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Confused last won the day on April 27

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  1. I've love this change to be back-ported to the G4+ too, please!
  2. Confused

    Cold start

    For non UK people, "Tesco Momentum fuel" is 99 RON "super" unleaded, with up to 5% ethanol content.
  3. As far as I'm aware, the advice to have 0% in the top table of the E-Throttle Target table is correct for G4X, but for a G4+, this top row is where you'd have your non-zero values for idle.
  4. Not sure on the ViPEC, but in the G4+ you can set it to a 3d table to be able to adjust the axis breakpoints.
  5. I see a lot of good feedback and advice from Brands Hatch Performance both here and on Facebook.
  6. I lost an hour's worth of PC logs again at the weekend on the dyno, due to PCLink either crashing (or hitting the X in the top right corner on the touchscreen...) - if auto-saving of logs was present, then I likely still have that data to look back at - I'd stored the main fuelling changes, but it's all the other sensor data like temperatures that would have been really useful. I know you're not adding major features for the G4+ range, but this would be an amazing Quality Of Life improvement for us who aren't yet ready to re-invest in the newer generation.
  7. IMO, just spend the money now and just get the Link ones. It might mean you need to wait another pay packet, but it'll be cheaper in the long run than buying twice.
  8. You do not *need* two, but if you have two totally separate exhaust systems, then you can do per-bank monitoring and control.
  9. Unless you have a Link Fury, with an in-built lambda controller, you must use an external controller, you cannot connect the 5/6 pin sensor directly. The most complete solution is the Link CAN Lambda module, as this has two-way communication with the ECU, and will implement strategies to try to prolong sensor life, such as waiting until after the engine has started running before powering the sensor up (to minimise the risk of thermal shock), and perform exhaust pressure compensation (assuming a suitable pressure sensor is also installed into the exhaust, and connected to the ECU) and reporting any sensor/controller errors. The next-best option is another controller which sends data into the ECU via CANBUS. This gives you accurate fuelling feedback, as the signal remains digital from the controller to the ECU, but lacks any additional safety features. The only remaining option then would be to use a controller which has a 0-5v analog output, and use an Analog Input on the ECU. This can suffer from "voltage offset" issues, where the wideband controller thinks it is putting out a certain voltage, but the ECU reads a slightly different voltage, and you get a minor fuelling inaccuracy. If I were starting again, I would buy the Link CAN Lambda module straight away.
  10. I use one of these in my Anglia, I'm running a chargecooler, I use the below settings.
  11. I had similar when plugging in external monitor - the resolution change crashes PC Link. I have to be very careful pick up the right lead when the battery is low, to only plug in the charger, not the USB-C dock, and make sure I've got no un-saved logs!
  12. Whilst the Link itself can't control the transmission, I believe that box is supported out of the box on the HTG GCU, and the two ECUs can communicate with each other.
  13. Given the number of DI's needed for Cruise, I'd strongly suggest getting hold of a stalk which requires only a single Analog input. I got one from a Lexus IS200, but plenty of other manufacturers have them. Or - if you want to stick with your momentary buttons, you could create a resistor ladder with your momentary switches, and feed this into an Analog input.
  14. There's already an option for this, available in your Account Settings, under the "Followed Content" section: https://forums.linkecu.com/notifications/options/
  15. From what I can understand, it depends mostly on what injectors you have, and whether you have all the necessary correct data - deadtimes, flow rate, short pulse width adder etc. If you have all the data, then Modelled Mode would be a sensible choice, especially if you're going for various blends of ethanol. If you don't have accurate injector data, then Traditional might be easier.
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