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Confused

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Confused last won the day on April 16

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  1. If you want to change from wasted spark with 2 coils to to sequential ignition with 4 coils, then you must use Ignition drivers 1-4. These are wired to Cylinders 1-4 in cylinder order. (AI1 to cylinder 1, AI2 to cylinder 2, AI3 to cylinder 3, AI4 to cylinder 4). Therefore, you will need to re-wire what is currently using IA3 and IA4 to outputs which are currently free - ie IA6, IA7 or AI8. If you want to stick with wasted spark, then you only set AI1 and AI2 to Ignition, and set the spark mode to Wasted, and it will deal with it accordingly. This frees up AI6 and AI7 for other
  2. You should certainly make yourself familiar with how PCLink works, the forums here can provide you a lot of support and assistance, and will save you having to go back to a tuner every time you want to make a minor change! I would also make sure that you tell the tuner up front that you want full access to the ECU's configuration/tune when they have completed their work and you do not want it locked - if they are unwilling to to do so, then respectfully tell them to cancel your appointment, and that you'll go elsewhere!
  3. All of these are possible. I suggest you download and install PCLink (if you've not done so already), open it up, open an Evo base map, then also open the Help file, and start looking at the options and the help file. The Help file provided with these ECUs is the best sets of documentation I've ever seen - not only does it tell you how the software works, but also gives you help and advice on tuning, engine electrical systems and ECUs in general.
  4. The "brains" (or "top board") are identical between them, essentially being an Xtreme, but the differences (and limitations) come with what is made available by the "bottom board" (which has the car-specific connector plugs). The most obvious differences I can think of off the top of my head is that the 1-3 has the "ECU Hold Power" circuitry hooked into Ign4, so you can't go fully sequential on ignition. There's no E-Throttle pins available (on the newer revisions of the bottom board on the 4-8 they're exposed via one of the Expansion connectors). You'll have to compare the pinouts
  5. I think I might have found an issue... I think your E-Throttle Target Table should have "APS (Main)" on the Y axis, not "TPS (Main)"
  6. You haven't confirmed if you've tried loading the config from Adam's last post - as you've not posted the log file from that test that he's asked for.
  7. There's an example of hysteresis using a GP Output in the Help File, under this section: "G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Auxiliary Outputs > General Purpose Output" The Help file is VERY good! I've found answers to most of my questions in there! So, assuming you've got An V3 as your pressure sensor input, I think the values you'll be wanting are something like this (not tested, but interpreting the help file, and I think you'll have to use an Aux out, not an Injector output): Switch Logic = Cond (1 AND 2) OR 3 SW Cond1 = An V3 < Sw Value1 = 650 kpa
  8. if that's what it was, then based on Vaughan's post it's not a fault, it's a user configurable output based on a set of conditions, that just so happens to be configured to turn on the output that the CEL is also connected to - doubling up the usage of that physical output to denote multiple things.
  9. I found exactly the same - I came from a piggyback ECU, which I'd spent a lot of time (and money) tuning, and it was kinda OK, but the first drive on the Link was mind-boggingly better! With the excellent logging and Mixture Map feature, I've got it dialled in even better with a few iterations. I'll still be visiting a dyno, but hopefully it'll just be a small tidy up and to try to hit a few load cells I've not hit on the road.
  10. MOT emissions test for your vehicle is likely to be at most a basic Cat test - it'll be checking for stoich at idle and free revving at ~2500rpm, and less than 200ppm H/C. You might be lucky and not even need the basic cat test, in which case it's basically a visible smoke test, so again, roughly stoich at 2500 will be fine - the Link ECU can definitely do that, plus cruising, plus power from a single tune.
  11. Link's own CAN-Lambda would be the obvious choice. It'll give you accurate fuelling via CANBUS directly into the ECU, without the possibilities of analogue voltage offsets between the two units, plus it employs strategies to prolong sensor life, such as only powering up the sensor once the engine is running. Installation should be very straightforward, it requires only 4 wires - power, ground, plus 2x CANBUS wires.
  12. In some ECUs, like my Evo 1-3, it's used to initially power the ECU on, before the ECU Hold Power output takes over and switches the main engine control relay on. Once it goes off, it starts the shut-down hold power timer, to reset idle speed stepper motors, for example, so that it's ready to go for cold start next time you turn the power on.
  13. Firstly... F3 is "Connect/Disconnect"! F2 is "Save to file", Ctrl+S is Store.
  14. You need to disconnect the first, and only have the 2nd connected. You can then go into the CANBUS setup, and modify this to be Lambda 2. Then you can plug the first back in. Out of the box, they are all set up for use singularly, as Lambda 1.
  15. If you look on the left side of the bottom board, it should say exactly what it's for!
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