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Confused last won the day on November 13 2020

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  1. This has already been fixed, you need firmware version, which is included in the most recent PC Link download. The firmware update within the application doesn't see differences in the final set of digits in the firmware update screen, so you'll need to manually select the latter version.
  2. You're going to need to provide a little more information - your post doesn't really tell us what's going on. To help you best, you should upload a copy of your tune saved out of PCLink, plus a log file recorded by PCLink with every parameter logged, which contains the issue you are experiencing.
  3. Following on from @Adamw's comments, could you potentially set up 2 different E-Throttle target tables, the 2nd of which is activated when the clutch pedal is depressed? That said, what problem is it that you are actually trying to solve that has brought you to the conclusion that you need to do what you're asking about?
  4. Either your controller has CANBUS output, which connects to the Link's CANBUS, or it has a 0-5v analog output which connects to any spare Analog input. What make/model is your current wideband controller?
  5. You can set a non-driven wheel speed lockout - so traction control won't activate if your non-driven wheel speed is below this value. However, this might cut power as the wheel is lifting (and slowing, therefore increasing slip). I believe you may be able to use one of the positions on the trim pot and a Virtual Aux to act as a Traction Disable "switch" (in this example, I've used position 1) by switching to a 2nd Slip table. Inspiration for this idea taken from this thread - I've not actually tested this though! But otherwise, yes, I think that adding a
  6. Excellent, glad to hear it's all working The daily visits to this forum and reading every thread is finally starting to pay off!
  7. I got caught out by that when I was first setting up the ECU! I've noticed that your E-Throttle Target table has TP (Main) along the Y axis, rather than AP (Main). And do you mean to have Mass Air Flow on the X axis?
  8. Confused


    Are you looking to make tuning/configuration changes, or just display data from the ECU? If the latter, then take a look at RealDash, which can also run on Android, which will vastly open up your choices - as I don't think you'll find a single off-the-shelf unit that will run Windows.
  9. Double check that you don't have another input set up as TP (Main) - looking at the pinouts, by default AN3 is TPS, if this is still set as TP (Main), it will be picking this input up, not the one you've defined later. If it's not that, you don't *have* to do the calibration this way - you can manually move the throttle plate, and enter into the setup the min & max voltages you see.
  10. If you buy a Plug-in ECU specifically for your Subaru, it won't have an on board wideband controller. You'll want a Link CAN Lambda to go with it.
  11. The scan tool, unless it cost you hundreds or thousands, is probably only trying to connect to the engine ECU - which you've now removed. You'll need a professional scan tool which can connect to multiple systems, especially the SRS system, which in many cases will not reset by simply removing power for a few minutes. For my '98 Mitsubishi Legnum VR-4, I found that the following scan tools worked for resetting SRS issues caused by things like a broken clock spring, removing steering wheel/seats (then turning ignition on) etc, or another issue (once fixed): Mitsubishi MUT-II and
  12. Try the same test, but remove one additional relay at a time from the board, until you find out which one stops it from happening. Then, add the others back one at a time. That should narrow it down to one smaller circuit.
  13. You're going to have to help us help you, so please upload a copy of your config, plus some PC log files of every parameter. There are many people successfully running E-Throttle on Link ECUs, so it's most likely a configuration issue, but you've not yet given any details that will help anyone troubleshoot it.
  14. Yes, that's a great solution for the G4X range, but doesn't help with the G4+. The G4+ has some great Knock control, which is highly configurable via the Knock Target Table, but no easy way to inform the user that it's occurring unless you've got a laptop hooked up or looking at a log file after the fact. I think that having a "Knock > Target" parameter on an Aux Out would satisfy this nicely on the G4+.
  15. Bumping this one up, I'd really like the ability to trigger an Aux/Virtual Aux on Knock > Knock Target on the G4+. Hopefully that's a relatively simple inclusion, as I guess all of these values are in memory for the knock trim calculations anyway?
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