136-5 B136-6 B136-7 An Volt 1 Factory MAP Sensor B136-8 Aux - Inj 6 14V Main Relay B136-9 B136-10 B136-11 B136-12 B136-13 B136-14 B136-15 B136-16 B136-17 Ground B136-18 B136-19 An Temp 3 (V1.1 PCB ONLY) B136-20 An Volt 3 TPS (Main) B136-21 An Volt 4 Oxygen Sensor Signal B136-22 B136-23 B136-24 B136-25 DI 4 Ignition Sw itch B136-26 Knock 1 Knock sensor signal B136-27 B136-28 An Temp 1 ECT B136-29 B136-30 B136-31 B136-32 B136-33

Hey guys, after less than a year the o2 sensor that came with the AEM 40-4110 stopped to work properly. Doing some research I discovered that most likely it was because I had it wired on the ignition on and when the car is not running the sensor heater was always on and it could shorter the sensor lifetime. To avoid this problem on the future I found 2 options: 1) Using the Link Can that has the power to manager it; 2) Wiring a relay on a GP Output to power the sensor only after the engine is running; I ended picking the AEM X 30-0300 to use it over can. The choice of the AEM X instead of the Link CAN is due the price (Link is almost 2 times more expensive in my region) + couple of weeks until it arrives here. I found a bunch of information about it but in many different posts, so decided to centralize here. AEM X 30-0300 Wiring Relay Wiring to Link Aux Output GP Output Config Questions: 1) Do I need to twist the CAN Wires from Link to AEM X 30-0300? 2) GP Output: Is the RPM > 1 condition the best strategy for this application?

There's no way to use the 3 pins sensor with the V5-6 throttle body. The best way to do it would be swapping the entire intake with throttle body, fuel rails, fuel injectors and everything else. I just did it and it's not a simple job. I also changed the coils to the coil on wire instead of the coil pack. Will require some rewiring. Basically what I did: On the ECU B134 connector, swap: B134-14 to B134-4 B134-15 to B134-13 Config Ign 3 and 4 => Ignition 3 and 4 Aux 7 => Fan Relay 1 Aux 8 => Fan Relay 2 Aux 5 => ISC Wiring: Ign 1, 2, 3 and 4 wired to the coils ISC Signal to Aux 5 wire throttle body map to the oem map wires Beside that you will need a longer intercooler hose and some trim on the bottom part of the water reservoir to be able to attach on the same place.

I'm using the V7 base map. For sure my fuel table needs work. Will try to drive to the shop and have an experienced tuner take a look on that. Thanks for the help!

Thanks @remski2 you were correct. My ECT and TPS had a bad ground. Fixed it and now is way better. Looking at the last log I noticed that the MAP is reading ~5psi at idle. Is it correct? I'm asking because I changed the map from the 3bar Link to the OEM one. @Adamw after a while the lambda started to work. Not sure if it could affect but the car was parked for several months. After the engine warmup it looks like that the wideband was working properly. The last log: https://www.dropbox.com/s/lyvn97d0x3ofuov/Log 2020-02-27 7%3B40%3B25 pm.llg?dl=0

Hi Adamw, I noted that the ISC was set to be opened 100% at all time. After adjusting it the idle is way better but now it's reading very lean when the rpm goes up. Tried to increase the master fuel but did not help. Log https://www.dropbox.com/s/80jup0dlbn83dai/Log 2020-02-23 6%3B28%3B20 pm.llg?dl=0 Subaru 99 Type RA - New Intake.pclr

I did the tests and found that 2 cylinders was wrong. Changed the wires and now it's way better. The idle is pretty high tho. Probably because of the new bigger injectors. I played a little with the main fuel value but was not able to get a significant result. Next goal is to make the car driveable to be able to drive to the dyno. Last Log: (too big to attach it here) https://www.dropbox.com/s/yqacslelb48zcno/Log 2020-02-20 7%3B10%3B32 pm.llg?dl=0

Thank you Simon, it worked!!! The engine started but looks like some cylinder is not working properly. If I give some gas the rpm is not going up easily. Since the coils wiring is new, what would be the best way to test if everything is working properly? Can I check the ignition status from the logs? Or best way to confirm it is to removing the coils and checking for the spark.

Hi all, just finish an intake swap on my 1999 Sti and I'm trying the first start. I'm using the 2005 intake and the major differences are the ISC Solenoid, fuel injectors (sti top feed pink) and the individual coils. Did a try today but no success. I'm seeing a log or Trigger Errors, not sure if it could be my problem or would be something else. What I did was merge my current configuration with the Subaru V7 Base map. I thought that changing the fuel injector and coil configuration would be enough to start the engine with the new mods. Any clue? Log 2020-02-17 2;09;37 pm - 5.llg Subaru 99 Type RA - New Intake.pclr

Based on the base map for the Subaru V7 it's using only one Aux for the ISC. Did some research and looks like the 3 wires Subaru ISC work like a 2 wire valve. Take a look: Correct, I'm using the newest model that has the throttle body combined with ISC and MAP.

At the time that I did the video the all the intake wires was disconnected (the 2 big connectors near the battery) it could explain the ground problem. I was more interested to test if the Link was ok and wanted to check all the wires with a multimeter before connect it again just to be safe. I'm not using the original wiring. I am using the new wiring that comes with the new intake. I opened the new wiring and removed all unnecessary connectors/wires and matched (on the 2 big connectors) all the wires with my old one. The new intake has a wiring for the map that my old one didn't that I will use. Also the TPS and idle control valve is different. The new ICV has 3 wires and the old one 6. So I will free up aux (5, 6, 7 and 8) by using the new ICV. Aux 5 - will be used on the new MAP Aux 6 - For the ICV Aux 7 and 8 for the Fan Relay 1 and 2 And the Aux - Ign 3 and Ign 4 (that was used by the Fan Relay 1 and 2) will be used for the coils to be able to use Direct Spark. As you said the pinouts is very different and that was my error (shame on me). I did a try using the new intake wires before check everything and on that moment that the fuse blown and the link stopped to work.

I'm doing an intake swap (intake, throttle body, fuel injection and coils) from a newest model and wired something wrong. I wired a negative from the ecu to a positive. After that the fuse blown and everything stops to work. I double checked all the new wires and now it's ok. The car will not run with the oem ecu anymore unless I swap the intake back.

Did the test powering the big diode as on the picture but there's no led on. I think its dead Thanks guys, I think now the last think to do is send it back to be repaired.

Hey guys, There's some way to check if the ecu is burned? Like a check with the multimeter? After a bad wiring (Subaru Sti 1999 V6) I burned a fuse (SBF n5 30A) and after that I am not able to connect to the link anymore. With all wires connected to the ECU, if I turn the key to on the rpm (on the dash) is not moving like before. After turn the key on and move back to off the dash lights start to blink like some energy was being sending (check the video link please). How can I confirm that it's burned (or something) before I send it back to for repair? Last, check the picture, is this little "dot" on the transistors some bad indicator? Is it normal? https://youtu.be/K59v3R8092w