dan7773

I ended up taking it to a friend who installs these all the time, we ended up using +12v direct from battery and switched 12v direct from ign, and still aux 7 was dropping out. We even used a different aux output (4) but had the same issue. Found out aux4 is low side driver aswell. Ecu was just having none of it, tried turning power hold off car wouldn’t even run, but as soon( after a fair few long hours) we changed to high side setup, all worked fine. We don’t understand why this happened at the moment, but if we pernantly wired relay to a earth on pin 85 it would work as it should do, just could not get ecu to run with the setup listed in pc link. But at the moment all is ok with high side setup.

Just though I’ll add this in case anyone else has the same problems, tried changing to a spare aux port still no luck, so decided to wire relay to switch high side and at the moment all seems to be ok. Will have a proper drive over the weekend to see if any more problems arise.

I thought maybe I was suffering from a power drain being that the DBW relays at the end of the row of relays, so I took a fused 12v direct from battery and a switched 12v direct from ign, and still getting this fault, changed pins on relays still nothing, works fine when bypassed tho, went down to see another engine tuner friend and on way had hardware block failure 2/3 come up permantly, then he plugged his laptop in and in disappeared. So at the moment I’m well and truly stuck, and don’t really know where to go from here. As that wiring setup should of worked as I can’t get the feeds from anywhere better than that. Anybody got any idea’s, I’m all out.

See if this ones any better, Its set to manual on the log setup, I cleared the fault codes and engine started and ran fine then I turned ignition off 1 click left it for a few seconds and re-started the engine and fault appears straight away. if its a wiring fault wouldn't it happen straight away, its seem to happen once I cycle the ignition. Log 2018-12-21 10;45;26 am.llg

Ok, will do. Just out of the workshop for a bit, so as soon as I get back will try and get another log. Thanks I don’t mean to sound daft, but how do I go about setting the log up so I can get rid of this start/stop activation problem.

Morning, hope I have better luck this time with the log, sorry about that, must have posted wrong file. AUXFAULT.llg ETHROTTLESETUP.pclr

This is the problem, it’s not coming back as an error as such, when I try to calibrate the aps, it throws a aux 9/10 fault straight away, I’ve had the pedal tracking error that’s all sorted now. On the log it shows the ignition being on then as soon As I turn the key it runs for a few seconds then the aux 9/10 fault kicks in, I haven’t even touched the throttle pedal. I also had a hardware block 2/3 error when I repluged the ecu in after I checked the wiring. What I can’t understand is sometimes it will start and run fine then when I cyclye the ignition once then I get this fault. I will post my map up first thing in morning also would it make any difference if the firmware isnt the latest version just that I clicked the firmware button by mistake and it said that there’s a update available.

Thanks for the reply, somethings going on, I've just replaced the APS sensor and the TPS is new, I've attached a data log of what happens, the movement on the aps after the error starts is me. Log 2018-12-20 4;07;52 pm.llg

Hi all, I really could do with done help on this I can’t figure it out. I’m running a link thunder on a 2jzgte with aftermarket electronic throttle body. I originally had a sensor problem and for some reason the auto blip was turned on so it would hold the revs when changing gear, got all that sorted thought everything was fine, cycled the ignition a few times, all ok. Went to drive it yesterday and it’s throwing a aux9/10 power fault code 71/73. I’ve replaced the relay several times, sometimes the car will run & idle fine then turn it off, I go to start up again and after 2 seconds it gives my these 2 codes and goes into limp mode. If I bypass the relay it works fine but I don’t want to run it like that just down to saftey, it just seems to be losing power to the aux9/10. Ive double checked my wiring several times and can’t see where I’m going wrong. I’ve included a sketch of my wiring set up, I apologise for my lack of drawing skills in advance.

Been having problems calibrating aps sensor, as it’s a Toyota non linear I’ve set it at 70%, but I’ve gone thru 2 sensors already. When I go to calibrate it’s at 100% allready, so just to get it running I pressed pedal fully even tho it’s allready reading 100% then release. When I go to try again it works ok, it will let me press pedal and works accordingly. I’m using a Toyota sensor from a sc/ls430, I’ve pulled the wiring aprart several times, made new sections up, pins 2/5 are the signal wires, going into analog volt 7/8 respectively. I don’t really want to put my last sensor in if I’m going to kill it. I’m using the 5v input, the last sensor I used it came back saying a voltage error occurred, 300v or something which is rediculous, so somethings not happy. This is frying my brain as I can’t find what’s wrong, if I have a quite afternoon at work this week will get a data run done and post it.cheers Supra TB & DBW cables.docx

Sorry I haven't got back to you its been a hectic week, I've attached a copy of the map I'm using, will post a data log of a run in the next few days, when the weather's been a bit better for a decent run. I have also found another problem, it only does it at WOT, think I'm getting a power issue to throttle body as coming up error 73 voltage error. I can sit revving the engine to WOT no problem but when I'm driving and try it goes to limp home mode. Thanks in advance, Dan. ETHROTTLESETUP.pclr

Managed to get it to idle very nicely, went to go for a test drive, all seemed ok, went to change from 1st to 2nd, as soon as I pressed the clutch pedal the revs picked up to 2.5k stayed there for a few seconds then dropped, then from 2nd to 3rd it reved to 3.2k for a few seconds then dropped back down. Is there anything else I should looking at. The IACV is still fitted to the manifold, but with no power going to it, I thought that would be closed. Thanks, Dan

Thanks for the reply, I’ve had a little play around with the idle, I just set everything at 5% for the min. It starts and idle’s a little bit high but now I’ve got somewhere to start. thanks again, Dan

Hi All, Need some assistance, basically I fitted a whifbitz Bosch 74mm dbw to my 2JZ, been having a few problems with the setup, for some reason in the TPS callibration it would calibrate ok then when finished would jump to 50%, would only do it on open/closed loop ethrottle, after i replaced all wiring for throttle and pedal, to make sure all ok as the dbw wiring slightly different to how I set up a year ago, checked, double checked all ok. Traced problem to idle base position table, found out that it’s set to 54% for some crazy reason, now I’ve reset to 5% just to get it to idle, just cannot seem to get it right, has anyone got any settings I can try, or tell me where to start. At the moment from -30 to 130 degrees it is set at 5%. It’s a stock non vvti with sard 650 and stock hybrid turbos running a thunder. thanks ,Dan

Got it, changed from modelled to traditional fuel mode and after a lot of cranking finally fired and now ideling perfectly, I can finally get a decent nights sleep, this has been driving me mad. Had to play around with the fueling a little bit but got there. Thanks for your help people, greatly appreciated. It’s good to know that there’s lots of people on this forum that are willing to help, one of the main reasons I went for a link ecu. Was running a hks fcon before and trying to get help and info of people was a complete nightmare. Cheers, Dan